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the  Internet  Archive 

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FASH  ION. 


FASHION: 


JhE    pOWER    THAT    |nFLU£NCE?    THE  ¥/oRLD. 


THE  PHILOSOPHY 

OF 

Ancient  and  Modern  Dress  and  Fashion, 

BY 

GrEORG-E    P.  FOX. 


REVISED     AND  ENLARGED. 

Series  A.  D.  1850,  1860,  1872.-Third  Edition. 


THE  TRADE  SUPPLIED  BY 

The  American  News  Company,  115  to  121  Nassau  Street,  N.  Y. 

SHELDON   &  CO., 
677  BROADWAY,  UNDER  GRAND  CENTRAL  HOTEL, 

NEW  YORK. 


Tiiubner  &  Co.,  60  Paternoster  Row, 

LONDON. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 
By  GEORGE  P.  FOX, 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


LANGE  &  HILLMAN,  PRINTERS  AND  STEHEOTYPERS. 
108, 110,  112  &  114  Wooeter  St.,  N.  Y. 


Jo  THE 

GOVERNMENT 

AND  THE 

GALLANT  PEOPLE 

OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES. 


* 


CONTENTS. 


Pagk 

Dedication   ix 

Preface  xvii 

Introduction  xx 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Philosophy  of  Modern  Dress  and  Fashion  ...  17 

CHAPTER  II. 
Dress — lyth  to  igth  Century  24 

CHAPTER  III. 

Suggestions  on  the  Diplomatic  Dress  of  U.  S.  Minis- 
ters, Secretaries  of  Legation,  and  Consuls  to 
Foreign  Governments  37 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Etiquette  in  Dress  and  Fashion  42 


xii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Page 

The  Dressing  Gown  and  Lounging  Jacket    ....  44 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Morning  Dress  45 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Riding  Dress   48 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Hunting  Dress  50 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Dinner  Dress  51 

CHAPTER  X. 

Evening  Full  Dress  53 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Clerical  Dress   .  56 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Judicial  Dress   58 


CONTENTS.  Xlii 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Page 

Collegiate  Dress  .   60 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

European  and  A  merican  Wedding  Dress  61 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Liveries   .  65 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Funeral  Dress  67 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Code  of  Fashionable  Intercoitrse  69 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Dr diving-Room  Dress,  etc   80 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Bail-Room  Dress  and  Address  82 


CHAPTER  XX. 

The  Promenade  Dress,  etc.     .    .    .  . 


85 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Page 

The  Etiquette  of  Carriage  and  Equestrian  Exercises,  87 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Etiquette  of  Courtship  and  Matrimony      ...  89 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Code  of  Commercial  Intercourse  93 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

The  Relation  of  the  Buyer  and  the  Seller     .    .    .    .  ioq 


gitfifkmwfarg  germ 

Dress  and  Eashion  from  English  Authors    .    .    .  . 

107 

Dress  and  Fashion — American  Authors — Fashion  .  . 

115 

Dress  and  Fashion — American  Authors — Costume 

120 

A  Star  of  Fashion — Bath,  England,  and  Beau  Nash, 

130 

Essays  on  Dress  and  Fashion,  1790- 1868     .    .    .  . 

135 

Fashion  and  its  Leaders  

141 

CONTENTS.  XV 

Page 

Of  the  Beauty  of  Colors  145 

Form,  Expression,  Attitude  148 

Dress  and  Fashion — Lord  Chesterfield  to  his  Son,  etc.  1 59 
The  Emigrant — The  Adopted  Citizen  of  the  United 

States,  etc  179 

Correspondence  and  Notices  of  the  Press,  etc.    .  .199-254 


"  We  give  it  as  our  opinion  that  Mr.  Fox's  work  on  Dress  and 
polite  Address  will  command  an  immense  circulation,  both  here  and 
in  Europe." — New  York  Express. 

"The  author  handles  the  subject  like  an  adept  in  polite  and 
elegant  literature." — Washington  City  Correspondence. 

"  Mr.  Fox  has  given  to  the  world  an  essay  on  modern  Dress  and 
Fashion  of  transcendental  merit." — London  Saturday  Review. 

"  No  polite  gentleman,  '  par  excellence '  can  consistently  do  without 
the  information  upon  Dress  and  Address  contained  in  Mr.  Geo.  P. 
Fox's  volume." — Richmond  Enquirer. 


"I  heard  there  were  two  Presidents  m  the  East  Room, — the 
President  of  the  United  States  and  the  President  of  Fashion,  Mr. 
George  P.  Fox." 


PREFACE. 


"  Authors  are  judg'd  by  strange  capricious  rules, 
The  great  ones  are  thought  mad,  the  small  ones  fools  ; 
Yet  sure  the  best  are  most  severely  fated, 
For  fools  are  only  laugh'd  at — wits  are  hated, 
Blockheads  with  reason  men  of  sense  abhor, 
But  fool'gainst  fool  is  barb'rous  civil  war, 
Why  on  all  authors  then  should  critics  fall  ? 
Since  some  have  wit,  and  shown  no  wit  at  all." — Pope. 

In  promulgating  a  code  for  the  government  of  fashionable 
intercourse  there  must  necessarily  be,  more  or  less,  an  arbitrary 
style  in  its  preparation,  an  authoritative  diction  to  give  it  force 
and  efficacy ;  and  it  is  quite  possible  that  this  peculiarity  may 
be  noticed  in  the  following  pages.  The  author  begs  leave  to 
state,  that  in   the  preparation   of   this  work  he  has  been 


xviii  PREFACE. 

actuated  only  by  a  desire  to  impart  in  format  ion  where  it  is 
most  needed,  to  inculcate  the  necessity  of  observing  the 
requirements  of  fashionable  society  upon  those  who  know  the 
right  and  yet  the  wrong  persue,  in  many  points  of  dress  and 
etiquette ;  and  who  are  led  into  serious  mistakes  by  those 
whom  they  are  taught  to  regard  as  guides  in  their  conduct  in 
the  polite  circles  of  society. 

Among  other  missions  that  this  work  is  intended  to  perform 
may  be  mentioned  chiefly  the  two  following  :  The  improvement 
of  taste  in  general  society  and  the  offer  of  suggestions  to  those 
who  are  considered  its  leaders,  on  the  duties  which  their 
position  in  the  community  requires.  And  2d.  To  give  such 
plain  hints  to  those  about  to  enter  polite  society  that  it  will  be 
impossible  for  them  to  go  astray,  if  they  rightly  consider  and 
improve  upon  the  principles  and  philosophy  of  modern  dress. 

At  the  present  day  many  men  of  wealth  are  inclined  to  pay 
more  attention  to  the  decoration  of  their  houses  than  to  the 
proper  adornment  of  their  persons.  Thus,  while  they  gladden  the 
eye  by  beauty  of  architectural  display  and  interior  embellishment 


PREFACE.  xix 

they  nevertheless  sadden  the  hearts  of  friends  by  a  slovenly 
exhibition  in  the  poor  attire  of  their  person.  Reform  is  needed 
in  this  particular.  And  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  this  work  will 
be  mainly  instrumental  in  creating  a  more  general  desire  for 
original  taste,  not  only  in  the  adornment  of  the  house  we  dwell 
in,  but  in  an  equal  consideration  for  the  house  in  which  we 
live,  literally  speaking,  the  body. 


INTRODUCTION. 


"  My  dukedom  to  a  beggarly  denier, 
I  do  mistake  my  person  all  this  while  ; 
Upon  my  life  she  finds,  although  I  cannot, 
Myself  to  be  a  marvellous  proper  man. 
I'll  have  my  chambers  lined  with  looking-glasses, 
And  entertain  a  score  or  two  of  tailors, 
To  study  fashions  to  adorn  my  body."  —Richard  III. 


FASHION 

Fashion  is  and  has  been  and  will  be,  through  all  a*ges, 
the  outward  form  through  which  the  mind  speaks  to  the 
material  universe. 

"It  is  a  power  whieh  without  concerted  action,  without 
either  thought,  law  or  religion,  seems  stronger  than  all  of 
them." 

We  wear  forms — we  see  forms  —we  like  and  dislike  forms, 
places,  shades  and  colors.    Form  and  Fashion  go  hand  in 


INTRODUCTION.  Xxi 

hand,  links  of  the  same  harmonious  chain  creating  all  the 
outward  life  we  live. 

Fashion  in  all  languages  designs  to  make,  shape,  model, 
adapt,  embellish  and  adorn.  It  has  modelled  society  and 
shaped  Empires ;  and  has  held  in  its  scales  the  fates  of 
kingdoms  and  the  destinies  of  commonwealths.  It  has 
entered  into  the  life  of  all  nations  and  will  be  identified  in 
its  influence  with  our  fortunes  forever.  So  universal  is  its 
control  that  we  cannot  escape  from  its  all-encircling  embrace. 
Wherever  we  go,  whatever  we  do,  whatever  we  are,  Fashion 
holds  the  wand  of  power  over  us,  more  blandly,  but  not 
less  imperiously  than  the  sceptre  of  empire  was  swayed  by 
the  Caesars. 

Fashion,  then,  means  our  outward  life.  Not  merely  the 
dress  we  wear,  the  latest  dance  for  the  festive  hall,  nor  the 
style  of  carriage,  or  livery  of  the  servant.  It  decides  archi-* 
tecture,  embellishing  the  Doric,  the  Ionic,  the  Corinthian, 
and  the  Cosmopolitan,  taking  a  grander  and  higher  form  in 
the  Koman. 

In  the  Middle  Ages  it  prescribed  the  Gothic,  and  the 
matchless  structures  of  those  periods  which  now  amaze  and 


xxii  INTRODUCTION. 

delight  the  traveller,  from  the  banks  of  the  Ehine  to  the 
thousand  glittering  spires  that  shoot  into  heaven  from  that 
miracle  of  beauty,  the  Cathedral  of  Milan. 

It  dictates  law  for  the  just  and  the  unjust;  it  influences 
the  forms  of  worship,  for  it  decorates  the  panels  of  the 
Christian  Church,  as  well  as  those  of  the  synagogue,  the 
Turkish  moslem,  the  Chinese  pagoda,  and  dresses  all  priests 
and  altars. 

Fashion  presides  at  every  scene  of  life ;  from  the  cradle  to 
the  tomb  its  empire  is  unbroken.  Its  subjects  are  all  man- 
kind. 

Dress  is  only  one  of  the  countless  forms  in  which  Fashion 
asserts  her  dominion.    But  in  this  great  department  espe- 
cially, it  is  peculiarly  the  province  of  art  to  adapt  and  per- 
*  feet  form  to  nature  and  classic  taste. 

Inconsiderately  as  men  sometimes  speak  of  tailors,  no 
painter  or  sculptor  of  any  proficiency  is  ever  heard  to  dis- 
parage the  successful  efforts  of  a  good  tailor.  They  know 
that  the  drapery  on  figures  must  fall  gracefully,  and  harmo- 
nize with  the  shape  and  style  of  the  subject;  and  it  is  one 


INTRODUCTION".  Xxiii 

of  the  most  difficult  achievements  of  their  arts  to  accomplish. 
It  is  just  as  true  of  the  tailor  and  his  profession. 

In  this  respect  the  tailor  with  his  shears,  the  author  with 
his  pen,  the  sculptor  with  his  chisel,  the  painter  with  his 
pencil,  or  the  genius  that  produces  beautiful  combinations 
abridging  labor,  while  benefitting  the  laborer,  stand  on  the 
same  relative  scale,  each  desirous  of  producing  that  which 
ennobles  and  adorns  our  common  humanity. 

Probably  not  one  garment  made  in  a  hundred  is  a  perfect 
fit.  It  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  arts  in  the  world  to  dress 
a  man  perfectly.  No  matter  what  may  be  the  prevailing 
fashion  of  dress,  no  two  men  are  made  near  enough  alike  to 
be  equally  well-fitted  by  the  same  article ;  consequently  a 
ready-made  garment,  cut  for  unknown  or  unseen  figures,  is, 
according  to  the  law  of  good  taste,  an  impossibility,  and 
never  did,  nor  ever  will,  grace  the  person  of  a  gentleman  of 
acquired  taste.  A  difference  in  occupation,  stature,  form, 
attitude,  complexion,  or  even  manners,  will  decide  the  fabric 
and  color  of  the  garment  best  suited  to  each  individual  style  ; 
and  a  thousand  combinations  have  patiently  to  be  elabora- 


Xxiv  INTRODUCTION. 

ted  to  produce  that  rare  sight — a  perfectly  well-dressed  gen- 
tleman. 

If  the  author  had  not  achieved  this  point  of  eminence  in 
his  art,  he  should  regard  his  life  as  a  grievous  disappoint- 
ment to  his  professional  pride.  He,  however,  depends  not 
alone  on  his  own  assertions,  but  is  indorsed  by  the  highest 
and  noblest  in  the  land.  His  credentials  are  voluminous 
from  the  eminent  living  and  departed.  To  quote  the  words 
of  that  great  patriot  and  statesman,,  the  illustrious  Webster, 
u  I  heard  that  there  were  two  presidents  in  the  east  room, 
the  President  of  Fashion,  Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  and  the  Pres- 
ident of  the  United  States,  Mr.  Millard  Fillmore."  * 

"  Some  with  a  flash  begin  and  end  in  smoke ; 
Others  in  smoke  begin  and  bring  forth  glorious  light, 
And  without  raising  expectations  high, 
Dazzle  us  with  surprising  miracles." 

*  The  levee  at  the  White  House,  Washington,  D,  C.   (See  notices  of  the  press.) 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


17 


PHILOSOPHY  OF  FASHION. 


CHAPTER  L 


THE  PHILOSOPHY  OF  MODERN  DRESS  AND  FASHION. 

"  Only  because  I  wore  a  threadbare  suit, 

I  was  not  worthy  of  a  poor  salute. 

A  few  good  clothes  put  on  with  small  ado, 

Purchase  your  knowledge  and  your  kindred  too." 

— Heywood's  Royal  King. 

A  great  modern  writer  has  no  less  profoundly  than  point- 
edly observed  that  "  In  the  one  universal  subject  of  clothes, 
rightly  understood,  is  included  all  that  men  have  thought, 
done  and  dreamed.  The  whole  external  universe  and  all 
that  it  contains  is  but  clothing  ;  and  the  essence  of  all  science 
lies  in  the  philosophy  of  clothes.v 

We  regard  dress  not  merely  as  an  envelope  of  broadcloth, 

cassimere,  silk,  satin,  or  velvet,  wrought  up  in  more  or  less 

taste  after  the  model  of  a  prevailing  pattern,  but  as  one  of 

the  most  significant  expressions  of  character,  and  sustaining 

an  intimate  relation  with  manners  and  morals. 

It  is  universally  admitted  that  nothing  marks  the  gentle- 
2 


18 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


man  more  than  the  style  of  his  dress.  The  elegance,  pro- 
priety and  good  taste  which  are  conspicuous  in  that,  at  once 
create  a  presumption  in  his  favor.  They  form  a  perpetual 
letter  of  recommendation  whose  validity  is  everywhere  ac- 
knowledged. A  rich  and  becoming  costume  answers  as  a 
passport  to  the  traveller ;  opens  the  door  of  hospitable 
courtesy  to  the  stranger  ;  gives  the  citizen  a  free  ticket  to  the 
best  places  in  society ;  forms  a  decorous  ornament  to  wealth, 
and  where  wealth  is  wanting,  in  many  respects  supplies  its 
place.  You  notice  the  well  dressed  gentleman  in  the  streets ; 
in  the  most  crowded  thoroughfares  he  is  conspicuous  above 
the  throng;  he  challenges  your  admiration  even  at  a  distance. 
"  Far  off  his  coming  shines." 

As  he  approaches,  you  are  struck  with  the  exquisite  con- 
tour of  his  dress,  the  tasteful  harmony  of  its  colors,  the 
charming  smoothness  and  supple  undulation  of  its  fit  ;  and 
you  instinctively  pronounce  its  wearer  to  be  a  gentleman. 
He  has  received  justice  at  the  hands  of  his  tailor,  and  you 
cannot  mistake  the  seal  of  his  gentility. 

Nor  is  the  dress  a  less  important  indication  of  the  personal 
taste  of  the  wearer.  It  often  marks  the  distinction  between 
vulgarity  and  refinement ;  it  shows  the  disposition  no  less 
clearly  than  language  or  conduct.  A  mind  imbued  with  a 
love  of  elegance,  devoted  to  the  beautiful  harmonies  of  form, 
of  color,  of  motion  ;  inspired  with  a  passion  for  the  becoming, 
the  lovely,  and  the  graceful,  will  not  fail  to  manifest  itself  in 
selection  and  arrangements  of  dress.   You  see  its  innate  love 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


19 


in  its  outward  surroundings.  Good  taste  is,  in  fact,  like  good 
music — it  harmonizes  and  marks  the  whole  man.  It  extends 
to  the  cut  of  a  garment,  no  less  than  to  the  construction  of 
an  epic.  We  have  always  noticed  that  a  polished  mind 
was  attached  to  graceful  and  elegant  attire.  We  judge  of 
the  good  taste  of  a  man,  not  merely  by  his  air  and  bearing, 
his  speech  and  gesture,  or  his  love  of  art  and  literature,  but 
also  and  in  a  great  measure  by  his  dress.  We  have  often 
been  deceived  by  the  one,  seldom  or  '  never  by  the  other. 
The  character  of  the  dress,  moreover,  is  important  as  a  sign 
of  social  position.  The  moralists  say,  a  man  is  known  by 
the  company  he  keeps.  We  say  he  is  better  known  by  the 
clothes  he  wears.  The  air  of  good  society  cannot  be  given 
except  by  education,  aided  by  the  artistic  hand  of  a  genuine 
tailor. 

The  relation  of  dress  to  manners  and  morals  is  too  obvious 
to  be  insisted  on.  The  first  condition  of  good  manners  is 
ease  and  self-confidence.  If  you  have  no  self-respect,  your 
manners  cannot  win  the  respect  of  your  associates.  If  you 
are  not  easy  with  yourself,  you  can  never  make  them  easy 
with  others.  But  can  a  man  be  at  ease  in  a  coat  out  at  el- 
bows, a  coat  which  hangs  like  a  meal-bag  upon  his  shoulders, 
a  coat  which  reminds  you  of  a  specimen  of  fossil  remains,  or 
an  heirloom  from  one  of  the  company  in  the  ark,  a  coat 
which  is  a  badge  of  contempt,  a  sign  of  vulgarity,  an  ex- 
pression of  a  dilapidated  purse,  a  careless  disposition  or  an 
uncultivated  and  barbarous  taste  ?    No,  an  ill-dressed  man 


20 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


must  be  ill  at  ease.  His  manners  must  be  forced  and  un- 
graceful. He  never  can  show  that  delightful  suavity,  that 
fascinating  union  of  spirit  and  sweetness,  that  enchanting 
harmony  of  expression  and  movement  which  distinguish 
the  finished  gentleman  unless  he  feels  perfectly  at  home  in 
his  clothes,  unless  they  have  been  fitted  to  his  person,  his 
character,  and  his  physiognomy,  with  that  exquisite  skill 
which  is  essential  to  the  style  of  manners,  so  finely  described 
by  the  great  orator  Edmund  Burke  as  the  "  unbought  grace 
of  life." 

Our  great  American  statesman,  the  late  Daniel  Webster, 
was  no  less  distinguished  for  the  graceful  and  imposing  dig- 
nity of  his  manners  than  for  his  diplomatic  skill  and  his 
commanding  eloquence.  But  as  he  was  the  most  able  of 
constitutionalists,  so  was  he  one  of  the  best  dressed  of  gen- 
tlemen. 

In  the  favorite  costume,  blue  and  buff,  of  an  illustrious 
namesake  of  the  author,  the  British  commoner,  Charles 
James  Fox,  no  man  appeared  to  more  trandscendent  ad- 
vantage in  a  legislative  hall  or  a  fashionable  drawing-room, 
than  did  the  eminent  expounder  of  the  constitution;  while  on 
more  solemn  occasions  these  colors  were  doffed,  to  give  place 
to  the  more  sombre  black  mingled  with  white.  We  will  not 
undertake  to  say  in  what  degree  he  was  indebted  to  the  per- 
fection of  his  dress  for  his  imposing  presence  ;  but  we  do 
say  that  his  dress  gave  an  additional  power  to  the  majesty 
of  his  demeanor,  and  the  weight  of  his  eloquence. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


21 


We  may  quote  his  own  words  to  this  effect,  when  on  don- 
ning a  suit  from  the  once  celebrated  emporium  of  Milton's 
(a  retired  tailor)  lie  exclaimed,  "Ah,  I  now  breathe 
easier  than  I  have  done  for  a  long  time  ;  indeed,  I  feel  as 
if  I  were  in  Milton's  Paradise  regained." 

The  influence  of  dress  on  morals  presents  a  theme  for  the 
pen  of  a  philosopher  ;  a  merchant-tailor,  however  experi- 
enced, can  scarcely  hope  to  do  it  justice.  We  will,  however, 
venture  to  submit,  that  no  civilized  man  is  apt  to  commit  a 
crime  in  a  good  suit  of  clothes.  An  easy  and  graceful  gar- 
ment is  incompatible  with  a  deed  of  violence.  The  serenity 
produced  by  a  perfect  fitting  suit  puts  one  in  good  humor 
with  all  mankind.  Arrayed  in  a  fine  and  elegant  costume, 
with  the  consummate  polish  of  appearance  which  it  is 
equally  the  duty  and  the  pride  of  the  conscientious  artist 
tailor  to  impart,  a  man  feels  his  responsibilities  as  a  citizen, 
is  inspired  with  a  love  of  order,  becomes  refined  and  elevated 
in  his  tastes,  is  filled  with  respect  for  law,  decorum  and 
propriety,  and  finds  in  his  own  character  a  guarantee  against 
temptation.  Indeed,  out  of  the  immense  number  of  custom- 
ers who  have  honored  the  author  with  their  patronage,  we 
do  not  know  of  one  who  has  ever  been  convicted  of  a  crime.* 
Many  we  have  seen  raised  by  that  influence  to  exalted  sta- 
tions. Not  one  has  been  brought  before  a  court  of  justice  ; 
not  one  but  who  sustains  a  fair  and  estimable  character,  as 
an  American  citizen.    Is  it  not  evident  that  the  secret  of 

*  (Viz.,  up  to  1SG0.   Multum  in  parw.   More  meant  than  meets  the  ear.) 


22 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


virtue  is  often  found  in  the  wardrobe — that  a  good  dress  is 
a  great  preservative  of  good  morals  ? 

But  we  must  not  omit  to  mention  the  connection  of  dress 
with  commerce,  the  importance  of  which  cannot  be  overlook- 
ed in  our  mercantile  community.  The  tailor  and  the  dress- 
maker are  indispensable  media  between  the  importing  mer- 
chant and  the  consumer.  They  distribute  the  commodities 
which  are  furnished  by  commerce.  Until  the  goods  of  the 
merchant  have  passed  through  their  hands,  their  value  is  in 
a  dormant  state,  and  they  contribute  nothing  to  the  embellish- 
ment or  the  utility  of  life.  Patronize  the  tailor,  you  give  an 
impulse  to  commerce ;  you  help  to  keep  open  the  great 
highway  of  nations  ;  you  lend  your  support  to  the  most 
efficient  and  most  indispensable  agency  of  civilization.  In 
seeking  the  taste  and  elegance  of  your  own  personal  appear- 
ance, you  not  only  contribute  to  the  interests  of  the  profes- 
sion, but  promote  the  welfare  of  our  common  country  and 
universal  fashion. 

"Let  Fashion  follow  the  Treasures  of  the  United 
States."  * 

Such,  fellow-citizens,  is  the  importance  of  a  wise  devotion 
to  this  branch  of  social  economy.  We  maintain  that  you 
cannot  overrate  the  value,  and  hence  you  perceive  the  neces- 
sity of  availing  yourselves  of  the  aid  of  such  artists  as  you 
can  rely  on  for  strength  and  fineness  of  fabric,  elegance  of 
fashion,  color,  perfection  of  fit  and  of  finish. 

*  George  P.  Fox,  at  the  Levee,  Executive  Mansion,  Washington,  D.  C. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


23 


We  are  actuated,  by  a  noble  ambition,  to  elevate  the 
uniform  dress  and  costume  of  the  age  to  its  true  place,  in 
the  unfathomed  interest  of  the  world  of  fashion ;  to  make 
the  American  citizen  as  renowned  for  his  garment  as  for  his 
institutions ;  to  cause  Paris,  London  and  Berlin  to  hide  their 
diminished  heads  as  arbiters  of  gentility  ;  and  to  adorn  the 
Doric  simplicity  of  American  principles  by  the  inimitable 
grace  and  elegance  of  an  appropriate  cosmopolitan  costume. 
While  in  no  way  anxious  to  curtail,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
wishing  to  increase  the  business  of  our  fellow-citizens,  our 
sole  desire  is  to  establish  a  style  of  fashion  commensurate 
with  the  growing  importance  and  dignity  of  this  national 
Union. 


21 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  II 


DRESS — 17th  to  19th  century. 

"  And  catch  the  manners  living  as  they  rise, 

Laugh  where  we  must,  be  candid  when  we  can.1'— Pope. 

"  And  beauty  advances  with  a  single  hair." 

Queen  Elizabeth — Dudley  Earl  of  Essex — Sir  Walter  Raleigh — Lord 
Bacon — Chevalier  Bayard — Cardinal  Wolsey  and  Richelieu — General 
Washington. 

Adornment  of  the  person  appears,  from  ancient  and  mod 
ern  testimony,  to  be  an  instinct  of  our  nature.  As  a  tribute 
of  affection  for  those  we  love,  we  decorate  our  bodies  to  ex- 
hibit our  appreciation  of  the  heart.  The  earliest  Greek 
sculpture  known  represents  a  lovely  maiden  twining  a 
wreath  of  flowers  in  her  lover's  hair.  The  savage,  in  his 
native  wilds,  the  South  Sea-Islanders,  and  our  own  Aborigi- 
nes, have  their  garments  tastefully  embroidered  by  those 
who  love  them,  and  in  the  civilized  world  the  first  gift  of 
awakened  affection  is  an  ornament  for  the  person  of  the 
loved  one.  Mothers,  from  the  highest  rank  to  the  humblest 
walks  of  life,  always  have  this  sentiment,  and  exert  their 
abilities  and  their  means  to  dress  their  children  to  the  great- 
est advantage,  deeming  rightly  that,  in  so  doing,  they  awak- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


25 


en  sympathy  in  each  maternal  heart  beating  in  unison  with 
their  own  affections. 

Despite  the  sarcasm  levelled  against  dress  by  the  unthink- 
ing and  unappreciative,  the  subject  has  engaged  the  practi- 
cal attention  of  some  of  the  wisest  and  most  celebrated  men 
of  all  ages,  nor  has  the  study  been  unproductive  of  praise- 
worthy results.  The  sway  maintained  over  the  mind  of 
Queen  Elizabeth,  by  the  celebrated  Dudley,  Earl  of  Essex, 
was  by  the  exercise  of  his  remarkable  mental  powers ;  and 
when  he  was  reproved  by  his  brother,  the  Earl  of  Suffolk, 
for  the  value  he  placed  upon  the  adornment  of  his  person, 
who  said,  "Parts  like  yours  need  no  such  vanities,"  replied  : 
"  The  writings  of  a  clerkly  scribe  takes  not  from  the  wisdom 
of  the  epistle,  but  rather  tempts  to  a  frequent  perusal  there- 
of. Why  should  a  well-fashioned  exterior,  or  a  nice  casket 
lessen  the  value  of  the  jewel  within  it?"  The  Chevalier 
Bayard  declared,  under  nearly  similar  circumstances,  "  that 
he  who  cared  not  for  his  personal  appearance,  cared  not  for 
his  friends,  or  their  opinions."  The  Cardinals  Wolsey  and 
Eichelieu,  Archbishop  Fenelon,  Sir  Walter  Ealeigh,  Lord 
Herbert,  the  celebrated  George  Villiers,  Duke  of  Bucking- 
ham, the  admirable  Crichton,  and  many  others  of  talent 
and  distinction,  are  described  by  the  authors  of  their  times, 
as  "  marvelous  proper  men  "  in  their  dress,  and  its  appropri- 
ateness and  fashion.  In  one  of  the  letters  of  the  great  Lord 
Bacon,  in  the  Veralam  collections,  he  whites  :  "  The  fashion- 
er (tailor)  hath  made  my  gown  of  a  color  so  unsuitecl  to  me 


20 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


as  to  make  me  appear  sick,  as  if  badly  distempered."  Thus 
proving  that  the  great  philosopher  had  in  his  mind  an  ap- 
preciation of  the  true  aims  of  dress — its  appropriateness  of 
color  to  the  complexion  of  the  wearer.  Dress,  like  every 
other  thin  or  in  this  life,  is  as  commendable  for  its  use  as  it 
is  reprehensible  for  its  abus*e.  Its  uses  and  influences  upon 
society  are  what  all  have  attempted  to  prove,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  the  great  names  quoted  above  will  rescue  the  subject 
from  the  shallow  apology  too  often  made  its  abuse, — that  it 
is  trifling  and  undeserving  our  study. 

How  material  to  our  worldly  interests  a  good  exterior 
may  become,  is  a  matter  of  daily  experience.  Our  first  ap- 
pearance before  one  upon  whom  our  success  in  life  in  some 
degree  depends,  or  before  the  opposite*  sex,  in  whom  we 
seek  a  personal  interest,  often  creates  impressions  favorable 
and  beneficial  beyond  our  fondest  hopes,  or  may  unjustly 
detract  from  our  real  merits,  in  a  manner  that  requires  much 
time  and  effort  to  obliterate,  if  they  ever  be  completely  re- 
moved. In  this  latter  position,  an  ill-made  suit  of  clothes, 
or  unsuitable  in  color,  may  still  more  strongly  turn  the  tide 
of  opinion  to  our  disadvantage,  and  in  a  manner  we  can 
scarcely  conceive  ;  and  the  common  and  unfriendly  defence 
is,  "Yes,  Smith  is  a  good  fellow,  when  you  know  him,  but 
he  has  no  taste,  and  is  quite  a  sloven  in  his  dress."  This 
must  be  regarded  as  anything  but  complimentary,  in  meet- 
ing the  bad  impressions  already  formed.  Nor  can  such  a 
state  of  things  be  looked  upon  as  much  less  than  a  grievous 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS.  27 

fault,  when  the  remedy  is  so  easily  in  the  reach  of  all. 
With  the  opposite  sex,  we  keenly  see  and  instantly  detect 
the  want  of  taste  that  detracts  from  their  pleasing  appear- 
ance. "  What  an  indifferently  dressed  girl  she  is  !  Who 
would  think  that  any  one  of  Miss  Jones'  complexion  could 
wear  a  blue  or  a  green  dress !  It  makes  her  look  as  yellow 
as  saffron."  These  are  the  daily  remarks  of  men,  who  are 
themselves  guilty  of  the  same  solecisms  of  taste. 

If  a  gentleman  goes  to  an  establishment,  which  has  for  its 
principal  a  man  of  taste,  who  knows  his  profession  thor- 
oughly, such  defects  would  be  instantly  remedied. 

An  instance  occurred  a  few  years  since,  where  a  gentleman 
of  fortune  made  an  observation  to  the  following  effect,  in  an 
establishment  on  Broadway  :  "  It  is  of  no  use,  Mr.  G.  P. 
Fox,  for  me  to  care  what  I  wear;  nobody  could  make  me 
look  well.  I  must  therefore  depend  upon  other  attractions, 
not  upon  dress,  for  the  impression  I  am  to  make  upon  socie- 
ty." The  reply  was,  "Will  you  permit  me,  sir,  to  select 
your  dress,  and  leave  its  details  altogether  to  my  arrange- 
ment ?  If  your  friends  and  yourself  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  result,  which  I  am  confident  they  will  be,  you  will  at 
least  be  no  worse  off."  Laughingly,  but doubtingly,  the  offer 
was  accepted,  and  the  specialties  of  complexion  and  bodily 
form  were  studied  and  overcome.  A  color  suited  to  the  com- 
plexion was  chosen,  the  extreme  length  of  neck  was  modi- 
fied, the  great  fall  of  shoulders  was  remedied  by  the  setting 
in  of  the  sleeves  and  their  surroundings,  and  in  effecting 


28 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


these  improvements  an  exact  fit  was  for  the  first  time  applied 
to  the  form,  giving  a  gentlemanly  ease  and  freedom  from  all 
restraint,  as  pleasing  as  it  was  novel.  His  friends  accosted 
him  with,  "Dear  me,  how  remarkably  well  you  look  to-day. 
What  have  you  been  doing  with  yourself?"  And  his  imme- 
diate relatives  declared  he  was  an  altered  man.  With  all 
the  necessary  attributes  of  mind  and  of  fortune,  he  needed 
but  this  to  place  him  upon  an  equality  with  those  he  had 
deemed  more  fortunate  than  himself  in  their  external  appear- 
ance. 

The  effect  of  the  color  of  the  clothing  upon  the  complex- 
ion of  the  wearer  can  scarcely  be  credited  by  those  who  have 
not  witnessed  the  fact  and  studied  its  causes.  In  some  com- 
plexions one  color  and  its  various  shades  will  produce  a 
greenish  tinge,  and  another  color  will  bathe  the  same  coun- 
tenance with  a  violet  tinge,  whilst  the.  contrast  produced 
when  the  clothes  are  formed  of  a  proper  contrast  of  color 
will  give  to  the  face  the  ordinary  healthy  flesh  tint.  In 
suiting  the  clothing  to  the  complexion  of  the  wearer,  a  knowl- 
edge of  colors  and  their  modifications  by  contrast  is  abso- 
lutely essential.  Where  a  shade  of  sallowness  approaching 
to  a  yellow  tinge  pervades  the  countenance,  if  a  light  blue 
or  green  be  worn,  the  natural  tendency  is  to  increase  the 
sallowness  almost  to  a  yellow.  If,  on  the  contrary,  shades 
of  brown,  particularly  those  having  a  tint  of  yellow  mixed 
with  red,  be  worn,  the  defect  is  so  modified  by  the  contrast 
as  to  be  lost  to  the  ordinary  observer.    Under  such  circum- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


29 


stances,  in  black  full  dress,  the  judicious  introduction  of  the 
modifying  tint  near  the  face,  will  also  serve  to  produce  the 
desired  contrast.  Two  cases  in  point  may  serve  to  illustrate 
the  fact  better  than  a  more  elaborate  elucidation  of  the  the- 
ory upon  which  the  contrast  is  founded.  The  witty  Colonel 
Kingsman,  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  was  in 
the  height  of  his  fame.  Those  who  did  not  know  him  con- 
tinually noticed  the  extraordinary  yellowness  of  his  face. 
One  day  a  little  girl,  a  spoiled  child,  asked  him  before  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  afterwards  George  the  4th,  "  Why  have 
you  a  face  like  brass.  Colonel?"  The  wit  replied  :  "  Because 
I  am  a  man  of  metal,  my  love."  But  the  attention  brought 
upon  him  rankled  in  his  mind,  and  caused  him  annoyance. 
Beau  Brummell,  who  was  one  of  the  Colonel's  most  intimate 
friends,  perceiving  the  effect  produced,  told  him  that  if  he 
would  go  with  him  to  his  tailor,  who  had  taste  and  judg- 
ment, he  would  assist  him  in  remedying  the  defect.  Brum- 
mell's  promise  was  fulfilled,  and  to  such  a  degree,  that  the 
Prince's  joke  that  Kingsman  was  the  man  with  the  brass 
mask  completely  lost  its  application.  The  well-known  Lord 
Petersham  (the  late  Earl  of  Harrington)  was  of  a  peculiarly 
sallow  complexion,  although  otherwise  a  remarkably  hand- 
some man.  To  overcome  this  defect,  his  tailor  invented 
that  brown,  now  known  as  the  "  Harrington  brown,"  in  a 
full  suit  of  which  he  was  dressed  for  morning  attire  during 
his  life.  The  effect  of  this  brown,  in  overcoming  the  sallow- 
ness  of  his  face,  induced  him  to  have  his  liveries  of  the  same 


30 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


shade,  and  his  carriages  were  painted  of  the  same  color. 
Brummell  was  a  man  of  great  talent  as  well  as  taste,  and  to 
him  we  are  indebted  for  the  frock-coat,  which  superseded 
the  swallow-tailed  dress-coat  in  morning  costume ;  for  the 
trowsers  superseding  the  tight-fitting  habiliments  previously 
prevailing  ;  for  the  broad-spread  neckcloth ;  for  making  the 
black  necktie  fashionable,  and  for  the  introduction  of  starch 
into  the  white  necktie.  In  his  intimacy  with  the  Prince  of 
Wales  he  made  those  suggestions  to  the  Prince  that  caused 
him  to  be  the  best  dressed  man — the  first  step  toward  being 
the  first  gentleman  in  Europe.  Brummell  was  the  first 
man  to  make  fashions  in  some  degree  succumb  to  the 
requirements  and  peculiarities  of  the  individual,  and  the 
color  of  dress  to  the  complexion  of  the  wearer.  Count 
D'Orsay  in  recent  days  did  not  think  it  derogatory  to  his 
great  and  varied  abilities  to  make  dress  his  study,  and  indeed 
to  become  the  leader  of  fashion  in  that  particular,  in  England 
as  well  as  on  the  continent  of  Europe ;  and  with  his  large 
and  generous  heart,  nothing  gave  him  greater  pleasure  than 
suggesting  the  cut  and  color  that  would  best  become  his 
friends,  and  put  them  upon  good  terms  with  themselves. 

General  Washington  was  celebrated  for  his  noble  appear- 
ance, majestic  form,  and  intuitive  taste  in  dress.  The  effect 
of  the  yellowish  buff  vest,  small  clothes  linings  and  facings, 
and  the  gilt  buttons  of  his  blue  uniform  coat,  in  making  it 
harmonize  with  the  weather-beaten  complexion  of  the  hero, 
seems  to  have  evinced  an  inborn  taste  and  judgment  rarely 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


31 


witnessed.  When  General  Washington,  as  president,  was 
dressed  for  his  civic  receptions,  the  richness  of  the  material, 
black  silk  velvet  and  point  lace  ruffles,  their  admirable  fit 
and  the  imposing  presence,  that  adorned  rather  than  was 
adorned  by  them,  showed  how  sensibly  alive  he  was  to  the 
harmony  of  his  personal  appearance.  General  Hamilton  was 
also  well  known  for  his  admirable  taste  in  dress ;  and 
Washington's  suite,  or  military  family,  as  it  was  then  the 
fashion  to  call  them,  took  their  initiative  of  taste  in  their 
costume  from  their  great  chief.  Military  uniform,  however, 
has  but  a  recent  history  in  comparison  with  civic  fashions. 
For  many  ages  uniformity  was  impossible,  the  armies  being 
composed  of  levies  upon  the  Barons,  who  brought  to  their  sov- 
ereigns quotas  of  men  according  to  the  extent  of  their  domain. 
Besides  this,  the  universal  custom  of  wearing  armor  rendered 
it  unnecessary.  King  Charles  the  First,  of  England,  ordered 
the  leather  buff  suits  of  the  army  to  be  made  after  one 
pattern.  Charles  2d,  some  years  after  the  restoration,  or- 
dered the  scarlet  coat  to  be  the  dress-coat  of  the  army,  and 
in  his  latter  years  of  the  royal  guards.  This  uniform  con- 
tinued through  the  succeeding  reigns  of  James,  William  of 
Orange  and  Anne,  until  the  Duke  of  Marlborough,  before 
the  battle  of  Blenheim,  did  away  with  the  cuirass  which 
the  great  Napoleon  restored  to  his  heavy  cavalry — the 
cuirassiers.  The  three-cornered  hat,  trimmed  with  lace, 
etc.,  the  square  coat  with  long  waist,  formed  of  scarlet 
cloth  with  gold  lace,  lined  with  buff,  the  corners  turned  up 


32 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


so  as  to  display  an  angle  of  the  lining,  whilst  small  clothes 
and  canvas  leggins,  reaching  above  the  knees,  were  the  dress 
of  the  army,  which,  with  trifling  modifications,  lasted  until  af- 
ter the  breaking  out  of  the  American  revolution.  The  great 
Washington  chose  a  blue  and  buff  uniform  of  a  similar  pat- 
tern for  that  of  the  continental  troops.  At  first,  this  was 
confined  to  the  staffs  and  some  of  the  officers.  Blue  has 
now  become  the  national  uniform,  and  the  handsome  contrast 
of  bine  shaded  colors,  so  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  becoming 
to  the  martial  wearer,  has  engrafted  itself  upon  the  hearts  of 
the  people,  and  is  inseparably  associated  with  the  father  of 
his  country  and  its  heroic  defenders.* 

Up  to  the  last  few  years  the  convenience  of  the  soldiers, 
or  the  fitness  of  the  form  of  the  regimental  to  the  duties  of 
his  avocation,  entered  very  little  into  the  thoughts  of  those 
who  contrived  new  uniforms.  George  the  4th,  when  Prince 
Regent  for  more  than  twenty  years,  undertook  the  task  of 
composing  uniforms,  caps,  helmets,  shockos,  casquettes, 
jackets,  coatees  and  pelisses,  changed  from  day  to  day,  truss- 

*For  a  more  detailed  description  of  the  "regulations  and  dress  of  the  U.  S.  Army 
and  Navy,"  the  reader  is  respectfully  referred  to  the  books  issued  by  the  War  and  Navy 
Departments,  containing  elaborate  drawings,  official  descriptions  and  orders  by  the 
Department  of  State  at  Washington,  D.  C.  The  practical  experience  of  the  author 
respectfully  suggests  that  the  fabrics  for  the  U.  S.  service  should  be  free  from  shoddy, 
in  material  and  otherwise  ;  and  that  all  woven  woolen  materials  shall  be  water  repel- 
lant,  warranted  not  to  shrink  or  fade  in  color.  U.  S.  N.  for  distinction,  known  as  the 
darkest  blue.  U.  S.  A.  of  a  lighter  shade,  viz. :  no  third  shade.  It  is  further  suggested 
that,  U.  S.  Volunteer  Regiments,  Zouaves  and  soldiers,  be  clothed  in  like  manner. 
Choose  fancy  fast  colors,  each  and  all  soldiers,  and  others  in  the  service,  suitably 
dressed  in  the  same  exact  shade  of  material.  The  arms  and  accoutrements,  &c,  all 
to  exact  certified  latest  approved  pattern. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


33 


ing  up  the  soldier  like  a  pigeon  stuffed  for  roasting,  and 
dressing  hi  in  so  tightly,  that  each  manoeuvre  created  a  fear 
in  the  beholder  that  their  garments  would  be  split  in  pieces. 
In  1817  the  Duke  of  Wellington  introduced  trousers  into 
the  army,  but  could  not,  before  the  end  of  a  long  life,  get 
the  tunic  or  frock-coat  to  supplant  the  tight-fitting  body- 
coat.  The  French  first  saw  that  the  wide  trousers  and 
roomy  tunic  gave  the  soldier  an  immense  advantage,  and 
freedom  from  restraint  while  on  duty.  England  followed., 
and  we  are  gradually  following  a  similar  plan. 

There  might  be  introduced  many  improvements  in  mili- 
tary uniforms,  and  its  readier  adaptation  to  the  freedom  and 
graceful  appearance  of  the  wearer,  the  details  of  which  can 
not  be  gone  into  in  a  brief  essay  like  this,  but  which  would 
come  home  immediately  to  the  mind  of  the  educated  soldier, 
whose  conservative  prejudices  have  not  fossilized  his  judg- 
ment. Although  the  gold  lace  and  embroidery  of  Europe  are 
not  copied  by  us  to  a  great  extent,  yet  both  arms  of  the  ser- 
vice have  been  the  victims  of  expensive  and  injudicious 
changes,  in  which  caprice,  in  many  instances,  rather  than 
judgment,  has  guided  their  invention. 

In  the  navies  of  England  and  France,  great  changes  have 

taken  place  for  the  last  two  centuries.    In  the  first  named 

country,  blue,  faced  with  white,  has  been  used  until  lately, 

and  in  the  latter,  red,  with  gold  lace,  &c.    King  "William 

the  4th  altered  the  facings  of  the  British  Navy  to  red, 

for  a  brief  period,  but  ultimately  restored  it. 
3 


34 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


The  uniform  and  dress  of  the  United  States  Navy  were 
originally  very  simple :  a  blue  dress  suit,  with,  epaulettes, 
the  navy  button,  and  a  chapeau,  being  all  that  distinguished 
it  from  that  of  the  civilian.  This  gave  way  some  years  since  to 
more  apparent  distinctions  of  rank,  by  the  distribution  of 
the  buttons,  and  a  number  of  gold  bands,  &c,  around  the 
cuffs.  In  the  month  of  March,  1852,  the  Navy  Department 
issued  a  regulation  order,  for  a  change  in  the  uniform  and 
dress  of  the  service.  Each  grade  of  commissioned  officers, 
including  the  Marine  Corps,  were  obliged  to  have  undress, 
service,  and  full  dress  uniforms — the  last  richly  ornamented 
with  gold  lace  or  embroidery  on  the  collar,  epaulettes,  lace 
on  the  cuffs  and  pantaloons,  according  to  rank,  having  on 
them  the  insignia  of  the  particular  grade  in  the  service, 
with  swords,  chapeau,  &c,  to  match.  This  costly  uniform 
completely  eclipses  the  modest  dress  of  the  army. 

Various  alterations  have  been  effected  by  the  successive 
secretaries  of  the  army  and  navy.  The  principal  one,  how- 
ever, in  the  navy  uniform,  has  been  in  the  abolishing  of  the 
body  or  full  dress  uniform  coat.  Whenever  this  latter 
change  has  been  discussed,  among  distinguished  naval  com- 
manders, it  has  always  been  with  the  popular  opinion  against 
that  change.  A  partial  restoration  of  the  uniform  dress  coat  has 
been  made  in  favor  of  certain  specified  ranks  in  the  service, 
especially  referred  to  in  the  printed  regulations  of  the  Navy 
Department,  for  the  year  1869,  &c.  Uniform  and  dress  of 
the  Kevenue  Marine  Service  has  also  been  issued  by  the 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


35 


Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  The  allusions  here  made  to  the' 
uniforms  of  the  respective  services  of  the  United  States  are 
necessarily  brief.  The  author,  for  a  more  elaborate  descrip- 
tion, would  refer  the  reader  to  the  regulations  issued  by  the' 
departments  of  the  respective  services. 

The  latter  remarks  are  equally  applicable  in  reference  to- 
the  uniform  and  dress  of  the  State  of  New  York  Militia,  and 
other  State  Yolunteer  Militia,  their  uniforms  being  dis- 
tinctive, soldier-like  and  efficient,  yet  different  to  the  regular 
army  of  the  United  States.  The  uniforms  of  the  New  York 
Metropolitan  Police  Force,  and  Fire  Department,  are  also 
obliged  to  conform  to  the  printed  regulations  of  the  services 
here  related. 

For  reasons  stated,  it  is  not  the  author's  intention  to  de- 
scribe in  this  edition  minutely  every  article  that  is  consid- 
ered requisite  or  fashionable  for  a  gentleman's  dress,  of  the 
present  day ;  it  would  require,  to  do  the  latter  subject  jus- 
tice, at  least  many  other  volumes,  containing  pictorial  illus- 
trations, commonly  called  plates  of  fashion,  with  explana- 
tory printed  descriptions  of  gentlemen's  under  and  outward 
attire,  in  manner  similar  to  those  that  are  regularly  published 
in  this  country,  France,  England,  Germany,  &c  The  fashion 
plates  are  generally  accompanied  with  what  is  called  tailors' 
paper  patterns,  and  directions  showing,  to  a  certain  extent, 
and  giving  a  rough  idea  of  the  various  modifications  each 
garment  is  supposed  to  require,  to  harmonize  in  taste,  cut, 
style,  trimmings,  fabrics,  shades,  and  colors,  deemed  suitable, 


36 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


all  of  which  are  more  or  less  useful  for  the  guidance  of  the 
tailor  and  his  customers,  in  the  formation  of  civilian  dress 
costume,  the  Army,  the  Navy,  Liveries,  &c. 

Many  of  the  leading  fashionable  tailors  here  import  with 
their  fabrics,  viz.,  cloths,  cassimeres,  vestings,  &c,  plates  of 
fashions,  also  suits  of  clothes,  overcoats,  &c. ;  the  latter  from 
some  of  the  most  celebrated  tailors  of  France,  Germany, 
England,  and  other  parts  of  Europe. 

The  inventive  genius  and  enterprise  of  the  Americans 
being  proverbial,  they  at  once  discard  the  incongruities,  an- 
tiquated, stiff,  formal,  vulgar  character  of  the  European 
made  clothes,  and  originate  in  their  stead  new  styles  of  im- 
proved patterns,  combining  the  advantages  of  the  foreign 
made  garments,  in  the  superior  adaptation  of  construction, 
gracefulness,  ease  and  faultless  finish,  the  admitted  character 
of  the  American  -Standard  of  Fashion. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


37 


CHAPTER  III 


SUGGESTIONS   ON  THE   DIPLOMATIC  DRESS  OF  U.  S.  MINIS- 
TERS, SECRETARIES  OF  LEGATION,  AND  CONSULS 
TO  FOREIGN  GOVERNMENTS. 

If  I  had  served  my  God  with  but  half  the  zeal 

I  have  served  my  king, 

He  would  not  thus  have  deserted  me 

In  mine  old  age. — Shakespeare. 

There  exists  a  great  diversity  of  opinion  among  civilians, 
as  well  as  officials,  of  what  should  constitute  the  costumes 
of  our  diplomatic  representatives  abroad.  Many  support  the 
views  of  the  late  Mr.  Marcy,  when  holding  the  office  of 
Secretary  of  State.  These  views  were,  that  an  American 
representative  at  a  foreign  court,  should  appear  in  the  sim- 
ple dress  of  an  American  citizen,  viz.  :  a  black  cloth  suit. 
The  contrast  of  this  garb  with  the  brilliant  surroundings  of 
uniforms  and  court  costumes,  makes  the  wearer  appear  as  if 
he  had  suddenly  come  from  a  funeral  ceremony  into  a  gay 
assemblage.  Besides,  it  presents  the  representative  of  the 
great  American  Eepublic,  in  the  relation  to  the  rest  of  the 
guests,  of  being  mistaken  for  one  of  the  subordinate  waiters? 
(See  index  of  contents  and  correspondence.) 


38 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


It  has  been  remarked  by  those  who  are  far  more  compe- 
tent to  judge  than  the  late  Hon.  Mr.  Marcy,  that  such  a  dress 
is  as  much  out  of  place  in  a  court  as  he  was.  Some  of  our 
most  enlightened  citizens  who  have  been  presented  at  the 
various  courts  of  Europe  consider  the  above  objections. 
They  are  equally  supported  by  our  Foreign  Ministers,  Secre- 
taries of  Legations  and  Consuls.  Both  parties  mostjcordially 
agree,  that  the  objections  could  be  easily  obviated  without 
incurring  the  prejudices  of  the  people,  but  on  the  other 
hand,  eliciting  their  patriotic  approval.  It  has  been  appro- 
priately suggested,  that  the  costume  of  the  father  of  his 
country,  as  he  appeared  on  state  occasions,  would  be  a  suit- 
able one  for  our  Foreign  Ministers.  This  consisted  of  a 
full  suit  of  black  silk  velvet,  with  knee  breeches,  silk  hose 
and  dress  pumps,  frilled  shirt  ruffled  cuffs,  and  court 
dress  sword.  The  same  high  authorities  also  recommend 
that  a  similar  suit,  with  modifications,  be  worn  by  the  Secre- 
tary of  Legation — yet  of  so  marked  a  character  as  to 
distinguish  him  from  his  chief ;  and  that  the  costume  of  U.  S. 
Consuls  should  be  governed  by  the  regulation  of  dress  as 
described  in  the  archives  of  the  State  Department.  The 
author  has  been  favored  by  the  State  Department  with  a  de- 
scription of  the  official  costume  of  the  consuls,  from  which 
he  quotes  as  follows :  A  single-breasted  coat  of  blue  cloth, 
with  a  standing  collar  and  ten  navy  buttons  in  front.  Yest 
pf  white  Marseilles  or  buff  cassimere ;  pants  of  blue  cloth  or 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


39 


cassimere,  with  gold  lace  down  the  outer  seams.  With  this 
dress  a  cocked  hat  and  small  sword  are  to  be  worn. 

The  diplomatic  and  consulate  service  had,  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Kepublic,  a  rich  but  unobtrusive  dress, 
worn  by  them  at  foreign  courts.  This  had  the  high  sanction 
of  General  Washington,  who  is  said  to  have  half-chided  Dr. 
Franklin  for  not  wearing  it,  saying,  u  That  he  should  uphold 
the  dignity  of  his  country,  even  in  the  eyes  of  fools."  Gov- 
ernor Marcy,  finding  means  of  distinction  difficult,  hit  upon 
the  idea  of  improving  and  superseding  the  orders  of  the 
Father  of  his  Country,  by  forbidding  its  continuance. 

While  the  ancient  close-fitting  vestments  exhibited  all  the 
bodily  defects  to  which  the  physical  form  was  subject,  the 
fashioner  of  judgment  of  the  present  day  can  make  the 
clothes  of  each  individual  meet  the  specialties  of  the  occa- 
occasion.  A  few  instances  of  ordinary  variation  from  the 
true  and  perfect  form  will  come  to  the  daily  experience  of 
the  reader.  The  shoulder  on  the  right  side  has  its  muscles 
alone  developed  by  many  of  the  occupations  of  citizens, 
making  the  ]eft  shoulder  appear  lower  and  smaller.  This  is 
successfully  obviated  by  the  skilful  artist,  as  is  partially 
shown  in  the  case  of  our  late  illustrious  Commander  in-Chief, 
General  Scott,  whose  left  shoulder  receded  from  the  effects 
of  a  wound  received  in  battle,  the  ball  from  a  British  musket 
remaining  under  his  blade-bone.  By  the  manner  in  which 
the  writer  met  and  overcame  this  difficulty,  it  would  be  all 
but  impossible  to  detect  upon  which  side  the  variation  was 


4j0  FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 

perceptible,  and  in  thus  remedying  the  defect,  ease,  grace 
and  equality  of  form  to  the  frame  was  restored. 

A  hollowness  "under  the  arms  by  the  side  of  the  chest,  is 
very  common  with  those  not  leading  an  active  life.  This 
can  be  as  easily  and  skilfully  remedied.  The  flatness  and 
protuberance  of  the  chest  can  be  similarly  obviated  so  as  to 
give  perfect  grace  to  the  figure. 

By  judicious  cutting,  and  a  knowledge  of  formation,  the 
tall,  slight  man  can  be  preserved  from  invidious  comparisons, 
and  the  short  and  stout  individual  can  equally  be  relieved 
from  his  peculiarity  of  appearance.  If  the  limbs  are  inclined 
to  meet  at  the  knees,  by  the  peculiar  cut  of  the  pantaloons, 
this  defect  can  be  concealed  as  when  the  limbs  incline  to 
bow  ;  by  another  modification  of  this  system,  this  defect  can 
also  be  relieved  from  observation.  So  also  what  is  termed 
buck-knees,  similar  to  Richard  the  3d,  can  be  as  easily  con- 
cealed. A  case  in  point  was  presented  some  years  since  in 
the  alterations  effected  in  the  appearance  of  a  well-known 
British  Minister  at  Washington.  This  distinguished  gentle- 
man's limbs  were  peculiarly  attenuated  and  formless,  and 
when  the  author  was  called  upon  by  him,  the  ambassador 
wore  a  dress  which  was  most  painful  to  look  upon.  But  the 
first  pair  of  trousers  made  for  his  lordship  by  the  oriental 
system  of  cutting,  instantly  removed  these  peculiarities,  and 
placed  him  on  a  par  with  the  best  dressed  and  best  formed 
members  of  the  Foreign  Legation,  &c. 

In  Paris,  the  fame  of  the  Duke  de  Noailles  and  the  Mar- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


41 


quis  de  Yalmy,  as  Chief  de  la  Mode,  arose  from  the  exact 
adaptation  of  form,  cut  and  color,  to  their  personal  require- 
ments and  peculiarities.  The  present  Prince  of  Wales — al- 
though from  his  fair  complexion  and  symmetrical  form  being 
released  from  the  rules  pertaining  to  exceptional  cases — is  re- 
markable for  his  taste  and  chaste  neatness  of  costume. 
Fashion,  they  say,  is  an  exacting  tyrant,  but  like  many  other 
despots  of  modern  days,  it  has  been  obliged  to  modify  its 
requirements  to  the  wants  of  the  world,  as  the  sole  means  of 
saving  itself  from  a  disgraceful  dethronement. 

To  be  neatly  and  appropriately  dressed  is  undoubtedly 
our  duty  as  it  is  our  interest.  If  we  would  seek  the  world's 
respect,  provided  we  have  the  means,  let  the  materials  be 
the  best  of  their  kind — this  will  be  found  the  truest  and 
wisest  economy  in  the  end. 

Let  your  clothes  fit  nicely  to  the  form,  be  appropriate  in 
color,  and  well  placed,  as  the  bird  arranges  his  feathers.  In 
the  business  man  this  insures  additional  trust  and  confidence. 
He  who  cares  for  his  own  rights  is  seldom  insensible  to  those 
of  others.  To  our  friends  we  are  as  much  morally  bound  to 
offer  a  pleasing  exterior,  as  a  smiling  face  or  a  clean,  well- 
appointed  table.  In  the  family  circle  it  teaches  our  children 
order,  cleanliness,  and  a  love  for  the  proprieties  of  life,  and 
last,  but  not  least,  it  gives  a  man  a  confidence  in  himself,  and 
ease  of  manners  in  society,  without  which  it  is  difficult 
for  him  to  pass  as  a  gentleman,  or  he  of  the  slovenly  dress 
to  be  recognized  as  one. 


42 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


ETIQUETTE  IN  DRESS  AND  FASHION. 

"  Dress  makes  the  man,  the  want  of  it  the  fellow, 
And  all  the  rest  is  leather  and  prunella." 
"  Costly  thy  habit  as  thy  purse  can  buy, 
But  not  expressed  in  fancy,  rich,  not  gaudy, 
For  the  apparel  oft  proclaims  the  man." 

Etiquette  in  dress  and  fashion  is  founded  upon  the  all-im- 
portant data,  viz. :  What  is  due  to  ourselves  in  the  position 
we  hold  in  society,  and  what  we  owe  to  those  who  have  a 
claim  on  our  respect,  and  in  whom  we  are  in  daily  inter- 
course. 

From  the  time  of  the  patriarchs  to  the  present  day,  all 
nations  of  the  world  have  had  their  ceremonial  vestments, 
and  despite  the  sneers  of  the  cynic  and  the  diatribes  of  the 
disorganizers  of  the  social  system,  the  best  bred  people  of 
the  civilized  world  have  distinguished  themselves  from  the 
under  classes  by  the  preservation  of  customs  so  easy  of 
practice,  and  which  convey  to  the  intelligent  mind  the  assur- 
ance, that  he  who  faithfully  observes  the  minor  morals  of 
society  is  rarely  deficient  in  its  more  important  virtues. 

The  Italian  says,  "Show  me  your  company,  and  I  will  tell 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


43 


you  who  you  are."  "  Respect  yourself  as  the  first  step  to  the 
respect  of  others."  This  axiom  aptly  applies  to  our  daily 
dress,  upon  which  we  will  now  note  down  a  few  standard 
rules,  gathered  from  the  best  society  and  authors  in  this  and 
other  countries. 


1± 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  DRESSING  GOWN  AND  LOUNGING  JACKET. 

"  And  your  gown's  a  most  rare  fashion." — Much  ado  about  nothing. 
"  A  fellow  that  hath  had  losses,  and  one  that  hath  two  gowns, 
And  everything  handsome  about  him." — Ibid. 

This  luxurious  robe  de  chambre  was  intended  for  the  dress- 
ing room  or  chamber  only,  but  heads  of  families  have  occa- 
sionally used  it  as  a  breakfast  habit  in  their  houses.  The 
gentleman  of  true  refinement  before  visitors,  would  not 
appear  so  costumed.  The  wearing  of  this  robe  infers  that 
the  toilet  is  not  thoroughly  made,  a  fact  which  implies  no 
great  respect  for  the  visitor  so  received.  A  lady  might, 
with  as  much  propriety,  appear  in  curl  papers  at  breakfast, 
as  a  gentleman  in  a  dressing  gown.  Young  men  often 
appear  at  the  breakfast  table  in  a  tasty,  easy  fitting  and  fancy 
trimmed  lounging  or  smoking  room  jacket.  It  is  not  cor- 
rect to  wear  this  garment  (a  robe  de  chambre)  at  any  other 
meal,  and  certainly  not  in  the  drawing-rooms  or  parlors,  in 
presence  of  polite  society. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


45 


CHAPTER  VI 


THE  MORNING  DRESS. 

"  Metliinks  I  scent  the  morning  air." 
"  The  morning  cock  crew  loud." 

Hamlet. 

In  the  cities,  the  general  morning  or  walking  dress  is 
that  in  which  the  man  of  refinement  appears  at  the  break- 
fast table,  the  restriction  in  colors  being  in  regard  tc 
black,  except  the  party  is  in  deep  mourning,  or  belongs  to 
the  learned  profession,  where  the  sombre  shade  is  always 
allowable,  or  in  case  the  complexion  of  the  wearer  imperi- 
ously prevents  his  adoption  of  light  or  fancy  colors.  In  the 
first  circles  of  Europe,  it  is  in  a  high  degree  bad  taste  for  a 
gentleman  to  appear  in  the  street  during  the  morning  in 
black  pantaloons.  It  is  always  best  that  the  morning  dress 
be  in  a  manner  neglige,  and  the  rule  which  prohibits  the 
introduction  of  every  portion  of  full  dress  in  the  early  part 
of  the  day,  is  also  imperative  in  rendering  inadmissible  the 
appearance  of  the  morning  frock  coat  upon  promenade,  at 
or  after  dinner,  or  in  dress  circles.  Sack  and  frock  coats  of 
various  colors  and  forms,  to  suit  the  person  and  complexion 


46 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


of  the  wearer,  with  vest  and  pantaloons  to  match  in  shade, 
or  of  the  same  or  similar  material,  forming  an  agreeable  con- 
trast ;  scrupulously  white  linen,  black  or  colored  neck-tie 
of  modest  pattern  and  becoming  shade,  white  pocket-hand- 
kerchief with  colored  border,  form  the  morning  costume  of 
the  gentlemen  under  fifty  years  of  age,  after  which  period 
more  quiet  colors  and  contrasts  become  suitable.  The 
office  or  promenade  suit  of  one  color  throughout,  with  ap- 
pliances as  above  stated,  is  also  strictly  within  the  rule.  In 
a  morning  costume,  kid  gloves  of  any  fashionable  material, 
from  a  stone-color  to  a  dark  olive-color,  according  to  taste, 
are  worn. 

Have  a  good  hat ;  the  secret  of  your  looks* 
Lies  with  the  beaver  in  Canadian  brooks. 
Virtue  may  flourish  in  an  old  cravat, 
But  man  and  nature  scorn  the  shocking  hat. 

O.  W.  Holmes. 

The  hat  which  may  be  worn  now  varies  so  much  in  shape 
and  color,  that  all  that  can  be  said  upon  that  subject  is,  that 
the  wearer  should  select  according  to  the  season,  fashion, 
and  most  suitable  to  his  countenance.  In  the  city  of  New 
York,  as  the  Central  Park  has  become  the  afternoon  prome- 
nade of  the  beau  monde,  taking  the  place  on  this  continent  of 
the  Champs  Ely  see,  Hyde  Park  and  Kensington  Gardens  of 
Europe.  Gentlemen  who  accompany  ladies  of  refined  taste 
and  education,  should  not  appear  in  office  suits,  but  should 
assume  a  dress  more  conformable  to  the  respect  which  they 
owe  to  the  opposite  sex.    A  blue,  brown,  fancy  dark  color, 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


47 


mixed  or  black  frock  coat,  a  silk  or  velvet  vest,  fancy 
cassimere  pantaloons,  would  be  appropriate.  With  this 
dress,  varied  according  to  the  season,  primrose,  lavender 
and  light  fawn-colored  gloves,  are  according  to  rule. 


48 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  RIDING  DRESS. 

A  horse,  a  horse,  my  kingdom  for  a  horse ! 

Richard  III. 

The  riding  dress  for  equestrian  exercise  differs  in  cut, 
color  and  material  from  that  used  for  walking.  The  coat  is 
usually  cut  away  at  the  skirts,  with  cross  pockets  in  the 
skirt  and  breast.  The  pantaloons  or  trowsers  are  occasion- 
ally differently  formed,  and  so  arranged  as  to  be  put  within 
the  high  boots  used  on  horseback.  Overcoats  and  Oriental 
Khabans  are  of  various  kinds  of  fabrics  and  colors,  according 
to  the  season ;  the  dress  or  closely -fitting  habit  being  almost 
superseded,  except  for  dress  occasions,  by  the  loose  neglije 
garments  of  the  period. 

The  travelling  dress,  which  may  be  classed  with  morning 
attire,  should  be  of  some  of  the  various  shades  of  brown, 
gray,  or  mingled  fashionable  colors,  which  do  not  show  the 
dust,  and  when  used,  leave  partial  or  no  trace  of  travel  about 
them.  A  light  texture  duster  over-garment  is  commonly 
worn  in  travelling  in  summer. 

In  the  country,  during  the  summer,  the  various  thin  fab- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS.  49 

rics  of  wool,  which  are  made  to  be  worn  that  season,  are 
preferable,  according  to  climate,  to  linen,  being  more  health- 
ful, as  well  as  more  pleasing  to  the  eye.  In  the  fall  or 
winter,  the  shooting  dress  should  consist  of  a  brown,  grey 
or  mixed-colored  cloth,  of  a  firm  but  elastic  texture,  with 
convenient  and  suitable  pockets.  The  trowsers  loose  and 
full ;  but  it  is  an  advantage  to  have  them  so  made  as  to  be 
during  stormy  weather,  conveniently  put  within  the  Zouave 
gaiters  or  long  boots. 
4 


50 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


THE  HUNTING  DRESS. 

Better  to  hunt  in  fields  for  health  unbought, 
Than  fee  the  doctor  for  a  nauseous  draught. 

Anon. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  costume  in  a  gentleman's  wardrobe 
that  is  more  to  be  admired  than  that  worn  by  the  English 
hunter.  Arrayed  in  a  brilliant  scarlet  riding  coat,  buskin 
breeches,  top  boots,  cap,  spurs  and  whip,  he  presents  a  pic- 
ture of  manliness,  courage  and  joyous  hilarity,  which  is  de- 
lightful to  behold.  The  incidents  of  the  hunt  are  beauti- 
ful and  exciting  in  the  highest  degree — the  full  pack  of 
hounds  in  full  pursuit,  making  the  woods  resound  with  the 
music  and  choruses  of  the  chase.  The  sport  is  one  that 
strengthens  the  man  and  invigorates  the  horse,  and  is  rec- 
ognized as  one  of  the  most  manly  that  gentlemen  of  true 
taste  can  enjoy. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


51 


CHAPTER  IX. 


DINNER  DRESS  AND  ADDRESS. 

"  The  various  cares  in  one  great  point  combine, 
The  business  of  their  lives  is — to  dine." 

Young. 

In  the  family  circle,  and  at  our  great  and  fashionable 
hotels,  the  full  dress,  which,  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  was 
deemed  indispensable  where  ladies  appeared  at  table,  has 
gradually  given  place  to  the  demi-mode,  dark  frock  coat, 
silk  vest,  dark  pantaloons,  black  necktie,  and  plain  white 
handkerchief.  At  all  formal  dinners,  where  invitations 
have  been  issued  for  some  days  previous  to  the  event,  the 
dress  will  differ  but  little  from  that  of  the  ball  room,  one  of 
the  essential  points  of  difference  being,  that  the  dress  coat 
is  indispensable  while  the  white  necktie  is  not.  At 
many  of  our  first-class  hotels,  individuals  who  claim  to  be 
considered  fashionable  appear  among  ladies  at  a  late  din- 
ner in  motley  colored  coarse  office  suits,  giving  rise  to  the 
pardonable  suspicion  that  they  have  no  other  clothes 
besides ;  paying  a  very  equivocal  compliment  to  the  fair 
sex,  and  setting  a  bad  example  to  the  rising  generation, 


52 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


who  are  unfortunately  too  prone  in  their  immaturity  of 
judgment  to  show  disrespect,  imagining  it  a  proof  of  inde- 
pendence. Officers  in  the  Army  and  Navy  are  always 
expected  to  appear  at  dinner  where  there  are  ladies,  in  full 
dress  uniform.  Undress  in  the  evening  would  be  quite  in- 
excusable in  them. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


53 


CHAPTER  X. 


"  Come  to  our  fete,  and  bring  with  thee 
Thy  newest,  best  embroidery. 
Come  to  our  fete,  and  show  again 
That  sky-blue  coat,  thou  pink  of  men, 
Which  charmed  all  eyes,  who  last  surveyed  it, 
And  Brummel's  self  inquired,  '  Who  made  it  ?'  " 

Evening  Full  Dress 

Has  always  consisted  of  the  most  elegant  and  appropriate 
costume  the  taste  of  the  epoch  could  devise.  In  ancient 
times,  restrictions  of  color  and  materials  were  unknown, 
and  so  continue  in  the  civil  costume,  in  the  court  circles  of 
the  European  sovereigns.  Black  and  blue  coats  have,  how- 
ever, superseded  all  others  in  the  best  society.  Forty  years 
ago,  small  clothes  and  silk  stockings,  or  light-colored  panta- 
loons, were  invariably  worn  ;  since  that  time  the  black  trou- 
sers or  pantaloons  has  superseded  all  other  dress  in  that  par- 
ticular. 

The  celebrated  "  golden  ball "  introduced  black  velvet 
suits,  with  steel  buttons  and  wrist  ruffles.  This  fashion 
lasted  from  1819  to  1822,  when  it  yielded  to  various  shades 
of  a  rich  purple  or  brown,  with  steel  buttons,  which  in  their 


51 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


turn,  in  a  few  years,  subsided  into  the  present  fashion.  The 
evening  dress,  universally  adopted  by  the  fashionable  world, 
is  as  follows :  A  black  or  blue  fine  cloth  dress-coat,  lined 
with  black  silk,  plain  or  watered  pattern,  the  blue  coat 
having  gold  or  gilt  buttons ;  with  the  black  coat,  a  cut  or 
figured  velvet,  plain  or  figured  silk  or  satin,  or  white  silk, 
satin  or  cassimere  vest;  with  the  blue  coat,  buff  cassimere, 
white  Marseilles,  plain  or  figured  silk  vest  is  appropriate ; 
black  cassimere  pantaloons,  dress  boots  or  shoes,  with  lace 
hose,  white  oriental  tinted  neckcloth,  and  white  shade  kid 
gloves,  are  indispensable  in  the  ball-room.  In  opera  cos- 
tumes, a  black  neck-tie,  lemon  or  light  buff  gloves,  may  be 
worn,  more  particularly  where  the  gentleman  does  not  ac- 
company ladies.  In  evening  costume,  the  cambric  handker- 
chief should  be  purely  white.  The  shirt  front  should  be  of 
the  finest  material,  but  those  to  whom  is  conceded  the  first 
place,  for  good  taste  and  fashion,  eschew  all  other  orna- 
ments to  it  other  than  the  fine  stitch  or  embroidery.  Studs, 
brilliants  or  pearls,  are  not  unfashionable.  As  to  the  use 
of  jewelry,  it  is  difficult  to  decide  how  far  its  adoption  is 
within  good  taste,  but  all  ostentatious  display  should  be  stu- 
diously avoided. 

The  man  of  fine  breeding  is  anxious  to  avoid  any  display 
that  could  be  deemed  vulgar,  from  which  charge  the  mere 
costliness  of  the  jewel  could  not  relieve  him,  whilst  a  gem 
of  art  displays  a  taste  and  refinement  of  judgment  that  the 
vulgar  can  never  rival.    In  all  our  endeavors  to  please,  by 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


55 


our  appearance  and  dress,  the  adaptation  of  our  costume  to 
peculiarities  of  form  becomes  the  first  consideration,  and  to 
all  men  of  sense,  the  praise  conveyed  in  the  small  sentence, 
u  He  is  a  well-dressed  man,"  is  a  compliment  to  his  judgment, 
instinct  of  taste  and  propriety,  that  the  philosopher  need 
not  despise. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  beautiful  blue  coat,  and  gold 
or  gold  gilt  buttons,  with  the  buff  vest,  for  evening  costume, 
will  be  restored  as  the  dress  of  Americans — colors  so  emble- 
matic of  those  under  which  the  independence  of  our  coun- 
try was  won. 


56 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


CHAPTER  XL 


CLERICAL  DRESS. 

Avoid  thee,  fiend,  with  cruel  hand, 
Shake  not  the  dying  sinner's  sand  ; 
Oh !  look,  my  son,  upon  yon  sign, 
Of  thy  Redeemer's  grace  divine, 
Oh  !  think  on  faith  and  bliss. — Scott. 

A  special  dress  for  the  clergy  has  been,  until  within  the 
last  forty  years,  universal.  In  France,  Italy,  Spain,  Canada, 
and  America,  including  other  countries,  the  Catholic 
clergy  wear  the  ancient  clerical  costume  of  the  sutan  and 
cassock,  with  black  bands,  occasionally  edged  with  white,  as 
their  ordinary  dress.  In  the  United  States,  with  the  excep- 
tions, the  custom  does  not  prevail,  and  they  are  only  distin- 
guished from  the  civilians  by  a  black  frock  coat,  with  a 
standing  collar.  The  ministers  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
used  to  dress  in  a  straight  cut  coat,  vest  buttoning  up  to  the 
throat,  made  of  thick  corded  black  silk,  white  neck-cloth, 
small  clothes  and  black  silk  stockings,  or  long  black  gaiters. 
The  hat  was  looped  up  at  the  sides,  leaving  the  brim  wider 
in  front  than  at  the  back ;  and  if  the  wearer  belonged  to  the 
dignity  of  a  D.D.,  a  silk  ribbon  noose  was  placed  on  the  hat- 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


57 


band  in  front.  Added  to  this  dress,  bishops  and  deans  wore 
silk  aprons.  The  ministers  of  the  various  denominations 
have  been  particular  in  their  dress,  except  the  Quakers  and 
the  Methodists,  who  have  been  remarkable  for  their  plain- 
ness. The  vestments  of  the  Catholic  clergy  never  vary,  and 
need  no  immediate  description  here.  Of  the  Episcopal 
Church,  the  black  silk  gown,  the  cassock,  the  surplice  and 
the  hoods  and  scarfs  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have  any  uni- 
formity, varying  in  some  particulars  in  different  diocese. 

The  clergy  should  be  known  by  their  habitual  dress,  which 
should  be  of  black,  and  uniform  in  its  character.  A  black 
single  breasted  frock  coat,  reaching  to  the  knees,  with  stand- 
ing collar,  black  cassimere  pantaloons  or  trowsers,  plain 
black  or  corded  silk  vest,  cut  in  the  old  ecclesiastical  style, 
would  form  a  becoming  and  appropriate  costume.  The 
Bishops  might  be  distinguished  by  a  nearer  approach  to  the 
court-shaped  coat.  The  Catholic  clergy  might  resume  the 
ancient  sutan,  as  in  most  other  nations  of  the  world.  This 
dress  is  both  dignified  and  graceful ;  it  fits  the  form  to 
the  waist ;  hence  it  is  full  and  reaches  to  the  ancle,  and  is 
buttoned  from  the  throat  to  the  end  of  the  skirt,  by  a  row 
of  closely  set  buttons. 


58 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


"Freedom  of  the  press,  freedom  of  person  under  the  protection  of 
habeas  corpus,  and  trial  by  juries  impartially  selected." — Jefferson. 

JUDICIAL  DRESS. 

"  In  the  hands  of  men  truly  great,  the  pen  is  mightier 
than  the  sword."  We  say  that  the  shears  are  more  powerful 
than  either,  or  both,  because  the  shears  conquer  woman, 
and  woman  is  the  mother  of  all  mankind. 

Washington  was  anxious  to  retain  the  old  judicial  dress, 
that  has  come  to  us  from  the  mother  country.  Some  of  his 
coadjutors  opposed  this,  upon  the  ground  that  the  robe  did 
not  constitute  the  man  a  better  or  more  faithful  judge. 
Washington  replied:  "  Nor  does  the  uniform  make  a  soldier, 
but  it  is  a  distinction  of  which  the  soldier  is  honestly 
proud ;"  and  he  prevailed  in  keeping  the  black  silk  gown 
and  black  court  suit,  as  the  official  costume  of  the  judges 
of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court.  We  see,  without  dis- 
sent, the  clergy  of  various  denominations  wearing  the  cleri- 
cal gown  and  bands.  We  almost  enforce  black  as  the  cleri- 
cal garb,  and  yet  we  tolerate  any  colored  dress  in  our  su- 
preme and  superior  courts  of  law.    Formerly  the  New  York 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


59 


sheriff  wore  a  sword  arid  cockade.  Later,  all  the  sheriffs, 
and  deputy  sheriffs,  upon  the  occasion  of  the  execution  of 
criminals,  wear  a  solid  gold  badge  and  locust  baton.  The 
United  States  marshals,  and  others,  a  badge  as  the  emblem 
of  his  authority.  Then  why  should  not  our  legal  function- 
aries wear  that  distinctive  garb,  which  all  other  civilized 
nations  have  adopted,  and  preserved  to  this  day?  If  the 
judges  of  the  higher  tribunals  dressed  in  black  suits,  with 
silk  robes  of  the  same  color,  it  would  certainly  add  to  their 
appearance  and  dignity,  and  be  a  badge  to  their  high  office, 
which  is  now  needed. 


60 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDEESS. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


"  Stores  of  learning  bring  we  home, 
Brought  from  school  and  college." 
"  Make  we  them  a  heaven  on  earth." — Heber. 

COLLEGIATE  DRESS 

Was  universal  in  the  colleges  before  the  revolution.  Co- 
lumbia College,  in  New  York,  and  Harvard,  in  Cambridge, 
Mass.,  are  some  of  the  places  which  have  preserved  the  cus- 
tom, and  this  only  in  a  limited  degree.  At  the  commence- 
ments, the  under-graduates  of  Columbia  College  wear  the 
black  silk  collegiate  gown,  and  the  Oxford  cap.  At  Har- 
vard, the  gown  alone  is  worn,  but  its  use  is  optional  with 
the  students.  In  Canada,  until  lately,  the  full  collegiate  cos- 
tume was  worn  at  the  three  universities,  the  same  as  in  those 
of  Europe. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


61 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


EUROPEAN  AND  AMERICAN  WEDDING  DRESS. 

Oh,  come  ye  in  peace,  or  come  ye  in  war, 

Or  to  dance  at  our  bridal,  young  Lord  Lochinvar  ? 

The  bride  kissed  the  goblet,  the  knight  took  it  up, 

He  quaffed  off  the  wine  and  threw  down  the  eup. 

He  took  her  soft  hand  ere  her  mother  could  bar  ; 

"Now  tread  we  a  measure,"  quoth  young  Lochinvar.  — Scott, 

As  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  great  event  of  matrimony 
will  form  but  one  epoch  in  a  man's  life,  so  ought  it  to  be 
correspondingly  joyful  and  celebrated.  The  gayest  costume 
has  been  adopted  by  both  sexes  in  all  nations  for  the  cele- 
bration of  a  wedding,  while  those  who  acted  the  principal 
role  have  used  as  much  white  as  could  be  introduced  into 
the  wedding  habits.  At  the  present  day,  the  man  of  taste  and 
fashion  wears  the  following  wedding  dress:  a  blue  dress 
coat,  sometimes  lined  with  white  watered  silk,  with  fancy 
gold  or  gold  gilt  buttons,  a  white  figured  satin  or  silk  vest, 
cream  colored  fine  cassimere  pantaloons,  fine  white  silk  or 
lace  hose,  and  full  dress  thin  shoes  in  summer  and  dress 
boots  in  th  e  winter,  white  kid  gloves,  and  white  plain  hand- 
kerchief. All  the  first-class  nobility  of  Europe  are  thus 
dressed  on  this  important  occasion,  at  a  wedding.  In  all  but 


62 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


the  Northern  States  of  our  Union,  a  dislike,  almost  amount- 
ing to  a  horror,  of  black  for  the  dress  of  the  bridegroom  seems 
to  pervade  elite  society,  and  if  the  appropriately  emblematic 
be  good  taste,  nothing  could  be  more  fitting  for  the  event 
than  the  dress  quoted  above — blue,  the  color  of  hope,  and 
white,  the  emblem  of  purity  and  truth.  The  groomsmen 
should  be  dressed  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  same  style. 
Black,  at  least,  should  not  be  worn.  If  in  the  summer,  blue 
dress  coat  with  gold  or  gilt  buttons,  white  Marseilles  vest, 
white  satin  or  jean  pantaloons  with  shoes  or  light  dress  boots, 
would  be  appropriate  and  complimentary  to  the  occasion. 
The  same  dress  with  black  cassimere  pantaloons  in  the  fall 
or  winter  would  be  in  good  taste. 

"  Music  arose  with  its  voluptuous  swell, 

Soft  eyes  looked  love  to  eyes  which  spake  again, 

And  all  went  merry  as  a  marriage  bell." — Byron. 

American  Wedding  Dress. — The  bridegroom  usually 
wears  a  very  fine  black  cloth  (blue  nevertheless  recom- 
mended), dress  body  coat  lined  with  white  silk  or  black 
satin,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  wearer;  white  figured 
silk  or  satin  dress  vest,  fine  black  dress  cassimere  pantaloons, 
(occasionally  pearl  drab  pantaloons  are  worn,)  white  kid 
gloves,  plain  white  lawn,  figured  silk  or  satin  necktie,  patent 
leather  boots,  all  made  in  the  height  of  fashion.  It  is  usual 
for  from  one  to  six  groomsmen  to  be  in  attendance,  all 
dressed  precisely  the  same  as  the  bridegroom,  distinguished 
by  wearing  a  white  rosette  bordered  with  gold  or  ribbon  on 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


03 


the  breast  of  the  coat.  Where  the  lady  has  a  father  and  mo- 
ther, the  father  accompanies  her  to  church,  the  bridegroom 
escorting  the  mother  of  the  bride.  The  bridesmaids  and 
groomsmen  follow  immediately  in  the  rear,  first,  second, 
third  and  fourth  (in  couples)  or  as  the  case  may  be.  In  the 
absence  of  the  father,  some  near  male  relative  gives  the  bride 
away.  On  entering  the  church  the  bridegroom  joins  the 
bride,  she  leaning  on  his  left  arm,  the  bridesmaids  and 
groomsmen  next.  The  father  and  mother  of  the  bride,  or  the 
friend  who  gives  away  the  bride  follow  immediately  after 
they  advance  to  where  the  clergyman  is  standing,  the  first 
bridesmaid  taking  her  position  in  line  to  the  left  of  the  bride. 
The  first  groomsman  proceeds  to  the  right  of  the  bridegroom, 
and  so  on  until  all  are  in  line  with  the  bride  and  bridegroom. 
Either  at  church  or  in  the  parlor,  the  ceremony  is  the  same. 
When  the  ring  is  used,  it  is  the  duty  of  the  first  bridesmaid 
to  remove  the  glove  from  the  left  hand  of  the  bride,  and 
hold  the  same  until  the  ceremony  of  placing  the  ring  is 
completed  by  the  minister.  After  the  benediction  is  pro- 
nounced, the  bridegroom  immediately  salutes  the  bride.  The 
entire  party  retire  in  the  same  manner  in  which  they  came. 
If  there  is  a  reception  at  the  house,  congratulations  are 
not  to  be  offered  in  the  church,  excepting  by  the  clergy- 
man. The  friends  reserve  their  compliments  until  the  bridal 
party  arrive  at  home.  It  is  then  the  immediate  duty  of 
groomsmen  in  attendance  to  meet  the  guests  as  they  arrive, 
introducing  each  by  name  to  the  bride  and  bridegroom. 


64 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


The  friends  so  calling  upon  the  bride  should  bring  with 
them  their  own  visiting  cards  and  hand  the  same  when  met 
by  the  groomsmen.  The  cards  are  afterwards  placed  upon 
the  receiver,  so  that  the  bride  and  bridegroom  can  see  whom 
to  call  upon  in  return.  When  the  wedding  takes  place  at 
the  house  it  is  the  duty  of  the  groomsman  to  send  a  carriage 
for  the  officiating  clergyman,  accompanied  by  one  of  the 
groomsmen  or  a  near  friend  duly  authorized  to  act  in  his 
stead.  This  is  the  proper  time  to  hand  the  clergymen  his 
fee,  sealed  in  an  envelope  or  placed  in  a  suitable  purse. 
The  amount  of  the  fee  is  invariably  left  to  the  generosity 
of  the  bridegroom,  according  to  the  circumstances.  It  is 
not  unusual  for  an  additional  offering  to  be  given  to  the  cler- 
gyman by  the  father  of  the  bride. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS.  65 


CHAPTER  XV. 


LIVERIES. 

"  Verily,  I  swear  'tis  be„ter  to  be  lowly  born, 
And  range  with  humble  livers  in  content, 
Than  to  be  perked  up  in  glistering  grief, 
And  wear  a  golden  sorrow." — King  Henry  VIII. 

"  Apparel  them  all  in  one  livery." 

—King  Henry  VI.,  Part  II. 

The  custom  of  dressing  retainers  and  domestics  in  the  liv- 
ery of  the  family  they  serve  is  of  great  antiquity.  The  Ve- 
netian patricians  did  so  as  early  as  the  year  980.  The  adop- 
tion of  coats  of  arms  was  the  occasion  of  the  custom,  which 
was  brought  into  England  by  the  Normans  in  1080.  The 
coat  that  covered  the  armor  was  emblazoned  with  the  ar- 
morial bearings  of  the  wearer,  and  as  the  vizor  of  his  helmit 
covered  his  face,  and  armor  was  usually  made  of  one  pat- 
tern, this  was  the  only  means  by  which  his  followers  could 
distinguish  their  leader  from  the  other  knights  fighting  with 
him.  The  livery  consisted  of  the  principal  color  and  metal 
of  the  arms,  and  usually  floated  in  the  streamers  in  the  back 
of  the  helmet  of  the  chief.    Thus  in  the  arms  of  the  family 

of  Hamilton,  the  ground  is  red  with  three  white  cinque  upon 
5 


66  FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


it.  The  streamers  were  consequently  white  and  red,  and 
such  is  the  livery  of  that  ancient  family  to  this  day.  The 
arms  of  the  Campbells  of  Argyle  are  a  gyrony  of  eight  pieces, 
gold  and  black ;  the  streamers  are  of  the  same,  and  the 
livery  chocolate  (which  liveries  take  the  place  of  black) 
turned  up  with  yellow.  The  footman  of  the  Hamiltons 
wears  a  court  shaped  white  coat,  collar  and  lining  of  scarlet, 
with  silver  buttons  having  the  crest  or  arms  upon  them,  red 
vest,  and  small  clothes,  white  stockings  and  shoes  with  sil- 
ver buckles.  The  coat  of  the  coachman  is  of  the  frock  shape, 
that  of  the  grooms  the  same,  only  shorter ;  the  coachman's 
dress  in  all  but  the  coat  is  the  same  as  the  footman's ;  the 
grooms  wear  top  boots  and  leather  small  clothes.  In  the 
United  States,  a  simple  livery  has  prevailed,  more  resembling 
the  morning  or  undress  livery  of  the  noble  families  of  Europe, 
such  as  a  drab,  gray,  green  medley  or  blue  coat  with  the  liv- 
ery buttons  ;  a  vest  with  the  color  of  the  arms. 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


67 


CHAPTER  XVI 


FUNERAL  DRESS. 

"  The  solitary,  silent,  solemn  scene, 

Where  Csesars,  heroes,  peasants  lie 

Blended  in  dust  together  ;  where  the  insulting  proud 

Resigns  his  power,  the  miser  drops  his  hoard, 

Where  human  folly  sleeps." — Dyer. 

Upon  this  occasion,  full  mourning  must  be  worn  by  the 
near  relatives  of  the  deceased.  This  consists  of  a  black 
dress  coat,  cassimere  vest,  and  pantaloons  of  the  same  color. 
At  the  funeral  formerly,  the  costume  was  a  black  silk  band, 
with  large  ends,  around  the  hat,  and  a  scarf  of  the  same  ma- 
terial, across  the  right  shoulder,  the  ends  on  the  left  side 
tied  with  ribbon ;  the  more  distant  relatives  and  friends  of 
the  deceased  had  the  scarf  of  lute-string  silk.  If  the  de- 
ceased was  young  and  unmarried,  the  hat  bands  and  scarfs 
were  of  white  lawn,  or  linen ;  the  weed  or  crape  on  the  hat 
worn  by  a  widower  reached  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the 
top  of  the  hat ;  for  a  parent,  the  depth  of  the  hat  band  being 
somewhat  less,  the  other  relatives  remaining  in  mourning 
for  three  months ;  the  handkerchief  is  bordered  with  purple 
or  black ;  the  gloves  in  undress  are  black,  purple  or  slate 


68 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


color,  and  in  full  dress,  pearl  gray  or  lavender,  sewed  with 
black. 

Mourning  should  be  worn,  as  we  are  told  by  a  professed 
authority, 

"  For  a  husband  or  wife,  from  one  to  two  years,  though 
some  widows  retain  mourning  for  life. 

"  For  a  parent  or  grandparent,  from  six  months  to  a  year. 

"  For  children  above  ten  years  of  age,  from  six  months  to 
a  year ;  for  those  below  that  age,  from  three  to  six  months  ; 
for  an  infant,  six  or  seven  weeks. 

"For  brothers  and  sisters,  six  to  eight  months. 

"For  cousins,  or  uncles,  or  aunts,  related  by  marriage, 
from  six  weeks  to  three  months. 

"  For  more  distant  relatives  or  friends,  from  three  weeks 
to  as  many  months,  according  to  the  degree  of  intimacy." 

"  The  servants  are  ordinarily  put  in  mourning,  by  those 
who  can  afford  it,  on  the  death  of  an  important  member  of 
the  family.  The  nurse  only  in  the  case  of  the  death  of 
young  children." 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


69 


CE AFTER  XVII. 


THE  CODE  OF  FASHIONABLE  INTERCOURSE. 

"  Let's  do  it  after  the  Roman  fashion." — Anthony  and  Cleopatra. 
"  Oh !  visionary  as  the  airy  dagger  of  Macbeth,  yet  absolute  as  the 
law  of  the  Medes,  is  this  omniscient  goddess  of  our  nether  world — this 
insuperable  ruler  of  our  destinies — Fashion." 

When  a  great  French  wit  and  philosopher  was  asked 
what  constituted  a  true  gentleman,  he  replied:  "He  who 
has  the  most  easy  and  graceful  manner  of  unostentatiously 
demonstrating  a  good  heart."  In  this  sentence  is  summed  up 
all  that  society  calls  upon  her  children  to  observe  towards 
each  other,  and  all  its  rules  of  government  are  but  manifes- 
tations of  this  one  great  principle.  He  who  derives  not 
pleasure  from  the  happiness  of  those  about  him,  is  no  true 
gentleman,  nor  is  it  possible  for  a  gentleman  to  be  regardless 
of  the  feelings  of  those  with  whom  he  associates.  It  thus 
appears  that  the  "  primum  mobile"  of  the  well-bred  man  of 
fashion  is  the  hope  of  his  own  rights  being  respected  in  re- 
turn for  the  respect  shown  to  the  rights  of  others.  It  is 
easier  to  go  happy  through  the  world  than  is  generally  cred- 
ited ;  and  selfishness,  egotism  and  self-conceited  indulgence 


70 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


in  youth,  have  proven  the  source  of  more  mischief  to  indi- 
viduals, and  pain  to  society,  than  the  unthinking  can  con- 
ceive. In  fact,  good  breeding  and  faultless  gentleman-like 
demeanor  are  the  offspring  of  a  kindly  heart. 

Shaftesbury  once  wrote  that  "  the  taste  for  beauty  and  the 
relish  for  what  is  decent,  just  and  amiable,  perfects  the  char- 
acter of  the  gentleman  and  the  philosopher  ;  and  the  study 
of  such  a  taste  or  relish  will  ever  be  the  great  employment 
and  concern  of  him  who  covets  as  well  to  be  wise  and  good 
as  agreeable  and  polite." 

"  In  no  country  in  the  world  are  general  good  manners  so 
indispensable  as  in  this  democratic  country.  In  Europe, 
where,  in  society,  as  at  the  railway  stations,  different  classes 
are  recognized  and  kept  apart  by  insurmountable  barriers 
and  vigilant  guards,  it  is  possible,  if  you  happen  to  be 
among  the  high-bred  "  firsts,"  or  decent  "seconds,"  to  endure 
the  existence  of  the  unruly  "thirds."  These  last,  in  fact, 
when  viewed  at  a  convenient  remoteness  of  distance,  are  not 
without  their  interest. 

"  Their  unkempt  hair,  blotched  and  greasy  suits,  rude 
manners,  and  coarse  vernacular,  are  parts  of  the  European 
picture,  and  by  their  homely  manners,  as  well  as  the  con- 
trast they  afford  to  the  brilliancy  of  their  superiors,  seem  es- 
sential to  its  effects.  To  look  at  a  rough  and  unwashed, 
from  safe  distance,  of  European  social  distinction,  by  which 
he  is  toned  down  to  the  picturesqueness  of  one  of  Murillo's 
lousy  beggar  boys,  is  one  thing;  it  is  quite  another,  how- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


71 


ever,  to  have  him  at  your  elbow  on  railway  and  at  hotel 
where  you  can  hear,  feel,  and  smell  him.  It  is  obvious, 
therefore,  that  the  rough  and  dirty  are  quite  out  of  place  in 
this  country,  where,  if  they  exist,  they  are  sure  to  be  close 
at  your  side.  Universal  cleanliness  and  good  manners  are 
essential  to  a  pure  democracy.  This  must  be  generally  rec- 
ognized and  acted  upon,  or  the  refined  will  seek  in  other 
countries  the  exclusiveness  which  will  secure  for  them  that 
nicety  of  life  essential  to  its  enjoyment,  and  we  shall  be  left 
alone,  to  wallow  in  our  own  brutality  and  foulness. 

"There  is  no  reason  why  propriety  of  manners  should  not 
be  as  general  in  the  United  States,  as  it  is  exclusive  in  most 
countries.  With  our  facility  of  mixture,  any  leaven  we 
have  can  be  easily  made  to  pervade  the  whole  mass. 
There  is  no  vested  right,  in  this  country  at  least,  in  decency 
and  cleanliness.  We  can  all  be,  if  we  please,  what  we  are 
so  fond  of  calling  ourselves,  gentlemen  and  ladies." — Book  of 
Decorum. 

The  gentleman,  par  excellence,  enters  society  with  the  de- 
sire to  please  and  be  pleased ;  in  fact  to  pay  in  kind  the 
gratification  he  seeks.  A  code  of  implied  rather  than 
written  laws,  have  by  universal  consent  of  the  fashionable 
world  of  all  nations,  been  formed  to  carry  out  its  intentions. 
An  especial  aptitude  for  application  of  these  laws  seems,  to 
the  casual  observer,  to  be  of  greater  facility  in  some  nations 
than  others — hence  we  say  he  is  as  polite  as  a  Frenchman, 
and  when  we  hear  an  individual  condemn  politeness  and 


72 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


good  breeding  in  others,  it  may  be  taken  as  a  self-accusa- 
tion on  his  part  of  some  habitual  violation  of  good  manners 
or  equal  justice.  The  laws  of  good  breeding  may  be  aptly 
called,  "  The  philosophy  of  social  intercourse."  In  this 
country,  the  better  observances  of  society  are  too  often  en- 
croached upon  by  an  under-current  of  political  or  commer- 
cial influences,  which  are  not  apparent  on  their  face,  but 
which  are  immediately  perceived  when  pointed  out  by  the 
close  observer. 

"  The  Americans  have  followed  to  some,  though  not  to 
this  absurd  extent,  the  example  of  their  trans- Atlantic 
relatives.  We  are  by  no  means  so  reserved  as  they.  Dem- 
ocratic friction  has  necessarily  broken  up  and  rubbed  off  a 
good  deal  of  the  original  crustiness  of  our  nature.  Casual 
intercourse  between  strangers  in  America  is  much  more 
free  than  in  England.  The  American  is  as  wanting,  as  the 
Englishman  is  abounding  in  reserve.  The  proper  medium 
is  between  familiarity  and  resistance.  In  travelling,  Eng- 
lish constraint  is  often  fatal  to  the  general  ease  and  cheer- 
fulness, while  American  freedom  is  not  seldom  subversive 
of  personal  comfort.  In  the  close  proximity  of  a  railway 
carriage,  two  persons  can  make  themselves  mutually  agree- 
able, without  any  sacrifice  of  personal  dignity,  and  it  is  cer- 
tainly their  duty  to  do  so.  The  concessions  on  all  such 
occasions  are,  of  course,  to  be  considered  temporary.  They 
are  drafts  at  sight  on  each  other's  courtesy,  to  be  paid  at 
date,  and  received  as  a  final  settlement,  which  bars  all  ulte- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


rior  clauses.  The  Americans  generally  are  too  indiscrim- 
inate in  their  introductions.  They  seldom  allow  two 
strangers  to  be  together  a  moment  without  introducing 
them  to  each  other.  No  presentations  should  be  made 
without  a  regard  to  the  mutual  fitness  and  probable  accept- 
ability of  the  acquaintanceship  about  to  be  formed." 

One  of  these  influences  may  be  seen  in  the  indiscriminate 
introductions  so  commonly  made,  and  which  are  intended 
hj  the  introducer  to  be  taken  as  future  claims  upon  the 
acquaintance  of  his  special  friends. 

"  Friendship  is  a  plant  the  growth  of  every  clime  ; 
Happy  is  the  man  that  can  rear  a  few." 

This  renders  an  introduction,  leading  to  intercourse 
between  friends,  a  matter  of  some  difficulty,  and 
causes  great  stress  to  be  laid  on  the  sincerity 
of  its  intentions.  The  admitted  laws  of  the  best 
society  governing  the  introduction  of  one  gentleman  to 
another,  are  simple :  The  mutual  friend  asks  the  older  or 
more  influential  of  those  to  be  brought  together,  if  he  has 

any  objection  to  be  introduced  to  Mr.  .  and  if  both. 

assent,  then  the  introduction  takes  place.  It  may  happen 
that  without  this  mode  of  proceeding,  great  embarrassment 
may  be  produced.  Upon  entering  a  drawing-room,  all  per- 
sonal resentments  against  those  you  may  find  there  must 
cease.  Every  true  gentleman  owes  it  to  society  not  to 
bring  his  quarrels  to  disturb  the  peace  of  those  who  have 
never  offended  him.    The  accomplished  gentleman  never 


74 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


makes  personal  or  invidious  remarks  upon  any  .one  in 
the  company  in  which  he  may  find  himself.  All  who  hear 
such  remarks  are  displeased,  and  naturally  imagine  that 
their  turn  to  be  censured  or  ridiculed  may  come  next. 

Every  person  meeting  at  the  house  of  a  mutual  friend,  is 
upon  an  equality  with  those  present,  and  has  a  right  to 
address  any  member  of  the  company  without  an  introduc- 
tion. When  they  have  quitted  the  house,  there  exists  no 
right  of  acquaintance,  without  a  formal  introduction  by 
mutual  consent. 

Upon  entering  a  drawing-room,  the  invited  guest  seeks 
the  lady  of  the  house,  and  bows  to  her.  At  assemblies, 
balls,  and  large  parties,  it  is  not  incumbent  on  him  to  take 
leave  of  her  upon  his  departure,  but  after  a  dinner  party  a 
bow  is  made  to  the  host  and  hostess  on  taking  leave  of 
them.  The  day  after  the  party,  it  is  etiquette  to  pay  the 
compliment  of  leaving  your  card  at  the  house  of  your 
entertainer.  \ 

Never  offer  your  hand  to  a  lady.  It  is  her  place  to  offer 
hers  to  you,  if  the  intimacy  will  warrant  it,  aud  if  she 
should  not  do  so,  you  must  not  think  yourself  slighted.  It 
is  probably  an  option  on  her  part,  upon  which  she  is  sole 
judge.  At  a  dinner  party,  the  guest  conducts  to  the  table 
such  lady  as  the  host  introduces  him  to.  He  hands  her  to  a 
chair,  and  takes  a  seat  beside  and  to  the  left  of  her.  Some 
tact  is  required  by  an  entertainer  to  bring  those  together 
who  will  be  congenial  to  each  other,  for  upon  such  a  cir- 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


75 


cumstance  depends  the  happiness  of  those  present,  and  the 
success  of  the  entertainment.  Where  there  are  several 
strangers  at  table,  the  commencement  of  the  conversation  is 
necessarily  much  restrained.  Some  pleasant  anecdote  or 
witty  remark,  free  from  all  personal  reflections,  produces  a 
smile,  and  banishes  reserve,  and  enables  the  host,  with  a 
little  tact,  to  put  conversation  into  a  channel  that  will  make 
the  entertainment  a  true  feast.  Never  become  a  lecturer  at 
the  dinner  table  ;  never  talk  of  yourself,  nor  let  your  anec- 
dotes be  personal ;  lead  the  conversation  into  subjects  that, 
if  all  cannot  converse  upon,  they  may  at  least  all  feel  an 
interest  in.  Politics,  religion,  or  any  subject  that  might 
produce  acrimony  of  feeling,  all  personal  references  to  pri- 
vate individuals,  their  dress,  manners,  eccentricities,  or 
deficiencies,  are  repugnant  to  good  breeding,  and  betray  an 
ignorance  of  the  best  society,  as  well  as  a  paucity  of  judg- 
ment and  kindness  of  heart  in  the  author.  You  have  no 
right  to  constitute  yourself  the  censor  morum  and  corrector 
of  the  violations  of  strict  decorum  in  society.  The  polished 
gentleman  will  show  his  distaste  for  unpalatable  comments 
or  satirical  remarks,  by  making  no  reply  to  them,  and  turn- 
ing the  conversation  to  some  more  appropriate  theme. 
This  he  should  do  without  look  or  gesture,  implying  a 
rebuke  to  the  person  with  whom  he  was  conversing.  The 
gentleman  who  is  known  always  to  act  as  above  stated,  soon 
relieves  himself  from  being  the  recipient  of  scandal,  and  this 
even  without  losing  the  respect  of  him  whom  he  so  delicately 


76 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


rebukes.  He  or  she  who  tells  you  a  scandalous  tale,  pays 
you  the  equivocal  compliment  of  believing  that  your  own 
conscience  needs  to  be  flattered  by  a  comparison  with  the 
faults  of  your  friends  to  quiet  its  own  accusations.  Conver- 
sational powers  are  not  given  alike  to  all,  and  it  must  be 
remembered  that  good  and  appreciative  listeners  are  admir- 
able adjuncts  to  those  who  have  the  art  of  entertaining  a 
party.  A  little  tact  and  observation  will  give  a  facility  in 
bringing  out  the  mines  of  wit  and  joyous  humor  in  many, 
who,  without  a  fostering  care,  would  remain  hidden  from 
society.  As  the  true  gentleman  purchases  his  rank  by  his 
acknowledgment  of  and  deference  to  the  rights  of  others,  so 
should  he,  however  witty  and  well-informed,  not  usurp 
more  than  his  fair  share  of  the  conversation.  If  some  at 
table  are  particularly  dull,  or  their  attempts  at  wit  fail "  of 
achieving  success,  his  resumption  of  the  conversation  is  a 
paid  compliment  of  a  higher  appreciation  of  the  preceding 
example.  If  a  guest  is  particularly  amusing,  do  not  praise 
him  by  any  compliment  to  his  talent  or  powers,  nor  thank 
him  for  the  entertainment  he  has  afforded ;  it  is  both  ill- 
bred  and  unnecessary  to  do  so.  The  pleasure  and  reward 
awarded  to  such  a  person  has  been  amply  repaid  by  the 
gratification  which  he  has  been  able  to  contribute  to  those 
around  him.  The  man  of  refinement  shrinks  from  being 
looked  upon  as  a  professional  jester. 

Let  your  attention  at  table  be  equally  shown  to  all  near 
you;  particularly  to  the  ladies.    Learn  to  carve  well,  and 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


■77 


know  the  delicate  parts  of  game  and  fowl,  that  you  may 
be  able  to  distribute  them  amongst  as  many  of  your  guests 
as  possible ;  this  is  necessary,  for,  although  all  may  not  be 
able  to  appreciate  them,  yet  none  are  insensible  to  the  com- 
pliment which  the  attention  displays  as  a  mark  of  personal 
consideration.  However  good  a  jest,  or  witty  a  story  may 
be,  if  it  ever,  in  the  remotest  degree,  brings  ridicule  upon 
religion,  it  should  be  by  all  means  avoided.  Such  jokes  are* 
most  unbecoming  for  a  gentleman  ;  they  wound  the  feelings 
of  the  good,  and  are  fraught  with  danger  to  the  young  and 
thoughtless.  Your  deportment  at  table  cannot  be  wrong 
when  you  keep  in  mind  the  duties  which  you  owe  to  those 
around  you.  It  would  be  condescension  to  assume  that  the 
children  of  respectable  parents  should  be  informed  why  they 
should  not  use  their  own  knives  to  cut  the  food  which  others 
are  to  eat ;  to  eat  with  the  knife  instead  of  the  fork,  to  take 
the  delicacies  at  the  table  to  the  exclusion  of  others,  and 
similar  gaucheries  ;  for  to  such,  the  end  of  becoming  orna- 
ments to  society  is  all  but  impossible.  In  your  attentions  to 
others,  ostentation  is  always  vulgar ;  let  your  acts  be  spon- 
taneous, and  the  rights  and  happiness  of  those  around  you 
the  inspiring  cause.  Offer  the  best  to  those  at  your  table, 
but  never  press  them  to  take  anything  which  they  have  once 
declined  ;  your  own  taste  is  not  that  of  your  guest  in  every 
particular.  If  you  offer  wine  to  one  who  declares  that  u  he 
tastes  no  intoxicating  drinks,"  do  not  presume  to  term  his 
abstinence  a  folly,  for  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  it  is  fortunate 


78 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


lor  his  friends  and  himself  that  he  has  made  such  a  resolu- 
tion. Be  most  cautious  never  to  quote  yourself  as  an 
example  of  superior  morals.  People  will  always  think  of 
F6nelon's  maxim,  "  That  no  man  is  so  tenacious  of  his 
possessions  as  he  who  has  a  doubt  as  to  his  right  to  them." 
The  custom  of  inviting  persons  to  drink  wine  with  you  has 
partially  gone  out  of  fashion.  Indeed  it  was  necessary  to 
protect  the  host,  but  if  you  be  asked  by  one  who  does  not 
know  the  fact,  do  not  refuse.  You  need  do  no  more  than  put 
the  glass  to  your  lips.  There  is  nothing  more  vulgar  in 
society,  than  doubting  the  facts  related  in  a  jest,  or  anecdote, 
or  any  attempt  at  correcting  the  narrator  in  any  part  of  the 
story,  or  declaring  it  to  be  old  and  well  known.  You  have 
not  with  you  the  sympathy  of  the  party,  and  it  is  a  well- 
known  fact  that  these  marplots  seldom  add  anything  to  the 
pleasures  of  social  intercourse.  Do  not  make  a  laughing- 
stock of  any  one  in  the  company,  however  ridiculous  he  may 
appear.  The  only  rebuke  allowable  to  a  bore,  is  to  let  his 
dulness  pass  without  attention,  and  the  most  inveterate 
dullard  looses  courage  when  he  finds  himself  without  listen- 
ers. Never  press  any  one  to  relate  a  story  or  witticism,  or 
sing,  and  if  asked  yourself,  you  should  speedily  conclude  if 
it  would  be  acceptable,  or  otherwise,  and  decide  accordingly. 
Ask  no  one  to  sing  or  speak  whom  you  know  to  be  incom- 
petent. No  gentleman  inflicts  pain  upon  society  by  giving 
annoyance  to  one  of  its  members.  Never  solicit  the  opinions 
of  those  present  upon  the  singing,  or  playing  abilities  of  one 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


79 


who  has  been  solicited  to  entertain  the  company,  and  always 
remember,  that  if  he  was  not  perfect  in  his  efforts,  he  had 
shown  a  disposition  in  endeavoring  to  please.  Be  cautions 
only  to  laugh  and  applaud  in  the  right  place.  Do  not  inter- 
rupt another  while  speaking ;  if  your  friend  be  prosy,  let 
him  serve  as  an  example  to  be  avoided. 


80 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


In  the  drawing-room  the  conversation  will  be  broken  into 
coteries,  and  you  will  have  the  opportunity  of  selecting  that 
most  congenial  to  your  taste.  If  a  lady  is  led  to  the  piano- 
forte to  sing  or  play,  listen  to  her,  at  least,  in  silence,  and 
remember  that  if  the  execution  fall  below  your  standard, 
the  longest  cantata  or  concerto  never  lasted  over  five  minutes, 
and  cheerfully  sacrifice  that  brief  period.  Never  join  in 
pressing  the  timid  or  reluctant  to  sing.  If  you  succeed,  you 
will  seldom  be  repaid  for  your  trouble ;  for  confidence  is  so 
necessary  to  success,  that  without  it,  talent  sinks  into 
mediocrity ;  besides,  it  is  unkind  to  inflict  pain  on  a  nervous 
temperament  If  you  have  not  a  good  knowledge  of  the  fine 
arts,  do  not  assume  a  critical  and  favorable  judgment  of  the 
works  of  your  host  or  hostess.  It  may  elicit  a  severe  criticism 
from  those  better  informed,  to  the  pain  of  those  whom  you 
thought  to  please.  If  you  wish  to  praise,  simply  say  it 
pleases  you ;  this  leaves  your  taste  and  not  the  work  to  be 
questioned.  If  the  conversation  in  the  drawing-room  be 
upon  literary  subjects,  never  dogmatize  nor  make  your 
praise  or  blame  suggestive,  and  let  your  observations  be  as 
brief  as  circumstances  will  allow.    If  you  are  not  prepared 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDEESS.  81 

to  speak  from  experience  upon  the  topic  under  discussion, 
elicit  information  by  suggestion  to  those  better  informed. 
By  this  plan,  judiciously  carried  out,  great  and  profitable 
pleasure  may  be  elicited.  Never  stigmatize  as  useless  the- 
studies  and  pursuits  of  any  man,  but  remember  that  they 
who  are  best  informed,  obtain  their  knowledge  from  the 
many  toiling  intellects  which  have  been  engaged  for  a  life 
upon  special  studies.  The  well-informed  gentleman  will 
never  raise  a  discussion  in  society  that  could  excite  heated 
arguments.  His  suggestions  should  alone  lead  to  eliciting 
the  truth  upon  scientific  and  literary  matters.  Upon  all 
subjects  in  which  the  faculties  of  observation  are  called 
forth,  the  fair  sex  have  a  great  advantage  over  the  other,  as 
they  have  also  in  affairs  of  the  heart.  A  moderately  well- 
informed  lady  is,  therefore,  far  in  advance  of  gentlemen  up- 
on these  subjects,  and  much  may  be  learned  from  her.  In 
the  reflective  faculties  man  is  generally  in  advance  of 
woman.  If  gentlemen  of  mind  would  mildly  discourage 
the  propensity  of  young  ladies  to  make  dress  and  the  pecu- 
liarities of  their  acquaintances  their  drawing-room  conver- 
sation, they  would  prefer  silence  to  losing  the  respect  of  the 
other  sex ;  few  men  of  sense  choose  a  foolish  wife,  and  as 
few  would  refuse  a  discreetly  silent  and  amiable  one. 
6 


82 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


THE  BALL-ROOM  DRESS  AND  ADDRESS. 

"On  with  the  dance,  let  joy  be  unconfined, 
No  sleep  till  morn,  when  youth  and  pleasure  meet, 
To  «hase  the  glowing  hours,  with  flying  feet." — Byron. 

Many  of  the  foregoing  remarks  are  as  applicable  to  the. 
ball-room  as  the  drawing-room.  There,  also,  conversation 
is  in  parties,  and,  at  intervals,  between  the  gentleman  and 
his  partner.  If  a  lady  exhibits  great  vanity,  the  impulse  to 
compliment  her  is  almost  irresistible,  but  it  should  be 
avoided  ;  you  should  endeavor  to  lead  the  conversation 
into  other  channels,  incidental  to  the  occasion, — the  drama, 
the  opera,  music,  etc.  When  a  gentleman  seeks  to  be  in- 
troduced to  a  lady  for  the  purpose  of  dancing  with  her,  she 
may,  without  offence  to  him,  refuse  the  mediation  of  his 
friend  in  the  matter.  If  a  gentleman,  who  is  casually 
acquainted  with  a  lady,  ask  her  to  dance  and  she  declines, 
he  would  understand  that  some  affair  of  the  heart  stands  in 
the  way,  and  he  affably  assents  to  her  wishes.  If  a  lady 
should  forget  an  engagement  she  had  made  and  should  ac- 
cept another  gentleman,  and  if  he  should  not  relinquish  her 
hand  upon  an  intimation  of  the  fact,  as  he  is  bound  to  do, 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


83 


the  man  of  true  gentlemanly  feeling  yields  with  grace,  and 
seeks  the  cause  of  the  mistake  in  order  to  divest  her  of  her 
embarrassment.    In  fact  every  gentleman  is  bound  to  avoid 
scenes  in  public,  and  they  who  sacrifice  the  comfort  of  a 
lady  to  their  resentments  in  an  assembly,  should  be  avoided 
by  both  sexes.    Never  address  a  young  lady  as  "Miss" 
without  her  Christian  or  surname  added ;  it  is  a  footman's 
politeness.   Madam  is  applicable  to  both  single  and  married 
ladies,  but  if  you  do  not  know  the  name,  inform  yourself 
before  you  address  her.    A  gentleman  should  not  ask  a 
lady  to  dance  with  him  several  times  in  the  same  evening ; 
it  is  embarrassing  to  her  and  her  friends.    To  ask  a  lady 
twice  is  as  much  as  a  considerate  gentleman  should  do.  If 
a  gentleman  is  paying  attention  to  a  lady,  and  is  not  en- 
gaged to  her,  he  would  not  be  justified  in  engrossing  her 
whole  attention  in  the  ball-room ;  it  holds  her  up  to  painful 
observation,  and  renders  her  liable  to  invidious  remarks,  if 
no  engagement  follows,  and  places  him  in  the  odious  light 
of  a  male  flirt.    After  dancing  with  a  lady,  conduct  her  to 
a  seat  near  her  family  or  chaperone,  and  leave  her  with  a 
bow  when  her  hand  is  claimed  for  the  succeeding  dance. 
Never  dance  with  a  lady  without  light  kid  gloves ;  never 
swing  your  partner  round  in  the  dance,  nor  be  guilty  of  any 
other  breach  of  etiquette  that  will  subject  her  to  imperti- 
nent remarks,  or  make  her  conspicuous.    If  much  pleased 
with  a  lady,  you  may  ask  her  mother's  permission  to  call 
upon  her  the  following  day.   If  she  reply,  "  We  are  seldom 


81 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


at  home,"  or  any  other  observation  that  does  not  imply  con- 
sent, there  the  acquaintance  must  cease,  a  polite  refusal 
being  implied.  In  handing  a  lady  to  her  carriage,  bow  to 
her  immediately  as  she  enters ;  to  detain  her  in  conversa- 
tion, or  any  time  exposed  to  the  air,  after  leaving  a  heated 
ball-room,  might  endanger  her  health. 

"  Welcome  the  coming  and  hasten  the  departing  guest." 
"  Genteel  in  personage, 
Conduct  and  equipage." — Carey. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


85 


CHAPTER  XX. 


THE  PROMENADE  DRESS. 

"Awkward,  embarrassed,  stiff,  without  the" skill 
Of  moving  gracefully,  or  standing  still ; 
One  leg  as  if  suspicious  of  his  brother, 
Desirous  seems  to  run  away  from,  t'other." — Churchill. 

When  ladies  are  walking  alone,  unless  they  be  near 
relatives  or  intimate  friends,  the  recognition  must  come  first 
from  them  to  the  gentleman.  If  they  do  not  recognize  him 
he  has  no  cause  for  offence ;  it  is  a  right  which  he  cannot 
call  in  question.  If  ladies  are  with  a  father  or  brother, 
then  they  are  visible  to  all  who  know  them,  and  may  be 
addressed.  When  accompanying  ladies  in  a  promenade,  it 
is  not  the  custom  to  offer  to  them  your  arm  in  the  United 
States,  although  the  reverse  is  the  fashion  throughout 
Europe  ;  and  a  lady  walking  by  your  side  without  your 
arm,  would  give  great  offence  to  her  friends,  and  be  deemed 
an  unpardonable  omission.  In  assisting  a  lady  into  her 
carriage,  you  offer  her  your  right  arm,  and  necessarily  dis- 
engage her  skirts  from  any  little  impediment. 


86 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


In  walking  with  a  lady  through,  the  streets,  place  her  on 
the  inside  of  the  walk  to  protect  her  from  annoyance ;  gen- 
tlemen walking  with  ladies  should  not  observe  any  little  in- 
solence that  may  occur  that  would  subject  her  to  annoying 
observation.  They  may  be  grateful  for  your  energy  and 
courage,  but  will  avoid  trusting  themselves  with  you  a 
second  time. 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


87 


CHAPTER  XXL 


THE  ETIQUETTE  OF  CARRIAGE  AND  EQUESTRIAN  EXER- 
CISES. 

"  But  Coach  !    Coach !    Coach  ! 
Oh,  for  a  coach,  ye  gods  !  " — Carey. 

"  He  does  allot  for  every  exercise 

A  sev'ral  hour,  for  sloth,  the  nurse  of  vicas 

And  rust  of  action,  is  a  stranger  to  him." — Massinger. 

The  gentleman  having  handed  the  lady  into  the  carriage 
in  the  manner  before  mentioned,  places  her  farthest  from 
the  open  door,  and  seats  himself  beside  her ;  if  there  are 
two  ladies,  he  sits  opposite  to  them,  giving  them  the  rear 
seats.  In  accompanying  a  lady  on  horseback,  some  little 
skill  is  necessary  in  assisting  her  in  seating  herself  grace- 
fully and  conveniently  in  her  saddle.  The  lady  having  dis-- 
engaged  her  feet  from  the  riding-habit,  takes  the  reins  in 
her  right  hand,  holding  her  robes  in  the  left.  She  puts  her 
hand  upon  the  shoulder  of  the  horse,  and,  slightly  raising 
the  left  foot,  the  gentleman  gently  assists  her  to  vault  into 
the  saddle.  As  soon  as  she  has  arranged  her  position  upon 
the  saddle,  the  gentleman  places  the  stirrup  upon  the  left 
foot,  and  then  arranges  her  drapery,  in  windy  weather, 


88 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


fastening  it  under  her  feet,  with  a  shawl  pin.  Some  taste 
and  tact  are  required  in  doing  this  last  service,  so  as  to 
leave  the  skirt  free  and  graceful.  In  dismounting,  you  take 
the  broach  from  the  skirt  and  release  the  left  foot  from  be- 
ing encumbered  by  the  habit.  The  lady  disengages  herself 
from  the  pomel  of  the  saddle,  and,  standing  in  the  stirrup, 
the  gentleman  takes  her  by  the  waist  with  both  hands,  and 
whilst  she  makes  her  skirts  shorter,  assists  her  to  reach  the 
ground.  Whilst  riding  with  a  lady,  place  her  horse  on  your 
right ;  it  is  easier  for  her  to  converse  with  you  on  that  side 
than  on  the  other.  Always  accommodate  the  pace  of  your 
horse  to  that  of  the  lady's  ;  if,  however,  you  are  riding  by  a 
line  of  carriages,  you  must  place  your  fair  charge  farthest 
from  the  vehicles. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


89 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


THE  ETIQUETTE  OF  COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY. 

"  Oh,  the  day*  are  gone  when  beauty  bright  my  heart's  chain  wove, 
When  the  dream  of  life,  from  morn  to  night,  was  love,  still  love. 
Oh,  flowers  may  bloom,  and  skies  may  gleam  with  purer,  brighter  beam, 
But  there's  nothing  half  so  sweet  in  life  as  love's  young  dream." 

By  all  the  laws  of  Society,  a  gentleman  of  true  principles 
has  a  right  to  ascertain  the  physical  and  moral  and  mental 
qualifications  of  a  young  lady,  before  he  commits  himself  to 
a  courtship,  from  which  an  honorable  man  finds  a  difficulty 
in  disengaging  himseif.  The  course  a  true  gentleman  should 
pursue  under  such  circumstances,  is  to  observe  the  respect 
and  attention  due  to  the  lady  and  her  family.  We  are 
bound  not  to  permit  an  innocent  and  unsuspecting  girl  to 
remain  one  day  without  parental  advice  and  protection  in 
this  most  trying  epoch  in  her  life.  So  soon  as  a  gentleman 
feels  that  the  sentiment  a  young  lady  has  inspired  in  him 
may  lead  to  an  ultimate  union,  he  should  make  known  his 
wishes  to  her  father,  and  ask  if  his  attentions  meet  with  the 
approval  of  her  parents.  This  is  necessary  upon  two 
grounds ;  it  is  due  to  them,  and  will  prevent  the  pain  of  a 
refusal  and  consequent  disappointment,  which  might  occur 


90 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


at  a  more  advanced  period.  In  the  United  States  the  cus- 
toms attending  courtships  differ  materially  from  those  of 
Europe.  For  the  actual  happiness  of  both  parties,  the  gen- 
tleman should  not  take  the  lady  out  riding  in  a  carriage  alone 
or  on  horseback,  until  an  actual  engagement  has  taken 
place.  So  long  as  fashion  sanctions  a  young  man  in  his  at- 
tentions to  the  lady  of  his  choice,  he  should  observe  that 
punctilious  demeanor  towards  her,  as  not  to  compromise  her 
in  society.  Parents  love  their  daughters  dearly,  that  they 
fear  as  much  to  have  their  affections  blighted,  as  they  do  to 
have  their  fame  called  in  question.  The  educated  and  con- 
scientious gentleman  of  mature  judgment,  the  high-toned 
man  of  honor,  would  never  tempt  an  unsuspecting  girl  to 
elope  with  him ;  in  so  doing,  he  risks  his  reputation,  and 
their  own  happiness,  while  he  gives  the  severest  blow  to 
that  of  her  parents,  who  he  must  remember  are  entitled  to 
her  first  confidence  and  his  respect.  The  daughter  may  be 
forgiven  after  a  lapse  of  time,  but  the  act  can  never  be  j  us- 
tified. 

The  polite  gentleman  should  be  well  assured  that  he  pos- 
sesses the  lady's  love  before  he  asks  her  hand.  If  the  lady 
refuse  him,  he  should  allow  no  resentment,  however  much 
his  feelings  may  suffer.  Where  so  important  and  solemn  a 
step  as  a  fate  for  life  is  decided  on,  the  lady  should  have 
the  right  of  full  reflection,  and  if  a  doubt  of  ultimate  happi- 
ness should  cross  her  mind,  she  has  a  full  justification,  at 
the  last  hour,  in  declining  the  proffered  hand.    If  the  lady 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


91 


be  a  flirt,  the  gentleman  may  well  rejoice,  instead  of  griev- 
ing that  he  has  avoided  an  unhappy  union. 

If  a  gentleman  of  refinement  really  loves  a  lady,  and  deems 
her  worthy  of  his  love,  he  will  never  use  words  of  endearment, 
or  nauseous  love-terms,  towards  her  in  society.  After  an 
engagement,  each  calling  the  other  by  the  Christian  name, 
is  sufficient  proof  of  mutual  confidence  and  attachment ;  be- 
sides, true  and  delicate  love  is  as  jealous  of  the  expression 
of  its  affection  as  it  is  of  its  reciprocal  truth. 

The  purpose  of  this  brief  recapitulation  of  the  code  of 
fashionable  intercourse  is  to  show  its  moral  and  humanita- 
rian influences  upon  society,  and  that  all  good  breeding  is 
derived  from  the  truest  of  all  philosophical  data.  Our  own 
happiness  is  secured  by  the  promotion  of  the  happiness  of 
those  with  whom  we  are  associated ;  the  toleration  of  the 
impulses  and  passions  of  our  nature,  and  the  deficiency  of 
reason  which  at  times  should  control  them,  have  served  to 
unsettle  much  of  the  grace  and  harmony  of  society.  In  a 
community  of  equal  social  and  political  rights,  where  the 
wily  politician  seeks,  through  the  passions  or  prejudices  of 
men,  to  ride  into  power  upon  the  influence  they  create,  a 
large  amount  of  mischief  must  be  occasioned  by  their  unnat- 
ural excitement.  Eefined  society  should  prove  that  the  ex- 
ercise of  wisdom,  in  restraining  our  passions  within  the  cor- 
rect limits,  constitutes  the  truest  happiness,  and  to  teach  us 
that  to  ensure  felicity,  we  must  respect  the  rights  of  all,  and 
share  them  in  common. 


92 


FASHION"  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


The  duty  of  the  man  of  fashion,  and  of  honor,  is  to  curb 
these  excitements,  and  to  promote  the  influence  of  reason  in 
society,  so  as  to  overcome  all  obstacles  to  its  complete  har- 
mony, thus  proving  incontestibly  that  a  good  heart  and  a 
love  of  honesty,  equal  justice  and  equal  rights,  are  the  only 
true  foundations  of  real  politeness  and  gentleman-like  de- 
meanor, and  thereby  influencing  a  nation's  happiness  by  the 
laws  of  fashion. 

Separate  the  knave  from  the  honest  man,  the  counterfeit 
from  the  genuine,  by  understood  signs,  private  badges,  num- 
bers and  recognized  recorded  signals,  credentials,  distinguish- 
ing, in  a  word,  the  best  from  the  worst  species  of  mankind. 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDEESS. 


93 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


THE  CODE  OF  COMMERCIAL  INTERCOURSE. 

"  Factors  in  the  trading  world  are  what  ambassadors  are  in  the  politi- 
cal world  ;  they  negotiate  affairs,  conclude  treaties,  and  maintain  a  good 
correspondence  between  those  wealthy  societies  of  men  that  are  divided 
from  one  another  by  seas  and  oceans,  or  live  on  the  different  extremes  of 
a  continent." — Addison. 

The  duty  that  man  owes  to  society,  whilst  performing 
either  the  part  of  the  seller  or  the  buyer  of  any  legitimate 
article  of  trade,  is  the  subject  we  now  propose  to  discuss. 
We  use  the  words  buyer  and  seller  in  their  most  comprehen- 
sive terms,including  what  are  denominated  the  learned  pro- 
fessions, as  well  as  those  which  are  generally  considered  in- 
ferior employments.  In  a  word,  comprehending  all  dealings 
between  man  and  man,  where  value  gives  call  for  value  re- 
ceived. 

The  whole  civilized  world  will  admit  as  the  test  and  stan- 
dard of  that  duty  the  great  Christian  maxim:  11  Do  unto 
others  as  you  would  they  should  do  unto  you  ;"  that  is,  deal 
fairly,  honestly,  truthfully,  and  independently,  without  dis- 
simulation, prevarication,  or  subterfuge  of  any  kind  whatso- 
ever.   Do  no  man  a  wrong  or  ungentlemanly  act. 


94 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


In  the  very  constitution  of  society  there  is  an  absolute  ne- 
cessity for  the  relations  of  buyer  and  seller,  and  we  therefore 
find  records  of  the  fact  throughout  the  pages  of  both  sacred 
and  profane  history  from  the  earliest  date. 

In  those  records  we  trace,  on  the  one  hand,  the  noble  char- 
acter of  those  who,  in  the  emphatic  language  of  the  Scrip- 
tures, deal  j  ustly ;  and,  on  the  other,  of  those  who  delight 
in  false  weights  and  measures,  and  who,  in  the  same  impres- 
sive language,  are  said  to  be  an  abomination  to  the  Lord. 
Honesty,  then,  may  be  considered  as  the  main  point  in  com- 
mercial intercourse. 

In  reviewing  the  career  of  nations  or  individuals,  we  may 
trace  almost  all  the  ills  which  have  befallen  them  to  some 
dereliction  from  the  plain  and  straight  road  of  honesty, 
truthfulness  and  fair  dealing.  Corrupt  policy,  and  an  inor- 
dinate greed  of  gain  among  politicians,  is  almost  invariably 
the  cause  of  a  nation's  downfall,  and  the  same  remark  holds 
good  in  the  case  of  individuals.  "  He  that  gathereth  by 
labor  shall  increase,"  we  are  told  on  the  highest  authority, 
not  he  who  endeavors  to  obtain  fortune  by  defrauding  his 
neighbor.  Labor,  whether  mental  or  physical,  represents 
and  possesses  a  certain  standard  value,  and,  if  properly  ap- 
plied, must  at  all  times  meet  its  reward.  To  achieve  success 
on  the  road  of  life,  we  must  set  forth  with  the  full  under- 
standing that  it  is  no  easy  task  which  lies  before  us.  There 
are  mountains  of  toil  and  trouble  over  which  we  have  to 
climb,  and  deserts  of  uncertainty  across  which  our  weary 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


95 


feet  must  pass.  But  with  honor  and  honesty  set  before  us, 
as  our  golden  rule  and  guiding  star,  we  shall  not  fail  to 
reach  the  haven  of  our  heart's  desire.  Nor  are  there  any 
branches  of  trade  or  professions  which  may  be  considered  as 
too  trivial  or  insignificant  for  this  rule  of  guidance.  The 
star  of  honor  shines  with  equal  brilliancy,  whether  displayed 
in  the  drawing-room,  the  camp,  or  in  the  counting-house, 
and  if  not  receiving  from  our  fellow-men  the  same  loud  and 
enthusiastic  greeting,  will  not  fail  eventually  to  receive  its 
just  recognition. 

Pope  beautifully  expresses  the  character  of  the  upright 
dealer  in  that  celebrated  line  : 

"  An  honest  man's  the  noblest  work  of  God." 

And  Burns,  in  one  of  his  songs  that  has  attained  a  world- 
wide celebrity,  speaks  of  him  as  occupying  a  higher  rank 
in  the  scale  of  Nature's  nobility  than  could  be  conferred  by 
the  greatest  of  earthly  potentates. 

"  A  king  can  make  a  belted  knight, 

A  marquis,  duke,  and  a'  that, 
But  an  honest  man's  above  his  might, 

Gude  faith  he  maunna  fa'  that ; 
For  a'  that  and  a'  that, 

Their  dignities  and  a'  that, 
The  pith  of  sense,  the  pride  of  worth, 

Are  higher  ranks  for  a'  that." 

A  distinguished  philanthrophist,  in  a  pamphlet  issued  on 
the  Eeligion  of  Eeason,  commenting  on  the  words  :  "  There- 
fore, all  things  whatsoever  ye  would  that  men  should  do 


96 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


unto  you,  do  you  even  so  unto  them,"  says  :  "  It  is  honesty 
he  enjoins  in  these  words.  It  is  true  that  to  be  honest,  as 
the  world  goes,  is  to  be  one  man  found  in  one  thousand." 
Yet,  when  met  with,  strict  integrity  always  commands 
respect  even  in  rogues.  A  man  correctly  understanding 
himself,  is  a  fool  to  be  dishonest.  Though  nearly  all  persons, 
with  scarcely  an  exception,  will  agree  to  endorse  the 
principles  as  above  set  forth,  when  particular  cases  are 
brought  to  their  notice,  there  will  be  as  many  different  opin- 
ions as  exist  in  the  mental  and  moral  characteristics  of  the 
men.  It  is  therefore  necessary  that  we  should  define  more 
strictly,  in  an  introductory  form,  what  all  conceive  to  be  the 
precise  rule  and  standard  of  honesty 

This  rule  and  this  standard  should  actuate  the  individual 
man  in  all  the  relations  of  life.  Take,  for  instance,  the  mis- 
sion of  the  clergy,  the  profession  of  a  lawyer,  a  physician, 
the  calling  of  a  tradesman,  and  indeed  any  other  occupation, 
whether  mental,  artistic,  physical,  or  manual,  where  each 
one's  peculiar  talent  is  called  into  requisition.  Let  us  now 
apply  our  test  to  their  several  employments. 

First,  with  the  advocate  or  lawyer :  we  find  that  all  in  that 
profession,  who,  by  the  common  consent  of  the  Bar,  are  ad- 
mitted to  hold  the  first  rank,  scarcely  ever  disagree  in  pecu- 
niary matters,  because  their  talents  enable  them  to  judge 
correctly  of  the  pecuniary  value  of  the  service  of  those 
engaged  in  their  line  of  employment  with  the  nicest  precis- 
ion.   They  know  the  time  and  the  money,  the  wearisome 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


97 


days  and  sleepless  nights,  the  anxiety  of  mind  that  must 
necessarily  have  been  expended  in  the  acquisition  of  that 
knowledge  which  has  been  called  into  requisition,  and  which 
forms,  if  we  may  so  express  it,  the  foundation-stone  of  his 
capital.  They  can  judge  correctly  the  amount  of  industry, 
the  continued  mental  application  necessary  to  render  that 
capital  available  ;  the  many  days,  months,  and  years,  that 
have  passed  in  perfecting  that  particular  talent  by  which  he 
has  at  length  gained  celebrity,  whether  as  a  skilful  attorney, 
a  special  pleader,  or  a  discreet  counsellor.  Knowing  all  this, 
they  are  enabled  to  form,  and  always  do  form,  where  their 
personal  interests  alone  are  concerned,  a  very  correct  idea  of 
the  value  of  such  services  as  may  have  been  required  to  be 
performed.  This  judgment,  moreover,  is  rarely  ever  ques- 
tioned by  him,  who,  with  like  facilities  for  forming  an 
unbiassed  opinion,  has  given  his  service  without  stipulating 
a  price.  It  is  upon  this  principle,  in  the  courts  of  law  and 
equity,  where  one  advocate  is  supposed  to  have  made  ex- 
travagant charges  for  his  counsel  and  advice,  as  well  as  in 
the  management  of  the  case,  the  judge  or  chancellor  appoints 
some  discreet,  conscientious  and  honorable  man  learned  in 
the  profession  of  the  law,  to  tax  the  bill  of  costs. 

Now,  that  which  is  done  in  this  last  resort,  the  honest  ad- 
vocate will  do  in  the  first  place  :  he  will  not  take  advantage 
of  the  simplicity  or  kind-heartedness  of  his  client,  to  filch 
from  him  that  which  he  deliberately  knows  he  has  not  fairly 

and  honestly  earned.    Nor  will  he  give  his  client  an  opinion 
7 


98 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


that  he  knows  to  be  legally  unsound,  for  the  express  purpose 
of  creating  a  business  for  himself,  thereby  wasting  not  only 
the  time  of  him  who  depended  on  him  for  honest  advice, 
but  leading  him  blind-folded,  as  it  were,  into  a  mass  of 
expenses  that  may  cause  his  ruin.  If  he  does,  then  we  must 
rank  him  as  the  pettifogger,  the  cheat,  and  the  swindler,  in 
very  truth — as  that  person  who,  whenever  he  looks  into  a 
glass,  beholds  the  resemblance  of  a  dishonored  and  dishonor- 
able man. 

As  with  the  lawyers,  so  with  all  other  professions  and 
trades  ;  the  buyer  and  seller  in  their  relative  positions,  con- 
sidering honest  dealing  a  commandment  kept  by  the  few, 
broken  by  the  many,  but  revered  by  all. 

Thus  briefly  have  we  introduced  a  subject  of  the  greatest 
importance.  The  limits  of  this  work  will  not  admit  of  a 
more  extended  consideration  of  the  subject,  and  the  author  is 
forced  to  content  himself  with  these  introductory  remarks. 

The  foregoing  pages  are  the  result  of  the  author's  expe- 
rience, covering  nearly  half  a  century,  in  this  and  other 
countries,  and  are  sincerely  offered  to  his  fellow-citizens, 
particularly  to  the  young,  who  have  not  yet  entered  the 
arena  to  fight  the  battle  of  life,  and  as  a  debt  of  gratitude  to 
the  system  and  institutions  which  enabled  him,  after  landing 
on  these  shores  a  poor  emigrant,  to  obtain  a  position  of  re- 
spectability and  usefulness  in  the  community  which  he 
delights  to  serve,  and  to  promote  whose  interest  it  has  been 
his  honor  to  dedicate  the  best  days  in  his  life.    "This  great 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


90 


land,  'shadowing  with,  wings,'  is  but  just  commencing  to 
receive  within  its  embrace  the  disfranchised  millions  of  the 
older  systems  escaping  thence  to  us,  on  the  East  and  on  the 
"West.  Commingled  tongues  and  many  creeds  are  fusing 
amicably  together  in  this  great  interior  receptacle  of  Amer- 
ica, and  the  boy  of  to-day  may  live  to  see  an  empire  arise^ 
from  it  strong  enough  to  dictate  the  law  of  humanity  to  the 
world,  and  enlightened  and  noble  enough  in  its  policy  to  win 
the  willing  homage  of  all  nations." 


100 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


THE  RELATION  OF  THE  BUYER  AND  THE  SELLER. 

"  Lord  Stafford  mines  for  coal  and  salt, 
The  Duke  of  Norfolk  deals  in  malt, 

The  Douglass  in  red  herrings ; 
And  noble  name  and  cultured  land, 
Palace  and  park  and  vassal  band, 
Are  powerless  to  the  notes  of  hand 

Of  Rothschild  or  the  Barrings." — Halluck. 

"  Napoleon  I.  not  inaptly  called  England  a  nation  of 
shop-keepers."  How  far  the  great  Emperor  was  right  in  his 
assertion,  is,  and  will  be,  a  disputed  point,  especially  among 
Englishmen.  The  author  of  this  work,  for  the  present,  de- 
clines the  idea  of  offending,  or  defending,  Mr.  John  Bull ; 
for  in  either  case  the  result  would  be  a  thankless  task  in  the 
realm  of  fashion  and  dress.  The  French  Emperor  might 
have  continued  the  sentence  by  saying,  "perfide  Albion" 
always  takes  care  of  number  one,  even  at  the  expense  of 
despoiling  her  more  polite  or  weaker  neighbors.  Unfortu- 
nately for  the  happiness  of  the  honest  portion  of  mankind, 
the  world  contains  at  the  present  clay  too  many  individuals 
and  nations,  who,  when  tested  by  the  scales  of  justice  and  im- 
partial opinion,  are  nothing  more  nor  less  than  legalized 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


101 


thieves,  despoiling  the  honest  man's  peace  and  happiness. 
Having  endeavored  to  show,  in  some  of  the  preceding  pages, 
the  world's  commendation  of  the  honest  man,  in  contradis- 
tinction to  the  villains  who  deal  in  false  representations, 
weights  and  measures,  and  who  by  the  corruption  of  wealth 
are  protected  by  unj  ust  laws  ; — the  former  is  the  hydra- 
headed  monster,  which  must  first  be  struck  down  to  the 
earth,  with  all  mental  and  bodily  powers.  Class  legislation 
in  favor  of  the  few,  and  to  suit  unprincipled  politicians,  mo- 
nopolists and  others,  in  the  mal-administration  of  existing 
good  laws,  are  some  of  the  many  ills  that  the  downtrodden, 
toiling  masses  are  doomed  to  bear  in  this  and  other  coun- 
tries, until  patriotic  liberators,  victorious  heroes,  shall  arise ; 
"  first  in  peace,  the  first  in  war,  and  the  first  in  the  hearts 
of  their  countrymen,"  who  will  wage  eternal  and  exterminat- 
ing war  against  corruption  and  fraud  in  high  and  low  places, 
by  creating  a  powerful  and  invincible  legion  of  patriots,  cre- 
ating an  honest  man's  party,  to  wield  the  power  of  the  pen 
in  the  first  instance,  or  the  sword  as  the  last  resort,*  aided,  if 
needs  be,  by  good  and  patriotic  people,  assembling  in  their 
might,  to  use,  as  an  auxiliary  power,  strong  hemp  rope, 
round  the  neck  of  incurable  villains,  who  are  false  to  the 
community ;  a  short  shrift  and  a  hoist,  dangling  the  evil- 
doers in  the  air  higher  than  Hainan. 

*  The  pen  is  more  powerful  than  the  sword ;  we  say  the  shears  are  more  powerful 
than  either  or  both ;  because  the  shears  conquer  woman,  and  woman  is  the  mother  of  all 
mankind.  What  will  a  virtuous  woman  give  to  cover  her  nakedness?  What  will  a 
bad  woman  do  for  fine  dress  ?  Answer  


102 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


History  repeats  itself,  "  that  necessity  knows  no  law,"  and 
especially  when  it  is  of  common  occurrence  for  the  unprin- 
cipled political  judges  who  disgrace  themselves,  to  the  injury 
of  our  common  country,  by  unscrupulously  soiling  the  er- 
mine of  the  judiciary,  in  allowing  the  worst  species  of  crim- 
inals to  go  un whipped  of  justice. 

The  reader  will  perceive  by  the  foregoing  remarks  that 
the  basis  of  all  fair  dealings  commences  at  the  root  of  impar- 
tial justice ;  and,  like  a  mighty  tree,  its  ramifications  on 
earth  are  so  multifarious  that  few  people  thoroughly  un- 
derstand the  relative  duties  of  each,  as  buyer  and  seller ;  the 
commonly  received  opinion  that  the  party  who  receives  a 
commodity  is  under  no  obligation  to  the  deliverer  on  mu- 
tual settlement,  and  vice  versa,  thus  rendering  all  inter- 
changes in  trade  as  entirely  selfish,  doing  away  with  any 
friendly  interest  between  each  other.  This  mode  of  usage 
is  entirely  wrong ;  in  proof,  when  a  buyer  and  a  seller  receive 
each  their  respective  considerations,  this  is  the  time  to  offer 
commercial  civilities  bordering  on  those  of  a  social  charac- 
ter. What  can  be  more  unreasonable  than  to  suppose  that 
a  conscientious  dealer  has  no  other  motive  in  serving  the 
buyer  with  his  best  commodities,  including  his  best  services, 
unless  he  was  acting  under  the  belief  that  he  is  gaining  your 
future  patronage  and  friendship  ?  Similar  motives  and  a 
sense  of  duty  ought  to  actuate  the  buyer  in  all  honorable 
dealings,  thereby  rendering  interchange  of  commodities  of 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDRESS. 


103 


an  agreeable  and  sincere  character,  performed  in  the  courte- 
sies that  are  usually  practised  in  polite  society. 

It  is  hardly  possible  in  the  limits  of  this  volume  to  give 
an  idea  of  the  incalculable  pecuniary  loss  for  the  want  of  a 
proper  foresight  on  the  part  of  the  buyer  in  guarding  his 
his  own  actions  from  being  made  the  basis  of  success  by  an 
expert  counterfeiting  knave,  who  assumes  the  role  of  a  con- 
scientious trader.  The  successful  defrauder  generally  adopts 
the  outside  appearance  and  manner  of  business  that  well  be- 
fits the  high  tone  and  character  of  the  man  of  commercial 
integrity.  He  also  too  often  finds  any  number  of  persons 
whom  he  can  plunder,  to  a  great  or  less  extent,  without  using 
much  wit  or  exertion  in  so  doing,  for  the  best  of  all  reasons 
those  victims  are  in  the  majority  of  cases  previously  pre- 
pared by  the  confidence  of  unwarrantable  and  inconsiderata 
practices  adopted  in  commercial  usages  on  the  adage  "  you 
must  first  risk  before  you  can  gain." 

How  common  it  is  in  commercial  dealings,  and  corres- 
pondingly in  the  social  circle,  to  hear  of  the  successful  ef- 
forts of  swindlers  of  every  type,  ingratiating  themselves  into 
the  trust  and  confidence  of  their  too  confiding  victims.  The 
dealer's  inordinate  greed  of  gaining  substance  or  renown  are 
the  chief  resources  of  the  designing  knave  ;  they  are  in  very 
truth  the  deceiver's  stock  in  trade ;  his  tools  whose  leverage 
power  in  countless  numbers  of  instances  being  the  means  of 
robbing  the  dealer  out  of  the  sweat  of  his  brow,  and  the  so- 
cial circle  out  of  many  of  their  chief  ornaments. 


.4 


104 


FASHION  AND  POLITE  ADDKESS. 


It  may  here  be  very  properly  asked,  how  can  these  losses 
and  annoyances  be  in  some  way  prevented,  alleviated  or 
avoided  ?  This,  indeed,  is  a  question  not  easily  or  satisfacto- 
rily answered.  It  is  so  difficult  to  solve  that,  notwithstand- 
ing the  author  of  these  pages  has  been  actively  engaged  in 
commercial  life,  commencing  in  the  Old  World  as  an  orphan 
boy  at  the  age  of  thirteen,  graduating  through  all  ranks  of  com- 
merce and  events,  the  observation  of  royalty  and  formulas  of 
[Republics,  being  for  the  last  twenty  odd  years  an  adopted  citi- 
zen of  the  United  States  of  America,  an  agreeable  exchange 
in  lieu  of  my  birth-right,  a  so-called  British  subject,  the  son 
of  an  Irish  rebel,  a  gentleman  of  unsullied  integrity,  the  lat- 
ter in  arms  against  that  odious  tyrant,  George  the  Third. 

The  author,  with  a  dear-bought  commercial  experience  of 
over  forty  years,  and  not  a  stranger  to  the  usages  of  well- 
regulated  society,  regrets  his  inability  to  correctly  advise  the 
unwary  how  to  avoid  the  dark  designs  of  the  swindler, 
sharper,  the  thief,  including  deep-dyed  villains  of  every 
type.  Even  ancient  and  modern  history  is  so  far  unequal 
to  the  task.  Therefore,  all  that  can  reasonably  be  expected 
from  the  author  is  to  show  the  beacon  lights  of  cosmopoli- 
tan experience,  and  the  war  of  life's  battle  against  the 
world's  curse  ;  an  abomination  of  the  Lord's — the  dishonest 
man. 


SUPPLEMENT. 

SERIES  FROM 

EUROPEAN  AND  AMERICAN  AUTHORS, 

ON 

DRESS  AND  FASHION,  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN. 


Fashions  that  are  now  called  new- 
Have  been  worn  by  more  than  you  : 
Elder  times  have  used  the  same, 
Though  these  new  ones  get  the  name. 

MIDDLETOH'S  MAYOR  OF  QUEENSBOROUGH. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


107 


DRESS  AND  FASHION  FROM  ENGLISH  A  UTHORS 

Dress,  considered  merely  as  a  covering  for  the  body,  and 
as  a  means  of  promoting  warmth,  needs  no  explanation.  In 
the  early  age,  it  was  simple  as  the  manners  of  the  people  who 
invented  it.  Leaves,  feathers,  and  skins  formed  the  clothing 
of  our  first  parents.    As  civilization  gradually  spread  over 
the  world,  and  as  the  invention  and  genius  of  man  found 
means  to  change  a  raw  hide  into  leather,  the  wool  of  sheep 
into  cloth,  the  web  of  a  worm  into  silk,  flax  and  cotton  into 
linen ;  to  extract  from  herbs,  flowers,  woods,  minerals,  and 
insects,  dyes  and  colors  that  vie  with  the  rainbow  in  rich- 
ness and  variety — they  quitted  the  simple  garments  of  their 
forefathers,  and  gradually  gave  themselves  up  to  an  almost 
incredible  degree  of  luxury  and  extravagance  in  the  adorn- 
ment of  their  persons.    So  extensively  and  so  rapidly  did 
this  passion  for  dress  spread  over  the  world,  that  edicts,  laws, 
and  ordinances  have  been  passed  from  time  to  time,  by  many 
nations,  to  arrest  the  growing  evil ;  an  evil  created  by  that 
desire  for  personal  distinction  which  dwells  more  or  less  in 
every  human  breast,  whether  male  or  female,  and  which 
marks  the  untaught  savage  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  as  well 
as  the  enlightened  and  well-educated  inhabitant  of  Britain. 
It  may  appear  incredible  to  those  who  have  not  dived  into 


108 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


the  mysteries  of  dress  and  fashion,  to  learn  that  revolutions 
have  been  caused  at  different  times,  and  among  different  na- 
tions, from  the  determined  resistance  opposed  to  the  various 
laws  and  decrees  which  have  been  directed  against  the  too 
great  love  of  dress  and  ornament ;  and  so  powerfully  has 
this  passion  exhibited  itself  in  the  human  mind,  that  blood 
has  actually  been  shed  to  support  it. 

In  the  history  of  China,  we  find  that  even  that  meek, 
quiet  people  were  roused  to  fury  when  their  Tartar  conquer- 
ors ordered  their  luxuriant  tresses  to  be  cut  off,  and  so 
strenuously  did  they  oppose  the  arbitrary  decree,  -that  in  more 
than  one  instance  the  unfortunate  Chinese  preferred  losing 
their  heads  to  parting  with  their  beloved  ringlets.  We  are 
also  told  that  the  Tartars  waged  a  long  and  bloody  war  with 
the  Persians,  and  declared  them  to  be  infidels,  because  they 
would  not  clip  their  whiskers  after  the  fashion  of  the 
former. 

Even  so  late  as  the  eighteenth  century,  a  very  serious 
tmeute  took  place  in  Madrid,  on  an  attempt  being  made  to 
banish  the  capa  and  sombrero ;  and,  marvellous  as  it  may 
seem,  the  obstinate  resistance  opposed  to  those  who  wished 
to  change  the  fashion  of  those  cherished  articles  of  dress 
caused  the  disgrace  and  flight  of  the  prime  minister. 

In  our  own  country  many  laws  and  edicts  have  been  made 
at  different  times  to  check,  not  only  extravagance  in  dress 
itself,  as  regards  the  richness  and  splendor  of  its  materials  and 
ornaments  that  decorate  it,  but  also  to  correct  and  regulate 


ANCIENT  AND  MODEKN  FASHION. 


109 


the  shape  of  various  parts  of  the  apparel  of  both  men  and 
women.  Several  of  our  early  kings  waged  war  against  the 
ridiculous  and  enormous  length  of  piked  shoes,  and,  by 
enacting  a  law  restraining  their  points  to  a  certain  standard, 
hoped  to  correct  the  evil.  But  Fashion  was  not  to  be  so 
ruled  by  the  will  of  a  monarch ;  angry  at  her  wishes  being 
disobeyed,  she  immediately  put  it  into  the  heads  of  her  fol- 
lowers to  invent  a  mode  equally  absurd  ;  the  crahowes  and 
poulaines  disappeared,  but  were  soon  replaced  by  shoes  of 
so  extravagant  a  width,  that  another  law  was,  ere  long, 
found  necessary  to  circumscribe  their  breadth. 

Queen  Elizabeth,  though  herself  so  devoted  a  follower  of 
fashion,  and  so  passionately  fond  of  dress,  still  made  many 
laws  respecting  the  attire  of  her  subjects.  She  commanded 
the  lower  orders  to  wear  on  the  Sabbath-day  a  cap  of  a  pecu- 
liar shape ;  and,  perhaps  to  restrain  the  love  of  foreign 
fashions  which  had  long  been  so  prevalent  in  England,  she 
enacted  that  this  head-dress  should  be  made  of  wool,  knit, 
thicked,  and  dressed  in  Britain.  She  also  made  a  decree  to 
limit  the  size  of  the  ruffs  and  swords  worn  by  her  courtiers 
to  the  standard  she  considered  fitting  for  subjects  to 
assume ;  and,  fearful  that  so  arbitrary  a  law  might  be  in 
some  way  or  other  evaded  by  the  votaries  of  fashion,  she 
appointed  officers  whose  sole  duty  it  was  to  break  every 
man's  sword  exceeding  the  limited  length,  and  clip  all  the 
ruffs  whose  size  infringed  upon  her  legal  ordinance. 

Although  the  arbitrary  laws  caused  some  slight  troubles  at 


110 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


first  among  gallants  who  could  not  brook  the  shortening  of 
their  cherished  weapons,  still  no  serious  consequences  en- 
sued, and  on  the  whole  the  English  have  ever  borne  the 
attacks  made  upon  their  dress  with  becoming  sang  froid. 
Elizabeth,  too,  busied  herself  in  arranging  the  costume  usu- 
ally worn  in  the  Inns  of  Court,  and  particularized  the  shapes 
and  colors  of  the  garments  and  the  embroideries  she  consid- 
ered befitting  so  grave  an  assembly. 

Under  Elizabeth's  successor  a  serious  debate  took  place  in 
parliament,  concerning  the  enormous  size  of  verdingles  ;  and 
some  years  afterwards  laws  were  passed  to  put  a  stop  to 
patching  and  painting. 

The  Turks,  despotic  in  everything,  will  not  allow  the 
Grecian  ladies  the  poor  privilege  of  wearing  petticoats  of 
the  length  that  fashion  in  their  country  has  declared  to  be 
proper  and  fitting ;  they  have  officers  whose  duty  it  is  to 
trim  off  as  much  of  the  jupe  as  ventures  beyond  the 
length  fixed  by  their  barbarous  masters. 

The  Turks  also  have  laws  by  which  none  but  their  own 
august  persons  are  allowed  to  wear  yellow  slippers ;  and 
while  their  haughty  brows  were  encircled  with  turbans  of  the 
finest  and  brightest-colored  muslins,  with  silks  of  the  richest 
dyes,  or  with  shawls  of  the  gayest  tints  and  most  delicate 
texture,  their  Grecian  subjects  were  condemned  to  wear 
dark  cotton  caps,  as  a  mark  of  their  servitude ;  the  Arme- 
nians, too,  they  oblige  to  appear  in  ridiculous-looking  bal- 
loon-shaped cappas ;  and  the  crouching  Jews  look  doubly 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


Ill 


miserable  when  forced  to  bend  to  the  Turkish  law,  which 
only  permits  their  heads  to  be  covered  with  brimless  caps, 
much  resembling  inverted  flower-pots.  These  despots  hav  e 
however  themselves  been,  within  the  last  few  years,  con- 
strained to  bend  to  the  decree  of  Sultan  Mahmoud,  who 
ordered  that  a  red  cloth  fez,  or  military  cap,  should  be  worn 
by  the  followers  of  the  faithful,  instead  of  the  lofty  calpac 
or  ample  turban.  This  law  was,  however,  received  with  the 
most  determined  and  indignant  remonstrances  and  opposi- 
tion, and  so  obnoxious  to  the  Turkish  feelings  was  this  new- 
fashioned  head-dress,  that  the  discontented  party  set  fire  to 
the  houses  of  those  who  were  favorable  to  the  change ; 
and  though  the  Sultan's  wishes  passed  into  a  law3  his  subjects 
are  still  highly  disgusted  with  their  forced  adoption  of  any 
coiffure  in  the  place  of  the  turban  so  long  worn  by  their 
forefathers. 

Besides  the  many  decrees  made  by  our  monarchs  concern- 
ing dress,  a  particular  costume  was  arranged  by  Charles  the 
Second  and  his  council,  for  the  nobility  to  appear  in,  and 
one  in  which  great  extravagance  of  gold,  silver,  lace,  and 
jewels  was  not  necessary ;  for  during  his  reign  in  England, 
the  immense  sums  lavished  upon  dress  and  ornaments  were 
almost  incalculable. 

Grustavus  of  Sweden  also  invented,  or  at  least  ordered  a 
court  habiliment,  in  which  all  who  wished  to  be  admitted  to 
his  presence,  both  men  and  women,  were  obliged  to  appear  ; 
and  Bonaparte  followed  his  example,  to  the  no  small  disgust 


112 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


of  his  officers,  and  to  the  despair  and  anger  of  les  belles  Fran- 
caises.  Even  during  the  Revolution,  when  blood,  murder, 
and  misery,  were  spread  over  devoted  France — when  the 
prisons  echoed  with  the  groans  of  the  unfortunate  victims 
of  political  despotism — when  ^  the  scaffolds  were  crowded 
with,  the  dead  and  the  dying — dress  was  not  forgotten,  and 
stormy  were  the  debates  on  this  important  subject  held  in 
the  national  convention ! 

In  various  countries  of  Europe  sumptuary  laws  have  at 
different  times  been  enacted,  to  restrain  extravagance  in 
apparels. 

In  Switzerland,  Italy,  and  Germany,  the  legislature  fre- 
quently found  it  necessary  to  interfere  ;  and  for  this  reason, 
probably,  the  national  costume  still  remains  in  full  force 
among  the  peasantry,  who  hitherto  have  resisted  the  approach 
of  Fashion,  and  her  handmaids,  Caprice  and  Vanity.  While 
on  this  subject,  we  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  peculiar 
privileges  relating  to  dress  belonging  to  the  family  of 
Andrea  Dona.  When,  owing  to  the  luxury  and  profusion 
which  characterized  the  Genoese  of  his  day,  the  senate  found 
it  absolutely  necessary  to  check  the  growing  evil,  and  for- 
bade the  wearing  of  jewels  and  brocade,  the  patriot  admiral, 
doubtless  to  show  his  country's  sense  of  the  services  he  had 
rendered  it,  was  allowed  to  expend  what  sums  he  pleased 
upon  the  adornment  of  his  person  ;  and  this  privilege  was 
afterward  extended  to  his  family. 

Woman  is  defined  by  an  ancient  writer  to  be  an  "  animal 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


113 


that  delights  in  finery  ;"  and  it  is  to  be  feared  the  annals  of 
dress  in  every  land,  the  most  savage  as  well  as  the  most  civ- 
ilized, will  but  prove  the  truth  of  the  assertion.  Certain  it 
is  that  the  peacock,  in  all  its  pride,  does  not  glitter  in  more 
various  and  gaudy  trappings  than  does  a  modern  woman  of 
fashion.  But  while  thus  speaking  of  woman's  love  of  finery, 
which  appears  from  the  most  ancient  writers  to  have  be- 
longed to  her  since  the  world  began,  we  must  not  omit  to 
mention  that  man  also  was,  and  in  most  countries  still  is,  as 
much  devoted  to  this  passion  as  the  fair  sex.  Though  in 
these  days,  at  least  in  most  civilized  nations,  it  is  considered 
effeminate  for  men  to  adorn  their  persons  with  trinkets  and 
embroidered  garments,  still  those  who  peruse  the  "  Book  of 
Costume  "  will  find  that,  however  extravagant  women  have 
been  in  these  respects,  men  have  equalled,  if  not  surpassed 
them  in  profusion  and  magnificence.  Among  savage  na- 
tions, to  this  day,  the  warriors  deck  their  persons  with  all 
the  finery  they  can  procure — with  feathers,  shells,  beads  and 
paint ;  while  their  wives  are  often  obliged  to  content  them- 
selves with  their  blanket-covering,  and  but  few  ornaments. 

In  ExocLus  we  read  of  the  "jewels  of  silver,  and  jewels  of 
gold,"  borrowed  by  the  Israelites  from  the  Egyptians.  In 
Isaiah,  also,  we  find  a  long  account  of  female  apparel  in  the 
time  of  the  prophet. 

Having  thus-  pointed  to  our  readers  the  antiquity  of  the 

toilet,  we  will  speak  of  Fashion,  who,  "  sole  arbitress  of 

dress,"  with  the  caprice  for  which  she  is  so  celebrated,  has 
8 


114 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


enacted,  that  what  is  the  proper  standard  for  attire  in  one 
country,  and  at  one  time,  shall  be  equally  the  contrary  in 
other  climes,  and  at  other  periods. 

Of  all  nations,  the  two  that  pay  the  most  devoted  atten- 
tion to  the  decrees  of  fashion,  in  the  size,  shape,  and  color 
of  every  trifle  relating  to  the  toilet,  are  the  English  and 
French,  and  it  seems  a  reflection  worthy  the  consideration  of 
the  philosopher,  why  these  two  (we  may  truly  say  the  most 
enlightened  nations  of  the  world)  should,  of  all  others,  be 
the  most  determined  and  devoted  followers  of  this  feather 
and  flower  decked  goddess. — Annals  of  Fashion,  London, 
1847. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


115 


DRESS  AND  FASHION— AMERICAN  AUTHORS 


FASHION. 

It  was  the  ordinary  remark  of  the  fashionable  Dr.  Gra- 
ham (in  the  days  of  Horace  Walpole),  when  consulted  by  a 
patient,  "  Sir,  your  disease  is  very  extraordinary,  but  it  is 
common  enough."  This  paradoxical  definition  may  be  very 
well  applied  as  interpreting  the  word  "  Fashion."  The  lat- 
ter is  doubtless  an  extraordinary  thing  commonly  adopted. 
It  will  seem  still  further  paradoxical  to  assert  that  what  is 
"  fashionable  "  is  "  vulgar  ;"  but  when  it  is  recollected  that 
"  vulgar  "  implies  something  popularly  observed  (the  word 
being  derived  from  "  volk,"  "  people"),  the  paradox  is  no 
longer  apparent.  The  Latin  terms  vulgus  and  vulgaris,  like 
our  own  translations  of  them,  are  not  intended  to  convey 
anything  complimentary  in  them.  The  designation  vulgus 
was  contemptuously  flung  at  the  ancient  Germans  by  their 
Eoman  antagonists.  The  sons  of  Herman  accepted  the 
name,  and  the  German  "  volk  "  soon  became  the  fashionable 
or  popular  equivalent  for  "  patriots." 

In  the  term  "  mode  "  we  have  something  of  a  similar 
meaning.  It  is  derived  from  mos,  a  manner  or  custom.  This 


116 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


word  in  its  plural  form,  mores,  signifies  "  morals,"  by  which 
is  meant  manners,  which,  if  not,  ought  to  be  in  fashion.  As 
in  Latin  the  difference  of  number  alters  the  signification,  so 
in  French  does  the  change  of  gender.  "Le  moral,"  of  a 
woman,  is  for  instance,  by  no  means  the  same  thing  as  "  sa 
morale."  In  deriving  mode  from  "  mos,"  we  follow  the 
lexicographer  Boiste.  We  may  add,  however,  that  another 
Latin  word,  "  modus,"  is  not  altogether  to  be  set  aside  as  the 
original  of  "  mode."  It  implies  a  due  proportion,  neither 
more  nor  less;  a  just  measure,  or  manner,  and  to  be  in 
the  mode,  according  to  this  rendering  of  the  original,  is  not 
to  be  extravagant — not  to  be  in  excess  in  anything.  He 
who  adopts  this  mode  will  find  himself  possessed  of  the  most 
valuable  of  fashions — the  true  "factu  nobilum  ;"  although 
Livy  had  not  the  same  application  in  his  mind  when  he 
wrote  the  words  just  quoted. 

The  most  ancient  fashion  with  which  we  are  acquainted 
is  one  which  is  just  expiring.  It  commenced  in  Scythia, 
and  is  going  out,  after  a  long  reign,  in  New  Zealand.  We 
allude  to  "  tattooing."  It  is,  or  was,  the  offspring  of  some 
strange  conceit  on  the  part  of  the  ladies.  These  latter  were 
Scythians,  who,  holding  in  their  power  some  Thracians  of 
the  same  sex,  amused  themselves,  says  Clearchus,  by  tracing 
very  ridiculous  figures  on  their  bodies  by  means  of  needles. 
The  poor  Thracian  ladies,  when  restored  to  freedom,  exer- 
cised their  ingenuity  by  concealing  the  absurd  figures  etched 
on  their  bodies,  in  a  labyrinth  of  flourishes,  circles,  and  most 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


117 


perplexing  patterns.  The  design  was  immediately  adopted 
as  fashionable  wear,  and  every  Thracian  lady  appeared  in 
public  tattooed  from  the  head  to  the  loins. 

Since  that  period,  the  mode  has  been  followed  by  various 
nations,  and  until  very  recently  it  was  the  characteristic  of 
the  New  Zealand  aristocracy.  Of  late  years,  however,  the 
young  chiefs  look  with  something  of  contempt  on  their 
seniors  so  distinguished ;  and  very  speedily  a  tattooed  skin 
will  be  as  rare  a  thing  in  the  isles  of  the  Southern  Ocean  as 
perukes  and  patches,  clouded  caves  and  farthingales  in  the 
public  promenades  of  England. 

The  fashions  of  the  conqueror  generally  prevail  over  those 
of  the  conquered.  Thus  young  British  chieftains,  despite 
the  disgust  of  their  sires,  threw  off  their  vesture  of  skins 
and  put  on  the  habits  of  their  Koman  victors.  A  conse- 
quence, only  partially  similar,  followed  the  Norman  invasion  ; 
the  Norman  cavaliers  took  from  the  Saxons  their  "  smock- 
frocks,"  and  with  a  change  of  material  and  an  addition  of 
ornament,  introduced  the  blouse.  When  not  engaged  in 
military  duties,  the  same  invaders  doffed  their  iron  head- 
pieces, and  donned  a  wide-brimmed  and  easy  covering  of 
felt — this  was  nothing  more  than  the  modern  "  wide-awake." 
The  couvre-chef  of  the  lounging  Norman  has  been  stiffened 
into  the  peculiar  head-gear  of  the  Society  of  Friends  ;  but  its 
chief  glory  consists  in  its  having  been,  in  a  modified  shape 
and  a  scarlet  hue,  patronized  by  the  Church  of  Eome,  and 
fixed  upon  the  brows  of  her  humble  cardinals. 


118 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


Some  one  has  defined  "  fashion  "  as  being  "  the  tyrant  of 
fops  and  females."  The  definer  might  have  added  that  the 
artificers  in  fashion's  service  are  often  the  victims  of  fashion's 
slaves.  There  is  nothing  so  powerful,  so  absolute,  so  impe- 
rious, and  so  transitory,  as  this  same  fashion.  Napoleon 
himself  was  jealous  even  of  this  so-called  goddess  of  fashion ; 
and  he  condescended  to  sneer  at  her  votaries,  by  saying  that 
nations  are  sheep-like,  and  ready  to  follow  the  first  who  set 
a  strange  example.  The  simile  is  ricketty,  and  is  not  en- 
tirely correct.  We  have  never  heard  of  any  one  who  fol- 
lowed the  fashion  set  and  advocated  by  Osclepiades,  who 
tried  to  bring  cheap  locomotion  into  general  favor,  and  who 
travelled  about  the  world  on  a  cow,  living  on  her  milk  by 
the  way.  The  above  is  an  example  set,  which  has  never 
been  followed.  We  may  cite,  on  the  other  hand,  a  fashion 
followed,  the  originating  example  for  which  no  one  has  yet 
discovered.  We  allude  to  "smoking."  Of  course,  at  this 
word,  the  thoughts  naturally  revert  to  Sir  Walter  Ealeigh 
and  Virginia  tobacco.  There  were  pipes,  however,  in  our 
old  monasteries,  and  the  monks  smoked  "colt's  foot"  to 
keep  the  marsh  air  out  of  their  stomachs.  The  fashion  is 
probably  of  Eastern  origin.  That  mention  is  not  made 
thereof  throughout  the  Arabian  Nighis,  is  no  proof  to  the 
contrary  ;  for  we  believe  that  in  that  picturesque  series  the 
undeniably  prevalent  Eastern  fashion  of  opium-eating  is  not 

even  alluded  to. 

******* 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


119 


Finally,  reverting  to  "  fashion  "  as  simply  in  connection 
with  dress,  its  past  history  reveals  to  us  the  counterfeit  pre- 
sentment of  our  ancestors ;  its  present  history,  to  be  found 
in  various  contemporary  authors,  will  convey  a  reflection  of 
ourselves  to  those  who  will  succeed  us.  It  is  a  subject 
which  unceasingly  occupies  the  fool,  and  only  passingly  con- 
cerns the  philosopher.  Diogenes  was  not  anything  the  more 
of  a  philosopher  for  living  in  a  tub.  He  affected  to  fly  the 
fashions  of  the  day ;  but  it  has  been  truly  remarked  that 
while  a  fop  is  the  slave  of  fashion,  a  philosopher  surrenders 
himself  to  his  tailor,  whose  duty  lies  in  dressing  him  becom- 
ingly. He  who  entirely  despises  becomingness  of  attire, 
under  an  affected  or  an  imaginary  contempt  for  fashion,  is 
as  weak  of  head  and  mistaken  in  employment  as  he  who  sets 
all  duties  below  the  pleasure  of  watching  the  fashions  and 
adopting  them.  These  perish  with  daily  perishing  time,  and, 
as  the  moralist  of  Dourdan  sensibly  remarks,  "  La  vertu 
seule,  si  peu  a  la  mode,  va  au-dela  des  temps." — Encyclope- 
dia Britannica,  Boston,  U.  S. 


120 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


DRESS  AND  FASHION— AMERICAN  AUTHORS 


COSTUME. 

Costume  (Fr.  costume,  custom),  the  style  of  dress  charac- 
teristic of  an  individual,  community,  class,  or  age.  So  va: 
rious  and  fickle  are  the  modes  of  costume,  that  if  the  dressed 
man,  and  not  the  natural  man,  were  the  subject  of  science, 
and  if  men  and  women,  like  shells,  minerals,  flowers,  and 
stars,  were  chiefly  described  and  characterized  by  the  way 
they  strike  the  eye,  rather  than  by  more  essential  qualities, 
humanity  would  be  the  most  complicated  and  perplexing 
branch  of  natural  history.  In  an  old  poem,  an  English 
philosopher  is  represented  as  standing  naked  before  a  piece 
of  cloth,  with  a  pair  of  scissors  in  hand,  trying  in  vain  to 
decide  in  which  of  the  various  possible  ways  he  shall  clothe 
himself,  and  singing  to  himself: 

"  Now  I  will  wear  this,  and  now  I  will  wear  that, 
And  now  I  will  wear  I  care  not  what." 

Though  no  thinker  has  developed  a  priori  the  laws  of  cos- 
tume, an  observer  of  its  phenomena  in  all  ages  would  be 
able  to  reduce  them  to  a  few  original  types. 

There  are  but  two  places  naturally  fitted  to  be  the  points 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


121 


of  support  of  the  principal  portions  of  dress :  over  the 
shoulders,  and  around  the  body  above  the  hips.  "When  at- 
tached by  the  shoulders,  if  no  openings  are  made  for  the 
arms,  or  if  the  sleeves  are  so  full  and  flowing  as  not  to  ap- 
pear distinct  from  the  principal  garment,  some  one  of  the 
varieties  of  cloak  is  produced,  as  the  chlamys,  toga,  peplum, 
palum,  shawl,  cassock,  robe,  cope,  dalmatica,  surplice,  pelisse, 
mantle,  and  mantilla.  If  the  garment  is  closer,  so  that  the 
arms  project  through  it,  and  have  free  play  outside  of  it,  some 
species  of  the  tunic,  various  in  length  and  quality,  is  pro- 
duced, as  the  coat,  waistcoat,  frock  coat,  blouse,  jacket, 
spencer,  jerkin,  doublet,  super-tunic,  surtout,  gown,  bodice, 
kirtle,  chemise  and  shirt.  Garments  attached  by  the  hips  are 
distinguished  into  two  classes,  according  as  they  envelop 
the  legs,  separately  or  together.  Of  the  former  class  are  all 
trouse,  trousers,  breeches,  pantaloons,  pantalettes,  and  draw- 
ers. Of  the  latter  are  the  skirts  or  robes  of  gowns,  aprons, 
and  all  the  petticoats,  as  jupes,  sous-jupes,  joupons,  kilts 
and  farthingales.  The  peculiarities  of  different  classes  are 
often  combined  in  the  same  garment,  the  skirt,  which  hangs 
from  the  waist,  being  united  to  a  bodice,  closely  fitting  the 
upper  part  of  the  body,  and  the  lower  garments  being  often 
suspended  from  the  shoulders  by  straps.  The  coverings  of 
the  head,  feet  and  hands  are  put  on  from  the  extremities, 
and  are  kept  in  place  chiefly  by  being  made  close,  though 
garters,  shoe-buckles  and  strings,  and  occasionally  straps, 
beneath  the  chin,  are  employed  as  fastenings ;  they  include 


122 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


caps,  bats,  hoods,  bonnets,  turbans,  tiaras,  mitres,  crowns, 
chaperons,  cauls,  cowls,  plumes,  crests,  veils,  wimples,  head- 
dresses (coiffures)  commodes,  chaplets,  fillets,  frontals,  peri- 
wigs, perukes,  ornamented  combs,  mufflers,  stockings,  hose, 
boots,  greaves,  buskins,  thongs,  shoes,  slippers,  moccasins, 
socks,  gauntlets,  gloves  and  mittens.  The  neck  and  wrists, 
and  sometimes  also  the  ankles,  are  regarded  as  natural 
sites  for  ornaments,  such  as  collars,  cravats,  ties,  gorgets, 
tippets,  partlets,  chains,  bracelets,  armlets  and  anklets. 
Tresses,  ringlets,  curls,  ear-rings,  finger-rings,  watch-chains, 
and,  rarely,  nose  jewels  and  tattooing  make  a  part  of  cos- 
tume. The  junction  of  different  portions  is  effected  by 
brooches,  clasps,  pins,  buckles,  buttons  and  button-holes, 
hooks  and  eyes,  cords,  ribbons  and  knots. 

Flowing  garments  are  often  brought  close  about  the  waist 
by  a  girdle,  sash,  belt,  or  zone.  Every  surface  may  be  em- 
broidered, furbelowed,  flounced,  trolloped,  or  puffed,  and 
every  border  may  be  furnished  with  fringes,  lappets,  tags, 
aigulet,  frills,  ruffs,  tassels,  scollops,  slashes,  or  various  other 
styles  of  finish.  Among  the  accessories  of  costume  are  the 
fan  and  cane.  Leaves,  feathers,  and  skins,  which  were  the 
first  material  of  clothing,  have  been  succeeded  by  an  im- 
mense array  of  cloths  and  furs,  the  result  of  an  important  in- 
dustry in  almost  every  part  of  the  world,  as  various  in  tex- 
ture and  color  as  are  the  shape  and  purpose  of  the  habiliments 
into  which  they  are  manufactured.  In  Egyptian  and  He- 
brew history,  the  arts  of  weaving,  dyeing,  and  embroidery 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


123 


were  already  in  fashion.  Egyptian  workmen  were  clad  witli 
unrivalled  simplicity,  wearing  generally  only  a  short  apron 
about  the  loins.  They  sometimes  had  also  short  drawers 
reaching  half-way  to  the  knee.  The  higher  orders  wore  the 
same  dress  under  an  ample  tunic  of  fine  linen,  reaching  to 
the  ankle,  and  provided  with  long  sleeves.  Only  the  outer 
and  finer  garments  were  worn  by  women.  The  priests 
usually  wore  the  long  robe  of  linen,  of  so  fine  texture  as  to 
be  transparent,  and  over  it  a  leopard-skin,  as  their  costume 
of  office.  A  wrapper  was  sometimes  bound  around  the 
loose  robe,  covering  the  lower  part  of  the  body  and  falling 
in  front  below  the  knees ;  and  while  bearing  the  sacred  em- 
blems, the  hierophants  frequently  wore  a  long  full  apron, 
tied  in  front  with  long  bands,  and  supported  by  a  strap  over  the 
shoulder.  The  head  was  also  closely  shaved,  but  sometimes 
covered  with  a  wig,  or  tight  cap.  The  texture  of  Egyptian 
linen,  as  proved  by  ancient  representations,  and  by  a  piece 
recently  discovered  near  Memphis,  was  equal  to  that  of  the 
finest  now  made.  The  Israelites  were  strictly  commanded 
(Numb.  xv.  38)  to  make  fringes  on  the  borders  of  their 
garments,  adding  a  blue  ribbon  to  the  edge.  A  skirt  or 
tunic  to  which  a  mantle  was  the  outer  covering,  was  their 
ordinary  dress,  and  is  still  a  frequent  oriental  costume.  The 
Talmud  enumerated  eighteen  garments  which  formed  the 
clothing  of  the  Jews  from  head  to  foot,  among  which  are  two 
sandals  and  two  buskins.  A  figured  girdle  was  worn  around 
the  waist,  in  which  it  was  usual  to  carry  a  knife  or  poniard, 


12-1 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


which  men  of  literary  occupations  replaced  by  an  inkhorn. 
Bells  and  pomegranates  on  the  bottom  of  the  robe  were- 
ornaments  peculiar  to  the  high-priest.  The  dress  of  the 
women  among  the  poorer  classes  seems  to  have  consisted  of 
loose  trousers  and  a  long  gown ;  while  women  of  superior 
condition  wore  over  their  linen  dress  a  mantle  resembling 
that  of  the  men,  but  more  closely  fitting  the  person.  The 
hair  was  worn  Ions:,  braided  with  numerous  tresses,  trinkets, 
and  ribbons ;  and  the  head-dress  was  adorned  with  jewels 
and  pearls.  Ear-rings  and  finger-rings  were  also  fashion- 
able; the  eyelids  and  finger  nails  were  stained,  small  mirrors 
were  hung  about  the  person  as  ornaments  (as  is  still  the 
custom  of  the  Moorish  women  of  Barbary) ;  and  a  nose  jewel 
was  among  the  presents  sent  by  Abraham  to  Rebecca.  The 
dress  of  the  Babylonians  was  a  sort  of  flounced  cylindrical 
robe,  reaching  from  the  neck  to  the  feet.  It  appears  some- 
times on  the  monuments  to  consist  of  two  garments,  a  short 
jacket,  and  an  under- robe  or  petticoat,both  alike  flounced.  The- 
hair  was  worn  long,  and  either  fell  in  copious  tresses  or  was 
confined  by  several  varieties  of  head-dresses.  The  national 
costume  of  the  ancient  Persians  was  a  close-fitting  tunic  and 
trousers  of  leather.  The  Median  dress,  on  the  contrary,  was 
a  loose  flowing  robe,  which  was  applauded  by  Xenophon  as 
concealing  the  form,  and  giving  it  an  appearance  of  grandeur 
and  elegance.  A  long  frock,  girdled  with  a  cloak  of  thicker 
materials  over  it,  was  the  dress  of  the  early  Greeks.  The 
women  were  more  closely  robed  in  a  tunic  or  shirt  falling 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


125 


down  to  the  feet,  surrounded  by  an  ample  shawl  or  scarf,, 
which  not  only  enveloped  the  whole  body,  but  sometimes 
covered  the  head  or  trailed  upon  the  ground.  Flowers  were 
usually  intertwined  with  their  hair.  The  Tyrian  purple  and 
embroidery  of  the  Sidonian  women  were  in  repute  in  the 
Homeric  age.  From  the  time  of  Pericles,  the  tunic  was  the 
principal  article  of  female  attire.  It  was  made  of  linen,  with 
sleeves  covering  only  the  upper  part  of  the  arm,  and,  being 
usually  longer  than  the  body,  was  drawn  up  and  overlapped 
at  the  girdle,  so  as  to  reach  only  to  the  feet.  Hence  resulted 
the  horizontal  and  undulating  folds  below  the  bosom,  joined 
with  the  perpendicular  folds  of  the  skirt,  which  was  a  pro- 
minent characteristic  of  Greek  drapery.  All  of  the  Greek 
outer  garments  were  loosely  attached,  their  chlamys,  pallium, 
(himation)  and  peplum  being  properly  'translated  scarf, 
blanket,  and  shawl.  Unlike  all  the  nations  by  which  they 
were  encircled,  they  wore  nothing  resembling  pantaloons. 
The  national  and  peculiar  garment  of  the  Romans  was  the 
toga.  It  was  a  full  semicircular  robe  of  white  woollen, 
thrown  freely  about  the  body,  flowing  into  many  folds,  and 
worn  in  different  styles  by  every  age  and  rank,  that  for 
priests  and  magistrates  being  bordered  or  striped  with  purple. 
The  corresponding  female  dress  was  the  stola,  which  was 
only  an  outer  and  more  elegant  tunic,  reaching  to  the  ankles 
or  feet,  furnished  with  sleeves,  and  having  a  flounce  at  the 
bottom.  Under  the  flowing  toga  and  stola  were  worn  one 
or  often  two  girdled  and  close  tunics,  which  were  larger  and 


126 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


longer  for  the  females.  The  Eomans  made  their  garments 
chiefly  of  linen  and  woollen,  silk  being  unknown  to  them 
till  after  the  close  of  the  republic.  There  were  celebrated 
Coan  vestments  made  of  muslin  or  gauze,  so  thin  as  hardly 
to  conceal  the  form,  and  which  were  denominated  by  the 
satirists  "  woven  wind."  The  Romans,  like  the  Greeks,  went 
with  head  uncovered,  or  with  only  a  part  of  the  toga  drawn 
over  it,  when  a  cap,  broad-brimmed  hat  (petasus),  or  helmet 
was  worn.  There  were  various  coverings  for  the  feet,  those 
for  the  men  being  usually  of  black  leather,  those  for  the 
women  white,  or  sometimes  red,  or  yellow. 

Early  in  the  14th  century,  fashions  began  to  travel  from 
Italy  through  Paris  to  London.  At  that  period  were  in- 
troduced caps  and  hats  of  various  fantastic  shapes,  plumes, 
and  garments  of  more  delicate  texture,  and  the  women  began 
to  ornament  the  borders  of  their  shifts  around  the  bosom  and 
arms  with  needle-work.  The  female  costume  which  appears 
in  the  painting  of  Giotto  and  his  contemporaries  is  a  robe  or 
super-tunic  flowing  in  folds  to  the  feet,  and  coming  high  up 
in  the  neck,  where  it  was  met  by  the  wimple  of  white  linen. 
The  sleeves  terminated  at  the  elbow  in  lappets,  showing  the 
sleeve  of  the  under  garment,  which  fitted  the  body  tightly. 
The  dress  of  the  ancient  Saxon,  Norman,  Scottish,  and 
Danish  women  was  a  long  girdled  robe,  and  a  fall  flowing 
mantle  fastened  on  the  breast.  Sleeves  and  veils  had  be- 
come so  long  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  that  they  were  tied 
up  in  bows  and  festoons.    Great  extravagance  in  dress  pre- 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


127 


vailed  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III,  when  the  men  wore  silk 
hoods,  parti-colored  coats  with  deep  sleeves  and  narrow 
waists,  short  hose,  long-pointed  shoes,  a  bushy  beard  before 
and  a  tail  of  hair  behind  ;  and  the  ladies  of  distinction  wore 
a  turban  or  lofty  mitre,  with  ribbons  floating  from  it  like 
streamers,  a  tunic  half  of  one  color  and  half  of  another,  and 
a  deeply  embroidered  zone,  in  front  of  which  two  daggers  were 
suspended.  "The  ladies,"  says  a  poet  of  the  period,  "are 
like  peacocks  and  magpies."  The  petticoat  is  first  men- 
tioned by  this  appellation  in  the  15th  century,  when  it  was 
worn  by  both  sexes.  Coat,  or  "  cote,"  became  a  new  name 
for  a  species  of  tunic  about  the  same  time.  The  kirtle,  which 
is  frequently  alluded  to  in  old  romances,  was  the  undergar- 
ment, white  or  more  usually  green,  and  sometimes  laced  close 
to  the  body  like  a  bodice.  Occasionally,  in  Anglo-Norman 
time,  ladies  in  kirtle  alone  served  in  the  hall ;  and  at  the  close 
of  the  15th  century  it  was  a  habit  of  penance,  and  was  worn 
as  such  by  Jane  Shore.  In  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
the  Earl  of  Pembroke  was  the  first  who  wore  knit  stockings 
in  England,  which  were  obtained  from  Mantua;  and  the 
Earl  of  Oxford  brought  also  from  Italy  embroidered  and 
perfumed  gloves.  The  ladies  wore  farthingales  and  muffs 
of  immense  compass;  and  when  the  men  introduced  long 
swords  and  high  ruffs,  the  jealous  queen  appointed  officers 
to  break  every  sword  and  clip  every  gentleman's  ruff  which 
was  beyond  a  certain  size.  The  breeches  fell  far  short  of  the 
knees,  the  defect  being  supplied  by  long  hose.    The  bodice 


128 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


of  a  lady's  dress  was  made  remarkably  long.  The  fashion- 
able hat  had  a  broad  brim  and  a  high  crown,  diminishing 
conically  upward.  In  the  reign  of  James  L  the  cloak  was 
more  worn  than  it  had  been  previously,  and  it  continued  to 
be  in  'fashion  after  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.  Silk  garters 
puffed  in  a  large  knot  were  worn  below  the  knees,  and  knots 
or  roses  adorned  the  shoes.  Yellow  starch  for  ruffs,  in- 
vented by  the  French,  was  introduced  in  this  reign  by  the 
example  of  a  lady  who  soon  after  "  went  to  be  hanged  in  a 
ruff  of  that  color."  Long  coats  were  worn  by  boys  till  they 
were  about  eight  years  of  age,  the  present  costume  of  the 
blue-coat  boys  of  London  being  that  of  the  time  when 
Christ's  Hospital  was  founded.  After  the  restoration  the 
periwig  was  introduced  into  England  from  France ;  and 
though  preachers  inveighed  against  it  in  their  sermons,  it 
soon  became  so  much  the  reigning  mode  that  a  country 
gentleman  is  said  to  have  employed  a  painter  to  place  peri- 
wigs on  the  heads  of  several  of  Vandyke's  portraits.  In  this 
reign  the  clerical  habit  assumed  its  present  form ;  and  it  was 
also  the  era  of  shoe-buckles,  open  sleeves,  pantaloons,  and 
shoulder-knots.  The  ladies  often  wore  green  stockings 
patched  and  painted  their  faces  in  imitation  of  the  French, 
and  affected  a  mean  between  dress  and  nakedness  which 
excited  the  reprehension  of  ecclesiastics.  Pepy's  "Diary" 
gives  many  minute  details  of  the  costume  of  this  period. 
In  the  reign  of  William  and  Mary,  Dryden  complains  that 
"  our  snippers  (tailors)  go  over  once  a  year  into  France  to  bring 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


129 


back  the  newest  mode.  The  coat  worn  by  gentlemen  at 
this  period  was  cut  straight  before,  laced,  and  often  buttoned 
in  front,  with  large  cuffs,  but  no  collar.  It  was  often  fringed 
with  gold  and  silver,  and  adorned  with  tassels.  The  breeches 
were  close,  reaching  below  the  knee,  the  shirt  was  ruffled, 
the  shoes  were  square-toed,  and  the  hats  were  cocked.  The 
peruke,  of  French  origin,  had  expanded  to  an  enormous  size 
at  the  court  of  Louis  XIV.,  and  was  copied  in  England, 
where  it  was  worn  alike  by  beaux,  barristers,  and  the  clergy. 
#'*'*'*>*'** 
Among  the  most  important  works  treating  of  costume 
are  the  Recherches  sur  les  Costumes,  by  Mailot  (Paris,  1804) ; 
the  collection  De  Costumes,  Armes,  et  Meubles^  by  Viel  Castel 
(Paris,  1828-33);  the  Moden  unci  TrachUm,  by  Hauff  (Stutt- 
gart, 1840);  the  Trachtendes  Christlichen  Mittelalters,  by  Hef- 
ner (Frankfort,  1847,  et  seq.);  the  Cootim  Kunde,  by  Weiss 
(Stuttgart,  1856,  etseq.);  the  "Complete  View  of  the  Dress 
and  Habits  of  the  People  of  England,  from  the  establishment 
of  the  Saxons  in  Britain"  (London,  1796-99);  and  the 
very  complete  work  of  Ferrario  on  Ancient  and  Modern  Cos- 
tumes 2d  edition),  Florence,  1823-31. 

American  Encyclopedia,  N.  Y. 

9 


130 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


A  STAB   OF  FASHION —  ENGLISH  BATH  AND 
BEAU  NASH. 


*    *    *    "  Sent  Hermes  to  Batli  in  the  shape  of  a  beau. 

Long  reign'd  the  great  Nash,  this  omnipotent  lord, 

Respected  by  youth,  and  by  parents  adored  ; 

For  him  not  enough  at  a  ball  to  preside — 

The  unwary  and  beautiful  nymph  he  would  guide  ; 

Oft  tell  her  a  tale,  how  the  credulous  maid 

By  man,  by  perfidious  man,  is  betrayed  ; 

Taught  charity's  hand  to  relieve  the  distrest, 

While  tears  have  his  tender  compassion  exprest. 

But  alas !  he  is  gone  !  and  the  city  can  tell, 

How  in  years  and  in.  glory  lamented  he  fell." 

u  But  whom  have  we  here  ?  Who  is  this  ?  Eight  regally 
he  approaches,  right  royal  is  he  in  his  appointment.  His 
six  spanking  grays  whirl  his  chariot  along  in  dashing 
style.  How  animated  look  his  train,  his  out-riders,  and  the 
fellows  clustered  leg  and  wing  behind  his  carriage !  How 
enlivening  the  music  of  the  band  which  accompanies  him  ! 
how  brilliant  the  tone  of  those  horns,  which  startle  the  air 
with  their  clangour !  How  the  people  stop  on  every  side  to 
gaze  on  the  cortege  as  it  passes !  How  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  all  degrees  offer  him  courteous  homage,  which  he  as 
courteously  acknowledges."        *       *  * 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


131 


This  was  the  monarch  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and  an 
absolute  monarch  was  he ;  his  laws  were  like  those  of 
the  Medes  and  Persians,  unalterable ;  but  it  must  be  con- 
ceded to  him  that  he  never  abused  the  "right  divine." 
Survey  we  this  monarch  in  his  rule  : — 

Though  Nash  governed  as  if  born  to  empire,  the  throne  of 
Bath  was  not  his  by  right :  he  had  no  hereditary  claim  ;  he 
was  merely  a  citizen  of  the  world ;  he  was  summoned  by 
the  voices  of  people  to  take  upon  his  shoulders  the  sovereignty 
of  Bath.  He  obeyed  the  call,  and,  like  the  King  of  the  French, 
became  the  King  of  the  People. 

Like  all  the  popular  monarchs,  King  Nash  was  a  strenu- 
ous advocate  of  reform,  and  Bath  promoted  it  with  all  the 
influence  of  his  potential  voice,  and  enforced  it  with  all  the 
weight  of  his  supreme  authority.  His  first  care  was  to  im- 
prove the  accommodations  of  his  seat  of  empire.  When  he 
first  undertook  the  government  of  Bath,  it  was  a  mean,  dirty, 
and  incommodious  place  ;  the  lodgings  for  visitors  were 
shabby,  dirty  and  expensive;  the  public  rooms  were  des- 
ecrated by  all  sorts  of  vulgarity  and  rudeness.  Under  the 
direction  and  authority  of  their  new  monarch,  the  corpora- 
tion of  Bath  re-edified  their  city ;  and  noble  streets,  beautiful 
squares,  verdant  gardens,  soon  combined  their  attractions.  *  * 
He  drew  up  a  code  of  ceremonial  laws  which  he  rigidly  en- 
forced, and  which  were  implicitly  submitted  to  by  the  in- 
habitants and  visitors  of  the  city. 

Like  all  popular  monarchs,  he  became  very  absolute.  An 


132 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


intimation  of  his  royal  will  carried  with  it  the  form  of  a 
mandate  with  all  the  gentle  sex ;  the  other  was  often  refrac- 
tory. The  King,  however,  was  firm,  and  invariably,  in  the 
end,  successful.  Beau  Nash  had  the  unusual  good  fortune 
to  be  thrown  by  circumstances  into  the  very  position  in 
which  he  was  qualified  to  shine.  The  strictest  etiquette 
was  enforced,  and  the  claims  of  precedence  were  rigidly  ad- 
hered to.  In  the  duead  justment  of  these,  Nash  was  unri- 
valled, and  doubtless  derived  therefrom  no  small  portion  of 
the  respect  and  deference  with  which  he  was  uniformly 
treated ;  and  a  great  addition  was  made  to  the  comfort  of  the 
vast  number  of  respectable  middle  classes  who  resorted  to 
Bath,  in  the  courteous  treatment  which  the  monarch  of  all 
exacted  from  them,  from  those  titled  individuals  who  had 
hitherto  arrogated  somewhat  too  much  to  themselves  from 
the  circumstance  of  their  rank. 

At  this  time  the  bath  itself  was  the  first  fashionable  resort 
in  the  morning,  whither  the  ladies  were  conveyed  in  chairs, 
attired  in  their  bathing-dresses,  but  with  their  heads  dressed 
as  if  for  an  evening  assembly ;  and  while  their  bodies  were 
receiving  the  benefit  of  the  healing  waters,  their  beaming 
countenances  were  turned  to  the  surrounding  gallery,  whith- 
er the  gentlemen  duly  repaired  to  pay  their  morning  compli- 
ments to  the  fair.  Soft  music  played  around ;  and  that  no 
luxury  might  be  wanting,  no  sense  ungratified,  each  lady 
had  a  small  floating-dish  by  her  side,  containing  her  pocket- 
handkerchief,  nosegay  and  snuff-box.    Could  the  gods  in 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


133 


Elysium  have  more  ? — Ye  powers  ! — a  finely-dressed  head 
a  warm  bath,  a  crowd  of  beaux,  a  baud  of  music,  a  bunch  of 
flowers,  and  a  snuff-box ! 

Our  readers  need  hardly  be  told  that  those  were  the  days 
of  minuets  and  country-dances.  Quadrilles  were  unknown. 
Even  the  parent  cotillion  had  not  appeared.  Gtallopades 
were  unheard  of.  Mazurkas  were  hidden  in  the  womb  of 
time.  Polkas  were  an  impossibility.  And  as  to  the  exotic 
waltz,  graceful  though  it  be,  young  Englishwomen  of  those 
days,  how  wanting  soever  in  some  of  the  refining  character- 
istics of  these,  had  not  learnt  unblushingly  to  confide  them- 
selves to  the  arms  of  mere  acquaintances  of  the  other  sex ; 
to  bear  their  close  and  not  always  respectful  gaze ;  to  feel 
their  very  breath  on  their  necks,  their  cheeks,  fanning  the 
hair  that  strays  on  their  face  !  Englishwomen  can  do  this 
now;  aye,  and  deem  themselves  modest;  but — it  is  the 
fashion. 

Amid  a  mass  of  frivolity  and  trifling,  profusion  and  petty 
parade,  many  are  the  anecdotes  recorded  of  Nash  which 
would  confer  lustre  on  any  man.  He  was  a  most  shrewd 
and  inveterate  censor  of  slander  and  calumny  ;  this  qualifi- 
cation was  an  invaluable  one  to  the  Master  of  the  Ceremonies 
at  a  fashionable  and  frivolous  watering-place.  His  heart  was 
most  kind,  his  generosity  great ;  and  though  himself  a  pro 
fessed  gamester,  he  was  never  weary  in  his  endeavors  to  pre- 
vent the  young  and  inexperienced  from  gaining  the  habit, 
or  from  being  the  dupes  of  another.    To  the  young  of  both 


134 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


sexes,  but  to  the  fair  especially,  lie  was  at  all  times  a  kind, 
a  cautious,  and  a  disinterested  adviser ;  and  the  grave  was 
not  closer  than  himself,  on  any  domestic  secret  committed 
to  his  keeping.  *  *  *  Nash's  rule  became  absolute,  and 
he  was  in  acts  and  in  reality  what  he  was  universally  called 
— the  King  of  Bath. 

To  the  sick  poor,  who  congregated  at  Bath  for  the  benefit 
of  its  healing  waters,  he  was  a  generous  and  unfailing  bene- 
factor ;  if  not  in  his  own  person, — for  he  had  seldom  money 
to  give, — by  his  personal  exertions  and  his  great  influence 
with  others.  He  was  the  main  engine  in  the  erection  of  an 
hospital  free  to  the  poor  of  all  England,  who  required  the 
Bath  waters. 

Surely  this  man  should  not-  descend  to  posterity  as  a  mere 
beau — the  peer  only  of  Fielding  and  Brummell. —  Chronicles 
of  Fashion,  London,  1845. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


135 


JESSA  YS  ON  DRESS  AND  FASHION— 1790-1868. 


The  formalities  of  the  18th  century  received  a  severe 
blow,  at  the  French  Eevolution ;  and  in  the  ten  years  from 
1790  to  1800,  a  more  complete  change  was  effected  in  dress, 
by  the  spontaneous  action  of  the  people,  than  had  taken 
place  at  any  previous  period  in  a  century.  The  change  be- 
gan in  France,  partly  to  mark  a  contempt  for  old  court 
usages,  and  partly  in  imitation  of  certain  classes  of  persons 
in  England  whose  costume  the  French  mistook  for  that  of  the 
nation  generally.  Thus  new  French  dress  was  introduced  by 
the  party  who  were  styled  the  Sans  Culottes.  It  consisted 
of  a  round  hat,  a  short  coat,  a  light  waistcoat,  and  pantaloons, 
a  handkerchief  was  tied  loosely  round  the  neck,  with  the 
ends  long,  and  hanging  down,  and  showing  the  shirt-collar 
above ;  the  hair  was  cut  short,  without  powder,  d  la  Titus  ; 
and  the  shoes  were  tied  with  strings. 

The  comparatively  simple  form  of  dress  of  the  Sans  Cu- 
lottes found  many  admirers  in  England,  and  soon  became 
common  among  young  men ;  a  change  from  the  antique 
fashions  was  also  greatly  helped  by  the  imposition  of  a  tax 
on  the  use  of  hair-powder,  which  was  henceforth  usually 


136 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


abandoned.  Pantaloons  which  fitted  close  to  the  legs  re- 
mained in  very  common  use  by  those  persons  who  had 
adopted  them,  till  about  the  year  1814,  when  the  wearing 
of  trousers,  already  introduced  into  the  army,  became  fash- 
ionable. It  is  proper,  however,  to  mention  that  trousers  had, 
for  the  previous  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  been  used  by  boys  and 
were  perhaps  from  them  adopted  by  the  army.  Previous  to 
the  French  Kevolution,  the  dress  of  boys  was  almost  the 
same  as  that  of  men.  Although  trousers — called  by  the 
Americans  pants— were  generally  worn  after  1815,  many 
elderly  persons  still  held  out  in  knee-breeches  against  all  in- 
novations ;  and  of  the  present  clay,  an  aged  gentleman  may 
occasionally  be  seen  clinging  to  this  18th  century  form  of 
dress.  The  general  use  of  white  neckcloths  continued,  not- 
withstanding the  introduction  of  the*  standing  collar,  till  the 
reign  of  George  IV.,  when  this  monarch's  taste  for  wearing 
a  black  silk  kerchief  or  stock,  and  also  the  use  of  black 
stocks  in  the  army,  caused  a  remarkably  quick  abandonment 
of  white  neckcloths,  and  the  adoption  of  black  instead.  The 
year  1825,  or  thereabouts,  was  the  era  of  this  signal  improve- 
ment in  costume. 

While  these  leading  changes  were  effecting,  other  altera- 
tions of  a  less  conspicuous  nature  were  from  time  to  time 
taking  place.  The  disbanding  of  the  army  after  the  Peace 
of  1815,  led  to  various  transformations  besides  those  we 
have  mentioned.  While  pantaloons  were  the  fashionable 
dress,  it  became  customary  to  wear  Hessian  boots ;  these, 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


137 


which  had  originated  among  the  Hessian  troops,  were 
without  tops,  and  were  worn  with  small  silk  tassels  dangling 
from  a  cut  in  front,  being  drawn  over  the  lower  part  of  the 
pantaloons.  They  had  a  neat  appearance  ;  but  the  keeping  of 
them  clean  formed  a  torment  that  prevented  their  universal 
use.  *  *  When  trousers  were  introduced  from  the 
practice  of  the  army,  the  use  of  Wellington  boots  to  go 
beneath  them  also  became  common.  Referring  to  the  era  of 
1815  to  1825,  as  that  in  which  trousers,  Wellington  boots, 
and  black  neckcloths  or  stocks  came  into  vogue,  we  may 
place  the  introduction  of  surtout  in  the  same  period  of  his- 
tory. From  the  time  when  the  collarless  and  broad-skirted 
coat  had  disappeared,  about  the  commencement  of  the  Cen- 
tury, the  fashion  of  coats  had  changed  in  various  ways  till 
the  above-named  era,  when  the  loose  frock-coat  or  surtout 
was  added  to  the  list  of  garments. 

Such  is  a  general  account  of  the  progress  of  fashion  in 
England,  until  nearly  the  present  day.  In  these  fashions, 
the  Welsh,  Irish,  and  Scotch  have  participated  ;  and  there  is 
now  little  to  distinguish  the  inhabitants  of  one  part  of  the 
United  Kingdom  from  another. 

Some  differences  exist  in  particular  localities,  as,  for  in- 
stance, the  round  hats  of  the  women  in  Wales,  the  checked 
gray  plaid  of  the  Lowland  Scottish  peasantry,  and  the  kilts 
of  the  Highlanders.    *    *  * 

The  general  simplifying  of  dress  subsequent  to  1815  was 
not  accompanied  by  an  expiring  effort  to  sustain  a  high 


13S 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


style  of  fashion.  The  macaroni,  or  highly  dressed  beau  of 
the  18th  century,  was  succeeded  by  the  dandy,  who,  with 
mincing,  affected  manners,  prided  himself  on  his  starched 
collars,  his  trouser-straps,  and  the  flashy  bunch  of  seals 
which  dangled  from  his  watch-chain. 

The  Regency  was  the  era  of  this  kind  of  supreme  dandy- 
ism, but  it  continued  till  later  times,  and  characterized  a 
number  of  leading  public  personages,  of  whom  notices  occur 
in  "  Raikes's  Reminiscences"  from  1831  to  1851.  In  the 
present  day  may  be  noted  a  kind  of  breakdown  of  every- 
thing like  formality  in  gentlemen's  walking  costume  ;  plain 
cloths,  of  divers  hues,  called  tweeds  have  almost  super- 
seded materials  of  a  superior  quality.  Cloth  caps,  or 
soft  felted  hats,  called  wide-awakes,  cover  the  heads ; 
and  the  feet  are  covered  with  short  ankle  boots  instead 
of  Wellingtons.  In  the  evening  or  dinner  costume,  how- 
ever, the  old  etiquette  of  dress  coats  and  white  neckcloths 
is  still  maintained.  Among  the  changes  that  are  taking 
place  in  the  morning  or  walking  dress,  none  is  so  remarkable 
as  the  growing  fashion  of  wearing  Knickerbockers. 

These  are  wide  loose  trousers  to  below  the  knee,  leaving 
the  lower  part  of  the  leg  only  stockinged  or  covered  with 
leggings.  This  fashion,  which  has  been  copied  more  imme- 
diately from  the  French  Zouaves,  and  partly  perhaps 
from  the  common  practice  of  stuffing  the  lower  parts 
of  the  trousers  roughly  into  boots  in  the  western  regions 
of  the  United  States,  is  very  much  a  resumption  of  the  cos- 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION.  139 


tumes  seen  in  old  Dutch  prints.  Should  it  become  general, 
leg-gaiters  or  boots  will  come  again  into  use,  and  the  present 
generation  may  live  to  see  the  fashion  of  male  attire  work 
once  more  round  to  the  knee-breeches  of  the  18th  century. 
In  female  as  well  as  in  male  costume,  fashion  seems  to  have 
a  tendency  to  work  in  a  circle  ;  of  this  the  resumption  of 
the  farthingale  or  hoop,  under  the  name  of  crinoline,  *  #  * 
offers  a  sufficient  example,  besides  affording  a  ludicrous 
instance  of  the  unreasoning  manner  in  which  extravagances 
in  dress  are  usually  followed.  It  is  to  be  observed,  howeven 
that  Englishwomen,  chargeable  as  they  are  with  this  ab- 
surdity, set  a  most  creditable  example  to  their  sex  all  over 
the  world,  in  allowing  no  fantastic  change  of  fashion  to  pre- 
vent them  from  taking  out-door  exercise  in  all  weathers,  to 
which  a  recent  introduction  of  India-rubber  goloshes 
has  materially  aided. 

As  to  the  moral  view  that  may  be  taken  of  the  whimsi 
calities  of  female  fashions,  we  might  refer  to  the  numerous 
papers  of  Steele,  in  the  Tatler  and  Spectator,  and  also  the 
writings  of  other  18th  century  essayists.  Passing  these  over, 
it  is  enough  to  quote  the  words  of  Hazlitt,  a  more  recent 
essayist.  "  Fashion,"  he  says,  "  constantly  begins  and  ends 
in  two  things  it  abhors  most — singularity  and  vulgarity. 
It  is  the  perpetual  setting  up,  and  then  disowning  a  certain 
standard  of  taste,  elegance,  and  refinement,  which  has  no 
other  formation  or  authority  than  that  it  is  the  prevailing 
distraction  of  the  moment,  which  was  yesterday  ridiculous 


140  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 

from  its  being  new,  and  to-morrow  it  will  be  odious  from 
its  being  common.  It  is  one  of  the  most  slight  and  insig- 
nificant of  all  things.  It  cannot  be  lasting,  for  it  depends 
on  the  constant  change  and  shifting  of  its  own  harlequin 
disguises  ;  it  cannot  be  sterling,  for,  if  it  were,  it  could  not 
depend  on  the  breath  of  caprice  ;  it  must  be  superficial  to 
produce  its  immediate  effect  on  the  gaping  crowd,  and 
frivolous  to  admit  of  its  being  assumed  at  pleasure,  by  the 
number  of  those  who  affect  to  be  in  fashion,  to  be  distin- 
guished from  the  rest  of  the  world.  It  is  not  anything  in 
itself,  nor  the  sign  of  anything,  but  the  folly  and  vanity  of 
those  who  rely  upon  it  as  their  greatest  pride  and  ornament. 
It  takes  the  firmest  hold  of  weak,  flimsy,  and  narrow  minds ; 
of  those  whose  emptiness  conceives  of  nothing  excellent 
but  what  is  thought  so  by  others.  That  which  is  good  for 
anything  is  the  better  for  being  widely  diffused.  But  fash- 
ion is  the  abortive  issue  of  vain  ostentation  and  exclusive 
egotism  ;  it  is  haughty,  trifling,  affected,  servile,  despotic, 
mean  and  ambitious,  precise  and  fantastical,  all  in  a  breath; 
tied  to  no  rule,  and  bound  to  conform  to  every  rule  of  the 
minute."  For  a  large  variety  of  amusing  particulars  con- 
cerning fashions,  with  stars  of  fashion,  etc.,  during  the 
past  two  centuries,  we  refer  to  Mrs.  Stone's  Chronicles  of 
Fashion  (Lond.  2  vols.  1845). — Chambers's  Encylopedia, 
1868. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


141 


FASHION  AND  ITS  LEADERS. 


"  A  story,"  says  an  eminent  writer,  "is  never  too  old  to 
tell,  if  it  be  made  to  sound  new."  If  this  be  true,  I  may  be 
excused  for  relating  the  following  veritable  history  : — ■ 

In  an  Indian  jungle  there  once  resided  a  tawny  jackal,  a 
member,  as  all  those  animals  are,  of  a  jackal  club,  which 
met  at  night  in  the  said  jungle.  It  was  the  custom  for  the 
different  subscribers  to  separate  early  in  the  evening  on  pre- 
datory excursions ;  and  on  one  occasion,  the  individual  in 
question  having  dined  very  sparingly  that  day  on  a  leg  of 
horse,  ventured,  in  hopes  of  a  supper,  within  the  precincts 
of  a  neighboring  town.  It  happened  that  while  employed 
in  the  prowling  distinctive  of  his  kind,  he  fell  into  a  sunken 
vat  filled  with  indigo,  and  when  he  had  contrived  to  strug- 
gle out  again,  discovered,  by  the  light  of  the  moon,  that  his 
coat  had  assumed  a  brilliant  blue  tinge.  In  vain  he  rolled 
himself  on  the  grass  ;  in  vain  rubbed  his  sides  against  the 
bushes  of  the  jungle,  to  which  he  speedily  returned.  The 
blue  stuck  to  him ;  and  so,  with  the  acuteness  with  which 
jackals  are  renowned,  he  determined  to  " stick  to"  it. 


142 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


Shame,  indeed,  would  have  overcome  him,  ridicule  have 
driven  him  to  despair,  when  he  rejoined  his  club,  but  for 
this  resolution.  That  very  morning  he  appeared  among  his 
kind,  whisking  his  tail  with  glee,  and  holding  his  head 
erect.  A  titter,  of  course,  welcomed  him,  and  before  long  you 
would  have  thought  that  every  jackal  present  had  been 
turned  into  a  laughing  hyena.  Our  hero  was  nothing 
abashed.  "  Gentlemen,"  said  he,  in  the  dialect  of  Hindus- 
tan, peculiar  to  his  kind,  "  I  have  been  to  town,  and  bring 
you  the  last  new  fashion."  The  laughter  changed  to  respect- 
ful admiration.  One  by  one,  the  members  of  the  club  stole 
up  to  him,  and  inquired  where  he  had  met  with  the  color- 
ing, just  as  George  IY.  asked  Brummell  what  tailor  had 
made  that  coat.  The  address  was  imparted,  and  if  on  the 
following  evening,  not  all  of  the  prowling  beasts  appeared 
in  a  blue  coat,  it  was  only  because  three  of  them  had  been 
drowned  in  the  attempt  to  procure  it. — Habits  of  Good 
Society,  K  Z,  1869. 

Dress  and  sin  came  in  together,  and  have  kept  good  fel- 
lowship ever  since.  If  we  could  doubt,  as  some  have  done, 
the  authenticity  of  the  Pentateuch,  we  should  have  to  admit 
that  its  author  was  at  least  the  shrewdest  observer  of  man- 
kind, inasmuch  as  he  makes  a  love  of  dress  the  first  conse- 
quences of  the  fall.  That  it  really  was  so,  we  can  be  certain 
from  the  fact  that  it  has  always  accompanied  an  absence  of 
goodness.  The  best  dressers  of  every  age  have  always  been 
the  worst  men  and  women.     We  do  not  pretend  that 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


143 


the  converse  is  true,  and  that  the  best  people  always 
dressed  the  worst.  Plato  was  at  once  a  beau  and  a  philoso- 
pher, and  Descartes  was  the  former  before  he  aspired  to  be 
the  latter.  But  the  love  of  dress,  take  it  as  you  will, 
can  only  arise  from  one  of  two  closely-allied  sins,  vanity  and 
pride ;  and  when  in  excess,  as  in  the  miserable  beaux  of  dif- 
ferent ages,  it  becomes  as  ridiculous  in  a  man  as  the  glee  of 
a  South  Sea  Islander  over  a  handful  of  worthless  glass 
beads.  No  life  can  be  more  contemptible  than  one  of  which 
the  Helicon  is  a  tailor's  shop,  and  its  paradise  the  park ;  no 
man  more  truly  wretched  than  he  whose  mind  is  only  a  mir- 
ror of  his  body,  and  whose  soul  can  fly  no  higher  than  a 
hat  or  a  necktie;  who  strangles,  ambition  with  a  yard- 
measure,  and  suffocates  glory  in  a  book.  But  this  puny 
peacockism  always  brings  its  own  punishment.  The  fop 
ruins  himself  by  his  vanity,  and  ends  a  sloven,  like  Good- 
man, first  a  well-dressed  student  of  Cambridge,  then  an 
actor,  then  a  highwayman,  who  was  at  last  reduced  to  share 
a  shirt  with  a  fellow-fool,  and  had  to  keep  his  room  on  the 
days  when  the  other  wore  it. 

#  -x-  *  "  To  be  well  dressed  is  to  be  dressed  precisely 
as  the  occasion,  place,  weather,  your  height,  figure,  position, 
age — and  remember  it — your  means,  require.  It  is  to  be 
clothed  without  peculiarity,  pretension,  or  eccentricit}^ ; 
without  violent  colors,  elaborate  ornament,  or  senseless  fash- 
ions, introduced  often  by  tailors  for  their  own  profit.  Good 


144 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


dressing  is  to  wear  as  little  jewelry  as  possible,  to  be  scrupu- 
lously neat,  clean  and  fresh,  and  to  carry  your  clothes  as  if 
you  did  not  give  them  a  thought," — Ibid. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


145 


OF  THE  BEAUTY  OF  COLORS. 


The  greatest  part  of  colors  are  connected  with  a  kind  of 
established  imagery  in  our  minds,  and  are  considered  as 
expressive  of  many  very  pleasing  and  affecting  qualities. 

These  associaiions  may  perhaps  be  included  in  the  follow- 
ing enumeration :  1st,  Such  as  arise  from  the  nature  of  the 
objects  thus  permanently  colored.  2dly,  such  as  arise  from 
some  analogy  between  certain  colors,  and  certain  dispositions 
of  mind ;  and,  3dly,  such  as  arise  from  accidental  connections, 
whether  national  or  particular. 

1.  When  we  have  been  accustomed  to  see  any  object  ca- 
pable of  exciting  emotion,  distinguished  by  some  fixed  or 
permanent  color,  we  are  apt  to  extend  to  the  color  the  qual- 
ities of  the  object  thus  colored;  and  to  feel  from  it,  when 
separated,  some  degree  of  the  same  emotion,  which  is  prop- 
erly excited  by  the  object  itself.  Instances  of  this  kind  are 
are  within  every  person's  observation.  White,  as  it  is  the 
color  of  day,  is  expressive  to  us  of  the  cheerfulness  or  gaiety 
which  the  return  of  day  brings.  Black  is  the  color  of  dark- 
ness,  and  is  expressive  of  gloom  and  melancholy.  The  color  of 


146  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 

the  heavens,  in  serene  weather,  is  blue ;  blue  is  therefore 
expressive  to  us  of  somewhat  of  the  same  pleasing  and  tem- 
perate character.  Green  is  the  color  of  the  earth  in  spring  ; 
it  is  consequently  expressive  to  us  of  some  of  those  delight- 
ful images  which  we  associate  with  the  season.  The  colors  of 
the  vegetables  and  minerals  acquire,  in  the  same  manner,  a 
kind  of  character,  from  the  character  of  the  species  which 
they  distinguish.  The  expression  of  those  colors,  which  are 
signs  of  particular  passions  in  the  human  countenance,  and 
which,  from  this  connection,  derive  their  effect,  everyone  is 
acquainted  with.  2.  There  are  many  colors  which  derive 
expression  from  some  analogy  we  discover  between  them 
and  certain  affections  of  the  human  mind.  Soft  or  strong, 
mild  or  bold,  gay  or  gloomy,  cheerful  or  solemn,  etc.,  are 
terms  obviously  metaphorical,  and  the  use,  which  indicates 
their  connection  with  particular  qualities  of  the  mind.  In 
the  same  manner,  different  degrees  or  shades  of  the  same 
color  have  similar  character,  as  strong,  or  temperate 
or  gentle,  etc.  In  consequence  of  this  association,  which  is 
in  truth  so  strong  that  it  is  to  be  found  among  all  mankind, 
such  colors  derive  a  character  from  this  semblance,  and  pro- 
duce in  our  minds  some  faint  degree  of  the  same  emotion, 
which  the  qualities  they  express  are  fitted  to  produce. 
3.  Many  colors  acquire  character  from  accidental  associa- 
tion. Purple,  for  instance,  has  acquired  a  character  of  dig- 
nity, from  its  accidental  connection  with  the  dress  of  kings. 
The  colors  of  ermine  have  a  similar  character,  from  the 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


147 


same  cause.  The  colors  in  every  country  which  distinguish 
the  dress  of  magistrates,  judges,  etc.,  acquire  dignity  in  the 
same  manner.  Scarlet,  in  this  country,  as  the  color  which 
distinguishes  the  dress  of  the  army,  has,  in  some  measure,  a 
character  correspondent  to  its  employment,  and  it  was  per- 
haps this  association,  though  unknown  to  himself,  that  in- 
duced the  blind  man,  mentioned  by  Mr.  Locke,  to  liken  his 
notion  of  scarlet  to  the  sound  of  a  trumpet.  Every  person 
will,  in  the  same  manner,  probably  recollect  the  particular 
colors  which  are  pleasing  to  him.,  from  their  having  been 
worn  by  people  whom  he  loved,  or  from  some  other  acciden- 
tal association.  In  these  several  ways,  colors  become  sig- 
nificant to  us  of  many  interesting  or  affecting  qualities,  and 
excite  in  us  some  degree  of  the  emotions  which  such  qualities 
in  themselves  are  fitted  to  produce.  Whether  some  colors 
may  not  of  themselves  produce  agreeable  sensations,  and 
others  disagreeable  sensations,  lam  not  anxious  to  dispute.; 
but  whatever  colors  are  felt,  as  producing  the  emotion  of 
beauty,  that  it  is  by  means  of  their  expression,  and  not 
from  any  original  fitness  in  the  colors  themselves  to  pro- 
duce this  effect,  may  perhaps  be  obvious. 


148 


ANCIENT  AND  MODEKN  FASHION. 


FORM,  EXPRESSION,  ATTITUDE. 


It  is  very  easy  to  see  that  the  most  different  forms  of  fea- 
ture are  actually  beautiful,  and  that  their  beauty  uniformly 
arises  from  the  expressions  of  which  they  are  significant  to 
us.  The  open  forehead  is  expressive  to  us  of  candor  and 
generosity,  and  suits  a  countenance  which  has  that  expres- 
sion. The  low  forehead,  on  the  contrary,  is  expressive  to 
us  of  thought,  of  gloom,  or  melancholy.  It  becomes,  there- 
fore, a  different  expression  of  countenance.  The  full  and 
blooming  cheek  suits  the  countenance  of  youth  and  mirth, 
and  female  lovliness ;  the  sunken  and  faded  cheek,  the  face 
of  sensibility  or  grief,  or  of  penitence ;  the  raised  lip,  the 
elevated  brow,  the  rapid  motion  of  the  eye,  are  all  the  con- 
comitants of  joyous  beauty.  The  reverse  of  all  these — the 
depressed  lip,  the  contracted  eyebrow,  the  slow  and  languid 
motion  of  the  eye — are  the  circumstances  which  we  expect 
and  require  in  the  countenance  of  sorrow  or  of  sensibility. 
Change  any  of  the  conformations,  give  to  the  open  and  can- 
did countenance  the  low  forehead,  to  the  face  of  grief  the 
fresh  and  blooming  cheek  of  joy,  to  the  mourner  the  raised 
lip,  or  the  elevated  eyebrow,  which  are  expressive  to  us  of 
cheerful  or  joyous  passions,  and  the  picture  becomes  a  mon- 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


149 


ster,  from  which  even  the  most  vulgar  taste  would  fly  as 
from  something  unnatural  and  disgusting.  If  there  were 
any  real  and  original  beauty  in  such  conformations,  nothing 
of  this  kind  could  happen ;  and  however  discordant  were 
our  emotions  of  beauty  and  of  sentiment,  we  should  still 
feel  these  conformations  beautiful,  just  as  we  perceive,  under 
all  circumstances,  colors  to  be  permanently  colors,  or  forms 
to  be  forms. 

The  slight  illustrations  which  I  have  now  offered,  seems 
to  me  sufficient  to  convince  those  who  will  prosecute  them, 
that  there  is  no  original  beauty  in  any  peculiar  or  distinct 
forms  of  the  human  features.  There  is  another  illustration 
which  perhaps  may  still  more  strongly  show  the  real  origin 
of  such  beauty  to  consist  in  the  expressions  of  which  they 
are  significant,  viz. :  That  the  same  form  of  feature  is  beau- 
tiful or  not,  just  as  it  is  expressive  or  not  of  qualities  of 
mind  which  are  amiable  or  interesting  to  us.  With  regard 
to  the  permanent  features,  every  one  must  have  remarked, 
that  the  same  form  of  feature  which  is  beautiful  in  the  one 
sex,  is  not  beautiful  in  the  other ;  that,  as  there  is  a  different 
expression,  there  are  different  signs  by  which  we  expect  them 
to  be  signified ;  and  that,  in  consequence,  the  same  signs  are 
productive  of  very  different  emotions,  when  they  are  thus 
significant  of  improper  or  of  unamiable  expressions.  They 
who  are  conversant  in  the  productions  of  the  fine  arts,  must 
have  equally  observed,  that  the  forms  and  proportions  of 
features  which  the  sculptor  and  the  painter  have  given  to 


150  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


their  works,  are  very  different,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  character  they  represent,  and  the  emotion  they  wish  to 
excite.  The  form  of  proportions  of  the  features  of  Jove  are 
different  from  those  of  Hercules ;  those  of  Apollo  from  those 
of  Ganymede ;  those  of  the  Faun  from  those  of  the  Gladia- 
tor. In  female  beauty,  the  form  and  proportions  in  the  fea- 
tures of  Juno  are  very  different  from  those  of  Venus ;  those 
of  Minerva  from  those  of  Diana ;  those  of  Niobe  from  those 
of  the  Graces.  All,  however,  are  beautiful,  because  all  are 
adapted  with  exquisite  taste  to  the  characters  they  wish  the 
countenance  to  express.  Let  the  theorist  change  them,  and 
substitute  for  this  varied  and  significant  beauty  the  forms 
which  he  chooses  to  consider  as  solely  beautiful,  and  the 
experiment  will  very  soon  show  that  the  beauty  of  these 
forms  is  not  original  and  independent,  but  relative  and  sig- 
nificant, and  that,  when  they  cease  to  be  expressive  of  the 
character  we  expect,  they  cease  in  the  same  moment  to  be 
beautiful. 

*  ****** 
Of  this  second  theory,  therefore,  "that  there  are  certain  re- 
lations or  proportions  of  the  different  parts  of  the  human 
form,  which  are  originally  and  essentially  beautiful,  and  from 
the  perception  of  which  all  our  sentiment  of  beauty  in  this 
respect  arises  " — it  is,  I  trust,  now  unnecessary  for  me  to  enter 
into  any  lengthened  refutation.  Yet,  as  some  opinions  of 
this  kind  yet  linger  among  connoisseurs  and  men  of  taste, 
and  as  the  anxiety  for  some  definite  rules  of  judgment  is 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


151 


ever  more  prevalent  among  such  men  than  the  desire  of  in- 
vestigating their  truth,  it  may  not  be  unuseful  to  suggest  the 
following  very  simple  considerations,  which  every  one  of 
my  intelligent  readers  must  fully  have  anticipated. 

If  there  were  any  definite  proportions  of  the  parts  of  the 
human  form,  which,  by  the  constitution  of  our  nature,  were 
solely  and  essentially  beautiful,  it  must  inevitably  have  fol- 
lowed, that  the  beauty  of  these  proportions  must  have  been 
as  positively  and  definitely  settled  as  the  relations  of  justice 
or  of  geometry. 

To  take  an  original  sense  for  granted,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  suppose  that  the  indications  of  this  sense  are  varia- 
ble, or  contradictory,  is  a  solecism  in  reasoning  which  no 
man  will  venture  to  support.  If  such  a  sense  is  supposed, 
then  the  universal  opinion  of  mankind  ought  to  be  found 
to  agree  in  some  precise  and  definite  proportion  of  the  parts 
of  the  human  form.  If  the  opinions  of  mankind  do  not 
agree  in  such  certain  and  definite  proportion,  then  no  pecu- 
liar sense  can  be  supposed  to  exist,  by  which  these  senti- 
ments are  received. 

That  not  only  the  sentiments  of  mankind  do  not  agree 
upon  this  subject,  but  that  the  sentiments  of  the  same  indi- 
vidual differ  in  a  most  material  manner,  is  a  truth  very  sus- 
ceptible of  illustration.  There  is  no  form,  perhaps,  in  nature 
which  admits  of  such  variety,  both  in  appearance  and  pro- 
portion of  parts,  as  the  body  of  man,  and  which,  therefore, 
seems  so  little  capable  of  being  reduced  to  any  definite  sys- 


152 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


tern  of  proportion.  The  proportions  of  the  form  of  the 
infant  are  different  from  those  of  youth;  these  again,  from 
those  of  manhood  ;  and  these  again,  perhaps,  still  more  from 
those  of  old  age  and  decay.  If  there  were  any  instinctive 
sense  of  beauty  in  form  in  this  long  history,  there  would  be 
one  age  only  in  which  this  sense  could  be  gratified.  Yet 
every  one  knows,  not  only  that  each  of  these  periods  is  sus- 
ceptible of  beautiful  form,  but,  what  is  much  more,  that  the 
actual  beauty  in  every  period  consists  in  the  preservation  of 
the  proportions  peculiar  to  that  period,  and  that  these  differ 
in  every  article  almost  from  those  that  are  beautiful  in  other 
periods  of  the  life  of  the  same  individual.  The  same  obser- 
vation is  yet  still  more  obvious  with  regard  to  the  difference 
of  sex.  In  every  part  of  the  form,  the  proportions  which  are 
beautiful  in  the  two  sexes  are  different,  and  the  application 
of  the  proportions  of  the  one  to  the  form  of  the  other  is 
everywhere  felt  as  painful  and  disgusting.  If,  however, 
there  were  any  original  and  essential  beauty  in  some  definite 
proportion  of  parts,  such  effects  could  never  happen.  This 
definite  proportion  in  every  case  would  be  solely  beautiful, 
and  every  variation  from  it  would  affect  us  as  a  deviation  or 
opposition  to  the  genuine  form  of  beauty.  It  may  be  ob- 
served in  the  same  manner,  that  if  the  beauty  of  form  con- 
sisted in  any  original  proportion,  the  productions  of  the  fine 
arts  would  everywhere  have  testified  it ;  and  that  in  the  works 
of  the  statuary  and  the  painter,  we  should  have  found  only 
this  sole  and  sacred  system  of  proportion. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


153 


The  fact,  however,  is  (and  every  one  knows),  that  in  such 
productions,  no  such  rule  is  observed ;  that  there  is  no  one 
proportion  of  parts  which  belongs  to  the  most  beautiful  pro- 
ductions of  these  arts ;  that  the  proportions  of  the  Apollo, 
for  instance,  are  different  from,  those  of  the  Hercules ;  the 
Antinoijs,  from  the  Gladiator,  etc.;  and  that  there  are  not,  in 
the  whole  catalogue  of  ancient  statues,  two,  perhaps,  of  which 
the  proportions  are  the  same.  Against  the  hypothesis  of  an 
instinctive  beauty  in  proportion,  no  fact  can  be  so  decisive 
as  this.  If  there  were  any  original  beauty  in  peculiar  pro- 
portions of  the  human  form,  the  artists  of  antiquity  must 
have  perceived  it  when  it  was  so  easy  a  matter  to  ascertain 
it  only  by  the  labor  of  measurement  and  calculation ;  and 
that  their  productions  are  independent  of  such  definite  pro- 
portions, and  that  their  effect  is  still  produced,  amid  all  this 
variation  of  proportion,  are  irrefragable  proofs  not  only  that 
the  beauty  of  their  works  is  not  dependent  upon  such  a 
theory  of  proportion,  but  that  it  arises  from  some  higher 
causes  and  from  some  more  profound  attention  to  those  feel- 
ings of  human  nature  in  which  the  sentiment  of  beauty  is  to 
be  found. 

If  there  were  any  original  beauty  in  certain  proportions  of 
the  human  form  (independent  of  all  other  considerations), 
then  it  must  necessarily  follow,  that  the  same  proportions  of 
that  form  would,  in  all  cases,  be  beautiful,  and  that  all  other 
proportions  would  affect  us  with  sentiments  of  pain  or  of 
displeasure.     If  such  a  theory  were  maintained,  let  the 


154: 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


philosopher  state  with  accuracy  the  proportions  that  are  thus 
instinctively  beautiful.  Let  him  then  examine  whether 
this  doctrine  corresponds  with  the  most  obvious  facts  in  na- 
ture. The  various  ages  of  man  are  in  some  cases,  and  in  all 
cases  may  be  made  beautiful  by  the  genius  of  the  painter  or 
statuary.  Are  the  rules  of  proportion  applicable  to  all  these 
cases?  and  do  we  admire  the  form  of  the  child,  the  youth, 
the  man,  and  the  aged  man,  because  they  retain,  amid  all 
their  changes,  the  same  proportions  ?  Is  the  beauty  of  the 
female  form  demonstrable  only  because  it  contains  the  same 
proportions  with  that  of  man  ?  and  is  everything  that  deviates 
from  the  male  proportion  a  blemish  and  a  deviation  from 
beauty  in  the  female  ?  These  are  obvious  considerations. 
The  pursuit  of  them,  however,  will  lead  every  one  that  is 
capable  of  observation  to  still  more  satisfactory  conclusion. 
If  it  is  still  further  supposed,  in  aid  of  this  infant  theory, 
that  there  are  certain  proportions  in  sex,  and  in  the  various 
ages  of  human  life,  which  are  originally  beautiful,  it  will  not 
be  easily  supposed  or  maintained  that  there  are  similar  in- 
stincts correspondent  to  the  casual  occupations  of  mankind, 
and  that  in  every  age,  in  the  progress  of  society,  and  into 
every  society  which  civilized  man  is  formed,  new  or  acci- 
dental instincts  must  be  given,  by  which  alone  .he  can  per- 
ceive the  beauty  of  the  forms  around  him.  Yet  all  this  must 
be  supposed  before,  upon  these  principles,  it  is  possible  to 
account  for  the  sentiments  we  every  day  feel,  and  for  the 
illustrations  which  the  artist  every  day  gives  us,  with  regard 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


155 


to  the  beauty  of  proportion.  We  see  every  day  around  us 
some  forms  of  our  species  which  affect  us  with  sentiments  of 
beauty.  In  our  own  sex,  we  see  the  forms  of  the  legislator, 
the  man  of  rank,  the  general,  the  man  of  science,  the  private 
soldier,  the  sailor,  the  laborer,  the  beggar,  etc.  In  the  other 
sex  we  see  the  forms  of  the  matron,  the  widow,  the  young 
woman,  the  nurse,  the  domestic  servant,  etc.  Is  it  by  the 
principle  of  proportion  alone,  that  in  all  these  cases  our  sen- 
timent of  beauty  is  determined  ?  Are  the  proportions  the 
same  in  all  these  cases  ?  Is  not,  in  fact,  our  sentiment  of 
beauty  determined  by  the  difference  of  these  proportions ; 
and  would  not  the  application  of  the  same  principles  to  each, 
destroy  altogether  the  characteristic  beauty  which  we  expect 
and  look  for  in  such  different  cases  ?  It  is  obviously  the 
same  in  the  arts  of  imitation.  We  expect  different  propor- 
tions of  form  from  the  painter,  in  his  representation  of  a 
warrior  and  of  a  shepherd,  of  a  senator  and  of  a  peasant,  of 
a  wrestler  and  of  a  boatman,  of  a  savage  and  of  a  man  of 
cultivated  manners.  We  expect,  in  the  same  manner,  from 
the  statuary,  very  different  proportions  in  the  forms  of  Jove 
and  of  Apollo,  of  Hercules  and  of  Antinous,  of  a  Grace  and 
of  Andromache,  of  a  Bachanal  and  of  Minerva,  etc, 

The  same  attitude  of  gaiety  which  we  feel  as  beautiful 
in  the  young,  we  should  feel  as  disgraceful  in  the  mature. 
The  same  gesture  of  joy  which  we  should  approve  in  the 
thoughtful  and  the  old,  we  should  consider  as  tame  and  un- 
feeling in  the  young.    The  grief  of  a  young  woman  we  ex- 


156 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


pect  to  be  expressed  by  greater  violence  of  gesture  than  we 
should  approve  in  a  character  of  matron  firmness ;  and  the 
calm  and  subdued  gesture  of  matron  grief  would,  in  the 
same  manner,  be  painful  or  unsatisfactory  to  us  in  the  form 
of  the  former.  In  pursuing  this  observation,  it  will  be  found 
that  not  only  age,  but  profession,  occupation,  character  of 
form,  character  of  countenance,  and  a  thousand  other  cir- 
cumstances, determine  our  sentiments  of  the  beauty  of  atti- 
tude or  gesture,  by  determining  the  nature  of  the  expression 
we  expect  from  the  individual  we  contemplate  ;  and  that  the 
same  gesture  is  beautiful  or  otherwise,  precisely  as  it  ac- 
cords, or  does  not  accord  with  the  character  we  attribute  to 
the  form. 

The  severe  and  thoughtful  gravity  we  admire  in  the  atti- 
tude of  a  judge,  would  be  absurd  in  a  young  lawyer.  The 
step  of  dignity,  the  attitude  of  command  which,  we  love  in 
the  general  of  an  army,  would  be  ludicrous  in  a  subaltern 
officer,  etc.  The  same  gestures  or  attitudes  which  we  feel  as 
beautiful  or  sublime  in  tragic  imitation  upon  the  stage,  would 
be  ludicrous,  if  they  were  employed  even  in  the  higher 
comedy,  nor  would  they  even  be  permitted  by  good  taste  in 
the  inferior  and  less  interesting  characters  of  tragedy.  It  is 
unnecessary  to  say  that  the  most  approved  or  fascinating 
gestures  of  comedy  would  be  altogether  insufferable  if  they 
were  employed  in  tragic  representations.  I  shall  only  fur- 
ther request  my  readers  to  call  to  their  remembrance  the 
attitudes  and  gestures  which  they  have  so  often  admired  in 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


157 


classic  sculpture,  and  to  ask  themselves,  whether  the  same 
gestures,  etc.,  would  be  beautiful  in  all  characters  (as  would 
necessarily  be  the  case  if  beauty  in  this  respect  arose  from 
any  definite  conformations) ;  whether  the  gestures  of  the 
Apollo  would  be  beautiful  in  the  Hercules  or  in  the  Jupiter  ; 
or  the  attitudes  of  the  Venus  beautiful  in  the  forms  of  Juno 
or  Minerva?  Even  in  the  lowest  employment  of  the  art  of 
painting  (in  portrait  painting),  we  feel  the  necessity  of  this 
correspondence  of  attitude  to  character ;  and  we  blame  the 
painter  whenever  he  chooses  any  attitude  or  position  which 
appears  to  us  inconsistent  with  the  character  of  mind  which 
is  expressed  by  the  countenance.  In  feeling  and  in  express- 
ing, on  the  contrary,  this  correspondence,  in  selecting  the 
attitude  or  gesture  which  suits  best  with  the  character  he 
represents,  consists  one  of  the  chief  evidences  of  the  genius 
of  the  artist ;  and  by  this  means  the  portrait  of  an  obscure 
individual  may  sometimes  possess  the  value  of  an  original 
composition. 

The  conclusion,  therefore,  in  which  I  wish  to  rest  is,  that 
the  beauty  and  sublimity  which  is  felt  in  the  various  appearances 
of  matter,  are  finally  to^  be  ascribed  to  their  expression  of  mind ; 
or  to  their  being,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  the  signs  of  those 
qualities  of  mind  which  are  fitted,  by  the  constitution  of  our 
nature,  to  affect  us  with  pleasing  or  interesting  emotion. 

Archibald  Allison,  LL.  B.%  F.  E,  S.,  London. 


158 


ANCIENT 


AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


c<  The  best  physical  discipline  is  to  be  found  in  regular 
and  cheerful  exercises  in  the  open  air.  Those  sports  which 
are  often  termed  manly — but  are  not  less  womanly — as  riding, 
boating,  ball-playing,  and  brisk  walking,  are  the  best  means  of 
not  only  giving  strength  to  the  body,  but  enduing  it  with 
grace  of  form  and  motion. 

"  Such  is  the  intimate  relation  between  the  body  and  mind, 
that  it  is  impossible  to  do  any  good  to  either,  unless  the 
actions  of  both  are  kept  in  harmony.  This  truth  is  well 
demonstrated  by  the  utter  uselessness  of  all  physical  exercise 
for  health's  sake,  and,  we  may  say,  for  beauty's  sake  too, 
unless  accompanied  by  a  wholesome  mental  activity.  Let 
any  one,  while  depressed  in  mind,  test  his  muscular  power, 
and  he  will  soon  find  how  little  able  and  disposed  he  is  to 
use  it.  On  the  other  hand,  if  he  exerts  his  physical  strength 
when  under  animating  influence  of  pleasurable  emotions,  he 
is  scarcely  conscious  of  effort.  If  physical  exercise  is  per- 
sisted in  with  the  indisposition  and  incapacity  for  it  that 
come  from  mental  depression,  the  result  is  an  excessive  pros- 
tration, which  is,  of  course,  injurious  to  the  health  of  the 
body.  On  the  contrary,  the  exertion  of  the  muscular  force, 
stimulated  and  supported  by  a  cheerful  mind,  can  be  con- 
tinued almost  indefinitely,  with  the  good  effect  of  giving  in- 
creased vigor  to  the  whole  human  system." 

Book  of  Decorum. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


159 


DRESS  AND  FASHION 


LORD  CHESTERFIELD  TO  HIS  SON. — SENTENCES  AND  MAXIMS. 
REVISED  BY  C.  A.  SAINTE  BEUVE,  DE  l'ACADEMIE  FRAN- 
CAISE. 

Montesquieu,  after  the  publication  of"  L'Esprit  des  Lois," 
wrote  to  the  Abbe  de  Guasco,  who  was  then  in  England — 
"  Tell  my  Lord  Chesterfield  that  nothing  is  so  flattering  to 
me  as  his  approbation ;  but  that,  though  he  is  reading  my 
work  for  the  third  time,  he  will  only  be  in  a  better  position 
to  point  out  to  me  what  wants  correcting  and  rectifying  in 
it ;  nothing  could  be  more  instructive  to  me  than  his  obser- 
vations and  his  critique."  It  was  Chesterfield,  who,  speak- 
ing to  Montesquieu,  one  day,  of  the  readiness  of  the  French 
for  revolutions,  and  their  impatience  at  slow  reforms,  spoke 
this  sentence,  which  is  a  resume  of  our  whole  history  :  "  You 
French  know  how  to  make  barricades,  but  you  never  raise 
barriers." 

Chesterfield  had  already  said,  more  than  twenty  years  pre- 
viously, writing  to  the  younger  Crebillon,  a  singular  corres- 
pondent and  a  singular  confidant  in  point  of  morality, — Vol- 
taire was  under  consideration,  on  account  of  his  tragedy  of 


160 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


"  Mahomet "  and  the  daring  ideas  it  contained, — "  What  I  do 
not  pardon  him  for,  and  that  which  is  not  deserving  of  par- 
don in  him,"  wrote  Chesterfield  to  Crebillon,  "  is  his  desire  to 
propagate  a  doctrine  as  pernicious  to  domestic  society,  as  con- 
trary to  the  common  religion  of  all  countries.  I  strongly  doubt 
whether  it  is  permissible  for  a  man  to  write  against  the  wor- 
ship and  belief  of  his  country,  even  if  he  be  fully  persuaded 
of  its  error,  on  account  of  the  trouble  and  disorder  it  might 
cause ;  but  I  am  sure  that  it  is  in  no  wise  allowable  to  attack 
the  foundations  of  true  morality,  and  to  break  necessary 
bonds  which  are  already  too  weak  to  keep  men  in  the  path 
of  duty." 

And  it  is  precisely  this  sacred  fire,  this  lightning  that 
makes  the  Achilles,  the  Alexanders,  and  the  Caesars,  to  be 
the  first  in  every  undertaking,  this  motto  of  noble  hearts,  and 
of  eminent  men  of  all  kinds,  that  nature  had  primarily  neg- 
lected to  place  in  the  honest  but  thoroughly  mediocre  soul 
of  the  younger  Stanhope.  "  You  appear  to  want,"  said  his 
father,  "  that  vivida  vis  animi  which  excites  the  majority  of 
young  men  to  please,  to  strive,  and  to  out-do  others." 
"  When  I  was  your  age,"  he  says  again,  "  I  should  have 
been  ashamed  for  another  to  know  his  lesson  better,  or  to 
have  been  before  me  in  a  game,  and  I  should  have  had  no 
rest  till  I  had  regained  the  advantage." 

"  Human  nature  is  the  same  all  over  the  world  ;  but  its 
operations  are  so  varied  by  education  and  custom  that  we 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


161 


ought  to  see  it  in  all  its  aspects  to  get  an  intimate  knowledge 
of  it." 

"  Almost  all  men  are  born  with  every  passion,  to  some 
extent,  but  there  is  hardly  a  man  who  has  not  a  dominant 
passion  to  which  the  others  are  subordinate.  Discover  this 
governing  passion  in  every  individual ;  search  into  the  re- 
cesses of  his  heart,  and  observe  the  different  effects  of  the 
same  passion  in  different  people.  And  when  you  have  found 
the  master  passion  of  a  man,  remember  never  to  trust  to  him 
where  that  passion  is  concerned." 

11  If  you  wish  particularly  to  gain  the  good  graces  and  af- 
fection of  certain  people,  men  or  women,  try  to  discover  their 
most  striking  merit,  if  they  have  one,  and  their  dominant 
weakness, — for  every  one  has  his  own — then  do  justice  to 
the  one,  and  a  little  more  than  justice  to  the  other." 

He  warned  his  son  from  the  beginning  against  the  idea 

that  the  French  are  entirely  frivolous.  u  The  cold  inhabitants 

of  the  North  look  upon  the  French  as  a  frivolous  people 

who  sing,  and  whistle,  and  dance  perpetually;  this  is  very 

far  from  being  the  truth,  though  the  army  of  fops  seem  to 

justify  it.    But  these  fops,  ripened,  by  age  and  experience, 

often  turn  into  very  able  men."    The  ideal,  according  to 

him,  would  be  to  unite  the  merits  of  the  two  nations  ;  but 

in  this  mixture  he  still  seems  to  lean  towards  France.  "I 

have  said  many  times,  and  I  really  think,  that  a  Frenchman 

who  joins  to  a  good  foundation  of  virtue,  learning,  and  good 

sense,  the  manners  and  politeness  of  his  country,  has  attained 
11 


162 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


the  perfection  of  human  nature."  He  unites  sufficiently 
well  in  himself  the  advantages  of  the  two  nations,  with  one 
characteristic  which  belongs  exclusively  to  his  race — there  is 
imagination  even  in  his  wit.  Hamilton  himself  has  this  dis- 
tinctive characteristic,  and  introduces  it  into  French  wit. 
Bacon,  the  great  moralist,  is  almost  a  poet  by  expression. 
One  cannot  say  so  much  of  Lord  Chesterfield ;  nevertheless, 
he  has  more  imagination  in  his  sallies  and  in  the  expression 
of  his  wit  than  one  meets  with  in  Saint  Evremond  and  our 
acute  moralists  in  general.  He  resembles  his  friend  Montes- 
quieu in  this  respect. 

"  Enjoy  an  honorable  and  happy  old  age,  after  having  passed 
through  the  trials  of  life.  Enjoy  your  wit  and  preserve  the 
health  of  your  body.  Of  the  five  senses  with  which  we  are 
provided,  you  have  only  one  enfeebled,  and  Lord  Hunting- 
don assures  me  that  you  have  a  good  stomach,  which  is 
worth  a  pair  of  ears.  It  will  be  perhaps  my  place  to  decide 
which  is  the  most  sorrowful,  to  be  deaf  or  blind,  or  have  no 
digestion.  I  can  judge  of  all  these  three  conditions  with 
a  knowledge  of  the  cause ;  but  it  is  a  long  time  since  I 
ventured  to  decide  upon  trifles,  least  of  all  upon  things 
so  important.  I  confine  myself  to  the  belief  that,  if  you 
have  sun  in  the  beautiful  house  that  you  have  built,  you 
will  spend  some  tolerable  moments ;  that  is  all  we  can  hope 
for  at  our  age.  Cicero  wrote  a  beautiful  treatise  upon  old 
age,  but  he  did  not  verify  his  words  by  deeds ;  his  last  years 
were  very  unhappy.    You  have  lived  longer  and  more 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


163 


happily  than  he  did.  You  have  had  to  do  neither  with 
perpetual  dictators  nor  with  triumvirs.  Your  lot  has  been 
and  still  is,  one  of  the  most  desirable  in  that  great  lottery 
where  good  tickets  are  so  scarce,  and  where  the  great  prize 
of  continual  happiness  has  never  been  gained  by  any  one. 
Your  philosophy  has  never  been  upset  by  chimeras  which 
have  sometimes  perplexed  tolerably  good  brains.  You  have 
never  been  in  any  sense  a  charlatan,  nor  the  dupe  of  charla- 
tans, and  that  I  reckon  as  a  rare  merit,  which  adds  some- 
thing to  the  shadow  of  happiness  that  we  are  allowed 
to  taste  of  in  this  short  life." 

The  Art  of  Speaking. — "You  cannot  but  be  convinced, 
that  a  man  who  speaks  and  writes  with  elegance  and  grace, 
who  makes  choice  of  good  words,  and  adorns  and  em- 
bellishes the  subject  upon  which  he  either  speaks  or  writes, 
will  persuade  better,  and  succeed  more  easily  in  obtaining 
what  he  wishes,  than  a  man  who  does  not  explain  himself 
clearly,  speaks  his  language  ill,  or  makes  use  of  low 
and  vulgar  expressions,  and  who  has  neither  grace  nor 
elegance  in  anything  that  he  says.  Now  it  is  by  rhet- 
oric that  the  art  of  speaking  eloquently  is  taught ;  and, 
though  I  cannot  think  of  grounding  you  in  it  as  yet, 
I  would  wish,  however,  to  give  you  an  idea  of  it  suitable  to 
your  age." 

Keep  Your  Word. — "  I  am  sure  you  know  that  breaking  of 
your  word  is  a  folly,  a  dishonor,  and  a  crime.  It  is  a  folly, 
because  nobody  will  trust  you  afterwards  'r  and  it  is  both  a 


164  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 

dishonor  and  a  crime,  truth  being  the  first  duty  of  religion 
and  morality ;  and  whoever  has  not  truth  cannot  be 
supposed  to  have  any  one  good  quality,  and  must  be- 
come the  detestation  of  Grod  and  man.  Therefore  I  expect 
from  your  truth  and  your  honor,  that  you  will  do  that 
which,  independently  of  our  promise,  your  own  interest 
and  ambition  ought  to  incline  you  to  do  ;  that  is,  to  excel  in 
everything  you  undertake. 

Inattention. — "There  is  no  surer  sign  in  the  world,  of 
a  little,  weak  mind,  than  inattention.  Whatever 'is  worth 
doing  at  all  is  worth  doing  well ;  and  nothing  can  be 
done  well  without  attention.  It  is  the  sure  answer  of  a  fool 
when  you  ask  him  about  anything  that  was  said  or 
done,  where  he  was  present,  that  '  truly  he  did  not  mind 
it.'  And  why  did  not  the  fool  mind  it?  What  had 
he  else  to  do  there,  but  to  mind  what  was  doing  ?  A 
man  of  sense  sees,  hears,  and  retains  everything  that 
passes  where  he  is.  I  desire  I  may  never  hear  you  talk  of 
not  minding,  nor  complain,  as  most  fools  do,  of  a  treacher- 
ous memory.  Mind  not  only  what  people  say,  but  how 
they  say  it  ;  and,  if  you  have  any  sagacity,  you  may 
discover  more  truth  by  your  eyes  than  your  ears.  People 
can  say  what  they  will,  but  they  cannot  look  what  they 
will,  and  their  looks  frequently  discover  what  their 
words  are  calculated  to  conceal.  The  most  material  knowl- 
edge of  all — I  mean  the  knowledge  of  the  world — is  not  to 
be  acquired  without  great  attention. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


165 


"  TJie  Well- Bred  Man  feels  himself  firm  and  easy  in  all 
companies;  is  modest  without  being  bashful,  and  steady 
without  being  impudent ;  if  he  is  a  stranger,  he  observes, 
with  care,  the  manners  and  ways  of  the  people  the  most  es- 
teemed at  that  place,  and  conforms  to  them  with  complai- 
sance. Instead  of  finding  fault  with  the  customs  of  that 
place,  and  telling  the  people  that  the  English  ones  are  a 
thousand  times  better  (as  my  countrymen  are  very  apt  to 
do)  he  commends  their  table,  their  dress,  their  houses,  and 
their  manners,  a  little  more,  it  may  be,  than  he  really  thinks 
they  deserve.  But  this  degree  of  complaisance  is  neither 
criminal  nor  abject,  and  is  but  a  small  price  to  pay  for  the 
good  will  and  affection  of  the  people  you  converse  with.  As 
the  generality  of  people  are  weak  enough  to  be  pleased  with 
these  little  things,  those  who  refuse  to  please  them,  so 
cheaply,  are,  in  my  mind,  weaker  than  they. 

Insults  and  Injuries. — "  However  frivolous  a  company  may 
be,  still,  while  you  are  among  them,  do  not  show  them,  by 
your  inattention,  that  you  think  them  so ;  but  rather  take  their 
tone,  and  conform  in  some  degree  to  their  weakness,  instead 
of  manifesting  your  contempt  for  them.  There  is  nothing 
that  people  bear  more  impatiently,  or  forgive  less,  than  con- 
tempt; and  an  injury  is  much  sooner  forgotten  than  an, 
insult. 

Lying. — "  I  really  know  nothing  more  criminal,  more 
mean,  and  more  ridiculous,  than  lying.  It  is  the  production 
either  of  malice,  cowardice,  or  vanity  ;  and  generally  misses. 


166 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


of  its  aim  in  every  one  of  these  views ;  for  lies  are  always 
detected,  sooner  or  later. 

"  If  I  tell  a  malicious  lie,  in  order  to  affect  any  man's  for- 
tune or  character,  I  may  indeed  injure  him  for  some  time ; 
but  I  shall  be  sure  to  be  the  greatest  sufferer  myself  at  last ; 
for  as  soon  as  ever  I  am  detected  (and  detected  I  most  cer- 
tainly shall  be),  I  am  blasted  for  the  infamous  attempt ;  and 
whatever  is  said  afterwards,  to  the  disadvantage  of  that  per- 
son, however  true,  passes  for  calumny.  If  I  lie  or  equivo- 
cate, for  it  is  the  same  thing,  in  order  to  excuse  myself  for 
something  that  I  have  said  or  done,  and  to  avoid  the  dan- 
ger or  shame  that  I  apprehend  from  it,  I  discover  at  once 
my  fear,  as  well  as  my  falsehood,  and  only  increase,  instead 
of  avoiding  the  danger  and  the  shame ;  I  show  myself  to  be 
the  lowest  and  meanest  of  mankind,  and  am  sure  to  be  al- 
ways treated  as  such.  Fear,  instead  of  avoiding,  invites  dan- 
ger ;  for  concealed  cowards  will  insult  known  ones.  If  one 
has  had  the  misfortune  to  be  in  the  wrong,  there  is  something 
noble  in  frankly  owning  it ;  it  is  the  only  way  of  atoning  for 
it,  and  the  only  way  of  being  forgiven.  Equivocating,  evad- 
ing, shuffling,  in  order  to  remove  a  present  danger  or  incon- 
venience, is  something  so  mean,  and  betrays  so  much  fear? 
.that  whoever  practises  them,  always  deserves  to  be,  and 
often  will  be  kicked.  There  is  another  sort  of  lies,  inoffen- 
:sive  enough  in  themselves,  but  wonderfully  ridiculous ;  I  mean 
those  lies  which  a  mistaken  vanity  suggests — that  defeat  the 
very  end  for  which  they  are  calculated,  and  terminate  in  the 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


167 


humiliation  and  confusion  of  their  author,  who  is  sure  to  be 
detected.  These  are  chiefly  narratives  and  historical  lies,  all 
intended  to  do  infinite  honor  to  their  author.  He  is  always 
the  hero  of  his  own  romances ;  he  has  been  in  dangers  from 
which  nobody  but  himself  ever  escaped ;  he  has  seen  with 
his  own  eyes  whatever  other  people  have  heard  or  read  of ; 
he  has  had  more  bonnes  fortunes  than  ever  he  knew  wo- 
men ;  and  has  ridden  more  miles  post,  in  one  day,  than  ever 
courier  went  in  two.  He  is  soon  discovered  and  as  soon  be- 
comes the  object  of  universal  contempt  and  ridicule. 

"  Kemember,  then,  as  long  as  you  live,  that  nothing  but 
strict  truth  can  carry  you  through  the  world,  with  either 
your  conscience  or  your  honor  unwounded.  It  is  not  only 
your  duty,  but  your  interest ;  as  a  proof  of  which,  you  may 
always  observe,  that  the  greatest  fools  are  the  greatest  liars. 
For  my  own  part,  I  judge  of  every  man's  truth  by  his  de- 
gree of  understanding. 

Action!  Action! — "  Eemember  the  adage  :  do  what  you 
are  about,  be  that  what  it  will ;  it  is  either  worth  doing  well 
or  not  at  all.  Whoever  you  are,  have  (as  the  low,  vulgar 
expression  is)  your  ears  and  your  eyes  about  you.  Listen 
to  everything  that  is  said,  and  see  everything  that  is  done. 
Observe  the  looks  and  countenances  of  those  who  "speak, 
which  is  often  a  surer  way  of  discovering  the  truth  than 
from  what  they  say." 

Vulgar  Scoffers. — 11  Eeligion  is  one  of  their  favorite  topics; 
it  is  all  priestcraft,  and  an  invention  contrived  and  carried 


168 


ANCIENT  AND  MODEKN  FASHION. 


on  by  priests,  of  all  religions,  for  their  own  power  and 
profit.  From  this  absurd  and  false  principle  flow  the  com- 
moDpkce  insipid  jokes  and  insults  upon  the  clergy. 

"  With  these  peojue,  every  priest  of  every  religion  is  either 
a  public  or  a  concealed  unbeliever,  drunkard,  and  whore- 
master,  whereas  I  conceive  that  priests  are  extremely  like 
other  men,  and  neither  the  better  nor  the  worse  for  wearing 
a  gown  or  a  surplice ;  but  if  they  are  different  from  other 
people,  probably  it  is  rather  on  the  side  of  religion  and  mo- 
rality, or  at  least  decency,  from  their  education  and  manner 
of  life. 

Advantage  of  Mariners. — "  Manners,  though  the  last,  audit 
may  be  the  least  ingredient  of  real  merit,  are,  however,  very 
far  from  being  useless  in  its  composition.  They  adorn  and 
give  an  additional  force  and  lustre  to  both  virtue  and  knowl- 
edge. They  prepare  and  smooth  the  way  for  the  progress 
of  both,  and  are,  I  fear,  with  the  bulk  of  mankind,  more  en- 
gaging than  either. 

"  Kemember,  then,  the  infinite  advantage  of  manners  ; 
cultivate  and  improve  your  own  to  the  utmost :  good  sense 
will  suggest  the  great  rules  to  you,  good  company  will  do 
the  rest." 

How  to  be  Considerable. — "  Upon  the  whole,  if  you  have  a 
mind  to  be  considerable,  and  to  shine  hereafter,  you  must 
labor  hard  now.  No  quickness  of  parts,  no  vivacity,  will  do 
long  or  go  far,  without  a  solid  fund  of  knowledge ;  and  that 
fund  of  knowledge  will  amply  repay  all  the  pains  that  you 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


169 


can  take  in  acquiring  it.  Keflect  seriously,  within  yourself, 
upon  all  this,  and  ask  yourself  whether  I  can  have  any 
view  but  your  interest  in  all  that  I  recommend  to  you. 

No  one  Contemptible. — "  Be  convinced  that  there  are  no 
persons  so  insignificant  and  inconsiderable,  but  may  some 
time  or  other,  and  in  some  thing  or  other,  have  it  in  their 
power  to  be  of  use  to  you  ;  which  they  certainly  will  not,  if 
you  have  once  shown  them  contempt. 

Woman. — "As  women  are  a  considerable,  or  at  least  a 
pretty  numerous  part  of  company,  and  as  their  suffrages  go 
a  great  way  towards  establishing  a  man's  character,  in  the 
fashionable  part  of  the  world  (which  is  of  great  importance 
to  the  fortune  and  figure  he  proposes  to  make  in  it),  it  is 
necessary  to  please  them.  I  will,  therefore,  upon  this  sub- 
ject, let  you  into  certain  arcana  that  will  be  very  useful  for 
you  to  know,  but  which  you  must,  with  the  utmost  care, 
conceal  and  never  seem  to  know.  Women,  then,  are  only 
children  of  a  larger  growth  ;  they  have  an  entertaining  tattle 
and  sometimes  wit,  but  for  solid,  reasoning  good  sense,  I 
never  in  my  life  knew  one  that  had  it,  or  who  reasoned  or 
acted  consequentially  for  four  and  twenty  hours  together. 

"  Some  little  passion  or  humor  always  breaks  in  upon 
their  best  resolutions.  Their  beauty  neglected  or  contro- 
verted, their  age  increased,  or  their  supposed  understanding 
depreciated,  instantly  kindles  their  little  passions,  and  over- 
turns any  system  of  consequential  conduct,  that  in  their 
most  reasonable  moments  they  might  have  been  capable  of 


170 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


forming.  A  man  of  sense  only  trifles  with  them,  plays  with 
them,  humors  and  flatters  them,  as  he  does  with  a  sprightly, 
forward  child  ;  but  he  neither  consults  them  about,  nor  trusts 
them  with  serious  matters ;  though  he  often  makes  them  be- 
lieve that  he  does  both,  which  is  the  thing  in  the  world  that 
they  are  proud  of,  for  they  love  mightily  to  be  dabbling  in 
business  (which,  by  the  way,  they  always  spoil) ;  and  being 
justly  distrustful  that  men  in  general  look  upon  them  in  a 
trifling  light,  they  almost  adore  that  man  who  talks  more 
seriously  to  them,  and  who  seems  to  consult  and  trust  them. 
I  say,  who  seems — for  weak  men  really  do,  but  wise  ones 
only  seem  to  do  it.  No  flattery  is  either  too  high  or  too  low 
for  them.  They  will  greedily  swallow  the  highest,  and 
gratefully  accept  the  lowest,  and  you  may  safely  flatter 
any  woman,  from  her  understanding  down  to  the  exquisite 
taste  of  her  fan.  Women  who  are  indisputably  beautiful  or 
indisputably  ugly,  are  best  flattered  upon  the  score  of  their 
understandings  ;  but  those  who  are  in  a  state  of  mediocrity 
are  best  flattered  upon  their  beauty,  or  at  least  their  graces, 
for  every  woman  who  is  not  absolutely  ugly  thinks  herself 
handsome,  but,  not  hearing  often  that  she  is  so,  is  the  more 
grateful  and  the  more  obliged  to  the  few  who  tell  her  so  ; 
whereas  a  decided  and  conscious  beauty  looks  upon  the 
tribute  paid  to  her  beauty  only  as  her  due,  but  wants  to 
shine  and  to  be  considered  on  the  side  of  her  understanding ; 
and  a  woman  who  is  ugly  enough  to  know  that  she  is  so 
knows  that  she  has  got  nothing  left  for  it  but  her  under- 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


171 


standing,  which  is  consequently  (and  probably  in  more  senses 
than  one)  her  weak  side.  But  these  are  secrets  which  you 
must  keep  inviolably,  if  you  would  not,  like  Orpheus,  be 
torn  to  pieces  by  the  whole  sex.  On  the  contrary,  a  man 
who  thinks  of  living  in  the  great  world  must  be  gallant,  po- 
lite and  attentive  to  please  the  women.  They  have,  from  the 
weakness  of  men,  more  or  less  influence  in  all  courts  ;  they 
absolutely  stamp  every  man's  character  in  the  beau  monde, 
and  make  it  either  current  or  cry  it  down,  and  stop  it  in 
payments.  It  is,  therefore,  absolutely  necessary  to  manage, 
please  and  flatter  them ;  and  never  to  discover  the  least  mark 
of  contempt,  which  is  what  they  never  forgive  ;  but  in  this 
they  are  not  singular,  for  it  is  the  same  with  men,  who  will 
much  sooner  forgive  an  injustice  than  an  insult. 

Affectation. — 1  'Any  affectation  whatsoever,  in  dress,  implies, 
in  my  mind,  a  flaw  in  the  understanding.  Most  of  our  young 
fellows,  here,  display  some  character  or  other  by  their  dress ; 
some  affect  the  tremendous,  and  wear  a  great  and  fiercely 
cocked  hat,  an  enormous  sword,  a  short  waistcoat  and  a  black 
cravat.  These  I  should  be  almost  tempted  to  swear  the  peace 
against,  in  my  own  defence,  if  I  were  not  convinced  that  they 
are  but  meek  asses  in  lions'  skins.  Others  go  in  brown 
frocks,  leather  breeches,  great  oaken  cudgels  in  their  hands, 
their  hats  uncocked,  their  hair  unpowdered ;  and  imitate 
grooms,  stage-coachmen  and  country  bumpkins  so  well  in 
their  outsides,  that  I  do  not  make  the  least  doubt  of  their  re- 
sembling them  equally  in  their  insides.    A  man  of  sense 


172 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


carefully  avoids  any  particular  character  in  his  dress ; 
he  is  accurately  clean  for  his  own  sake,  but  all  the  rest  is  for 
the  other  people's.  He  dresses  as  well,  and  in  the  same 
manner,  as  the  people  of  sense  and  fashion  of  the  pkce 
where  he  is.  If  he  dresses  better,  as  he  thinks,  that  is,  more 
than  they,  he  is  a  fop ;  but  if  he  dresses  worse,  he  is  unpar- 
donably  negligent ;  but  of  the  two,  I  would  rather  have  a 
young  fellow  too  much  than  too  little  dressed ;  the  excess  on 
that  side  will  wear  off,  with  a  little  age  and  reflection  ;  but  if 
he  is  negligent  at  twenty,  he  will  be  a  sloven  at  forty,  and 
stink  at  fifty  years  old.  Dress  yourself  fine,  where  others 
are  fine,  and  plain  where  others  are  plain,  but  take  care  al- 
ways that  your  clothes  are  well  made  and  fit  you,  for  otherwise 
they  will  give  you  a  very  awkward  air.  When  you  are  once 
well  dressed,  for  the  day,  think  no  more  of  it  afterwards ; 
and,  without  any  stiffness  for  fear  of  discomposing  that  dress, 
let  all  your  motions  be  as  easy  and  natural  as  if  you  had  no 
clothes  on  at  all.  So  much  for  dress,  which  I  maintain  to  be 
a  thing  of  consequence  in  the  polite  world. 

Temper. — "  The  principal  of  these  things,  is  the  mastery 
of  one's  temper,  and  that  coolness  of  mind  and  serenity  of 
countenance  which  hinder  us  from  discovering,  by  words, 
actions,  or  even  looks,  those  passions  or  sentiments  by  which 
we  are  inwardly  moved  or  agitated ;  and  the  discovery  of 
which  gives  cooler  and  abler  people  such  infinite  advantages 
over  us,  not  only  in  great  business,  but  in  all  the  most  com- 
mon occurrences  of  life.    A  man  who  does  not  possess  him- 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


173 


self  enough  to  hear  disagreeable  things,  without  visible  marks 
of  anger  and  change  of  countenance,  or  agreeable  ones  with- 
out sudden  bursts  of  joy  and  expansion  of  countenance,  is  at 
the  mercy  of  every  artful  knave,  or  pert  coxcomb  ;  the  for- 
mer will  provoke  or  please  you  by  design,  to  catch  unguarded 
words  or  looks,  by  which  he  will  easily  decipher  the  secrets 
of  your  heart,  of  which  you  should  keep  the  key  yourself 
and  trust  it  with  no  man  living. 

A  Fathers  Object. — "  Dear  boy,  from  the  time  that  you 
have  bad  life,  it  has  been  the  principal  and  favorite  object 
of  mine,  to  make  you  as  perfect  as  the  imperfections  of  hu- 
man nature  will  allow.  In  this  view,  I  have  grudged  no  pains 
nor  expense  in  your  education,  convinced  that  education, 
more  than  nature,  is  the  cause  of  that  great  difference  which 
we  see  in  the  characters  of  men.  While  you  were  a  child, 
I  endeavored  to  form  your  heart  habitually  to  virtue  and 
honor,  before  your  understanding  was  capable  of  showing 
you  their  beauty  and  utility.  Those  principles,  which  you 
then  got  like  your  grammar  rules  only  by  rote,  are  now,  I 
am  pursuaded,  fixed  and  confirmed  by  reason,  and  indeed 
they  are  so  plain  and  clear,  that  they  require  but  a  very 
moderate  degree  of  understanding,  either  to  comprehend  or 
practice  them.  Lord  Shaftesbury  says,  very  prettily,  that  he 
would  be  virtuous  for  his  own  sake,  though  nobody  were  to 
know  it,  as  he  would  be  clean  for  his  own  sake,  though  no- 
body were  to  see  him.  I  have  therefore,  since  you  have  had 
the  use  of  your  reason,  never  written  to  you  upon  those  sub- 


174 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


jects.  They  speak  best  for  themselves ;  and  I  should,  now, 
just  as  soon  think  of  warning  you  gravely  not  to  fall  into  the 
dirt  or  the  fire,  as  into  dishonor  or  vice. 

Learning  and  Politeness. — l<  I  have  often  asserted,  that 
the  profoundest  learning  and  the  politest  manners  were  by 
no  means  incompatible,  though  so  seldom  found  united 
in  the  same  person,  and  I  have  engaged  myself  to 
exhibit  you  as  a  proof  of  the  truth  of  this  assertion. 
Should  you,  instead  of  that,  happen  to  disprove  me,  the 
concern  indeed  will  be  mine,  but  the  loss  will  be  yours. 
Lord  Bolingbroke  is  a  strong  instance  on  my  side  of 
the  question ;  he  joins,  to  the  deepest  erudition,  the 
most  elegant  politeness  and  good-breeding  that  ever  any 
courtier  and  man  of  the  world  was  adorned  with.  And 
Pope  very  justly  called  him  all-accomplished  St.  John,  with 
regard  to  his  knowledge  and  his  manners.  He  had,  it 
is  true,  his  faults,  which  proceeded  from  unbounded 
ambition  and  impetuous  passions  ;  but  they  have  now 
subsided  by  age  and  experience ;  and  I  can  wish  you 
nothing  better  than  to  be  what  he  is  now,  without  being 
what  he  has  been  formerly.  His  address  pre-engages, 
his  eloquence  persuades,  and  his  knowledge  informs  all 
who  approach  him.  Upon  the  whole,  I  do  desire  and 
insist  that  from  after  dinner  till  you  go  to  bed,  you 
make  good-breeding,  address,  and  manners  your  serious  ob- 
ject and  your  only  care.  Without  them,  you  will  be 
nobody  ;  with  them,  you  may  be  anything. 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


175 


Hampden  a  Lesson. — "  Lord  Clarendon,  in  his  history,  says 
of  Mr.  John  Hampden,  that  he  had  a  head  to  contrive, 
a  tongue  to  persuade,  and  a  hand  to  execute,  any  mischief. 
I  shall  not  now  enter  into  the  justness  of  this  charac- 
ter of  Mr.  Hampden,  to  whose  brave  stand  against  the 
illegal  demand  of  ship-money  we  owe  our  present  liberties, 
but  I  mention  it  to  you  as  the  character,  which,  with  the  al- 
teration of  one  single  word,  good,  instead  of  mischief, 
I  would  have  you  aspire  to  and  use  your  utmost  endeavors 
to  deserve.  The  head  to, contrive,  God  must  to  a  certain 
degree  have  given  you  ;  but  it  is  in  your  own  power  greatly 
to  improve  it,  by  study,  observation  and  reflection.  As  for 
the  tongue  to  pursuade,  it  wholly  depends  upon  your- 
self ;  and  without  it  the  best  head  will  contrive  to  very  little 
purpose.  The  hand  to  execute  depends  likewise,  in  my 
opinion,  in  a  great  measure  upon  yourself.  Serious  reflec- 
tion will  always  give  courage  in  a  good  cause ;  and  the 
courage  arising  from  reflection  is  of  a  much  superior  nature 
to  the  animal  and  constitutional  courage  of  a  foot  sol- 
dier. The  former  is  steady  and  unshaken,  where  the 
nodus  is  dignus  vindice  ;  the  latter  is  oftener  improperly  than 
properly  exerted,  but  always  brutally." 

Moral  Character. — u  Your  moral  character  must  be  not  only 
pure,  but,  like  Caesar's  wife,  unsuspected.  The  least  speck 
or  blemish  upon  it  is  fatal.  Nothing  degrades  and  vilifies 
more,  for  it  excites  and  unites  detestation  and  contempt. 
There  are,  however,  wretches  in  the  world  profligate  enough 


176 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


to  explode  all  notions  of  moral  good  and  evil ;  to  maintain 
that  they  are  merely  local,  and  depend  entirely  upon 
the  customs  and  fashions  of  different  countries  :  nay, 
there  are  still,  if  possible,  more  unaccountable  wretches ; 
I  mean,  those  who  affect  to  preach  and  propagate  such 
absurd  and  infamous  notions  without  believing  them  them- 
selves. These  are  the  devil's  hypocrites.  Avoid  as  much 
as  possible  the  company  of  such,  people,  who  reflect  a 
degree  of  discredit  and  infamy  upon  all  who  converse  with 
them.  But  as  you  may  sometimes,  by  accident,  fail 
into  such,  company,  take  great  care  that  no  complaisance,  no 
good  humor,  no  warmth  of  festal  mirth,  ever  make 
you  seem  even  to  acquiesce,  much  less  to  approve  or 
applaud,  such  infamous  doctrines.  On  the  other  hand, 
do  not  debate  nor  enter  into  serious  argument  upon  a 
subject  so  much  below  it,  but  content  yourself  with  telling 
these  apostles,  that  you  know  they  are  not  serious ;  that  you 
have  a  much  better  opinion  of  them  than  they  would 
have  you  have ;  and  that,  you  are  very  sure,  they  would  not 
practice  the  doctrine  they  preach.  But  put  your  private 
mark  upon  them,  and  shun  them  for  ever  afterwards." 

Necessary  Accomplishments. — "I  here  subjoin  a  list  of 
all  those  necessary,  ornamental  accomplishments  (without 
which  no  man  living  can  either  please  or  rise  in  the  world) 
which  hitherto  I  fear  you  want,  and  which  only  require 
your  care  and  attention  to  possess. 

"To  speak  elegantly  whatever  language  you  speak  in; 


ANCIENT  AND  MODEEN  FASHION. 


177 


without  which  nobody  will  hear  you  with  pleasure,  and, 
consequently,  you  will  speak  to  very  little  purpose. 

"An  agreeable  and  distinct  elocution  ;  without  which  no- 
body will  hear  you  with  patience ;  this  everybody  may 
acquire,  who  is  not  born  with  some  imperfection  in 
the  organs  of  speech.  You  are  not;  and  therefore  it  is 
wholly  in  your  power.  You  need  take  much  less  pains  for 
it  than  Demosthenes  did. 

u  A  distinguished  politeness  of  manners  and  address  ; 
which  common  sense,  observation,  good  company,  and 
imitation,  will  infallibly  give  you,  if  you  will  accept  of  it. 

"  A  genteel  carriage,  and  graceful  motions,  with  the  air  of  a 
man  of  fashion.  A  good  dancing-master,  with  some  care  on 
your  part,  and  some  imitation  of  those  who  excel,  will  soon 
bring  this  about. 

"  To  be  extremely  clean  in  your  person,  and  perfectly  well 
dressed,  according  to  the  fashion,  be  that  what  it  will. 
Your  negligence  of  dress,  while  you  were  a  schoolboy, 
was  pardonable,  but  would  not  be  so  now. 

"  Upon  the  whole,  take  it  for  granted,  that,  without'  these 
accomplishments,  all  you  know,  and  all  you  can  do, 
will  avail  you  very  little.  Adieu. 

Aim  High. — "  Aim  at  perfection  in  everything,  though  in 

most  things  it  is  unattainable ;  however,  they  who  aim  at  it, 

and  persevere,  will   come  much   nearer    it  than  those 

whose  laziness  and  despondency  make  them  give  it  up 

as  unattainable.    Magnis  tamen  excidit  ausis  is  a  degree 
12 


178 


ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FASHION. 


of  praise  which  will  always  attend  a  noble  and  shining  te- 
merity, and  a  much  better  sign  in  a  young  fellow,  than 
serpere  humi  tutus  nimium  timidusque  procellce,  for  men 
as  well  as  women." 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


179 


THE  EMIGRANT— THE  ADOPTED   CITIZEN  OF 
THE  UNITED  STATES,  &c. 


"Good  heav'n,  what  sorrows  gloom'd  that  parting  day, 
That  call'd  them  from  their  native  walks  away, 
When  the  poor  exiles  ev'ry  pleasure  part, 
Hang  round  the  bowers  and  wish'd  in  vain 
For  like  these  beyond  the  western  mnin, 
And  shuddering  still  to  face  the  distant  deep, 
Returned  and  wept,  and  still  returned  to  weep." 

— Goldsmith's  Deserted  Village. 

'*  Take  heed  what  you  say,  sir!  an  hundred  honest  men?  Why  if  there 
were  so  many  in  the  city,  'twere  enough  to  forfeit  their  city  charter." 

— Shirley's  Gamester. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  previous  chapter  in  this  book  that 
requires  more  study,  and  which  is  more  difficult  to  define, 
than  the  one  that  heads  this  article.  In  the  first  place,  the 
newly -arrived  emigrant  in  the  United  States,  as  a  general 
thing,  is  dissatisfied  with  the  country  he  has  left.  The 
hardships  of  the  voyage  across  the  ocean,  even  in  the  most 
favorable  time  of  the  year,  sorely  tries  the  temper  and  dispo- 
sition of  the  cabin  passenger,  and,  in  a  tenfold  degree,  the 
steerage  voyager,  as  the  worst  of  all  berths  aboard-ship  is  of 
course  the  steerage.  The  dissatisfaction  of  the  emigrant  is 
heightened  beyond  comparison  at  the  unfeeling,  and  often- 


180  THE  EMIGrKANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 

times  cruel  usage  that  "  the  old  country  "  (greenhorn)  passen- 
ger has  to  endure,  at  the  hands  of  the  lower  classes  of  the  bad 
portion  of  the  sovereign  people  of  this  Eepublic.  Instead 
of  giving  a  kindly  greeting  and  welcome  to  the  newly -landed 
stranger,  his  person  and  effects  are  looked  upon  as  so  much 
lawful  plunder,  and  by  the  time  he  runs  the  gauntlet  of  the 
baggage  smasher,  bummers,  thieves,  dock  runners,  black- 
legs, gamblers,  the  emigrant  boarding-house  keepers,  the 
swindling  ticket  agents,  and  bogus  employment  and  ex- 
change offices,  and  countless  other  harpies,  who  systemati- 
cally defraud  the  luckless  stranger,  the  greenhorn  emi- 
grant frequently  finds  himself,  very  shortly  after  landing, 
worse  than  nothing ;  jaded  in  spirits,  fleeced  of  all  money 
and  worldly  goods,  thereby  becoming  a  low,  degraded  pau- 
per. The  emigrant  passes  through  this  unhappy  state  of  ex- 
istence while  living,  or  when  dead  is  buried  in  some  Potter's 
Field,  unwept,  unknown  and  uncared  for.  If  the  emigrant 
escapes  these  hardships  and  wishes  to  make  this  country  his  fu- 
ture home,  he  must  carefully  avoid  the  land  pirates  (generally 
his  own  countrymen)  as  he  would  a  deadly  pestilence.  No 
matter  how  shrewd  or  courageous  he  was  in  the  old  country, 
he  must  get  away  with  all  speed  from  these  infamous  land- 
sharks.  He  will  find  oftentimes,  when  it  is  too  late,  that  he 
has  been  victimized  out  of  his  last  piece  of  money,  by  the 
specious  pretences  of  the  confidence  and  other  swindling 
games  of  some  scoundrels  in  disguise,  who  pass  themselves 
off  as  the  American  friends  to  the  emigrant.    The  latter 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN.  181 

miscreants  are  more  to  be  dreaded  than  some  unseen  sunken 
rock,  or  the  coast- wrecker,  who  holds  out  false  signals  or 
beacon  lights  to  the  storm-tossed  mariner,  in  order  that  they 
may  glut  their  desire  for  plunder  when  the  vessel  is  wrecked. 

The  politician  and  fourth  of  July  stump  orators,  when 
they  wish  to  flatter  the  adopted  citizen  and  obtain  his  vote, 
assert  that  every  emigrant  that  lands  in  America  is  a  gain 
of  $1,000  to  the  country  of  his  adoption,  even  if  he  has  not 
a  cent  in  his  pocket.  If  this  assertion  be  true,  the  Ameri- 
cans have  a  strange  and  very  extravagant  way  of  using  and 
taking  care  of  the  emigrant,  who  lands  on  the  American 
shore;  for  the  vital  statistics  too  plainly  show  the  sickness 
and  burial  of  tens  of  thousands  of  emigrants,  mainly  brought 
about  by  the  brutal  and  unfeeling  ill-usage  on  land  and  sea. 
It  is  therefore  to  be  sincerely  hoped  that  the  Northern  people 
who  waged  the  most  destructive  civil  war  on  record,  desolat- 
ing the  sunny  South  to  emancipate  the  black  race,  will  with 
equal  firmness  make  some  laudable  effort  to  save  the  lives 
and  scanty  property  of  the  unfortunate  emigrant  white  race, 
on  the  principles  of  impartial  justice  and  equality  before  the 
law,  u  in  the  land  of  the  free  and  the  home  of  the  brave." 
This  is  no  exaggerated  statement,  but,  on  the  contrary,  is  of 
a  worse  description  than  here  described.  Such  scenes  can 
be  witnessed  daily  at  any  of  the  emigrant  seaport  landings 
of  this  Union.  It  is  much,  to  be  deplored  that  up  to  the 
present  time,  no  effective  remedy  appears  to  exist  in  sum- 
marily punishing  the  unconvicted  criminals,  who  thrive 


182  THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


and  prosper  in  setting  all  law,  human  and  divine,  at  defi- 
ance, by  robbing  and  cheating  the  defenceless  emigrant,  in- 
cluding the  widow  and  orphans.  Notwithstanding  it  is  uni- 
versally acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  most  serious  stig- 
mas that  disgrace  this  great  country.  Is  it  to  be  wondered 
that  the  effete  aristocracy  points  the  finger  of  scorn  at  the 
young  and  old  democracy  of  the  New  World?  How  long 
this  lamentable  state  of  affairs  will  continue  it  is  hard  to 
state,  from  the  fact  that  for  many  years  past,  our  local  and 
national  legislators  have  been  principally  engaged  in  fram- 
ing questionable  laws  to  elevate  the  African  race  on  the 
one  hand,  and  levy  tax  upon  tax,  and  pile  obnoxious  tariff 
upon  tariff,  on  the  principle  of  how  much  can  we  personally 
make,  because  the  so-called  sovereign  people  have  no  rights 
which  we  are  bound  to  respect.  "What  do  we  care,  so  long 
as  we  can  enjoy  a  good  fat  office,  and  the  emoluments  there- 
of, for  the  suffering,  laboring  classes,  the  high  cost  of  living, 
the  stagnation  of  commerce,  the  annihilation  of  American- 
built  shipping,  an  irredeemable  paper  currency,  huge  na- 
tional debt,  the  neglected  laws  that  ought  to  protect  the 
public,  and  swiftly  punish  defaulting  government  officials, 
and  others  who  unblushingly  defraud  the  government  to  the 
extent  of  untold  millions  of  dollars?"  The  majority  of  our 
present  law-makers  will  answer  all  these  allegations  by  their 
acts,  but  not  expressed  in  words :  What  do  we  care  as  long 
as  the  people  are  our  subservient  tools,  who  vote  for  us  and 
allow  us  to  enjoy  office?  How  often  do  we  hear  the  Ameri- 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN.  183 

can  of  the  patriotic  class,  to  the  manor  born,  exclaim,  that 
the  teachings  of  George  Washington  aHid  the  early  revolu- 
tionary Fathers  appear  to  be  of  no  account  nowadays. 
The  adopted  citizen  of  many  years  adds  his  voice  in  unison 
with  the  pure  American  sentiment — "Give  me  the  country 
as  I  found  it,  not  as  it  is."  It  being  now  the  most  oppres- 
sively taxed  country  in  the  world ;  articles  of  luxury  bear 
the  smallest  amount  of  tax,  while  indispensable  products  in 
daily  consumption  by  the  hard-working  community  bear,  be- 
yond all  odds,  the  larger  share,  in  accordance  with  dishon- 
orable legislation,  favoring  the  rich  at  the  expense  of  the 
poor.  The  unprincipled  law-maker,  who  will  sell  his  coun- 
try for  his  country's  gold,  impliedly  answers  by  his  acts : 
What  do  we  care  about  the  sovereign  people's  rights  so  long 
as  we  can  retain  office,  with  its  emoluments  ? 

"  Why  should  the  sacred  character  of  virtue 
Shine  on  a  villain's  countenance?    Ye  powers  ! 
Why  fixed  you  not  a  brand  on  treason's  front, 
That  we  might  know  t'  avoid  perfidious  monsters?" — Dennis. 

This  dissertation  may  appear  to  the  reader  to  be  wander- 
ing from  the  title  of  this  chapter.  We  say  no,  for,  to  use  a 
vulgar  phrase,  it  is  simply  letting  the  cat  out  of  the  bag  by 
relating  unpalatable  truths,  however  unpleasant  to  the  wily 
politician  of  an  unscrupulous  order,  or,  what  may  be  better 
understood,  radically  striking  at  the  root  of  evil  that  aims  to 
cut  out  some  of  the  many  ulcers  that  grievously  afflict  the 
body  politic  of  this  magnificent  yet  shamefully  misused 


184:  THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 

country.  The  more  enlightened  emigrant  will  at  once  per- 
ceive that  the  latter  portion  of  this  chapter  is  not  a  divul- 
gence  from  its  title,  but,  on  the  contrary,  important  informa- 
tion for  him  by  which  to  govern  his  course,  if  he  intends  to 
remain  an  adopted  citizen  of  this  country.  Fortunately  for 
the  Americans,  to  the  manor  born,  and  their  fellow-citizens  by 
adoption,  all  the  ills  herein  alluded  to  are  of  a  transitory 
character,  that  can  be  remedied  to  a  more  or  less  degree  by 
the  unanimous  uprising  of  the  people,  and  doing  their  duty 
with  the  ballot  in  lieu  of  using  the  bullet.  It  is  said  the 
darkest  hour  is  the  one  before  the  dawn.*  It  is  hard  work 
to  bring  daylight  out  of  the  darkness  which  appears  to  over- 
spread this  land,  where  exists  so  much  corruption  and 
fraud.  In  very  truth,  if  ever  sacred  history  repeats  itself, 
the  comparison,  in  the  author's  opinion,  holds  good  where 
oxir  blessed  Saviour  whipped  the  thieves  and  money-chan- 
gers out  of  the  Temple.  A  similar  remedy  of  a  more 
extended  description  is  absolutely  needed  in  this  country, 
by  banishing  some  of  the  well-known  plunderers  of  the 
people's  treasure. 

We  join  our  voice  in  unison  with  that  of  an  adopted 
citizen  soldier  who  fought  many  a  hard  contested  battle  in 
the  Union  army,  and  say,  "  Let  us  have  peace — and  less 
taxes." 

*  N.  B.  Form  a  new  Political  Honest  Party,  to  be  known  and  called 
the  "  Cosmopolitan  Party." 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN".  185 


It  is  a  very  common  mistake  for  the  newly-arrived  emi- 
grant to  suppose  that  this  is  a  land  flowing  with  milk  and 
honey,  and  that  he  will  have  little  or  no  exertion  to  obtain 
the  same.  This  is  a  delusion,  for  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  he 
will  have  to  work  harder  in  this  country  than  in  the  one  he 
left.  Another  egregious  mistake  is  apt  to  be  made,  that  the 
manners,  customs  and  dress  of  the  country  he  has  left  are 
superior  in  pattern  to  those  of  his  new  acquaintances  here. 
The  sooner  he  obliterates  these  ideas  the  better.  u  When  in 
Eome  do  as  Kome  does,"  is  a  good  maxim  to  observe,  so 
far  as  changing  his  personal  attire  to  the  fashion  of  the 
Americans. 

A  stupid  error  is  frequently  made  by  the  new-comer,  in 
hanging  around,  spending  his  time  and  money  in  large 
cities  that  do  not  want  his  presence,  while  the  more  sparsely 
populated  parts  of  the  Union  are  always  in  want  of  the  ser- 
vices of  the  industrious  emigrant,  and  probably  at  a  higher 
reward  than  he  could  obtain  in  the  country  he  left,  or  the 
over-crowded  American  cities. 

The  Commissioners  of  Emigration  and  the  Commissioners 
of  Charity  and  Correction,  are  twin  Institutions,  established 
for  the  benefit  of  the  emigrant  and  the  poor,  but  in  reality  so 
distorted  and  mismanaged  that  they  are  nothing  more  nor 
less  than  so  many  monopolizing  political  machines.  The 
proper  care  of  the  poor  emigrant,  sick  and  insane,  is  quite  a 
secondary  consideration  with  them,  and  has  become  a  very 
convenient  hypocritical  cloak,  like  many  other  public  insti- 


186 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


tutions,  especially  situated  in  the  cities  of  New  York, 
Albany,  and  the  National  Capitol,  Washington,  D.  C. 

The  mismanagement  of  the  public  institutions  referred  to, 
too  unaptly  are  in  fact  the  direct  cause  which  compel 
the  emigrant  and  poor  to  subsist  as  "at  the  Emigration, 
Ward's  Island,"  on  the  lowest  description  of  rations,  and 
which  has  debarred  them  under  pretended  economy.  To 
such  an  extent  of  tyranny  has  this  become,  that  miserable 
humanity  frequently  arises  in  revolt 11  against  the  powers  that 
be."  The  aristocratic  nabob  commissioners,  under  the 
feigned  name  of  benefactors  of  the  poor,  quickly  put  down, 
with  the  aid  of  the  Metropolitan  police  force,  the  outbreak, 
punishing  the  mutineers  for  their  audacity  in  demanding  the 
just  enforcement  of  laws  and  the  proper  expenditure  of  the 
people's  money.  A  portion  of  these  assertions  can  be  sub- 
stantiated by  visiting  and  examining  the  internal  working 
and  system  of  the  Castle  Garden  Emigrant  Depot,  the  Office 
of  Outdoor  Belief,  Third  Avenue  ;  Bellevue  Hospital,  Black- 
well's  Island  Penitentiary,  Lunatic  Asylum,  &c,  Ward's,  Ban- 
dall's  and  Hart's  Islands,  and  various  institutions  of  charity 
and  correction.  These  being  a  few  of  the  many  public  insti- 
tutions where  the  people's  money  is  so  lavishly  misapplied 
in  paying  large  salaries  and  sub  rosa  contracts,  &c. 

It  is  commonly  remarked  by  distinguished  foreigners, 
citizens,  and  others  who  have  been  invited  and  accepted  the 
princely  hospitalities  of  the  city  fathers,  that  the  above  in- 
stitutions are  evidently  established  for  the  benefit,  profit  and 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN.  187 


luxurious  ease  of  the  said  commissioners  and  their  political 
partisans. 

The  emigrant,  pauper,  and  others,  who  have  occasion  to 
traverse  this  great  continent,  will  find  to  their  sorrow  that 
many  of  the  guardians  of  the  poor  are  like  the  rich  man  of 
old  (as  described  in  Scripture),  and  that  the  supplicant  for 
relief,  like  Lazarus,  will  only  receive  the  crumbs  that  fall 
from  the  rich  man's  table ;  therefore  let  them  not  believe 
that  they  will  meet  many  true  friends.  The  conclusion  will 
evidently  be  forced  upon  them  that  their  best  friend  is 
money,  aided  by  their  working  brains  and  toiling  hands, 
being  the  natural  gifts  from  God  to  the  rich  and  poor  alike. 

The  reader  of  the  preceding  pages,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
will  infer  that  the  denunciatory  remarks  of  corruption  and 
fraud  practised  in  high  places,  tyrannical  oppression,  and 
especially  in  the  collection  of  taxes  and  the  management  of 
various  institutions  of  a  public  character,  are  all  of  a  quali- 
fied form,  andean  be  easily  abated  by  the  voice  and  votes  of 
the  people — the  whole  country  being  ripe  for  a  change  in 
the  administration  of  public  affairs,  the  basis  of  the  change 
to  be  fair  dealing  between  man  and  man,  in  view  of  the 
corruption  practised  and  unblushingly  advocated  by  a  few 
dare-devil  spirits  (not  forgetting  gold-gamblers,  railroad  and 
fraudulent  stock  speculators)  who  overawe  and  circumvent 
their  better-meaning  and  more  honest  associates.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  this  change  will  soon  transpire  for  the  sake  of 
millions  of  people  who  now  inhabit,  and  millions  more  who 


188  THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 

would  flock  in  increased  numbers  to  this  country,  and  gladly 
become  citizens  in  upholding  the  flag  and  the  glorious  insti- 
tutions of  our  common  country.  When  the  emigrant  has 
adopted  the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  Americans,  and  has 
concluded  to  make  this  Union  his  permanent  home,  carefully 
preparing  his  plans  accordingly,  he  will  find  plenty  of  room 
for  skill  and  energy  in  all  the  legitimate  walks  of  life,  pro- 
vided he  maintains  the  dignified  character  of  being  a  steady, 
sober,  law-abiding  citizen.  The  native  Americans  are  not 
unlike  the  aborigines,  for  neither  race  place  a  very  high 
value  on  land  as  compared  with  the  Europeans.  It  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at,  considering  the  almost  unlimited  expanse  of 
this  vast  continent.  One  of  the  most  popular  rules  in  this 
country  is  u  When  you  are  sure  you  are  right  go  ahead ; 
never  give  up  the  ship  ;"  try  until  you  succeed  in  selecting 
the  most  suitable  and  profitable  occupation,  and  remember 
(rod  assists  those  who  assist  themselves.  An  enterprising 
adopted  citizen  willingly  devotes  his  attention  and  money 
to  the  purchase  of  real  estate.  Singular  to  relate,  that  when 
he  once  secures  a  settlement  in  his  new  home,  he  frequently 
astonishes  the  American  natives  at  his  marvellous  success, 
and  is  looked  upon  by  his  admiring  fellow-citizens  as  a 
wonderfully  smart  fellow,  or,  as  the  Irish  jestingly  say,  "  Now 
that  I  have  got  a  pig  and  a  cow,  everybody  says  good-mor- 
row." The  adopted  citizen  ,who  probably  never  owned  an 
inch  of  land  in  the  old  country,  finds  himself,  after  reason- 
able exertion,  in  the  possession  of  fixed  property,  say,  a 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN.  189 


house  and  lot,  a  farm,  a  mammoth  store,  or  broad  acres, 

comprising  a  lordly  domain  in  the  New  World. 

"  Freedom  of  the  press ;  freedom  of  person  and  protection  of  habeas 
corpus,  and  trial  by  juries  impartially  selected." — Jefferson. 

Liberty  !  Charity  I  Correction  !  Oh  !  what  numerous 
crimes  and  humbugs  are  committed  in  thy  name.  Our 
English  cousins,  and  others  of  the  Caucasian  race,  will 
perhaps  be  a  little  surprised  to  learn  that  in  the  City 
and  State  of  New  York  there  are  two  separate  and  distinct 
forms  of  laws,  one  that  upholds  the  principles  of  the  consti- 
tution, combined  with  the  freedom,  justice,  and  protec- 
tion conferred  by  Magna  Charta;  the  more  modern  law, 
surreptitiously  enacted,  abolishes  the  fundamental  principles 
of  both  those  laws,  the  latter  so  revered  by  the  English, 
who  are,  if  possible,  outrivalled  by  the  law-abiding 
classes  of  the  Americans  who  love  and  revere  both  those 
famed  laws. 

Notwithstanding  "to  make  odious  laws  more  odious," 
is  to  enforce  them,  it  is  further  asserted  that  the  war  is  over, 
yet  Unlawful  arbitrary  arrests  still  continue.  In  proof,  any 
contemptible  scoundrel  and  evil-disposed  villain  can,  in 
company  with  another  of  equal  turpitude  and  atrociousness, 
go  before  various  presiding  magistrates  and  make  complaint 
under  sworn  affidavits,  and  ask  for  a  committal  warrant 
to  arrest  his  innocent  victim,  under  the  pretence  that  he 
is  an  habitual,  confirmed  drunkard ;  on  the  mere  fact  of 
an  ipse  dixit  of  the  complainant,  the  law-abiding  citizen 


190  THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


is  forcibly  arrested,  deprived  of  the  possession  of  his  liberty 
and  property,  and  incarcerated  in  one  of  the  Inebriate 
asylums  of  the  State,  there  to  remain  at  the  pleasure  of  his 
unprincipled  persecutors,  in  order  that  they  may,  in 
many  instances  during  his  absence,  despoil  him  more  or  less 
of  his  worldly  goods,  &c.  The  prisoner,  a  victim  of  false 
imprisonment  by  means  of  false  oaths,  is  not  examined 
under  these  circumstances,  by  any  committing  magistrate, 
nor  does  he  receive  the  common  privileges  accorded  to 
the  greatest  criminal,  or  the  one  that  is  guilty  of  the 
smallest  crime. 

All  these  high-handed  outrages  are,  we  may  say,  perpetra- 
ted and  abetted  under  the  jurisdiction  and  knowledge  of 
the  Commissioners  of  Charity  and  Correction ;  while 
the  generality  of  the  people  suppose  they  are  administering 
impartial  justice  and  Christian  charity  to  their  unfortunate 
fellow-mortals !  To  such  an  extent  has  this  villainous 
tyranny  become  that  oftentimes  all  communications  are 
rigidly  excluded  from  the  prisoner,  thereby  preventing  him 
from  the  assistance  of  friends,  or  the  advice  of  counsel 
whose  duty  it  is  to  cause  a  writ  of  habeas  corpus  to  be 
served  upon  said  Commissioners  to  bring  their  prisoner 
before  a  just  magistrate  for  examination — a  proceeding 
attended  with  considerable  expense  and  loss  of  time  to 
the  falsely  imprisoned,  which  frequently  terminates  in  sick- 
ness and  death  of  the  unfortunate  prisoner.  "  Facts  are  stub- 
born things/'  and  it  behooves  the  enlightened  community  to 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


191 


rigidly  investigate  and,  if  possible,  do  away  with  these 
untold  villainies.  The  same  maltreatment  the  alleged 
inebriate  receives  under  a  false  oath,  and  the  obtaining  of  a 
committal  warrant,  is  also  applicable  to  the  sane  and  insane 
who  are  unceremoniously  sent  to  any  of  the  Insane 
Asylums  that  the  interested  persecutors  may  desire.  In 
immuring  the  sane  with  the  insane  on  the  principles  of  the 
letters  di  cachet,  in  any  of  these  modern  Bastiles,  according  to 
the  form  of  arbitrary  laws,  it  is  necessary  that  the  certificate 
be  signed  by  two  honorable  or  unprincipled  physicians,  as 
the  case  maybe,  by  the  interested  complainants,  to  suit  their 
nefarious  ends,  by  the  absence  and  restraint  of  the 
kidnapped  individual.  Such  are  some  of  the  expedients 
that  are  unfortunately  resorted  to  as  law  in  this  free  and  en- 
lightened country. 

It  is  alleged  that  fashion  is  like  a  great  tyrant 
who  governs  all.  We  therefore  take  the  liberty  ot 
reproducing  an  early  quotation  of  this  work  :  "  Wher- 
ever we  go,  whatever  we  do,  whatever  we  are, 
Fashion  holds  the  wand  of  power  over  us,  more 
blandly,  but  not  less  imperiously  than  the  sceptre  of  empire 
was  swayed  by  the  Caesars."  If  this  quotation  is  correct 
in  principle,  the  author,  viz.,  "Cosmopolitan  the  Fikst," 
claims  the  prerogative  to  introduce  any  subject  within 
his  grasp  and  to  delineate  it  by  the  power  of  the  pen, 
aided  by  his  professional  sceptre-  the  shears,  in  cutting 
out  passages  from  sacred,  profane,  and  modern  history. 


192  THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 

It  will  be  observed  from  the  dissertation  just  given  upon 
the  Emigrant,  that,  philosophically  speaking,  are  we  all 
in  this  migratory  world  emigrants.  What  has  been  the 
foundation  of  any  nation  or  communities  of  people,  but 
emigrants?  It  is  therefore  of  the  highest  importance 
in  the  advancement  and  well-being  of  all  nations  that  the 
emigrant  should  be  hospitably  received  and  taken  care  of 
according  to  his  usefulness  and  deserts,  and  not,  as  is  the 
common  usage,  treated  with  cold  indifference  on  his  arrival 
in  this  country.  Instead  of  trying  to  make  him  a  useful 
member  of  society,  he  is  more  frequently  treated  as  if 
he  were  a  criminal.  The  emigrant  has  hardly  recovered 
from  the  mortifications  and  sorrows  that  previously  sur- 
rounded his  path,  when  another  pang,  more  severe  than  all 
previous  ones,  stabs  his  very  heart — especially  if  he  is 
the  parent  of  a  young  family.  He  will  wonder,  with  more 
than  ordinary  amazement,  how  quickly  his  children  have  re- 
ceived the  poison,  and  followed  the  pernicious  example  and 
unfilial  manner  with  which  insolent  portions  of  "  Young 
America  "  too  often  treat  their  parents.  In  the  composition 
of  this  work,  the  reader  will  always  understand  commen- 
dable exceptions  offer  a  bright  example  to  the  civilized 
world,  how  the  junior  American  loves,  reveres,  and  delights 
in  obeying  the  lawful  commands  of  his  parents.  It  is  a 
singular  fact,  and  probably,  when  more  minutely  studied  by 
the  emigrant,  who  has  been  brought  up  in  the  land  of  his 
birth  to  rigidly  obey  and  revere  his  parents,  the  reverse  is 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


193 


too  often  the  case  in  this  great  Republic,  whose  fundamental 
doctrine  is  that  "all  men  are  born  free  and  equal, a  senti- 
ment that  is  very  laudable  and  noble  in  inspiration,  but,  un- 
fortunately for  the  good  intentions  of  the  founders  of 
this  republican  system,  it  is  one  of  the  rocks  upon  which 
rising  generations  too  frequently  split.  Their  love  of  inde- 
pendence is  so  abused  that  it  unknowingly  descends  into  the 
vilest  impudence  and  ingratitude.  It  is  therefore  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that  he  is  the  first  to  hear  the  hiss  of  the 
serpent, 

"How  sharper  than  a  serpent's  tooth  it  is 
To  have  a  thankless  child  !" 

— King  Lear. 

or  feel  the  scorpion's  sting  from  the  child,  to  its  parent. 
"Shame!  oh  shame  !  where  is  thy  blush ?"  To  the  refined 
mind  and  sensitive  heart,  what  can  be  more  distressing  in 
attempting  to  realize  the  countless  evils  that  this  destructive 
cancer  brings  ?  It  too  frequently  reverses  and  undermines 
the  natural  affections  and  benign  principles  of  our  natuie; 
the  disrespectful  and  undutiful  conduct  that  many  ignorant 
children,  especially  in  this  country,  show  their  parents,  of- 
tentimes accompanied  with  the  most  unnatural,  hard-hearted 
treatment,  instead  of  being  the  natural  support  and  protec- 
tors of  their  parents,  they  are  often  the  first  to  do  them  a 
wrong,  deride,  and  insolently  scoff  at  their  kind  advice  and 
lawful  authority. 

"  Train  np  a  child  in  the  way  he  should  go,  and  when  he  is  old  he  will 
not  depart  from  it." — Puov.  22 :  6. 

13 


194 


THE  EMIGRANT — THE  ADOPTED  CITIZEN. 


It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  so  long  as  the  prevailing  prac- 
tice sanctions  ignorant  young  America  to  disregard  with  in- 
difference and  contempt  the  teachings  of  their  seniors,  as 
being  old  fogy  ideas,  and  unworthy  of  their  notice  and 
respect. 

In  support  of  the  latter  remarks,  the  writer  quotes  from  a 
modern  American  author  :  * 

"The  great  reason  of  the  failure  of  a  broad,  glowing 
friendship  between  parents  and  children — a  failure  so  de- 
plorable in  our  homes — is  the  lack  in  their  characters  of 
of  that  wealth,  nobleness,  sweetness,  patience,  aspirations, 
which  would  irresistibly  draw  them  to  each  other  in  natural 
honor,  love,  and  joj^.  The  only  remedy  for  this  unhappy 
failure  is  the  cure  of  its  unhappier  cause.  Whatever  makes 
characters  deep,  rich,  pure,  and  gentle  in  themselves,  tends 
to  make  them  pleasing  to  each  other.  It  is  absurd  to  sup- 
pose that  many  hateful  and  miserable  sxils  will  love  each 
other  simply  because  they  are  connected  by  ties  of  consan- 
guinity, of  interest  or  duty.  Whatever  makes  us  suffer, 
especially  whatever  injures  our  finer  emotions — even  a 
mother,  a  son,  a  father,  a  daughter,  may  become  such  an 
object,  as  is  illustrated  with  melancholy  frequency.  But 
when  parents  and  children  possess  those  higher  qualities  of 
soul,  which  naturally  give  pleasure,  create  affection,  and 
evoke  homage ;  and  when  they  are  not  separated,  or  too 


*  William  Rounsville  Alger. 


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195 


much  distracted  in  alien  pursuits,  a  firm  and  ardent  friend- 
ship must  spring  up  between  them.    *    *    *  * 

"To  honor  one's  parents  is  the  first  Scriptural  command- 
ment with  promise.  It  is  a  habit  which  no  one  will  ever  re- 
gret. But,  alas !  how  many  a  man,  how  many  a  woman, 
has  knelt  on  the  grave  where  father  or  mother  lay  moulder- 
ing, and  has  lamented,  with  burning  tears  of  shame  and  sor- 
row, the  disobedience,  disrespect,  unkindness,  and  neglect 
shown  in  earlier  years.  How  have  they  longed  to  lift  up 
the  faded  forms  from  their  coffins,  to  reanimate  them,  and  to 
have  them  again  in  their  homes,  that,  by  unwearied  minis- 
trations of  tenderness,  they  might  atone  for  the  upbraiding 
past. 

"  '  Mother !  thou  art  mother  still, 

Only  the  hody  dies  ; 
Such  love  as  bound  thy  heart  to  me, 

Death  only  purifies.'  " 


CORRESPONDENCE, 
TRIBUTES  FROM  THE  LIVI 

AND 

MEMENTOES  FROM  THE  DEPARTED. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Copied   Verbatim  from,  tire   Original  ^.ntograplr.s 

IN  THE  POSSESSION  OF 

G-EORGrE!      IP.  FOX. 


Letters  from  the  late  DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

A st or  House,  May  28, 1852. 

Dear  Sir  : 

If  my  K'haban  is  done,  I  should  be  glad  it  might  be  sent  to  me  this 
morning,  as  I  need  it  for  travelling,  this  warm  weather. 
I  leave  the  city  at  1  o'clock  to-day. 

Yrs.  respectfully, 

DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq. 


Boston,  May  22, 1852. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York  : 

Bear  Sir, — I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  21st  inst.,  in  relation  to 
my  summer  paletot.  I  shall  be  in  New  York  in  the  course  of  next  week, 
and  will  call  as  you  suggest  at  your  establishment,  if  I  feel  able,  but  I 
would  prefer  that  you  should  send  it  to  the  Astor  House  on  Tuesday 
forenoon. 

Yours,  truly, 

DANIEL  WEBSTER 


200 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Washington,  April  30,  1852. 

Dear  Sih: 

The  suit  of  clothes  you  were  so  kind  as  to  send  me,  fitted  admirably 
well.  They  are  exceedingly  handsomely  made,  of  fine  material,  aud  are 
really  elegant — too  elegant,  T  fear,  for  me.  The  K'hahan  is  a  very  nice 
article,  and  I  like  it  much.  I  wish  you  to  furnish  me  one  of  lighter  mate- 
rial, and  lighter  color,  and  sleeves  not  so  deep,  for  spring  and  summer 
use.  I  expect  to  be  at  the  Astor  House  on  Monday,  and  shall  pass  the 
afternoon  there,  and  should  be  glad  if  you  would  send  me  a  few  patterns, 
gray,  drab,  or  some  other  color,  from  which  I  can  make  a  selection. 
Yours,  truly, 

DANIEL  WEBSTER. 
George  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  Merchant  Tailor,  New  York. 

Washington,  June  8, 1853. 

George.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York  ■ 

Dear  Sir, — I  have  received  the  K'haban,  which  you  sent  me  a  few  days 
ago,  and  am  much  pleased  with  it.  It  is  the  most  comfortable  and  easy- 
fitting  summer  garment  that  I  have  ever  worn. 

I  am,  Sir,  your 

Obed't.  Serv't., 

DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

Letters  from  G.  J.  ABBOT,  Esq.,  the  Private  Secretary  to  the 
late  Honorable  DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

Washington,  D.  C,  Nov.  28,  1852. 

Dear  Sir: 

In  reply  to  your  note  received  a  few  days  since,  I  have  to  inform  you 
that  Mr.  Webster  was  interred  in  his  best  blue  coat,  being  the  one  which 
he  had  received  from  your  establishment,  as  I  understood,  a  short  time 
previous  to  his  death. 

Yours,  very  respectfully, 

G.  J.  ABBOT. 

George  P,  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


201 


Washington,  Bee.  3,  1852. 

Erastus  Brooks,  Esq.: 

My  Dear  Sir, — I  enclose  a  letter  to  Mr.  Fox,  which  I  hope  is  satisfac- 
tory. 

When  Mr.  Webster  was  writing-  his  Historical  Address,  he  received 
from  Mr.  Fox  his  card,  handsomely  engraved,  on  which  was  the  figure  of 
a  fox  running,  and  the  motto  ''  faire  sans  dire."  I  was  struck  with  the 
appearance  of  the  card,  and  placed  it  in  a  conspicuous  situation,  so  that  it 
should  attract  Mr.  Webster's  attention.  He  was  dictating  to  me  one  of 
his  most  carefully  prepared  passages,  that  on  the  37th  page.  He  was 
walking  backwards  and  forwards,  and  had  got  as  far  as  the  words  "  leng 
foresight,"  when  he  paused  to  consider  how  to  complete  the  sentence. 
At  that  moment  his  eye  fell  on  Mr.  Fox's  card.  He  took  it  up,  looked  at- 
tentively at  it,  and  then  added,  in  a  loud  tone,  what  follows  on  that  page 
down  to  "  dire,"  bursting  at  the  same  time  into  a  loud,  ringing  laugh,  re- 
marked, "  Thank  Mr.  Fox  for  that  idea."  When  he  received  his  K'haban, 
after  trying  it  on  and  admiring  its  easy  and  genteel  fit,  I  asked  1dm  if  I 
should  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  it.  He  said  he  would  dictate  the  letter 
himself.  I  gave  the  pen  to  an  attendant,  and  he  dictated  the  three  lines 
which  afterwards  appeared  in  Mr.  Fox's  advertisement  This  letter  after- 
wards became  famous  again  by  an  article  in  the  Boston  Courier  of  Octo- 
ber 18th  or  20th,  as  the  identical  Blatckford  Letter,  to  which  I  hope  you 
will  call  Mr.  Fox's  attention. 

Yours,  truly, 

G.  J.  ABBOT. 

Erastcs  Brooks,  Esq.,  Editor  New  York  Express. 


Washington,  Jane  28,  1854. 

G.  P.  Fox,  Esq.: 

Dear  Sir, — I  enclose  herewith  a  private  note  to  our  consul,  Mr.  Saun- 
ders, bespeaking  for  you  his  kindly  services. 

Yours,  truly, 

G.  J.  ABBOT. 


202 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Extract  from  Mr.  WEBSTER'S  Address  before  the  New  York 
Historical  Society. 

The  following  most  eloquent  extract  is  the  one  in  which  Mr.  Webster 
in  his  celebrated  address  before  the  N.  Y.  Historical  Society,  Feb.  23d, 
1852,  introduced  Mr.  Fox's  motto  as  above  related  : 

"  Let  this  day  ever  be  remembered.  It  saw  assembled  from  the  several 
colonies,  those  great  men  whose  names  have  come  down  to  us  and  will 
descend  to  all  posterity. 

"  Their  proceedings  are  remarkable  for  simplicity,  dignity,  and  un- 
equaled  ability.  At  that  day,  probably,  there  could  have  been  convened 
on  no  part  of  this  globe  an  equal  number  of  men,  possessing  greater 
talents  and  ability,  or  animated  by  a  higher  or  more  patriotic  motive. 
They  were  men,  full  of  the  spirit  of  the  occasion,  imbued  deeply  with  the 
general  sentiment  of  the  country,  of  large  comprehension,  of  long  fore- 
sight, and  of  few  words.  They  made  no  speeches  for  ostentation,  they 
sat  with  closed  doors,  and  their  great  maxim  was  'faire  sans  dire.' 

"  It  is  true,  they  only  wrote ;  but  the  issuing  of  such  writings,  on  such 
authority,  and  at  such  a  crisis,  was  action, — high,  decisive,  national  ac- 
tion. They  knew  the  history  of  the  past ;  they  were  alive  to  all  the  diffi- 
culties and  all  the  duties  of  the  present,  and  they  acted  from  the  first,  as 
if  the  future  were  all  open  before  them.  Peyton  Randolph  was  unani- 
mously chosen  President,  and  Charles  Thompson  was  appointed  Secretary. 
In  such  a  constellation,  it  would  be  invidious  to  point  out  the  bright  par- 
ticular stars.  Let  me  only  say,  what  none  can  consider  injustice  to  others, 
that  George  Washington  was  one  of  the  number." 


The  Dress  in  which  WEBSTER  was  Entombed. 
Daniel  Webster,  like  some  other  gifted  men  that  have  brightened  the 
age-  they  have  lived  in,  was  great  in  everything.     He  respected  the 
opinions  and  the  customs  of  his  country  and  of  his  time,  in  all  points  that 
merited  his  observation.    But  he  would  never  change  materially  his  style 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


203 


of  dress  while  lie  lived,  nor  would  he  allow  it  to  be  done  after  he  was 
dead.  He  left  special  directions  to  have  his  body  after  decease  clothed  in 
the  garments  he  used  to  wear  in  the  Senate  of  the  United  States;  and 
those  who  bent  over  his  coffin  recognized  that  mighty  form,  robed  in  the 
same  vest  and  the  same  blue  dress  coat,  with  the  velvet  collar  and  gold- 
wove  cloth  buttons,  that  he  had  last  worn  when  he  sat  at  the  head  of  his 
own  table,  and  was  diffusing  joy  and  beneficence  around  the  glad  circle 
gathered  there  to  enjoy  his  hospitality.  Nearly  all  the  celebrated  tailors 
of  the  country  sought  the  privilege,  at  some  period  of  his  life,  of  making 
for  him  something  to  wear ;  but  no  one  seems  to  have  suited  his  taste  so 
perfectly  as  Mr.  George  P.  Fox ;  for  not  long  before  he  died,  Mr.  Webster 
had  ordered  from  him  this  same  chaste,  but  richly  made  blue  dress  coat, 
and  it  was  his  desire  that  he  might  wear  it  to  his  tomb.  Mr.  Fox  has  re- 
ceived many  compliments  for  the  matchless  skill  he  displays  in  his  art — 
and  he  has  studied  it  as  an  art,  like  an  artist;  but  the  highest  honor  that 
has  ever  been  paid  to  his  genius  as  a  costumer,  was  paid  by  the  great  de- 
parted statesman  of  Marshfield. — New  York  paper. 

Deposition  of  GEORGE  P.  FOX,  taken  before  Mayor  TIEMANN, 
of  the  City  of  New  York. 

City  and  County  of  New  York,  ss. 

George  P.  Fox,  being  duly  sworn,  deposes  and  says,  that  the  piece  of 
cloth  hereto  annexed  is  part  of  the  same  piece  from  which  deponent  made 
a  blue  dress  coat  to  order  for  the  late  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  on  the  25th 
February,  1852  ;  and  deponent  has  been  informed  by  letter,  by  G.  J.  Abbot, 
Esq.,  the  Private  Secretary  of  Mr.  Webster,  that  the  said  coat  was  worn 
by  Mr.  Webster  in  his  lifetime,  together  with  a  buff  vest  and  black  cassi- 
mere  pantaloons,  and  in  accordance  with  the  request  of  Mr.  Webster  on 
his  death-bed,  he  was  buried  in  the  said  suit  of  clothes  of  deponent's  manu- 
facture as  above  set  forth. 

Sworn  to  before  me,  this  ) 
12th  day  of  August,  1859.  \ 

DANIEL  F.  TIEMANN,  Mayor. 


204 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Letters   from   MILLARD   FILLMORE,   Ex-President    of  the 
United  States. 

Washington,  July  3,  1851. 

Sir: 

On  my  return  from  a  short  trip  to  Virginia,  I  liad  the  pleasure  to  receive 
your  favor  of  the  17th  June,  together  with  a  fine  specimen  of  black  cassi- 
mere,  which  you  have  kindly  presented  for  my  acceptance,  and  for  which 
I  beg  to  return  my  acknowledgments. 

I  should  be  very  happy  to  avail  myself  of  your  kind  offer  to  make  me  a 
pair  of  pantaloons,  but  the  truth  is,  I  have  found  it  more  difficult  to  pro- 
cure a  perfectly  fitting  pair  of  pantaloons  than  any  other  garment,  and  on 
that  account  I  have  no  pair  which  I  should  be  willing  to  send  on  as  a 
pattern.  My  son,  to  whom  I  have  shown  your  letter,  desires  me  to  say 
that  his  stays,  when  passing  through  New  York,  have  generally  been  very 
short,  but  he  hopes  at  some  time  to  give  you  a  call. 

Yours  truly, 

MILLARD  FILLMORE. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York. 


Washington,  July  15, 1851. 

Sir: 

I  am  this  morning  in  receipt  of  your  favor  of  the  12th  inst.,  and  shall 
be  pleased  to  comply  with  your  request  to  retain  the  cassimere  I  received 
from  you,  until  your  next  visit  to  Washington,  that  you  may  be  enabled 
to  make  it  up. 

Very  truly  yours, 

MILLARD  FILLMORE. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


205 


Washington,  Feb.  4, 1853. 
George  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  Merchant  Tailor,  New  York  : 

Sir,— As  it  is  possible  that  I  may  go  South  instead  of  North,  at  the  close 
of  my  administration,  I  should  be  pleased  to  receive  the  suit  of  clothes 
which  you  are  to  make  for  me,  at  your  earliest  convenience,  that  any 
defect  may  be  remedied  before  I  leave  this  city. 

Respectfully  yours, 

MILLARD  FILLMORE. 

Washington,  Feb.  8,  1853. 

Mr.  Geo.  P.  Fox,  New  York: 

Sir, — Your  letter  of  the  5th  came  to  hand  this  morning,  and  in  reply  to 
your  suggestion  I  would  say,  that  I  should  be  happy  to  see  yourself  and 
your  foreman  at  your  earliest  convenience,  in  reference  to  the  fitting  of  the 
suit  of  clothes  which  you  are  to  make  for  me. 

I  am 

Respectfully  yours, 

MILLARD  FILLMORE. 


Letters  from  Genl.  FRANKLIN  PIERCE,  Ex-President  of  the 

United  States. 

» 

Washington,  D.  C,  lQth  July,  1853. 

My  dear  Sir  : 

The  President  found  your  note  of  the  9th  inst.  awaiting,  with  many 
others,  his  return  from  New  York,  and  he  desires  me  to  express  to  you 
the  extreme  mortification  he  feels  to  learn  that  the  reception  of  your 
tasteful  suit  of  clothes,  forwarded  some  months  since,  has  not  been  ac- 
knowledged. 

The  garments  were  all  admirably  adapted  to  the  figure,  considering 
the  circumstances  under  which  they  were  made,  and  will  not  require  any 
alteration.  * 

*  Was  measured  and  fitted  by  Mr.  Fox,  simply  by  the  eye. 


206 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


The  President  desires  me  to  assure  you  that  lie  appreciates  the  kind- 
ness and  generosity  which  prompted  so  handsome  a  gift. 

With  high  regard,  I  am, 

Yr.  friend  and  servant, 

SIDNEY  WEBSTER. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  Merchant  Tailor,  Broadway, 

New  York  City. 


Washington,  D.  C,  17*7*  May,  1854. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq. : 

Sir, — The  President's  coachman  and  footman  are  in  need  of  box  coats 
for  summer.  I  wish  you  to  send,  as  early  as  possible,  coats  suitable  for 
them  in  material  and  size.  The  cloth  should  be  wool,  but  as  thin  as  a 
regard  for  strength  and  durability  will  allow.  The  color  I  wish  to  be 
more  distinct  and  decided  than  that  of  the  coats  you  made  in  the  winter. 
It  must  be  a  handsome  blue,  not  light  blue,  nor  very  dark,  but  a  medium. 
As  to  size,  they  should  be  cut  to  wear  without  any  other  coats  under 
them.  The  buttons  to  be  plain  black.  The  length  of  skirt,  I  suppose 
need  not  be  much  longer  than  an  ordinary  frock  coat.  Perhaps  you  may 
like  to  put  pocket-flaps  upon  the  hips,  to  give  the  coat  a  distinctive  char- 
acter as  a  box  coat.  It  should  be  made  of  as  thin  goods  as  will  bear  the 
pulling  on  and  off,  which  strong  men  always  subject  their  garments  to 
when  in  haste. 

Also,  you  may  send,  for  them  each  a  pair  of  pants  of  the  same  material, 
or  perhaps  thinner,  if  you  can  get  it,  of  the  same  color.  Send  me  bill,  for 
the  President,  with  goods. 

Truly  yours, 

SIDNEY  WEBSTER. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


207 


Washington,  D.  CJ,  IWi  July,  1855. 

Dear  Sir: 

I  return  the  sample  of  the  goods  selected  for  the  coat.  Probably  no 
suggestion  concerning  the  style  or  make  of  the  garments  is  necessary. 
As  it  is  to  be  a  dress  coat,  the  style  will  be  the  same,  I  suppose,  as  a  dress 
coat  of  cloth.  As  it  is  to  be  for  summer  wear,  and  of  light  goods,  it 
should  be  made  up  as  light  as  possible,  consistent  with  neatness  of  fit  to 
the  person.  Would  not  nice  grass  cloth,  or  very  fine  hair  cloth,  be  the 
best  for  stiffening  about  the  chest,  instead  of  heavy  cloth  ? 

As  to-day  is  Thursday,  I  hope  you  will  be  able  to  forward  the  coat  by 
the  middle  of  next  Aveek. 

Truly,  yours, 

SIDNEY  WEBSTER. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  New  York. 


Washington,  D.  C,  21st  July,  1853. 

My  dear  Sir  : 

The  black  overcoat,  to  which  you  refer,  was  a  most  excellent  fit,  consider- 
ing the  circumstances  under  which  it  was  made,  and  is  considered  by  the 
President  a  most  appropriate  and  a  tasteful  garment. 

If  I  can  be  of  any  further  service  to  youin  any  way,  you  must  not  fail 
to  command  me.    It  will  give  me  pleasure  to  serve  you  always. 
With  high  regard, 

Your  friend  and  obed*t.  serv't., 

SIDNEY  WEBSTER. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  Merchant  Tailor. 


AN  INCIDENT  IN  THE  LIFE  OF  THE  AUTHOR. 
On  the  receipt  of  the  above  note,  the  late  ever-to-be-lamented  Senator 
James,  of  Rhode  Island,  a  kind  friend  and  customer  of  the  author,  the 
very  embodiment  of  the  fully  formed,  developed  man,  being  present 


208 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


giving  liis  order  for  clothes,  in  the  author's  establishment,  No.  333 
Broadway,  Ave  handed  him  the  open  letter,  at  the  same  time  asking 
him  for  his  opinion  and  verbal  reply  to  its  contents.  [All  must  know 
the  late  senator,  who  unfortunately  lost  his  life  in  the  prime  of  man- 
hood, by  the  explosion  of  an  ordnance  gun  of  his  own  invention.] 
He  replied,  "Why,  Fox,  your  fortunes  are  made  in  advance  ;  all  that  you 
have  to  do  is  to  go  on  to  Washington,  D.  C,  and  call  upon  the  President, 
Franklin  Pierce.  Rest  assured  that  whatever  office,  in  his  gift,  and  that 
you  think  yourself  qualified  to  fill,  you  can  obtain,  including  the  emolu- 
ments and  pay  of  the  same." 

The  author  replied,  "  My  name  is  Fox,  one  that  walks  on  two  legs ; 
but  it  seems  to  me  that  you  take  me  to  be  a  jackass.  Do  you  think  I 
would  be  such  a  fool  as  to  accept  any  office  in  the  gift  of  the  people  ?  Sir,  I 
have  a  good  office  of  my  own,  a  good  wife,  and  fine  stalwart  children,  and 
a  prosperous  mercantile  business.  I,  therefore,  decline  to  subject  myself 
to  the  loss  of  a  permanent,  profitable  business,  and  risk  being  turned 
out  of  office  on  the  incoming  of  the  next  unknown  administration."  And 
so  we  say  up  to  the  present  time.    Furthermore  this  deponent  saith  not. 


Correspondence  with  the  Hon.  STEPHEN  A.  DOUGLAS. 

Washington,  D.  C,  July  31,  1852. 

My  dear  Sir  : 

Herewith  you  will  find  a  draft  by  Selden,  Withers  &  Co.,  on  the  Bank 
of  Commerce,  in  your  favor,  in  full  for  your  bill. 

Respectfully,  your  obed't  serv't, 

S.  A.  DOUGLAS. 

Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  New  York. 
P.  S. — Please  acknowledge  receipt. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


209 


Correspondence  with  TnE  NAVY  DEPARTMENT. 

Navy  Department,  June  26,  1852. 

Sir: 

In  reply  to  your  letter  of  the  25th  inst.,  addressed  to  the  Chief  Clerk  of 
the  Department,  I  have  to  inform  you  that  the  patterns  referred  to  in  the 
Uniform  Regulations  will  probably  be  received  in  a  few  days,  when  a  copy 
will  be  sent  to  you. 

I  am,  respectfully, 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

WM.  A.  GRAHAM. 

Mr.  George  P.  Fox, 

Broadway,  New  York. 


Correspondence  with  the  late  Commodore  MATHEW  C.  PERRY 
and  GEORGE  P.  FOX. 

Navy  School,  Annapolis,  Md., 
June  3,  1852. 

Dear  Sir: — 

If  you  have  not  yet  put  the  lace  on  my  coat  and  pantaloons,  I  will 
thank  you  not  to  do  so  until  my  return  to  New  York,  as  I  have  some 
doubt  whether  it  will  not  be  better  to  use  English  imported  lace. 

« 

Respectfully, 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

M.  C.  PERRY. 

George  P.  Fox, 

Broadway,  New  York. 


Will  Mr.  Brown,  at  the  Naval  Store-keeper's  office  at  the  Navy  Yard, 
please  give  to  Mr.  Fox  the  name  of  the  Contractor  for  blue  flannel  for  the 
Navy? 

M.  C.  PERRY. 

14 


210  CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 

Mr.  Horseman: — 

Please  deliver  to  tlie  bearer  (Mr.  G.  P.  Fox)  my  cap. 

M.  C.  PERRY. 

June  23d,  1852. 


Mr.  Gustaytts  A.  Ratz  : 

Please  deliver  to  Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  or  his  order,  my  new  sword-belt 
and  epaulets. 

M.  C.  PERRY. 

At  Mr.  Belmont's  office, 

corner  of  Beaver  and  Hanover  streets. 


Correspondence  with  the  DEPARTMENT  OF  STATE. 

Department  of  State,  Washington, 
October  2d,  1852. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

333  Broadway,  N.  Y. 
Sir; — As  requested  in  your  note  of  the  29tli  ult.,  I  send  herein  a  de- 
scription of  the  uniform  for  U.  S.  Consuls,  recommended  in  the  instructions 
from  the  Department.  It  is  proper  to  state  that  it  is  not  obligatory  upon 
Consuls  to  adhere  closely  to  the  same,  but  they  are  left  free  to  adopt  such 
other  dress  as  may  be  suited  to  the  place  of  their  respective  residence. 
The  Department  has  never  caused  any  drawings  to  be  made  of  a  Consul's 
full  dress,  otherwise  they  should  have  accompanied  the  inclosed. 

I  am,  Sir,  respectfully, 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

C.  M.  CONRAD, 
Acting  Secretary. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


211 


Washington-,  January  28,  1854. 

Dear  Sir  : — 

I  have  been  requested  by  Mr.  G.  P.  Fox,  a  highly  respectable  person 
who  is  engaged  in  an  extensive  business  in  New  York,  as  a  merchant 
tailor,  to  address  you  aline  in  behalf  of  his  son,  who  is  about  to  visit 
Europe  on  matters  connected  with  business,  and  to  express  the  hope  tha 
you  may  be  able,  without  inconvenience,  to  facilitate  the  objects  he  has 
in  view.  I  take  occasion  to  inclose  a  Consular  list  corrected  to  date. 
I  remain,  sir, 

Very  respectfully, 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

GEORGE  I.  ABBOT, 

Consular  Bureau. 

George  N.  Sanders,  Esq., 

U.  S.  Consul,  London,  England. 


Letter  op  the  Hon.  THOMAS  CORWIN,  Introducing  Mr.  Geo. 
P.  Fox  to  Gen'l.  Winfield  Scott. 

Washington,  D.  C,  Dec.  22d,  1852. 

Dear  General  : — 

This  note  will  be  presented  to  you  by  Geo.  P.  Fox,  emperor  of  all  the 
wide-world  dominion  of  Tailordom.  Mr.  Fox  furnishes  all  the  clothing 
in  vogue  for  civil  and  military  gentlemen,  and  begs  of  me  the  favor  of 
this  note  of  introduction. 

Very  truly  yours, 

THOS.  CORWIN. 

Major  Gen'l.  Scott. 

Correspondence  with  the  Hon.  EDWARD  EVERETT. 
It  would  be  convenient  to  Mr.  Everett  to  receive  the  garments  ordered 
of  Mr.  Fox  some  weeks  since. 
Washington,  Feb.  14, 1853. 
Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  Broadway,  New  York. 


212 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Correspondence  with  tiie  Hon.  HORACE  GREELEY,  Editor  of 
tiie  New  York  Tribune. 

xMr.  Fox:— 

I  dK  not  receive  your  bill  with  my  clothes.  Please  send  it  by  bearer, 
and  oblige 

Yours, 

HORACE  GREELEY. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Broadway, 
New  York,  July  7,  1854. 


Letter  prom  ROBERT  BE  ALE,  formerly  Sergeant- at- Arms  of 
the  United  States  Senate. 

Senate  Chamber,  Feb.  18, 1852. 

Dea.r  Sir: 

I  Lave  seen  a  variety  of  specimens  of  the  work  of  Mr.  Fox,  who  bears 
this,  and  I  take  great  pleasure  in  introducing  him  as  a  gentleman  who 
Stands  at  the  head  of  his  profession.  He  is  very  appropriately  styled  the 
Leader  of  Fashion.  He  is  here  for  the  purpose  of  getting  orders  from 
gentlemen  who  desire  to  have  garments  made  fashionable,  durable,  and 
tasteful.  I  have  given  him  an  order  for  a  suit  for  myself,  which  I  was 
induced  to  do  from  examining  the  neatness,  and,  indeed,  beauty  of  the 
mechanical  execution  of  his  work. 

ROBERT  BEALE, 

To  George  P.  Fox,  Esq., 
333  Broadway,  New  York. 

Senate  Chamber,  March  15, 1852. 

My  Dear  Sir  : — 

I  acknowledge  with  great  pleasure  the  receipt  of  the  suit  you  made  for 
me  ;  it  suits  me  exactly ;  in  point  of  material,  quality,  color,  fit,  finish, 
and  neatness  of  execution  nothing  can  be  more  perfect ;  they  fit  with  all 
the  ease  of  an  old  suit,  while  they  exhibit  all  the  polish  of  a  new.  I 
would  not  have  the  alteration  of  a  hair  in  any  one  of  the  vestments,  and 
I  beg  you  to  preserve  my  measure. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


213 


You  wjll  be  good  enough  to  make  a  summer  suit  at  your  convenience  ; 
the  materia],  color,  and,  in  short,  all  that  appertains  to  them,  I  leave  to 
your  superior  taste  and  judgment.  A  lady  complimented  you  by  saying 
my  suit  was  neatly  beautiful. 

With  my  best  wishes,  I  remain, 

Your  friend  and  obed't  serv't, 

ROBERT  BEALE. 

To  George  P.  Fox,  Esq., 
333  Broadway,  New  York. 

Correspondence  with  the  Hon.  G.  W.  WRIGHT,  ex-Member  of 
Congress  from  California. 

House  of  Reps.,  Washington,  D.  C, 
December  4,  1850. 

My  Dear  Sir  : — 

Please  get  me  up  a  bona  fide  Navy  blue  dress  coat,  first  quality,  gilt 
buttons,  and  a  pair  of  first  quality  black  doeskin  pants,  and  forward  the 
same  forthwith  by  Adams'  Express. 

Please  send  us  a  few  of  your  cards. 

Very  respectfully, 

G.  W.  WRIGHT. 

Mr.  Fox,  Merchant  Tailor, 
Broadway,  N  Y. 

Willard's  Hotel,  Washington,  D.  C, 
January  22,  1853. 

My  Dear  Fox  : — 

Your  very  kind  favor  of  the  15th  inst.,  under  cover  to  Senator  Gwin, 
was  duly  received,  and  would  have  received  my  immediate  attention  but 
for  the  fact  that  I  was  hourly  expecting  to  hear  from  your  city.  My  long 
delay,  however,  has  only  proven  the  necessity  of  a  still  longer  stay,  and  I 
now  write  this  line  to  inform  you  that  I  shall  leave  here  either  on  Thurs  • 
day  or  Friday  next. 


214 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


I  shall  avail  myself  of  the  pleasure  of  an  immediate  call  upon  you  upon 
my  arrival.  I  had  but  an  hour  or  two  while  in  New  York  last,  and  found 
it  impossible  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  Napoleon  of  America. 

I  have  many  things  to  say,  and  a  few  orders  to  be  filled.  I  leave  for 
California  on  the  20th  of  March,  or  the  5th  of  April ;  meantime,  I  trust  I 
shall  have  the  pleasure  of  presenting  to  you  many  of  my  friends  who  are 
bound  to  occupy  prominent  positions  in  the  new  administration,  and  of 
course  we  shall  both  feel  great  pride  in  seeing  them  dressed  like  gentle- 
men, to  say  the  least. 

Very  respectfully, 

Your  devoted  friend, 

G.  W.  WRIGHT. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,, 

Broadway,  New  York. 

Extract  of  Presentation  of  the  Speeches  of  T.  F.  MEAGHER 
Esq.,  the  Distinguished  Irish  Orator  to  Geo.  P.  Fox. 
Presented  to  G.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  by  T.  F.  Meagher,  in  most  friendly  acknowl- 
edgment  of  the  very  handsome  and  costly  gift  he  gave  me  the  10th  of 
January,  1853,  the  anniversary  of  my  escape  from  Van  Dieman's  Land ; 
in  acknowledgment,  moreover,  of  his  unvarying  attention  to  me  ever 
since  my  arrival  in  America,  and  with  the  heartiest  wishes  for  his  contin- 
ued success  in  that  profession  which  his  honesty,  patriotism,  and  great 
ability  has  adorned. 

Letter  from  an  Unknown  Correspondent. 

Dayton,  Ohio,  Oct.  11, 1852. 

Mr.  George  P.  Fox : — 

Dear  Sir — Inclosed  you  will  find  $50,  for  which  I  want  you  to  make  me, 
as  soon  as  possible,  an  Oriental  K'haban  of  black  or  blue.  Make  it  to 
suit  your  own  taste,  except  the  sleeves,  which  I  want  in  overcoat  style. 
Direct  to  me,  Burnet  House,  Cincinnati,  care  of  John  L.  Cassiday. 

Yours,  &c, 

A.  MASON. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


215 


Letter  prom  the  Most  Rev.  THEOBALD  MATITE  W,  the  Great 
Ai>ostle  op  Temperance. 

My  Dear  Mr.  Fox  :— 

Accept  my  sincere  thanks  for  your  exceeding  generosity,  in  presenting 
me,  unsolicited,  witli  a  superb  suit  of  black  clotli  clothes.  The  delicate 
manner  in  which  you  conferred  this  favor  much  enhances  the  value  of  the 
gift. 

Believe  me, 

Your  grateful  friend, 

THEOBALD  MATHEW. 

New  York,  Oct.,  25,  1851. 


Correspondence  with  JENNY  LIND. 

G.  P.  Fox  will  please  take  Miss  Lind's  instructions  for  making  a  gen- 
tleman's morning-wrapper,  and  oblige 

JNO.  F.  KING. 
(Countersigned)  Jenny  Lind. 


Letter  from  Sir  H.  L.  BULWER,  formerly  Ambassador  from  Eng- 
land to  the  United  States,  now  her  Britannic  Majesty's  Am- 
bassador to  Constantinople. 

Sir  :— 

I  will  call  on  you  to-day,  and  there  are  a  few  small  alterations  in  the 
trowsers  which  I  will  suggest. 

Yours  very  truly, 

H.  L.  BULWER. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq.,  &c,  &c,  &c. 


216 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


(A.) 

Letters  from  B.  LYTTON,  the  Son  of  Sir  Edward  Bulwer  Lyt- 
ton,  Bart.,  formerly  Attache  to  the  British  Legation  at  Wash- 
ington, AND  NOW  CELEBRATED  FOR  HIS  POETICAL  REPUTATION  AS 

"  Owen  Meredith." 

I  beg  to  testify  to  Mr.  Fox's  ability  as  an  artist  of  great  genius  both 
in  the  conception  and  execution  of  every  work  and  branch  of  a  profession 
of  which  he  is  rightly  entitled  "  the  President." 

BULWER  LYTTON. 

British.  Legation,  Washington, 
February,  1852. 

(B.) 

British  Legation,  Dec.  5,  '51.  - 

Dear  Sir  : — 

As  the  1st  of  January  is  approaching,  and  I  shall  be  in  want  of  my  uni- 
form on  that  day,  I  have  availed  myself  of  Mr.  Moore,  one  of  H.  M.  Mes- 
sengers, being  in  New  York,  to  request  him  to  bring  it  with  him  on  his 
return  to  Washington.  I  would,  therefore,  be  obliged  to  you  if  you  would 
give  it  to  him  or  his  order. 

The  waistcoat  you  sent  me  I  received  quite  safely — it  is  not  the  exact 
color  which  I  thought  I  had  mentioned,  but  is  very  well  made,  and  fits 
well. 

*  #### 
I  should  be  glad  to  know  if  you  think  you  are  likely  to  be  in  Washing- 
ton during  the  winter,  as  if  I  remain  in  this  country  the  whole  of  that 
season,  I  shall  be  in  want  of  some  winter  clothes,  and  would  wait  till 
I  could  see  you  before  getting  them,  if  you  are  likely  to  be  here  then. 

I  should   also  be  glad  if  you  would  inform  me,  if  you  are  not 
coming  up  here,  I  could  send  you  the  amount  of  your  bill  to  New  York. 
Your  obed't  servant, 

B.  LYTTON. 

To  Geoege  P.  Fox,  Esq., 
New  York  City. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


217 


Letter  from  Col.  SCOTT  CUNNINGHAM,  Paymaster  U.  S.  N. 

Washington,  Oct.  8,  1862. 

My  Dear  Fox  :— 

On  Wednesday  last,  I  visited  the  tomb  of  Washington,  at  Mount  Ver- 
non, and  brought  away  a  stick  suitable  for  a  walking  cane,  which  I  shall 
take  pleasure  in  offering  for  your  acceptance.  The  wood  is  yet  in  too 
green  a  state  to  admit  of  being  mounted  with  head  and  ferrule.  It  should 
be  allowed  some  months  seasoning,  and  I  shall  therefore  send  it  to  you 
"  in  the  rough,"  with  all  its  hallowed  associations.  You  are  a  patriot  and 
will  duly  appreciate  it. 

I  was  delayed  in  getting  to  New  York  on  the  1st.  I  shall  probably 
leave  here  next  Wednesday  or  so. 

Thine  truly, 

JOHN  SCOTT  CUNNINGHAM. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

333  Broadway,  N.  Y. 

The  cane  above  referred  to  has  been  beautifully  mounted,  and  encased 
in  the  head,  under  a  glass  cover,  is  a  piece  of  the  identical  uniform  blue 
coat,  and  a  piece  of  the  buff  cassimere  of  General  Washington's  vest  and 
small  clothes,  in  which  he  surrendered  his  commission  at  Annapolis,  in 
1783. 


Letter  from  the  Gallant  Capt.  BLAKE,  U.  S.  Navy. 

Mr.  Fox  has  made  for  me  a  uniform  which  has  given  me  the  most  en- 
tire satisfaction.    I  can  safely  recommend  him  to  the  officers  of  the  Navy. 

GEORGE  S.  BLAKE,  U.  S.  N. 

New  York,  2d  Jan.,  1857. 

To  Captain  Hudson,  Steamer  Niagara. 


218 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Letter  from  an  Appreciative  Valued  Friend  and  Customer. 

Jefferson,  Chemung  Co.,  Jan.  23d,  1852. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq. : 

Dear  Sir, — I  received  the  coat  you  sent  me  by  express  this  morning. 
Also  your  letter  and  bill.  I  have  just  paid  the  bill  ($40)  to  Mr.  Rich- 
mond, express  agent  here,  and  you  will  doubtless  receive  the  amount 
simultaneously  with  the  letter. 

I  have  now  received  all  the  articles  of  clothing  I  ordered,  and  it  is  with 
pleasure  that  I  express  myself  not  only  satisfied,  but  highly  gratified  at 
the  manner  in  which  you  have  fulfilled  my  expectations.  True,  Mrs. 
Watkins  may  have  aided  in  the  selection  of  the  goods,  but  I  think,  it  is 
only  George  P.  Fox  who  could  have  turned  out  articles  made  from  these 
goods  in  such  perfect  taste  and  finished  style.  The  coat  is  a  neat,  easy, 
and  perfect  fit ;  so  with  the  other  articles.  Had  I  been  personally  pres- 
ent, and  measured  and  re-measured,  you  could  not  have  succeeded  better. 

It  follows  that  you  are  sure  of  my  patronage  and  good  offices,  so  far  as 
others  are  concerned.  Though  the  patronage  of  one  individual  is  small, 
yet  it  is  small  parts  of  which  great  and  mighty  wholes  are  composed.  I 
shall  probably  be  in  the  city  in  about  a  month,  when  I  shall  do  myself 
the  pleasure  to  make  you  a  short  call.    Meantime  I  am  truly  yours,  &c. 

GEO.  G.  FREER. 


From  a  facetious  Western  Friend  and  Customer. 
We  publish  the  following  humorous  correspondence  (per  U.  S.  mail) 
of  an  original  description,  between  a  well-known  fashionable  Broadway 
tailor  and  one  of  his  admiring  customers,  now  temporarily  sojourning  in 
one  of  the  Western  States,  for  the  reader's  amusement.  The  letters  be- 
speak, in  part,  the  spirit  of  the  times.  Some  people,  at  all  hazards,  wish 
to  dress,  and  will  dress,  becomingly.  They  get  tired  of  "  old  clothes," 
notwithstanding  the  war,  and  the  more  dismal  hue  and  cry  of  "  hard 
times." 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


219 


Madison,  Wisconsin,  Jan.  22cl,  18G2. 

My  Bear  Sir— I  regret  that  I  have  kept  you  waiting-  for  the  enclosed 
draft.  I  have  been  in  daily  expectancy  of  seeing  you  soon  in  New  York, 
and  scarcely  thought  it  worth  while  to  send  so  small  a  sum,  when  it 
would  do  just  as  well  to  give  it  to  you  personally. 

I  would  give  you  an  order  for  some  new  editions  of  your  "  beautifying 
in  cloth,"  but  really  anything  does  to  wear  out  here  in  the  West,  and  I'll 
reserve  my  new  skin  till  the  animal  gets  where  civilization  can  gaze 
upon  him  and  appreciate  the  genius  of  "  Fox."  Here  the  talent  of  ten 
thousand  Foxes  is  lightly  held  in  esteem.  A  fur  cap,  a  rough  coat,  and 
a  pair  of  moccasins,  being  as  nearly  as  possible  fall  dress. 

May  your  store  be  thronged,  your  be  purse  full,  and  your  prosperity  be 
plenteous,  throughout  1862,  and  on  through  the  century. 

Faithfully  yours, 

E.  P.  H  *  *  *  *  *  *. 

To  Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq ,  Architect  in  cloth, 

824  Broadway,  New  York  City. 


824  Broadway,  New  York,  Jan.  29, 1862. 

My  Dear  Sir, — Your  kind  favor  of  the  22d  inst.  is  to  hand  this  day 
covering  draft  for  the  amount  of  your  account  to  date,  as  per  enclosed 
receipt,  and  for  which  please  accept  my  most  sincere  thanks. 

I  cordially  approve  of  your  desire  to  give  me  an  order  for  some  new 
editions  of  beautifying  clothes,  on  your  return  to  civilized  New  York.  A 
philosopher  may  attempt  to  write,  but  never  could  fully  describe  how  de 
jected  and  miserable  a  refined  disposition  like  yours  must  at  present  feel, 
whilst  vegetating  as  you  are,  and  moulting  your  feathers,  and  rusting 
out  your  existence,  in  that  out  of  the  way  place,  Wisconsin. 

Only  imagine  E.  P.  H  *  *  *  *  *  *  *,  "  a  gentleman  and  scholar,  the 
painter  and  sculptor  by  times,"  clad  in  a  fur  cap,  a  rough  coat,  and  a 
pair  of  moccasins,  and  this  is  the  only  possible  full  dress  iu  that  unfash- 


220 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


ionable  region  of  our  land,  the  "far  West."  They  say  "fine  feathers 
don't  make  fine  birds,"  but  rest  assured,  when  Geo.  P.  Fox  gets  hold  of  the 
now  animal  E.  P.  H  ******* 's  rough  outer  skin,  he  will  tear  it  to 
pieces  with  the  voracity  of  a  four-legged  sly  fox,  and  re-adorn  the  Apollo- 
like figure  of  E.  P.  H  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  Esq.,  with  "  fine  feathers,"  viz.,  a 
combination  of  fine  broadcloth,  with  silk,  satin,  velvet,  and  net  cassimere. 
There  now,  friend,  is  not  this  a  "  Roland  for  your  Oliver  ?"  Do  not  your 
facetious  compliments  pale  before  the  effectual  fire  of  my  rejoinder? 

I  am  yours  respectfully,  ever  grateful  and  obliged, 

G.  P.  F. 

To  E.  p.  H  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  Esq.  "Briggs'  Hotel, 
Chicago,  111. 


Letter  from  a  Member  of  the  French  Legation  at  Washing- 
ton, D.  C. 

Washington,  le  17  Fen.,  '52. 

Mr.  Geo.  P.  Fox: 

Monsieur, — J'ai  recu  le  pantalon  que  vous  m'avez  envoye  en  justifiant 
parfaitement  votre  devise  Faire  sans  dire.  Malheureusement,  il  ne  m'allait 
pas,  ou  qui  n'a  rien  d'etonnant  puisque  vous  ne  m'avez  jamais  vu.  Mon 
colligue  de  Richmond,  M.  Henri  Tabouelle,  le  trouvant  a  son  gout  et  a 
la  taille  l'a  pris  et  m'a  charge  de  vous  prier  de  lui  envoyer  le  bill,  an 
Louis  de  la  Legation  de  France. 

Je  m'adresserai  a  vous  avec  plaisir  a  l'occasion.  Agriez,  Monsieur,  l'as- 
surance  de  ma  parfait  consideration. 

L.  DEJARDIN. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


221 


UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA. 
State  of  New  York. 

City  and  County  of  New  York,  ss.  : 

Be  it  remembered,  That  on  the  sixteenth  day  of  October,  in  the  year 
of  our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty- six,  George  Patrick 
Fox  (late  of  Great  Britain)  appeared  in  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas,  for 
the  City  and  County  of  New  York,  the  said  Court  being  a  Court  of  Rec- 
ord, having  common  law  jurisdiction,  and  a  clerk  and  seal,  and  applied  to 
the  said  Court,  to  be  admitted  to  become  a  Citizen  op  the  United 
States  of  America,  pursuant  to  the  directions  of  the  Act  of  Congress  of 
the  United  States  of  America,  entitled  "  an  Act  to  establish  an  uniform 
rule  of  naturalization,  and  to  repeal  the  Acts  heretofore  passed  on  that 
subject,"  passed  April  14th,  1802  ;  and  the  Act  entitled  "an  Act  for  the 
regulation  of  seamen  on  board  the  public  and  private  vessels  of  the  Uni- 
ted States,"  passed  March  3d,  1813 ;  and  the  "  Act  relative  to  evidences 
in  case  of  naturalization,"  passed  22d  March,  1816 ;  and  the  Act  entitled 
"  an  Act  in  further  addition  to  an  Act  to  establish  an  uniform  rule  of  nat- 
uralization, and  to  repeal  the  Acts  heretofore  passed  on  that  subject," 
passed  May  26th,  1824  ;  and  an  Act  entitled  "  an  Act  to  amend  the  Acts 
concerning-  naturalization,"  passed  May  24th,  1828 ;  and  the  said  appli- 
cant, having  thereupon  produced  to  the  Court  such  evidence,  made  such 
declaration  and  renunciation,  and  taking  such  oaths,  as  are  by  the  said 
Acts  required,  Thereupon,  it  was  ordered  by  the  said  Court,  that  the 
said  applicant  be  admitted,  and  he  was  accordingly  admitted  to  be  a  Cit- 
izen of  the  United  States  of  America. 

In  testimony  whereof,  the  Seal  of  the  said  Court  is  hereto  affixed,  this  six- 
teenth day  of  October,  1856,  and  the  eightieth  year  of  the  Independence 
of  the  United  States. 

[Seal.]  By  the  Court. 

BENJ.  H.  JARVIS,  Clerk. 


222 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Letters  from  Snt  JOHN  F.  CRAMPTON,  formerly  British  Am 

BASSADOR  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES,  NOW  H.  B.  MAJESTY'S  AMBASSA- 
DOR to  St.  Petersburgh,  Russia. 

Washington,  May  5,  1852. 

Sir  :— 

I  inclose  you  a  check  for  the  amount  of  a  bill  against  Mr.  Lytton. 
#***■*  ******** 

If  you  will  be  good  enough,  to  send  me  the  receipt  I  will  forward  it  to 
him. 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

JOHN  F.  CRAMPTON. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 
New  York. 


Washington,  June  16,  1852. 

Sir:— 

I  inclose  herewith  a  check  for  your  bill.  Please  send  me  a  receipt  for 
the  same. 

Your  most  obed't  serv't, 

JOHN  F.  CRAMPTON. 

G.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

New  York. 


Letter  of  ISAAC  V.  FOWLER,  Esq.,  Postmaster  of  New  York. 

Post  Office,  New  York, 
March  16,  1859. 

Dear  Sir  : — 

Permit  me  to  introduce  to  you  Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  of  New  Jersey,  who 
wishes  to  see  you  on  a  matter  of  business  connected  with  the  department. 

He  is  a  gentleman  of  character  and  position,  and  you  can  implicitly 
rely  upon  the  correctness  of  any  statements  made  by  him. 

Very  respectfully  yours, 

ISAAC  V.  FOWLER. 

Horatio  King,  Esq., 
Assistant  Postmaster- General,  * 
Washington,  D.  C. 


LIVING  AND  DEPAKTED. 


223 


Correspondence  with  the  WAR  DEPARTMENT. 

Adjutant-General's  Office, 
Washington,  Feb.  17,  1860. 

Sir  :— 

Your  letter  of  the  9tli  inst.,  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  has  been  referred 
to  this  Office,  and  in  partial  compliance  with  your  request,  a  copy  of  the 
Army  Register  for  1860  has  been  transmitted  to  your  address. 

A  revised  edition  of  the  regulations  respecting  the  dress  of  the  army 
is  now  in  preparation  for  the  press.  A  copy  will  be  furnished  you  at  the 
earliest  moment  practicable. 

Very  respectfully, 

Your  obed't  serv't, 

S.  COOPER. 

Adjutant-General. 

To  Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

No.  824  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


Letters  from  Members  of  the  French  Legation  at 
Washington,  D.  C. 

New  York,  le  30  Janr.,  1862. 

MON  CHER  AMI : 

Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  tailleur  fashionable  de  New  York,  m'a  fait  un 
uniforme,  une  habit  de  soiree  et  une  Redingotte  habillee  a  ma  tres  grande 
satisfaction.    II  a  un  coupeur  francais,  dont  je  fais  grand  cas. 

Mr.  Fox  se  rendant  a  Washington  pour  solliciter  des  ordres  me  prie  de 
le  recommander  a  quelqu'un  de  la  Legation.  Etant  content  de  lui,  je  lui 
donne  cette  lettrepour  vous,  dans  le  cas  ou.  vous  ayez  besoin  de  ses  services, 
Neuilly  le  recommander  a  les  messieurs  de  la  Legation. 

Je  vous  rendour  elle,  cher  ami,  l'assurance  de  ma  bien  bonne  amitie. 

M't  tout  affec. 

JS.  BORER. 


224 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


J'ai  ete  a  meme  d'apprecier  l'elegance  des  vetements  faits  par  Mr.  Geo. 
P.  Fox  et  le  recommande  a  M.  M.  Alnecar,  Jom  de  Bertodanos 
Ariaga. 

Washington,  1  Mai,  1802. 

L.  DEJARDIN. 
431  14tli  Street. 


Washington,  May  22,  1866. 
Bear  Sir, — You  have  not  sent  your  bill.    I  hope  it  is  not  growing. 
Please  send  it. 

Can  you  make  me  three  nice  suits  of  very  light  and  comfortable 
summer  clothing,  say  one  black,  one  white,  and  one  some  mixed,  but 
light  color  ? 

If  some  other  color  than  pure  black  or  white  will  be  a  better  taste, 
please  advise  me,  also  if  the  coat,  half  way  between  sack  and  frock,  should 
be  of  different  color  for  part  suit ;  I  shall  rely  on  your  taste  to  have 
everything  just  right. 

Make  one  suit  immediately  that  I  may  try  fit  and  style  before  the 
others  are  made. 

Please  answer  immediately, 
Yours  truly, 

S.  P.  CHASE. 

G.  P.  Fox, 

Merchant  Tailor. 


Washington,  May  7,  1866. 
My  Dear  Sir, — I  return  you  samples  here  and  pinned  together  which 
seem  to  me  best,  but  I  have  so  poor  an  opinion  of  my  judgment  in  such 
matters  that  I  shall  be  glad  to  have  you  exercise  your  own  without  regard 
much  to  mine. 

Instead  of  one  of  the  three,  say  the  darkest,  would  it  not  be  better  to 
have  a  pure  black  suit?    What  goods  do  you  use  for  black  ? 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


225 


What  I  insist  on  chiefly  is  lightness  and  comfort  in  warm  weather. 
The  question  of  having  coat,  pants,  and  vest  of  the  same,  or  different 
colors,  I  leave  to  yon. 

First,  Please  make  the  white  suit,  or  white  except  coat  as  you  think  best, 
and  if  possible  let  me  have  it  this  week.  If  you  come  to  Washington 
perhaps  you  will  bring  it,  and  then  we  can  decide  as  to  the  vest. 

It  is  probable  that  I  shall  leave  town  next  week  early,  perhaps  Monday. 

Yours  truly, 

S.  P.  CHASE. 

Mr.  G.  P.  Fox. 


Providence,  R.  I.  Sept.  1, 1866. 

Dear  Sir, — Your  bill  of  $557,  also  $212,  reached  me  here  yesterday. 
Inclosed  is  check  for  balance  for  $345.  Please  send  bill  receipted  to 
Washington,  where  I  expect  to  be  after  a  few  days. 

Yours  respectfully, 

S.  P.  CHASE. 

Mr.  G.  P.  Fox. 

Merchant  Tailor. 


Washington,  Dec.  4,  1866. 

Dear  Sir, — The  clothes  meet  general  approbation.  The  shirts,  though 
not  expected,  did  not  yet  arrive. 

Yours  respectfully,. 

S.  P.  CHASE. 

Mr.  G.  P.  Fox. 

15 


226 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


Navy  Department, 
Washington,  March  31, 1870. 

Sir, — Agreeably  to  your  request,  which  was  referred  to  this  Department 
by  the  Hon.  James  Brooks,  I  transmit  herewith  a  copy  of  the  Naval 
Uniform  Regulations.  A  Register  will  be  sent  to  you  as  soon  as 
published. 

For  the  other  books  named  in  your  request,  your  letter  has  been 
referred  to  the  War  Department,  who  will  doubtless  forward  publications 
which  you  desired. 

Very  respectfully, 

HOLMES  E.  OFFEY, 

Chief  Clerk. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq. 

No.  47  Amity  Street,  New  York. 


Adjutant  General's  Office, 
Washington,  April  6, 1870.  ' 

Hon.  James  Brooks,  M.  C, 
Washington,  D.  C. 

Sir, — I  have  to  return  herewith  communication  from  Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq. 
No.  47  Amity  Street,  New  York  City,  together  with  a  copy  of  the  latest 
edition  of  the  Regular  Army  Register,  and  to  inform  you  that  there  are 
no  copies  of  the  Revised  Army  Regulations  on  hand  for  distribution,  the 
last  edition  having  been  exhausted. 

I  am  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

E.  D.  TOWNSEND, 
Adjutant  General. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


227 


Department  of  State, 
Washington,  April,  19,  1870. 

Sir, — The  Secretary  of  State  desires  me  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of 
your  two  letters,  bearing  date  the  22d  ultimo,  and  16th  inst.  respectively, 
and  to  say  in  reply  that  it  is  not  the  province  of  this  Department  to 
determine  questions  of  law,  such  as  that  propounded  in  your  letter.  The 
information  you  seek  can  probably  be  obtained  by  application  to  a 
competent  lawyer. 

The  accompaniment  of  your  letter  of  the  22d  ultimo  is  herewith 
returned. 

I  am,  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant 

R,  S.  CHEN, 
Chief  Clerk. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq.. 

47  Amity  Street,  New  York. 


Attorney-General's  Office. 
Washington,  April  25, 1870. 

Sir, — I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  22d  inst. 

The  law  does  not  permit  me  to  give  you  an  official  opinion  upon  the 
question  you  ask. 

Very  respectfully, 

E.  R.  HOAR, 
Attorney-General. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

No.  47  Amity  Street,  New  York, 


228 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


*  Executive  Mansion, 

Washington,  D.  C,  May,  16, 1870. 

Sir, — Your  letter  was  referred  to  the  Secretary  of  State  with  whom  you 
should  communicate  in  regard  to  your  emblem  flag  as  a  trade  mark. 

I  am  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

HORACE  PORTER. 
Secretary. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

47  Amity  Street,  New  York. 


Department  of  State, 

Washington,  Sept.  9, 1871. 

Geo.  P.  Fox,  Esq., 

47  Amity  Street,  New  York. 

Sir, — In  reply  to  your  letter  of  the  5th  instant,  I  have  to  state  that,  by 
a  resolution  of  Congress  of  the  27th  of  March,  1867,  all  persons  in  the 
diplomatic  service  of  the  United  States  are  prohibited  from  wearing  any 
uniform  or  official  costume. 

I  am,  Sir. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

W.  HUNTER. 

Acting  Secretary. 

Correspondence  from  the  HON.  SUN  SET  COX, 
Member  of  Congress  from  the  City  of  New  York. 
My  Dear  Sir, — I  am  just  at  home  from  California. 
I  have  yours  of  28th  June  and  have  (unless  too  late)  written  for  the 
information  you  desire. 

With  regards, 

s.  s.  COX. 

To  Mr.  Geo.  P.  Fox. 


LIVING-  AND  DEPARTED. 


229 


If  it  is  proper  for  the  Dept.  to  give  the  information,  you  will  get  it 

direct.    If  you  do  not  get  it,  it  is  because  the  Dept.  wont  give  it  for  

State  reasons. 

New  York,  13  E.  12th  Street, 
Sept.  17, 1871. 


Department  of  State, 
Washington,  22d  Sept.,  1871. 

My  Dear  Mr.  Cox: — 

We  should  be  very  glad  to  provide  your  friend  Mr.  Fox  with  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  uniform  of  the  diplomatic  and  consular  servants  of  the  Repub- 
lic ;  and  so  far  as  we  are  able  it  is  given  in  the  inclosed  ;  but  the  laws 
you  helped  to  make,  as  you  perceive,  allow  only  those  diplomatic  and 
consular  officers  who  have  served  in  the  armies  of  the  United  States  to 
wear  any  uniform.  Those  who  have  so  served  may,  if  they  desire,  wear 
any  uniform  proper  for  their  military  rank  or  brevet  rank. 

DIPLOMATIC  SERVICE. 
Instructions,  Acts  op  Congress,  &c,  to  July  28th,  1866. 

§  XXII.  Ministers  and  officers  of  the  several  grades  in  the  diplomatic 
service  of  the  United  States  are  hereby  instructed  to  conform  to  the  re- 
quirements of  the  joint  resolution  of  Congress  approved  on  the  27th  of 
March,  1867,  prohibiting  them  from  wearing  any  uniform  or  official  cos- 
tume not  previously  authorized  by  Congress. 

The  34th  section  of  an  act  approved  the  28th  of  July,  1866,  authorizes 
all  officers  who  have  served  during  the  rebellion  as  volunteers  in  the 
armies  of  the  United  States  to  bear  the  official  title,  and,  upon  occasions 
of  ceremony,  to  wear  the  uniform  of  the  highest  grade  they  have  held  by 
brevet  or  other  commissions  in  the  volunteer  service.  This  section  consti- 


230 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


tutes  tlie  exception  made  in  the  prohibitory  resolution  above  referred  to, 
and  is  in  full  force  and  effect  in  its  application  to  persons  in  the  diplomatic 
or  any  other  branch  of  the  civil  service  of  the  United  States  who  may 
have  served  in  our  armies  in  the  manner  therein  described. 

The  text  of  the  joint  resolution  an  I  section  before  named  is  as  follows  : 

["Public  Resolution — No.  15.] 
"A  Resolution  concerning  the  uniform  of  persons  in  the  diplomatic 
service  of  the  United  States. 
"  Resolved  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United 
States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled,  That  all  persons  in  the  diplomatic 
service  of  the  United  States  are  prohibited  from  wearing  any  uniform  or 
official  costume  not  previously  authorized  by  Congress. 
"Approved  March  27,  1867." 

"  Sec.  34.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  all  officers  who  have  served 
during  the  rebellion  as  volunteers  in  the  armies  of  the  United  States,  and 
who  have  been,  or  may  hereafter  be,  honorably  mustered  out  of  the 
volunteer  service,  shall  be  entitled  to  bear  the  official  title,  and,  upon  oc- 
casions of  ceremony,  to  wear  the  uniform  of  the  highest  grade  they  have 
held  by  brevet  or  other  commissions  in  the  volunteer  service.  In  case  of 
officers  of  the  regular  army,  the  volunteer  rank  shall  be  entered  upon  the 
official  army  register  :  Provided,  That  these  privileges  shall  not  entitle 
any  officer  to  command,  pay,  or  emoluments." 

There  was  in  former  years  a  uniform  designed  to  meet  the  usages  of 
European  courts.  At  that  time,  on  the  recommendation  of  the  mission 
to  Ghent,  a  description  of  which  is  as  follows  : 

MEMORANDUM  OF  THE  DRESS  OF  AN  AMERICAN  MINISTER 
AS  FIXED  BY  THE  MISSION  TO  GHENT. 

A  blue  coat,  lined  with  white  silk  ;  straight  standing  cape,  embroi- 
dered with  gold,  single  breasted,  straight  or  round  button-holes,  slightly 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


231 


embroidered.  Buttons,  plain,  or,  if  they  can  be  had,  with  the  artillerists' 
eagle  stamped  upon  them — i.  e.,  an  eagle  flying,  with  a  wreath  in  its 
mouth,  grasping  lightning  in  one  of  its  talons.  Cuffs  embroidered  in  the 
manner  of  the  cape  ;  white  cassimere  breeches  ;  gold  knee-buckles  ;  white 
silk  stockings  ;  and  gold  or  gilt  shoe  buckles.  A  three-cornered  chapeau- 
bras,  not  so  large  as  those  used  by  the  French,  nor  so  small  as  those  of 
the  English.  A  black  cockade,  to  which  lately  an  eagle  has  been  at- 
tached.   Sword,  &c,  corresponding. 

The  Secretaries  have  the  same  costume,  with  the  exception  that  their 
coats  have  less  embroidery  than  that  of  the  Minister. 

It  is  usual,  at  all  European  courts,  on  what  are  called  gala  days,  such  as 
birthdays  of  the  Sovereign,  marriages  of  Princes  of  his  family,  and  other 
extraordinary  occasions,  for  the  foreign  Ministers,  as  well  as  other  per- 
sons of  distinction,  connected  with  the  court,  to  appear  in  uniforms  more 
splendid  with  embroidery,  than  upon  occasions  of  ordinary  levees,  draw- 
ing-rooms, and  diplomatic  circles.  A  decent  respect  for  the  usages  of  the 
courts,  and  a  suitable  compliance  with  forms  there  established,  make  it 
proper  that  the  Minister  of  the  United  States  should  adopt  this  custom, 
and  wear,  on  those  occasions,  a  coat,  similar  to  that  above  described,  but 
embroidered  round  the  skirts,  and  down  the  breasts,  as  well  as  at  the  cuffs 
and  cape — all  the  other  parts  of  the  dress  remaining  the  same.  The  coats 
to  be  distinguished  as  the  great  and  the  small  uniform.  There  should  be 
a  white  ostrich  feather,  or  phimet,  in  the  Minister's  hat,  not  standing 
erect,  but  sewed  round  the  brim. 

All  the  persons  attached  to  the  legation,  wear  the  same  uniform  as  the 
Secretary,  and  need  to  have  only  one. 

Department  of  State,  Nov.  6th,  1817. 

Governor  Marcy,  however,  in  1853,  (June  1st),  issued  a  circular,  doing 
away  with  such  uniforms  in  a  great  degree. 


232 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


(circular.) 

Department  of  State, 
Washington,  June  1, 1853. 

In  addition  to  the  "  Personal  Instructions  to  the  Diplomatic  Agents  of 
the  United  States  in  Foreign  Countries,"  the  following  are  hereafter  to 
be  observed  : 

In  performing  the  ceremonies  observed  upon  the  occasion  of  his  recep- 
tion, the  Representative  of  the  United  States  will  conform,  as  far  as  is 
consistent  with  a  just  sense  of  his  devotion  to  republican  institutions,  to 
the  customs  of  the  country  wherein  he  is  to  reside,  and  with  the  rules 
prescribed  for  Representatives  of  his  rank ;  but  the  Department  would 
encourage,  as  far  as  practicable,  without  impairing  his  usefulness  to  his 
country,  his  appearance  at  court  in  the  simple  dress  of  an  American  citi- 
zen. Should  there  be  cases  where  this  cannot  be  done,  owing  to  the 
character  of  the  Foreign  Government,  without  detriment  to  the  public 
interest,  the  nearest  approach  to  it  compatible  with  the  due  per- 
formance of  his  duties  is  earnestly  recommended.  The  simplicity  of 
our  usages  and  the  tone  of  feeling  among  our  people  is  much  more  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  example  of  our  first  and  most  distinguished  Represen- 
tative at  a  .royal  court  than  the  practice  which  has  since  prevailed. 
It  is  to  be  regretted  that  there  was  ever  any  departure  in  this  respect 
from  the  example  of  Dr.  Franklin.  History  has  recorded  and  commended 
this  example,  so  congenial  to  the  spirit  of  our  political  institutions.  The 
Department  is  desirous  of  removing  all  obstacles  to  a  return  to  the  sim 
pie  and  unostentatious  course  which  was  deemed  so  proper  and  was  so 
much  approved  in  the  earliest  days  of  the  Republic.  It  is  our  purpose  to 
■cultivate  the  most  amicable  relations  with  all  countries,  and  this  we 
believe  can  be  effectually  done  without  requiring  our  diplomatic  agents 
abroad  to  depart  in  this  respect  from  what  is  suited  to  the  general  seuti. 
ments  of  our  fellow-citizens  at  home.  All  instructions  in  regard  to  what  is 
called  diplomatic  uniform  or  court-dress  being  withdrawn,  each,  of  our 


LIVING  AND  DEPAKTED. 


233 


Representatives  in  other  countries  will  be  left  to  regulate  this  matter  ac- 
cording to  his  own  sense  of  propriety,  and  with  a  due  respect  to  the 
views  of  his  Government  as  herein  expressed. 

It  is  desirable  that  the  Minister  or  Charge  d'Affairs  should  establish 
the  Legation  in  as  central  a  position  as  may  be  convenient  of  the  Metrop- 
olis near  the  Government  to  which  he  is  sent.  It  will  be  his  duty  to  see 
that  it  is  kept  open  every  day,  except  Sundays  and  fete  days,  from 
9  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  until  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  Secretary 
attached  to  it,  if  there  be  one,  must  perform,  in  person,  all  the  services 
which  properly  devolve  upon  him,  except  in  cases  of  sickness  or  leave  of 
absence.  In  such  cases,  it  is  enjoined  upon  the  Minister  to  appoint  an 
American  citizen  to  represent  him,  if  it  can  be  done.  There  is  an  obvious 
impropriety  in  devolving  upon  a  foreigner  the  duties  which  belong  to  the 
Secretary.  It  is  necessary  to  be  thus  specific  in  these  instructions  ;  for  it 
has  frequently  occurred,  of  latter  years,  that  Secretaries  of  Legation  have, 
as  this  Department  is  informed,  employed  clerks  whose  allegiance  was 
foreign  to  copy  dispatches  and  do  other  official  duties  which  pertained  to 
themselves.  This  practice,  which  it  is  feared  is  upon  the  increase,  is  so 
obviously  wrong,  that  the  President  is  resolved  to  cause  it  to  be  discon- 
tinued. The  correspondence  between  the  Government  and  the  Legations 
of  the  United  States  must  be  guarded  with  the  utmost  secrecy  even  as 
relates  to  our  own  citizens.  To  submit  it  to  the  examination  of  a  for- 
eigner will  be  regarded  as  an  indiscretion  in  the  offender  demanding  im- 
mediate deprivation  of  office.  The  first  duty  of  a  subject  is  considered  to 
be  fidelity  to  his  Sovereign.  Foreign  clerks  may  justly  be  regarded  as 
unsafe  depositaries  of  the  secrets  of  our  diplomacy  in  the  Legation  where 
they  are  employed.  The  possibility  that  a  revelation  of  our  secret  State 
papers  may  occur  in  this  manner  is  sufficient  to  excite  fears  on  the  sub- 
ject and  require  the  strict  observance  of  the  above  instructions. 

Ministers  of  the  United  States  and  Charges  d'Affairs  are  requested  to 
authenticate,  by  their  own  signatures,  with  the  seal  of  the  Legation,  the 


234 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


passports  of  American  citizens,  and  not  permit  Secretaries  to  perform  this 
duty  when  they  themselves  are  at  their  posts. 

W.  L.  MARCY. 

Then,  in  1867,  Congress  brought  its  wisdom  to  bear  on  the  question, 
and  prohibited  all  but  military  uniforms,  as  above  stated,  as  you  will  see 
by  reference  to  inclosure. 

I  leave  it  with  you  to  settle  the  question  with  your  friend  Fox,  who,  I 
am  afraid,  will  be  disappointed  as  to  the  extent  of  the  field  for  supplying 
diplomatic  costume. 

Always  truly  yours, 

R.  S.  CHEW. 

The  Honorable  S.  S.  Cox, 
New  York  City. 

CRITICISMS  OF  AMERICAN  AND  ENGLISH  JOURNALS. 

NOTICES  OF  THE  PRESS  ON  THE  PRESENT  AND  FORMER  EDITIONS  OF  THIS 
WORK,  &C,  &C — FASHION  AND  POLITICS  IN  WASHINGTON — FROM  AN 
OCCASIONAL  CORRESPONDENT,  "NEW  YORK  EXPRESS." 

Washington,  Jan. — ,  1861. 

Another  week  of  excitement  has  passed,  and  the  country  is  still  com- 
paratively safe.  How  long  this  sense  of  security  will  remain,  depends 
upon  an  immediate  decisive  convention  and  a  delegation  to  Washington 
of  the  sovereign  people  of  all  the  States — East,  West,  North  and  South, 
and  somewhat  upon  our  representatives  (query  ^^representatives)  in 
Congress,  the  politicians  out  of  it,  and  the  developments  of  time  and 
future  events.  Notwithstanding  the  distractions  which  have  come  upon 
us,  the  people  in  this  metropolis  seem  prone  to  enjoy  the  usual  festivities 
of  this  season  of  the  year,  just  as  if  the  secession  movement  had  never 
been  talked  of,  and  as  if  there  was  no  embarrassment  at  all  to  our  national 
prosperity.    The  President's  series  of  levees  was  inaugurated  on  the  15th, 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


235 


in  a  style  of  brilliancy  equal  to  any  which  have  preceded  it,  and  a  large 
company  entered  into  the  gaieties  of  the  occasion  with  a  zest  equal  to  the 
best  days  of  that  democratic  institution,  a  social  reunion  at  the  Presiden- 
tial mansion.  The  President  seemed  in  excellent  spirits,  a  fact  which 
appeared  to  give  satisfactory  evidence  to  his  visitors  that  he,  at  least,  does 
not  yet  despair  of  bringing  the  ship  of  State  safely  into  the  haven  of 
peace,  and  all  in  good  season.  The  Cabinet  was  represented  by  Secretary 
Black  and  lady,  Attorney-General  Stanton,  and  Secretary  Holt,  and  Hon. 
Horatio  King.  The  Diplomatic  corps  were  out  in  full  force,  the  represen- 
tatives from  the  Courts  of  St.  James,  Russia,  Austria,  Prussia,  Belgium, 
Sweden,  Brazil,  Spain,  and  other  ministers  being  present. 

Among  the  distinguished  civilians  present,  Mr.  Geo.  P.  Fox,  the 
celebrated  tailor  of  New  York,  and  leader  of  Fashion,  attracted  attention 
by  his  gentlemanly  bearing  and  the  unequalled  magnificence  of  his  attire. 
Mr.  Fox  proved  himself  upon  this  occasion,  as  he  has  always  done  on 
every  other,  pre-eminently  the  Leader  of  Fashion ;  and  a  description  of 
his  tout  ensemble  may  prove  interesting  even  in  these  days  of  war's  alarms 
and  disagreeable  sensations.  In  this  connection  I  may  mention  that  Mr. 
Fox  had  already  created  a  sensation  in  fashionable  circles  before  his 
appearance  at  the  levee,  by  the  princely  order  of  his  street  costume, 
appearing  alternately  in  some  instances  in  half  a  dozen  different  fashion- 
able suits  of  clothes  in  the  course  of  a  day.  There  has  appeared  to  be  no 
end  to  the  variety,  extent  and  richness  of  his  wardrobe,  and  it  became 
really  a  matter  of  speculation  whether  he  could  produce  anything  new 
for  the  gathering  at  the  Presidential  levee.  Some  one,  a  wag  undoubt- 
edly, intimated  that  Mr.  Fox  would  be  obliged  to  appear  in  a  shroud  at 
the  levee,  for  it  seemed  as  if  he  had  exhausted  all  the  novelty  in  the  way 
of  mundane  habiliments,  and  would  be  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the 
outre  garb  alluded  to,  to  produce  a  further  sensation.  Strange  to  relate, 
the  Leader  of  Fashion  did  attend  the  levee  in  the  material  of  a  shroud, 
being  clothed  in  a  blue  cloth  dress-coat,  manufactured  from  the  identical 


236 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


piece  from  which  Mr.  Fox  formed  the  citizen  dress,  while  living,  and  the 
grave-clothes,  after  death,  of  the  patriotic  Webster  ;  this  garment  was  d 
la  mode,  with  blue  velvet  skirt  linings,  and  ornamented  with  gold  buttons. 
The  rest  of  the  costume  was  in  keeping,  and  was  as  follows  :  brimstone 
buff  satin  dress- vest ;  black  dress  cassimere  pantaloons  ;  frill  shirt,  with 
ruffle  sleeves  ;  white  neck-tie,  with  Valencia  ends  ;  white  kid  gloves,  black 
silk  stockings,  dress  pumps.  In  addition  to  this  beautiful  attire,  Mr.  Fox 
wore  to  the  White  House  a  military  scarlet  K'haban  envelope,  lined  with 
scarlet  silk  and  velvet,  richly  trimmed  with  gold  and  ermine  fur  collar 
and  cuffs ;  United  States  officer's  chapeau,  with  a  plume  of  red,  white,  blue 
and  buff  feathers ;  United  States  regulation  sword  and  belt.  Such  was 
the  Leader  of  Fashion's  attractive  and  extremely  tasteful  outfit  for  the  gay 
assemblage  at  the  White  House,  and  is  it  at  all  singular  that  the  wearer 
should  have  been  the  observed  of  all  observers,  even  in  that  throng  where 
the  great  effort  has  always  been  to  see  who  shall  appear  to  the  best 
advantage?  While  on  this  subject  of  dress,  I  may  mention  that  Mr.  Fox 
has  appeared  here,  dressed  in  the  distinctive  costumes  of  the  Diplomatic 
corps,  and  in  that  of  the  Army  and  Navy  officers,  as  well  as  in  the 
ordinary  garb  of  the  gentleman  of  taste  of  the  present  day. 

This  advent  of  Mr.  Fox,  who  was  driven  to  the  White  House,  in  a 
magnificent  carriage  drawn  by  splendid  gray  horses,  to  and  from  Willard's 
Hotel,  created  at  once  a  sensation.  Politics  gave  way  to  fashion,  and  the 
leaders  of  party  seemed  instinctively  to  bow  in  admiration  of  the  genius 
of  the  man  who  could  thus  create  a  sentiment  which  surmounted  even 
the  asperities  of  political  antagonism.  Mr.  Fox  was  presented  to  the 
President  by  Deputy  Marshal  Phillips,  and  after  an  exchange  of  those 
courtesies  usual  on  the  occasion,  was  introduced  to  Miss  Lane  by  Com- 
missioner Blake.  To  Miss  L.  Mr.  Fox  presented  a  beautiful  bouquet, 
somewhat  to  her  embarrassment,  it  appeared,  for  she  already  held  in  her 
hand  another  bunch  of  culled  sweets.  But  with  that  delicacy  and  tact 
which  is  her  leading  characteristic,  she  blushed,  and  passed  to  a  lady 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


237 


friend  the  bouquet  which  she  had,  and.  retained  the  pleasing  gift  of 
fashion's  leader* 

To  the  bouquet  was  attached  a  card  containing  the  following  impromptu 
effusion : 

"For  flowers  like  these  three  maids  divine  contended  ; 
For  flowers  like  these  Eve's  glorious  hours  were  ended. 
Had  you  been  there,  the  contest  ne'er  had  pended  ; 
Had  you  been  there,  the  angel  had  relented." 

On  the  obverse  appeared  the  following  patriotic  sentiment : 

"MORE  MEANT  THAN  MEETS  THE  EAR. 

"  Let  fashion  and  fashioners  frown  down,  and  immediately  try  to  avert 
all  and  every  malign  influence  that  at  the  present  time  endangers  the 
peace,  progress  and  prosperity  of  the  United  States." 

Beneath  this  sentiment  was  drawn  a  symbol  of  our  Union,  a  perfect 
circle,  with  the  four  important  chronological  events  in  our  nation's 
history,  viz  :  1492,  the  discovery  of  the  country ;  1732,  the  birth  of 
Washington  ;  177G,  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  the  present 
year,  1861  ;  inside  the  Union  circle  appeared  the  cardinal  points  of  the 
compass.  The  gift  was  very  appropriate,  and  afforded  the  fair  recipient 
much  pleasure.  The  Diplomatic  corps,  the  gentlemen  acquaintances  and 
lady  friends  of  Miss  Lane,  found  much  food  for  conversation  and  enjoy- 
ment in  this  incident  of  the  levee.  The  former  were  struck  with  the 
masterly  stroke  of  diplomacy,  which  secured  so  much  attention,  and  were 
little  inclined  to  be  envious,  but  they  bore  their  defeat  becomingly,  and 
universally  admitted  that  the  act  was  perfectly  in  keeping,  and  worthy  of 
the  man.  The  ladies  appeared  to  covet  the  gift,  and  seemed  divided  in 
their  admiration  of  the  compliment  to  Miss  L.,  and  the  delicacy  of  the 
conception  which  dictated  it. 

*  It  was  the  patriotic  bouquet  of  the  season.  In  the  centre  were  apple-blossoms, 
an  emblem  of  the  garden  of  Eden ;  while  around  the  centre  appeared  the  olive,  the 
carmel,  the  almond,  the  heliotrope,  all  significant  of  the  glory  of  the  country,  and  a 
trust  in  the  ultimate  obliteration  of  all  our  national  troubles,  through  a  peaceful 
victory. 


238 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


In  the  course  of  his  sojourn  in  this  city,  Mr.  Fox  has  been  in  familiar 
conversation  with  a  large  number  of  our  most  eminent  statesmen  and 
citizens,  who  were  quite  as  anxious  to  gather  views  upon  the  existing 
complications  in  our  government,  as  upon  the  various  topics  connected 
with  the  world  of  fashion.  Coming  so  freshly  from  the  people,  Mr.  F. 
has  been  enabled  to  impart  such  correct  information  in  regard  to  the 
public  sentiment  in  New  York,  as  has  been,  no  doubt,  acceptable  and 
valuable  to  many  of  our  national  legislators,  officials  and  others.  Among 
these  I  may  mention  the  President  and  Vice-President,  Senators  Critten- 
den, Douglas,  Gwin,  Sumner,  King  and  Latham;  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  Hon.  Horatio  King,  Hon.  John  A.  Dix,  General  Cass,  Hon.  J.  B. 
Adrain,  Hon.  John  L.  N.  Stratton,  Hon.  John  Cochrane,  Hon.  D wight 
Loomis,  Hon.  John  Woodruff,  Hon.  Reverdy  Johnson,  Col.  Kane,  Commis- 
sioner from  South  Carolina;  General  Harney,  U.  S.  A.;  Col.  Cooper.  Adj. 
Gen.  U.  S.  A. ;  Col.  Keys,  Military  Secretary  to  Lt.  Gen.  Scott;  Hon.  John 
A.  Gurley,  Hon.  John  Sherman,  Professor  S.  F.  Baird,  and  many  others.  I 
allude  to  these  merely  to  show  how  actively  the  time  of  Mr.  Fox  has  been 
employed,  and  that  he  has  had  opportunity  to  turn  attention  to  the  affairs 
of  our  suffering  country,  as  well  as  to  the  duties  of  his  peculiar  and 
honorable  profession. 

On  Saturday  morning  Mr.  Fox  paid  another  visit  to  the  White  House, 
and  had  a  more  unconstrained  interview  with  the  President  and  Miss 
Lane.  The  former  expressed  his  gratification  at  the  call,  while  the  latter 
uttered  her  unrestrained  pleasure  at  the  compliment  at  the  levee.  Mr.  F. 
made  a  tour  of  the  White  House,  the  conservatory,  &c,  in  company  with 
other  distinguished  citizens,  and  departed  after  a  most  pleasant  inter- 
change of  sentiment.  On  this  occasion  Mr.  F.  was  dressed  in  the  usual 
costume  of  a  gentleman  making  a  morning  call — morning  promenade 
coat,  fancy  cassimere  vest,  and  pantaloons  seemingly  coarse,  yet  of  the 
finest  material.  A  little  episode  occurred  at  this  visit,  which  is  worth 
relating.    As  Mr.  Fox  entered  the  White  House,  Mr.  A.  T.  Stewart,  of 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


239 


New  York,  "the  Emperor  of  tlie  rag  trade,"  as  lie  is  sometimes  called, 
was  leaving-.  Mutual  recognition  and  exchange  of  courtesies  took  place 
between  the  leader  and  one  of  his  chief  aids,  and  the  former  passed  in  as 
the  other  passed  out.  On  Sunday,  Mr.  Fox  dined  at  Willard's,  and  feasted 
like  an  old  Roman,  but  with  commendable  moderation. 

I  have  devoted  this  much  of  my  letter  to  the  famous  leader  of  fashion, 
because  he  is,  just  now,  the  sensation  here,  and  has  completely  divided 
attention  with  the  national  crisis.  Mr.  Fox  is  no  ordinary  individual.  He 
is  a  man  of  fine  literary  ability,  and  has  given  to  the  world  an  essay  on 
Modern  Dress  and  Fashion  of  transcendent  merit.  He  may  be  termed  an 
enthusiast  in  his  profession,  somewhat  transcendental  in  the  beauty  and 
originality  of  his  ideas,  yet  strong  and  vigorous  in  his  conceptions  and 
their  execution.  In  view  of  Mr.  Fox's. accomplishments,  one  may  readily 
believe  that,  if  Cotton  is  King,  Fashion  is  Supreme ;  and  thus  closes  my 
essay  on  Fashion  and  Politics  in  the  Federal  Metropolis. 

E.  PLURIBUS  UNUM. 


[From  the  London  Saturday  Review.] 

A  TRANSCENDENTAL  TAILOR. 

We  have  long  been  aware  of  the  perfection  to  which  the  Americans 
have  brought  advertising.  Englishmen  may  admire  their  own  Moses  so 
long  as  they  remain  in  Europe,  but  they  must  cross  the  Atlantic  if  they 
would  behold  the  highest  triumphs  of  the  art  of  puffing.  "  The  Presi- 
dent of  Fashion,"  Mr.  George  P.  Fox,  of  New  York,  does  this  sort  of  thing 
in  a  style  which  ought  to  teach  Moses  &  Sons  humility.  The  "  Philos- 
ophy of  Modern  Dress  "  is  not  indeed  a  poem,  nor  does  it  appear  that  Mr. 
Fox's  extensive  and  admirably-organized  establishment  contains  a  poet. 
But  perhaps  elegant  prose  is  more  likely  to  command  general  attention. 
And,  besides,  Mr.  Fox  treats  his  subject  in  a  more  enlightened  spirit  than 
the  firm  of  Moses.  According  to  them,  dress  is  everything;  but  Mr.  Fox 
more  wisely  says  that  dress  with  education  makes  the  gentleman.    "  The 


240 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


air  of  good  Society  cannot  be  given  except  by  education,  aided  by  the 
artistic  hand  of  a  genuine  tailor."  Thoughtful  men  will  be  attracted  to 
an  "institution,"  as  Mr.  Fox  calls  it,  which  puts  forward  its  claims  thus 
moderately,  while  they  will  see  through  the  fallacy  of  the  bolder  state- 
ment that  a  dress  suit  from  Moses  &  Sons  at  £5  5s.  will  at  once  turn  the 
purchaser  into  a  gentleman.  With  education,  and  "  such  an  outfit  as  em- 
anates from  the  popular  emporium  "  of  Mr.  Fox,  you  are  promised  "  a  de- 
lightful sense  of  social  security,"  and  you  feel  that  such  a  promise  may 
be  relied  on.  You  are,  perhaps,  a  little  astounded  to  hear  of  an  "  outfit 
emanating  "  from  an  emporium  ;  but  if  you  are,  that  is  a  proof  that  your 
education  has  been  neglected,  and  therefore,  if  your  social  success  should 
be  incomplete,  you  will  know  that  the  fault  is  in  yourself,  and  not  in  the 
"  artistic  hand  "  which  made  your  clothes.  And,  even  if  you  cannot  at 
once  scale  the  highest  pinnacle  of  fashion,  there  is  still  much  to  be  gained 
by  putting  yourself  under  Mr.  Fox's  care. 

"  No  civilized  man  is  apt  to  commit  a  crime  in  a  good  suit  of  clothes." 
Here  is  a  security  against  roguery  offered  in  an  unexpected  quarter.  It 
has  often  been  asked — What  is  to  be  done  to  check  the  course  of  enor- 
mous commercial  frauds  ?  How  can  a  board  of  directors  trust  its  secretary 
or  manager,  whom  it  is  powerless  to  control  ?  The  answer  is — By  requir- 
ing him  to  be  fashionably  dressed.  We  sometimes  hear  a  demand  for  a 
Government  inspection  of  joint-stock  banks.  Let  us  rather  employ  the 
Surveyor  of  the  Board  of  Trade  to  inspect  the  garments  of  the  cashiers. 
"  Arrayed  in  a  fine  and  elegant  costume,  with  the  consummate  polish  of 
appearance,  which  it  is  equally  the  duty  and  the  pride  of  the  conscientious 
artist  to  impart,  a  man  feels  his  responsibilities  as  a  citizen,  is  inspired 
with  the  love  of  order,  becomes  refined  and  elevated  in  his  tastes,  is  filled 
with  respect  for  law,  decorum,  and  propriety,  and  finds  in  his  own  charac- 
ter a  guarantee  against  temptation."  Surely  this  is  as  convincing  as  it  is 
eloquent.  Do  we  need  Mr.  Fox's  further  assurance  that  no  customer  of 
his  has  ever  been  convicted  of  a  crime?    He  gently  complains  in  another 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


241 


place  that  men  sometimes  speak  inconsiderately  of  tailors.  We  are  sure 
that  men  of  sense  will  henceforth  speak  of  them  with  profound  respect, 
and.  will  promote  them  to  the  honor  and  authority  which  is  their  clue. 
For  let  us  only  consider  what  a  first-rate  tailor  might  have  done  for  us  in 
the  Russian  war.  Instead  of  numerous  officers  ineffectually  inspecting 
gun-boats,  we  should  have  had.  a  single  officer  examining  the  make  and 
fit  of  the,  contractors'  clothes.  If  the  Gun-boat  Committee  had  read  Mr. 
Fox's  pamphlet,  they  would  have  closed  their  Report  with  a  piece  of 
practical  advice — that  all  builders  and  workmen  engaged  on  contract- 
bwilt  ships  should  be  arrayed  in  fine  and  elegant  costumes,  so  that  they 
might  find  in  their  own  characters,  as  influenced  by  the  coats  upon  their 
backs,  a  sufficient  safeguard  against  the  temptation  to  defraud  an  igno- 
rant and  careless  Board  of  Admiralty. 

Such  are  some  of  the  arguments  in  support  of  Mr.  Fox's  claims  to  the 
confidence  of  the  fashionable  world.  Let  us  now  see  how  those  argu- 
ments are  strengthened  by  authority.  The  letters  which  Mr.  Fox  has  re- 
ceived from  eminent  men  about  the  make  and  material  of  their  clothes 
are  printed  as  an  appendix  to  his  pamphlet.  In  the  van  of  this  army  of 
exquisites  marches  the  celebrated  Daniel  Webster,  who,  "  as  he  was  the 
most  able  of  Constitutionalists,  was  also  one  of  the  best-dressed  of  gentle- 
men." He  left  special  directions  for  his  burial  in  clothes  which  Mr.  Fox 
made  for  him.    Thus — 

Even  from  the  tomb  the  voice  of  nature  cries- 
saying.  "  Buy  your  clothes  of  Mr.  Fox."  A  New  York  paper  told  the 
world  that  "  Those  who  bent  over  his  coffin  recognized  that  mighty  form, 
robed  in  the  same  vest  and  the  same  blue  dress  coat,  with  the  velvet 
collar  and  gold-wove  cloth  buttons,"  &c. ;  and  we  learn  from  an  affidavit 
of  Mr.  Fox,  duly  sworn,  and  having  a  piece  of  blue  cloth  annexed,  that 
the  pantaloons  of  black  cassimere  emanated  from  the  same  emporium. 
There  is  also  a  note  of  Mr.  Webster  desiring  to  have  his  "  K'haban"  on  a 
particular  morning ;  and  another,  stating  that  it  is  "the  most  comfortable 
16 


242 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


and  easy-fitting  summer  garment  lie  had  ever  worn."  Mr.  Webster's 
secretary  assures  Mr.  Fox  that  the  great  Statesman  actually  dictated  these 
words ;  and  the  same  personage  also  vouches  for  the  fact  that  "  he  was 
interred  in  his  best  blue  coat,"  being  the  identical  one  which  the  news- 
paper above  quoted  calls  "this  same  chaste,  but  nobly  made,  blue  dress- 
coat."  We  are  thankful  to  the  secretary  for  this  statement  from  an 
impartial  witness,  because,  on  a  point  of  such  importance,  we  could 
scarcely  feel  satisfied  either  Avith  the  unsupported  affidavit  of  Mr.  Fox,  or 
with  a  newspaper  paragraph  the  style  of  which  suggests  a  suspicion  that 
it  may  have  emanated  from  the  emporium  in  Broadway.  On  the  whole  of 
the  evidence,  we  do  not  feel  any  doubt  that  Mr.  Webster  was  really 
buried  "  in  the  said  suit  of  clothes  as  above  set  forth." 

With  a  noble  generosity,  Mr.  Fox  sends  presents  of  cloth  to  distin- 
guished citizens,  and  then  offers  to  make  it  up  into  garments  gratis.  We 
understand  that  Mr.  Fox  finds  his  reward  in  the  proud  consciousness  that 
he  has  helped  to  make  a  new  President  and  his  Ministers  look  like 
gentlemen.  Mr.  Filmore  would  have  been  happy  to  avail  himself  of  one 
of  these  kind  offers,  "but  the  truth  is,  I  have  found  it  more  difficult  to 
procure  a  perfectly  fitting  pair  of  pantaloons  than  any  other  garment," 
and,  therefore,  he  cannot  venture  to  send  a  pattern.  We  can  fancy  how 
Mr.  Fox  hereupon  gently  patronized  the  President,  and  taught  him  not 
to  be  ashamed  of  his  own  legs  in  his  own  drawing-room.  Ambition  too 
often  ends  in  disappointment,  but  ex-President  Filmore  carried  with  him 
into  his  retirement  that  peace  of  mind  and  ease  of  movement  which  were 
derived  from  the  consciousness  of  being  well-dressed.  Another  President, 
General  Pierce,  was  treated  with  even  more  attention.  Mr.  Fox  meas- 
ured and  fitted  him  by  the  eye,  and  his  secretary  wrote  that  "  the  garments 
were  all  admirably  adapted  to  the  figure,"  and  that  the  President  appre- 
ciated the  generosity  of  the  gift.  We  may  say  that  we  appreciate  it  also, 
although  not  exactly  at  the  figure  which  Mr.  Fox  would  like.  We  cannot 
help  thinking  of  how  Sam  Slick  sold  clocks,  when  we  read,  under  date  of 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


243 


the  next  year,  that  "  the  President's  coachman  and  footman  are  in  need  of 
box-coats  for  summer."  They  are  to  have  pocket-flaps  "  to  give  the  coat  a 
distinctive  character  as  a  box-coat/'  and  Mr.  Fox  may  also  send  pants  of 
the  same  material.  We  learn  from  other  letters,  that  the  Hon.  S.  A. 
Douglas  paid  his  bill ;  that  Commodore  Perry  preferred  English  lace  on 
his  coat  and  pantaloons ;  that  the  Sergeant-at-Arms  of  the  Senate  found 
that  his  clothes  "  fitted  with  all  the  ease  of  an  old  suit,  while  they  exhib- 
ited all  the  polish  of  a  new,"  and  that  a  lady  had  said  that  the  same 
clothes  were  "  neatly  beautiful ;"  that  it  would  have  been  convenient  to  the 
Hon.  Edward  Everett,  to  receive  at  a  particular  time,  the  garments  he  had 
ordered  of  Mr.  Fox ;  that  Sir  H.  L.  Bulwer  would  have  liked  to  suggest  a 
few  small  alterations  in  his  trousers ;  that  Sir  John  F.  Crampton  paid  his 
bill,  and  also  that  of  Mr.  Bulwer  Lytton,  "the  son  of  Sir  Edward  Bulwer 
Lytton,  Bart.,"  and  desired  to  have  receipts ;  and  that  Mdlle.  Jenny  Lind 
wanted  a  gentleman's  morning-wrapper.  It  also  appears  that  Mr.  Fox 
presented  "a  superb  suit  of  black  cloth  clothes  to  Father  Mathew,  and  a 
very  handsome  and  costly  gift "  to  T.  F.  Meagher,  who  presented  him  in 
return  with  a  copy  of  his  speeches;  but  whether  or  not  the  paper  on 
which  they  were  printed  was  large  enough  to  cut  up  into  patterns  we  are 
left  in  doubt. 

A  Washington  paper  states  that  at  a  levee,  "  Mr.  Fox's  style  made 
quite  an  impression  on  our  fashionables."  In  another  sense  of  the  word, 
Mr.  Fox's  style  has  made  quite  an  impression  on  ourselves.  There  was 
an  interchange  of  salutations  on  the  occasion  between  the  President  of 
the  States,  Mr.  Filmore,  and  the  President  of  Fashion,  Mr.  Fox,  who  were 
the  two  lions  of  the  day.  We  should  think  that  Mr.  Filmore,  conscious  of 
ill-fitting  pants,  must  have  been  a  very  tame  lion  under  the  all-judging 
eye  of  Mr.  Fox.  But  it  rather  appears  that  this  levee  was  held  after  the 
President's  wardrobe  had  been  remodelled ;  and  Mr.  Fox  probably  came 
there  to  gaze  with  quiet  pleasure  at  his  own  good  work,  and  to  behold,  in 
Mr.  Filmore's  blue  coat,  fancy  vest,  and  black  cassimere  pantaloons,  one 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


more  triumph  of  that  great  career  in  which  "  he  has  adorned  the  Doric 
simplicity  of  American  principles  by  the  inimitable  grace  and  elegance  of 
an  appropriate  Democratic  costume."  We  own  with  humiliation  that  Mr. 
Moses  has  never  proposed  to  himself  an  aim  so  noble,  nor  stated  it  in 
language  so  majestic;  nor  has  his  mind  grasped  that  principle  on  which 
Mr.  Fox  insists  strongly — that  "  a  ready-made  garment  is,  according  to 
the  laws  of  good  taste,  an  impossibility."  We  are  inclined  to  think  that 
"  a  free  ticket  to  the  best  places  of  society  "  emanates  only  from  the 
emporium  in  Broadway. 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED. 


245 


NEW  r  UB  LIGATIONS. 

THE  COSMOPOLITAN  INVENTOR. — THE   PHILOSOPHY   OF   MODERN  DRESS 
AND  FASHION,  BY  MR.  GEO.  P.  FOX,  OF  THIS  CITY. 

We  have  had  an  opportunity  of  perusing  the  advance  sheets  of  his 
work,  3d  Edition,  Series  A.D.  1850,  1860,  1871.  We  give  it  as  our  opinion 
that  it  is  a  work  that  will  command  an  immense  circulation  both  here 
and  in  Europe,  on  account  of  its  great  merit,  more  especially  as  the 
author,  who  owns  and  controls  the  publication,  will  permit  the  same  to 
be  offered  to  the  public  at  prices  within  the  reach  of  all.  We  understand 
that  Mr.  Fox  intends  to  place  the  book  on  sale  with  the  most  prominent 
booksellers  of  this  city  and  throughout  the  country.  Reprints  of  the 
edition  will  appear  also  in  London,  Paris  and  other  European  cities.  We 
perceive  that  the  principal  N.  Y.  journals  are  taking  an  unusual  interest 
in  publishing  extracts  from  the  edition.  The  author  handles  the  subject 
like  an  adept  in  .polite  and  elegant  literature.  It  is  asserted  that  he  gra 
uated  from  the  humble  rank  of  a  printer's  devil,  as  ink-boy,  to  the  more 
progressive  positions  of  letter-press  and  copperplate  printer,  engraver  and 
paper  maker,  as  a  proprietor.  In  this  he  was  aided,  in  the  year  1843,  by 
his  own  inventions  on  certain  civilizing  pieces  of  machinery,  and  in 
improvements  of  a  marked  character,  such  as  the  steam-engine  valves. 
Also,  on  the  atmospheric  cylinder,  known  as  the  American  paper  machine, 
including  improvements  on  Foudrinier's  Longitudinal  and  Cross  cut 
paper-cutting  machine,  &c.  Singular  to  relate,  that  the  comparatively 
new  6th  order  of  architecture,  technically  known  as  the  "  Cosmopolitan," 
originated  with  Mr.  Fox,  who  showed  to  the  world,  for  the  first  time,  in 
the  year  1841,  newly-invented  improvements,  with  brief  specifications 
which  were  entered  by  him  in  pamphlet  form  at  Stationer's  Hall,  London. 
These  were  afterwards  known  as  the  Union  base  principle,  or  Cosmopoli- 


246 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


tan  order  of  Architecture,  and  more  especially  as  applied  to  the  construc- 
tion of  the  front  elevation  of  mercantile  edifices.  This  improved  form  of 
structure  came  into  vogue  in  this  city  about  the  year  1852.  This  style  of 
construction  was  first  shown*  at  43  Dean's  Gate  North,  Manchester,  Eng- 
land, and  then  in  an  imperfect  manner,  and  afterwards  it  was  pirated  from 
his  plans  and  working  drawings,  as  seen  in  the  large  five-story  building 
owned  by  the  late  Mr.  Strong,  northwest  corner  of  Broadway  and  Waverley 
Place,  some  years  since  occupied  by  Mr.  Wm.  Jackson  as  a  dry- goods 
store,  and  at  present  known  as  Mr.  Jackson's  mourning  establishment. 
One  of  the  prominent  mercantile  structures  showing  this  order  of  architec- 
ture in  a  more  extended  form  is  the  iron  front  and  oblong  building  owned 
and  occupied  by  the  firm  of  Messrs.  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.,  covering  the 
whole  block  (say  two  acres),  on  9th  and  10th  streets,  Broadway  and  4th 
avenue.  The  common  observer  will  notice  the  uniformity  of  elevation  of 
the  cosmopolitan  style  of  architecture.  The  so-called  "Emperor  of  the 
Dry-Goods  trade,"  Mr.  A.  T.  Stewart,  is,  therefore,  largely  indebted  to  the 
so-called  "  Leader  of  Fashion  "  and  "  Transcendental  Tailor,"  to  use  the 
language  of  the  London  Saturday  Revieic.  Mr.  Fox  claims  to  have 
originated  the  idea  of  showing  how  to  construct  grand,  imposing  and 
magnificent  mercantile  edifices,  the  finest  of  their  kind  on  the  continent 
of  America  or  in  Europe  or  elsewhere. 

*  Geo.  Fox  &  Co.,  Merchant  Tailor  and  Outfitting  Establishment,  1835— 184G.  Geo. 
P.  Fox,  sole  proprietor ;  no  partner  other  than  his  late  lamented  wife  Mary. 


LIVING  AND  DEPAKTED.  247 

4 


GEORGE  P.  FOX  STILL  LIVES. 
[From  the  N.  Y.  Express,  July  7,  1871.J 

Our  old  Merchant  Tailor,  long  the  leader  of  fashions  in  New  York,  ap- 
peared July  4th,  1871,  in  his  celebrated  U.  S.  costumes  of  Commanding 
Lieutenant,  S.  N.  XL,  then  as  Grand  Admiral,  then  as  a  Commander-in- 
chief  S.  A.  IT.,  and  finally  as  the  Emperor  of  Fashion,  in  which  he  wore 
his  grand  scarlet  coat,  a  very  costly,  rich  and  beautiful  garment,  designed 
and  made  by  him  in  J  852.  He  rode  in  a  four-horse  open  barouche,  deco- 
rated with  a  rare  and  unique  international  banner,  on  which  were  repre- 
sented the  flags  of  all  nations.  A  streamer  from  the  same  staff  bore  the 
words  :  "Faire  sans  dire.'"  "  Ventus  secundus."  On  the  front  seat  was  a 
stuffed  fox,  appearing  as  upon  a  full  run,  with  a  rooster's  head  in  his 
mouth,  and  the  body  on  his  back.  The  American  Eagle  surmounted  the 
flag-staff.    The  whole  presented  a  very  marked  and  attractive  appearance. 

Easter  Monday  he  was  invited  to  appear  in  the  German  procession,  at 
the  head  of  the  column,  and,  saluting  the  Grand  Army  and  Cavalry  escort, 
consisting  of  over  sixty-two  thousand  men,  was  honored,  in  return,  by  the 
representatives  of  William,  Bismarck,  Moltke,  Our  Fritz  and  the  other 
Princes,  and  as  "  the  Leader  of  Fashion."  St.  Patrick's  Day,  March  17, 
also  Mr.  Fox's  birthday),  Mr.  Fox  turned  out  with  eleven  horses,  an  open 
barouche,  with  four  horses,  taking  the  lead.  A  private  two  horse-carriage, 
with  blinds-drawn,  followed.  Then  came  the  yacht  "  City  of  Eagusa," 
on  a  truck  drawn  by  four  horses,  Grand  Admiral  Fox  commanding  and 
giving  his  orders  to  captain  and  crew  as  if  upon  old  ocean.  Then  came 
the  baggage  wagon,  with  all  of  the  costume  dresses  of  the  leader  of  fashion, 
the  whole  being  an  escort  to  the  Hibernians  and  all  the  Sons  of  St.  Pat- 
rick, consisting  of  an  army  of  over  forty  thousand  men.    Mr.  Fox  designs 


248 


CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE 


in  a  short  time,  as  early  as  September,  1871,  to  introduce  in  several  num- 
bers, his  Avork  on  "  The  Philosophy  of  Modern  Dress  and  Fashion,"  upon 
which  he  has  expended  a  great  deal  of  time  and  money.  The  advance 
sheets  of  this  work  have  already  been  favorably  noticed  by  the  press. 


I 


LIVING  AND  DEPARTED 


249 


569  Broadway,  Cor.  Prince  St.,  New  York, 
October  lWi,  1871. 

George  P.  Fox,  Esq  : — 

Dear  Sir, — Recollecting  with  pleasure  your  various  well-known  essays 
on  Dress  and  Fashion,  A.  D.  1850  and  1860,  and  seeing,  by  the  journal 
notices,  your  intention  of  revising  and  enlarging  your  work  up  to  1872, 
I  desire  to  submit  the  following  : 

I  thank  you  for  the  kind  interest  you  have  taken  in  my  behalf  to  ob- 
tain a  contract  for  me  to  supply  your  wealthy  friend  with  a  bill  of  goods 
in  my  line,  known  as  nnder-dress  and  men's  furnishing,  &c.  ;  and  as  I  am 
informed  that  your  friend  proposes  to  take  a  voyage  round  the  world,  I 
am  prepared  to  exhibit  samples  and  supplies  of  all  description  of  imported 
fabrics,  &c,  deemed  suitable  and  requisite  for  that  gentleman's  wardrobe. 

You  will  perceive  that  the  under-mentioned  schedule  contains  descrip- 
tions of  every  supposed  necessary  article  requisite  for  all  climates,  and 
for  the  adornment  of  his  person  (a  la  mode)  when  calling  to  pay  his  re- 
spects to  the  heads  of  the  various  Governments  during  his  sojourn,  etc. 

Before  submitting  the  schedule  to  your  friend,  I  should  feel  myself 
honored  if  you  will  do  me  the  favor  to  call  at  my  establishment  as  above, 
and  give  it  your  personal  inspection,  also  any  additional  information 
appertaining  to  contemplated  changes  of  fashion,  &c,  remarking  that  I 
have  left  space  on  the  margin  for  your  friend  to  mark  the  quantity  of 
each  or  any  article  he  may  desire. 

I  am  yours,  very  respectfully, 

C.  W.  FRENCH. 


250 


MEMORANDUM  SCHEDULE. 


MEIIORAND  TTM  8GHEB  ULE  OF  GENTLEMEN'S  FURNISHING 

GOODS,  &c. 

White  Cambric  Ties  Plain. 

White  Cambric  Ties  Embroidered. 

White  Corded  Silk  Ties. 

Black  Corded  Silk  Ties. 

Fancy  Colored  Windsor  Scarfs. 

Black  Silk  Scarfs,  Pointed  and  Fringed  Ends. 

Morning  Breakfast  Jackets. 

French  Cardigan  Jackets. 

Morning  Robe  de  Chambres. 

Prince  Arthur  Colored  Shirts. 

Embroidered  White  Linen  Shirts. 

Plain  White  Linen  Shirts. 

White  Muslin  Fine  Shirts. 

Linen  Night  Shirts  (Ruffled). 

Muslin  Night  Shirts  (Plain). 

Excelsior  Linen  Collars  assorted  Colors. 

Van  Buest  and  other  Mode,  in  Colors. 

Reversible  Linen  Cuffs. 

Oxford  Linen  Cuffs. 

Oxford  Scarf,  Plain  and  Fancy  Colors. 

Prince  Teck  Scarf,  Plain  and  Fancy  Colors. 

Silk  Pocket  Handkerchiefs. 

White  Linen  Cambrick  Handkerchiefs. 

Balbrigan  £  Hose. 

The  Best  Merino  \  Hose,  Assorted  Shades. 


MEMOEANDUM  SCHEDULE. 


Light  Kid  Gloves,  a  la  mode. 

Dark  Kid  Gloves,  " 

Castor  and  Buckskin  Gloves,  a  la  mode. 

6  Thread  Double-breasted  Merino  White  Under  Shirts. 

Gause  Merino  Single-breasted  White  Under  Shirts. 

Thick  18  Thread  Silk  Under  Shirts. 

Thin  3  Thread  Silk  Under  Shirts. 

6  Thread  Merino  Drawers. 

Gauze  Merino  Drawers. 

18  Thread  Silk  Drawers. 

3  Thread  Silk  Drawers. 

8  and  12  Ribbed  Twilled  Silk  Umbrella. 

Pemento-Mode  Walking  Sticks. 

English  Travelling  Rugs. 

Scotch  Travelling  Shawls. 

Sets  Plain  Gold  and  Agate  Studs. 

Sets  Stone  Cameo  Sleeve  Buttons. 

Plain  Gold  Neck  Studs. 

Fancy  Coral  Scarf  Pins. 

Besantien  Scarf  Pins. 

Stone  Cameo  Scarf  Pins. 

Suspenders  according  to  taste  or  requirement. 

12  Thread  Silk  i  Hose. 

3  Thread  Silk  \  Hose. 

Mode  Silk  Gloves. 

Viesma  Portmonaies  (Russia  Leather). 
Glove  Boxes  (Russia  Leather). 
Handkerchief  Boxes  (Russia  Leather). 
Cigar  Cases  and  Match  Boxes. 
Toilet  Dressing  Case  complete. 
Card  Cases — a  la  mode. 


252 


PEE  AMBLE. 


PREAMBLE. 

HEAD  AND  FOOT  COVERING. 

The  author  expected  in  the  outset  to  confine  himself  more  particularly 
to  the  subject  of  outer  garments,  viz.,  clothing,  but  submits  the  following 
as  a  list  of  the  latest  description  of  styles  of  foot  and  head  covering  for  a 
gentleman  of  wealth  and  refinement  who  is  about  taking  a  voyage  "  round 
the  world,"  and  who,  during  his  absence  from  his  home,  New  York,  and 
not  wishing  to  be  short  of  any  needed  article  of  attire  during  his  sojourn 
on  board  his  own  steam  yacht,  provides  his  valet  de  chanibre  with  the 
essentials  of  a  polished  gentleman's  wrardrobe. 

The  following  has  been  furnished  us  by  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Hunt  & 
Dusenbury,  of  N  os.  3,  4  and  5  Astor  House,  importers  and  dealers  in  hats, 
caps,  &c,  Broadway,  New  York. 

Schedule  No.  2. 

Canvas  Oil  Skin  Sou'wester,  with  Oil  Skin  Storm  Jacket,  Overcoat, 
Over-all  Trousers  to  match1;  the  same  in  India-rubber  Water-proof  Fabric. 

Cloth  Travelling  Caps,  with  Oil  Silk  Covers  in  U.  S.  N.,  old  regulation 
pattern. 

Cloth  Boat-race  Caps. 

Black  Silk  Pocket  Caps. 

Corduroy  Duck-shooting  Caps. 

Cotton  Velvet  Duck-shooting  Caps. 

Fancy-colored  Silk  Horse-racing  Caps. 

Dark  and  Light-colored  Felt  Soft  Travelling  Hats 

Ordinary  Straw  Hats. 


PKEAMBLE. 


253 


Fine  Panama  Straw  Hats. 

Dark  and  Light  Shades  of  Cloth  Soft  Hats. 

Morning  and  Evening  Dress  Hats,  Felt,  Silk  and  Beaver,  suitable  for 
the  Seasons,  including  the  Opera  Hat,  also  appropriate  Cases,  all  a  la 
mode. 


Gentlemen's  Boot-Maker,  23d  Street,  Broadway,  opposite 
Madison  Park,  New  York  City. 

Schedule  No.  3. 

House  Slippers,  No.  1. 

Gaiter,  Our  Fritz  (just  out),  No.  7. 

Oxford  Tie  Shoe,  No.  10. 

Broad  Strap  Shoe,  No.  13. 

Balmoral  Laced  English  Shoe,  No.  16. 

Buckled  English  Shoe,  No.  65. 

Webster  Tie  Shoe,  No  29. 

Congress  Gaiter  Shoe,  No.  8. 

Hunting  Gaiter  Shoe,  No.  20. 

Low-buttoned  Shoe,  No.  12. 

Imitation  Button  Shoe,  No.  2. 

Scotch  Gaiter,  No.  15. 

Dress  Calf  Boot,  No.  1. 

Patent  Leather  Boots,  No.  li. 

Biding  Boot,  No.  9. 

Napoleon  Boot,  No.  23. 

Dress  and  Dancing  Pumps,  No.  21. 

Sea-going  Salt  Water  Boots,  No.  22. 

Hunting  Boot,  No.  20. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  the  polite  reader  will  readily  understand  that 
the  enumerations  of  articles,  contained  in  schedules,  Nos.  1,  2  and  3,  are 
to  be  looked  upon  in  the  character  of  a  catalogue,  showing  parts  of  gen- 


254 


PEEAMBLE. 


tlemen's  attire,  so  that  in  the  hurry  of  farther  engagements  Ave  may 
refer  to  the  same,  when  needing  any  articles,  as  above  stated.  It  would 
be  preposterous  to  suppose  that  a  refined  gentleman  of  elegant  leisure 
would  have  a  wardrobe  the  size  of  a  merchant  tailor's  shop,  &c.  "  Cut 
your  coat  according  to  your  cloth,"  and,  by  all  means,  live  within  your 
means.    Enough  said  to  the  poor  and  the  rich  of  all  the  world. 


FINIS 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


Page 

American  familiarity   72 

Avoid  ridicule  upon  religious  subjects   77 

A  moderately  well-informed  lady,  etc   81 

A  true  gentleman  should  not  take   90 

A  man  is  a  fool  to  be  dishonest   96 

A  lady  has  the  right  at  the  latest  moment  to   91 

Author  and  Mr.  John  Bull   100 

An  English  philosopher  is   120 

Attitudes  of  the  Venus,  beautiful  in  the   157 

Action  !  Action  !   107 

Affectation   171 

A  father's  object   173 

Aim  high   177 

African  race,  and  taxes   182 


260  INDEX. 


Pagb 


Burke,  Edmond,  ,tlie  great  orator   20 

Berlin   23 

Bruramell,  Beau   29 

Bonaparte,  to  tlie  disgust  of   112 

Black,  the  color  of  darkness   145 

Blind  man,  to  liken  his  notion  of   147 

Baeon,  the  great  moralist,  is   162 

Bulvver,  Sir  H.  L   215 


INDEX.  261 

I 

Tage 

Clothes  and  Clothing   17 

Complexion,  Miss  Jones   27 

Charles  I.,  king  of  England   31 

Cleanliness,  order,  for  the  proprieties  of  life   41 

Clergy,  special  dress  for   5G 

Catholic  Church,  vestments  of,  never  vary   57 

Church,  congratulations  not  to  be  offered  in   61 

Cleanliness  and  good  manners   71 

Conversational   powers  are  not  given  to  all   7G 

China.    The  people  were  roused  to  fury   108 

Chesterfield,  Lord,  writing  to   159 

Cicero's  treatise  upon  old  age   162 

Correspondence   199 

Commissioners  of  Emigration  and  Charity,  so  called   185 

Castle  Garden  Emigrant  Depot    186 

Corwin,  Hon.  Thomas   211 

Chase,  Chief  Justice  S.  P   225 

Cox,  Hon.  S.  S   228 


262 


1NDRX. 


Page 

Dkess  maker      22 

Dress,  sarcasm  levelled  against   25 

D'Orsey,  Count,  in  recent  day   30 

Dress,  American  vs.  European   36 

Dress  Coat  indispensable  in  the  "ball-room   51 

Dress  universally  adopted,  etc   54 

Dressed  well   55 

Dishonorable  and  dishonored   98 

Diogenes  was  not  anything1  the  more   119 

Douglas,  Hon.  Stephen  A   208 

Desjardin  (of  the  French  Legation)  220 


INDEX. 


263 


Page 


Earl  of  Essex   25 

Earl  of  Harrington   29 

European  sovereigns   53 

English,  constraint   72 

Eat  with  a  fork  instead  of  a  knife   77 

Evil-doers,  a  short  shift  and  a  hoist   101 

Eighteenth  century   108 

Tattooed  skin   117 

Egyptian  linen,  texture  of    ,   128 


264 


INDEX. 


I 

Paqb 

Far  off  his  coming  shines   18 

Fox,  diaries  James,  British  Commoner   20 

Fashion :  let  it  follow  the  treasures  of  the   U.  S   22 

Fenelon,  Archbishop   25 

Fox,  George  P.    It  is  no  use  to  con,  etc   27 

Fire  Department,  New  York   85 

Fenelon's  maxim   78 

Fashion  was  not  to  be  so  ruled  by   109 

Fashion,  the  English  and  French   114 

Fashion,  the  most  ancient  with   116 

Fashion  has  been  defined    .   118 

Foot  covering   121 

Fop — vanity   143 

Frivolous,  the  French   161 

Fillmore,  Millard,  Ex-President  204,  205 


INDEX. 


265 


Page 


Good  exterior  may  become   26 

Golden  ball  introduced  black  velvet  suits   53 

Gentleman,  what  constitutes  a   69 

Gentleman  should  not  ask   83 

George  III.,  the  tyrant.   104 

Gustavus  of  Sweden   Ill 

Graham,  Dr.,  the  fashionable,  when  consulted   115 

Gold  gamblers   187 

Greeley,  Hon.  Horace   212 


266 


INDEX. 


i 

Page 

How  remarkable  well  you  look  to-day   28 

Hunter,  English,  a  picture  of  manliness   50 

Hambleton  and  Argyle,  arms  of  the  family   65 

Horseback,  accompanying  a  lady   88 

He  that  gatheretli  by  labor,  etc   94 

Honest  advocate,  foundation  stone  of   9? 

History  repeats  itself:  "Necessity  knows  no  law"   102 

Head  covering   121 

His  six  spanking  grays   130 

Had  not  learned  unblushingly  to  confide   133 

Hazlitt  says,  "  Fashion  constantly  begins  and  ends  in  two  things,"  139 

How  to  be  considerable   108 

Hampden  a  lesson  •   175 

Hoar,  Hon.  E.  R.  (Attorney-General)   227 


INDEX. 


267 


I 

Page 

Introductions  by  the  consent  of  ,   73 

Invited  guests  first  seek  the  lady  of  the  house    74 

If  a  guest  is  particularly  amusing,  etc   76 

Imperial  Nash's  rule  absolute   134 

I  have  been  in  town  and  bring  you  the  last   142 

Infant,  the  proportions  of  the  form  of,  are.   152 

I  am  sure    you  know  that  breaking  your  word  is   163 

Insults  and  injuries  ,  ,   165 


268 


INDEX 


I 

PAGB 

Jewels  of  silver  and  jewels  of  gold  borrowed  by  the  Israelites 

from  the  Egyptians  ,   113 

James  I.,  the  cloak   12S 

Jackal  resided  in  the  Indian  jungle   141 

Juno,  form  and  proportions     150 

I 

Kings  man,  Col.,  witty   28 

.  King  Nash,  like  all  popular  monarchs   131 


INDEX  269 


t 

Page 

Xet  liis  dulness  -   78 

Laugh  and  applaud  in  right  place   79 

Legislature  found  it  necessary  to  interfere    112 

Lying   165 

Learning  and  politeness   174 

Lind,  Jenny   215 

Lytton,  Bulwer  ("Owen  Meredith")........   216 


270 


INDEX. 


n 

Page 

Merchant   22 

Marlborough  before  the  battle  of  Blenheim   31 

Militia,  New  York  State,  etc   35 

Marcy,  late  Mr   37 

Marshals,  U.  S.,  wore  a  badge   59 

Mourning  worn  for  relatives,  length  of  time   68 

Marks  the  untaught  savage  of   107 

Moorish  women  of  Barbary   124 

Medean  dress,  a  loose,  flowing  robe   124 

Macaroni,  or  highly  dressfd  beau  of   138 

Manners,  advantage  of   1(58 

Moral  character     175 


INDEX. 


271 


I 

Page 


Napoleon  I.,  restored,  etc   31 

Navies  of  England  and  France   33 

Noailles  as  chief  de  la  mode   40 

Never  offer  your  hand  to   74 

Never  become  a  lecturer  in  polite  social  circles   75 

Napoleon  I. — England  a  nation  of  shopkeepers   100 

Neck,   and  sometimes  wrists,  also  ankles   122 

Nash  was  a  shrewd  and  inveterate  censor  of   133 

No  one  contemptible   169 

Necessary  accomplishments   176 

Now  that  I  have  got  a  pig  and  a  cow   188 


Out-door  relief  office  of  Third  Avenue 


186 


272 


INDEX. 


Page 

Petersham,  Lord   29 

Police,  New  York  ,   35 

Park,  Central,  New  York   46 

Park,  Hyde,  England   46 

Polite  as  a  Frenchman   71 

Pope  beautifully  expresses   95 

Pen  more  powerful  than  the  sword   101 

Persians,  ancient,  was   124 

Pericles  from  the  time  of   125 

Peruke,  of  French  origin,  had   129 

Politicians  and  Fourth-of-July  stump  orators   181 

Political. — New  honest  party     184 

Perry,  Commodore,  M.  C  209,  210 


INDEX.  273 

I 

Page 

Queen  Elizabeth,  the  reign  of   27 

Queen   Elizabeth   109 

Queen  Elizabeth,  the  reign  of   55 

f 

Richelieu   25 

Raleigh,  Walter,  and  others   25 

Regulation  and  dress  of  the  U.  S.  Army  and  Navy   32 

Richard  III.  easily  concealed   40 

Romans  made  their  garments  chiefly   126 

Recherches  sur  les  costumes   129 

Reminiscences  from  1831  to  1851     138 

Railroads  and  fraudulent  stock  speculators   187- 


274 


INDEX. 


[  ...  PAGE 

SCULPTUKE   24 

Smith  is  a  good  fellow  when  you  know  him   26 

Secretaries  of  legation  and  foreign  consuls   37 

Scott,  General,  to  fit  and  suit  his  form   39 

Supreme  Court,  Judges  of  U.  S   58 

Sheriff,  New  York,  wore  a  sword  and  cockade   59 

Shaftesbury  once  wrote   70 

Shears   101 

Supplement  Series   105 

Sultan  Mahmoud  ordered   Ill 

Smock-frocks,  the  Norman  cavaliers  took  from   117 

.Such  is  the  intimate  relation  between  the  body  and  the  mind,  158 


INDEX.  275 


I 

Page 

Taste  is,  in  fact,  like  good  music   19 

The  tailor  and  the  dress  maker   22 

The  great  Christian  maxim,  "Do  unto  others"   93 

Turks  would  not  allow   110 

The  bath  was  the  first  fashionable  resort  in  the   132 

The  formalities  received  a  severe  blow  at  the  French  Revolution,  135 

The  well-bred  man  feels  .  165 

Temper   172 

Townsend,  Hon.  E.  D,  (Adjutant  General)    226 


276 


INDEX. 


Page 

Uniform  continued  through  the  reign  of  James,  William,  and 

Ann   31 

Uniform  does  not  make  the  soldier     58 


I 

Virtue  is  often  found  in  the  wardrobe   22 

Verdingles  debate  in  Parliament   110 

Virginia  tobacco — Sir  Walter  Raleigh   118 

Vulgar  scoffers   167 


3 


INDEX.  277 

I 

Page 

Washington,  General,  was  celebrated   30 

Wellington,  Duke  of,  in  1871   33 

Wales,  Prince  of   41 

Wine,  do  not  press  upon  :   77 

Who  delight  in  false  weights  and  measures   94 

When  he  first  undertook  the  government  of  Bath  131 

Wellington  boots   137 

White  the  color  of  the  day   145 

Woman   169 

Washington,  George,  and  the  early  revolutionary  Fathers   183 

When  you  are  sure  you  are  right,  go  ahead,  etc   188 

Webster,  Daniel  199,  200,  202 

Webster,  Hon.  Sidney   206,  207 

When  in  Rome  do  as  Rome  does   185 

Ward's  Island,  etc   186 

i 

Young  America  too  often   191 


/ 


